Anybody dig into the cable-actuated joystick/loader valve on a NX series tractor?

[Threepoint]

Eric, good update for those of us sharing your frustration vicariously! The mystery gets curiouser and curiouser. But if anyone is able to solve it without a proprietary scan tool, it's you.

Some more thoughts, for what they're worth. You say you swapped the 70A fuses. Do you mean the two 70A relays on the radiator support. If so, did you also try swapping the two 30/20A relays (blue in my photo)? The blue one, second relay from the right, is my starter relay according to the manual.


Also, you say you haven't checked power and ground sides of the brake switch to look for the potential brake fault mentioned from rubbing wires. (I think a reference to my 2016 post Tip for NX-Series Owners: Mysterious starting problem solved) Actually I don't think even that would rule out the cause I described - chafed wires at one of the brake lights. My brake pedal switch was working fine even with the chafed wire short circuit and blown fuse, because it was turning the brake dash light indicator on and off normally when the pedal was operated! But in your case, you say you've already checked all the fuses and they were fine. (In the fuse box to the left of the seat, between the B and C pillars?). So that pretty much rules out my chafed-wire cause!

Your newest theory on ice build up sounds very promising. Here's to an early spring warm up so you can follow up on it!

An unrelated question: I'm curious about the loader lock that you mentioned for your FEL lift cylinder. I can't see it in the photo you posted. Would like to know more. I've just been using a 14" or so section of 3" angle iron over the cylinder rod, but I've yet to add something to it to be sure it stays in place more securely.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

An unrelated question: I'm curious about the loader lock that you mentioned for your FEL lift cylinder. I can't see it in the photo you posted. Would like to know more. I've just been using a 14" or so section of 3" angle iron over the cylinder rod, but I've yet to add something to it to be sure it stays in place more securely.

I just went out to take photos of my homemade loader lock that is in my tractor cab, but since it is -18°F outside, both doors are frozen shut and I don't want to break anything forcing them open. So here are some photos I took when I first made my loader lock. It is a rectangle tube, roughly 1-1/5" x 3" with one side cut off-center down the middle allowing it to be slipped in over the ram, and held in place by the lower loader gussets. The last photo best shows how the loader lock rests when it is in use locking the loader up.

 

[Threepoint]

Thanks for the pics. Your loader lock design looks quite secure. Much more so than the simple 3" angle iron I've been using. How did you make the lengthwise cuts? They look clean and straight.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Thanks for the pics. Your loader lock design looks quite secure. Much more so than the simple 3" angle iron I've been using. How did you make the lengthwise cuts? They look clean and straight.

I used my plasma cutter.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

On day three of not winter weather I fixed one of my own quick disconnect fittings for my loader’s third function, as well as fixed the horn and headlights. I didn’t feel like laying down in the grease chunks that I blew off my machine when I hot pressure washed it yesterday so I haven’t addressed the no start unless I key on and jumper the starter.

Looks like the right rear lift cylinder is leaking as is the right boom cylinder as is the flare fitting on the right hand side that runs forward to the hydraulic oil cooler. The flare fitting has leaked since day one and tightening isn’t helping anymore so I’m going to try one of those copper flare mush-washer thingies since the flare connects two OEM hardlines.

The really big deal was a friend and I loved my toolbox off the wall to explore and find what kinds of things fell behind it after six years. With tools stacked up like cannonballs