Anyone ever use perka building frames?
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NM_Mike
Member
Kevin,
I recently purchased some of their frames. They are not going to be delivered until the end of March (my schedule, not theirs). Do you have any specific questions that I can take a stab at?
Mike
I recently purchased some of their frames. They are not going to be delivered until the end of March (my schedule, not theirs). Do you have any specific questions that I can take a stab at?
Mike
NM_Mike
Member
Kevin,
Like I said, I haven't assembled the frames as of yet, but I will share with you why I went with Perka versus a standard metal building and other Perka look-a-likes.
Perka frames are metal web based frames that bolt together. Perka has a dozenish different frame designs that you can mix and match between. Perka can easily custom make frames for your design. I had them design a cantilevered 14' overhang for me.
I like Perka's insulation when compared to the bat fiberglass that everyone else uses.
I like that Perka uses wood for the girts and purlins. I will be finishing out the inside of my structure. This approach lets me attach to the girts that are already there. The use of wood for the purlins and girts does make the span between frames less when compared to a standard building.
hope this helps,
Mike
Like I said, I haven't assembled the frames as of yet, but I will share with you why I went with Perka versus a standard metal building and other Perka look-a-likes.
Perka frames are metal web based frames that bolt together. Perka has a dozenish different frame designs that you can mix and match between. Perka can easily custom make frames for your design. I had them design a cantilevered 14' overhang for me.
I like Perka's insulation when compared to the bat fiberglass that everyone else uses.
I like that Perka uses wood for the girts and purlins. I will be finishing out the inside of my structure. This approach lets me attach to the girts that are already there. The use of wood for the purlins and girts does make the span between frames less when compared to a standard building.
hope this helps,
Mike
higgy
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They look like a great system. I will be expanding the shop/office area this summer. I will look at these with intrest. The insulation appears to be goos as well.
In the other open span shops that I have built the batt insulation has been less than satisfactory over time.
In the other open span shops that I have built the batt insulation has been less than satisfactory over time.
Ender
Member
Mike, can you provide a little more information.
How big is your building.
What was the cost (if you can tell us)
How much was shipping.
Will you be doing the building?
I am looking to put something up to store my TC-30 and other stuff
Ender
How big is your building.
What was the cost (if you can tell us)
How much was shipping.
Will you be doing the building?
I am looking to put something up to store my TC-30 and other stuff
Ender
fishman
Veteran Member
That system looks really cool. I too am interested in any details you could provide NM Mike. Also, are you attaching the frames to piers or to a concrete pad?
Thanks for the reply Mike, As with everythig I start to do this project has snowballed. I bought some home design software over the weekend and I'm in the process of trying several different ideas on the computer. I have talked with perka and I am still very interested in their product and think that will be the way I go, probably with the 6000 series
NM_Mike
Member
Sorry it's taken me awhile to get back with you all, but I have been out of town for the last week.
Ender - My building it 25x60 with a 14 foot cantilevered overhang on one side. This makes the overall profile 39x60. I plan on parking my 38ft fifth wheel and my 16ft utility trailer under the overhang. The 25x60 part will be split between a workshop and a garage for my TC33D and her friends (aka attachments). Sorry I cannot divulge the cost as I got "end of year" discounts on top of other discounts. See your local rep to haggle your own price. I will be building the building myself with the help of some friends.
Fishman - I will be erecting the building on a monolithically pored slab for the 25x60 part. The 14x60 overhang will be over gravel.
Kevin - my building is a model 7000 (3/12 pitch) with a 14ft custom cantilevered overhang (also 3/12 pitch). I like that fact that you can mix and match different frame types to get what you want. I went with the overhang because the trailers don't have to be under full cover and can easily live on gravel. Concrete in my neck of the woods is going for 80 cubic yrd so minimizing my concrete pad was important.
later,
Mike
Ender - My building it 25x60 with a 14 foot cantilevered overhang on one side. This makes the overall profile 39x60. I plan on parking my 38ft fifth wheel and my 16ft utility trailer under the overhang. The 25x60 part will be split between a workshop and a garage for my TC33D and her friends (aka attachments). Sorry I cannot divulge the cost as I got "end of year" discounts on top of other discounts. See your local rep to haggle your own price. I will be building the building myself with the help of some friends.
Fishman - I will be erecting the building on a monolithically pored slab for the 25x60 part. The 14x60 overhang will be over gravel.
Kevin - my building is a model 7000 (3/12 pitch) with a 14ft custom cantilevered overhang (also 3/12 pitch). I like that fact that you can mix and match different frame types to get what you want. I went with the overhang because the trailers don't have to be under full cover and can easily live on gravel. Concrete in my neck of the woods is going for 80 cubic yrd so minimizing my concrete pad was important.
later,
Mike
NM_Mike
Member
Kevin,
Your model 5000 really doesn't have 10/12 pitch does it? I didn't know that Perka went that high. I explored going 5/12 pitch.
When are you taking delivery. Mine are to be delivered at the end of March (my schedule). I had the foundation engineered (village requirements). The posts sit on a 3x3 pad. What kind of foundation are you going to use.
Did you purchase Perka's insulation package. A little stiff on the price, but I feel that it is one of the best on the market for a barn/workshop. I will be using the insulation that has the vinyl laminated on the inside face and this will be my finished wall.
Take lots of erection pictures so we can learn from each other.
later,
Mike
Your model 5000 really doesn't have 10/12 pitch does it? I didn't know that Perka went that high. I explored going 5/12 pitch.
When are you taking delivery. Mine are to be delivered at the end of March (my schedule). I had the foundation engineered (village requirements). The posts sit on a 3x3 pad. What kind of foundation are you going to use.
Did you purchase Perka's insulation package. A little stiff on the price, but I feel that it is one of the best on the market for a barn/workshop. I will be using the insulation that has the vinyl laminated on the inside face and this will be my finished wall.
Take lots of erection pictures so we can learn from each other.
later,
Mike
<font color="blue"> Your model 5000 really doesn't have 10/12 pitch does it? </font>
They are a custom pitch, Martial at Perka says no problem they will do anything.
<font color="blue"> When are you taking delivery. </font>
In about a month but I'm not building till June or so. I will have to figure out the foundation, it will probably be on 42" deep piers.
<font color="blue"> Did you purchase Perka's insulation package. </font>
No, If I insulate in the future I can buy a very similar product about an hour from my house.
pictures will be a given.
They are a custom pitch, Martial at Perka says no problem they will do anything.
<font color="blue"> When are you taking delivery. </font>
In about a month but I'm not building till June or so. I will have to figure out the foundation, it will probably be on 42" deep piers.
<font color="blue"> Did you purchase Perka's insulation package. </font>
No, If I insulate in the future I can buy a very similar product about an hour from my house.
pictures will be a given.
NM_Mike
Member
Kevin,
I also find Perka easy to deal with.
My sidewalls are also using the 8" I-beam. I am trying to figure out what to use for my girts. I want to install the insulation on the inside of the girt which says I need to have the girt flush with the inside of the I-beam. I also need to have the girt flush with the outside of the I-beam for the metal siding.
The Perka guys have suggested to install 2 2x4, one flush with the outside, and one flush with the inside of the I-beam. Although this is a solution to my problem, I am still looking for alternatives that might be lower in cost. I am investigating 8" wood I-beams. Any other ideas?
Mike
I also find Perka easy to deal with.
My sidewalls are also using the 8" I-beam. I am trying to figure out what to use for my girts. I want to install the insulation on the inside of the girt which says I need to have the girt flush with the inside of the I-beam. I also need to have the girt flush with the outside of the I-beam for the metal siding.
The Perka guys have suggested to install 2 2x4, one flush with the outside, and one flush with the inside of the I-beam. Although this is a solution to my problem, I am still looking for alternatives that might be lower in cost. I am investigating 8" wood I-beams. Any other ideas?
Mike
texbaylea
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Kevin
I built a 48' x 60' x 14' Miracle Steel building which look exactly like the Model 4000 Perka shows on their site. I elected to use 2x6 girts and purlins which has made it easy to frame in windows and in part of the building to have 8' ceilings with a storage floor above. I rented a boom truck to erect the frames which we did over a long weekend. It makes a good shop/office building.
Vern
I built a 48' x 60' x 14' Miracle Steel building which look exactly like the Model 4000 Perka shows on their site. I elected to use 2x6 girts and purlins which has made it easy to frame in windows and in part of the building to have 8' ceilings with a storage floor above. I rented a boom truck to erect the frames which we did over a long weekend. It makes a good shop/office building.
Vern
NM_Mike
Member
Kevin,
Since the Ibeam is 8", are you talking about ripping a 2x4 and toenailing it onto the edge of the 2x6 girt? This approach would limit horizontal deflection, but I am worried about horizontal deflection. Maybe I am not seeing something, why don't you like the double 2x4 girts. I even considered putting the insulation between the metal skin and a 2x6 girt and paneling the internal wall, but this is more expensive than the double 2x4 idea.
I plan on cutting scrap lumber and nailing them between the girts, thus helping with the vertical deflection.
interesting conversation...keep it coming.
Mike
Since the Ibeam is 8", are you talking about ripping a 2x4 and toenailing it onto the edge of the 2x6 girt? This approach would limit horizontal deflection, but I am worried about horizontal deflection. Maybe I am not seeing something, why don't you like the double 2x4 girts. I even considered putting the insulation between the metal skin and a 2x6 girt and paneling the internal wall, but this is more expensive than the double 2x4 idea.
I plan on cutting scrap lumber and nailing them between the girts, thus helping with the vertical deflection.
interesting conversation...keep it coming.
Mike
texbaylea
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re: vertical deflection. Vertical deflection is only going to be a problem until you get the steel sheeting on. My frames are spaced at 15' so I cut temporary spacers to put in vertically, 1 or 2 in each interval between frames. Knocked them all out fter putting the sheeting on.
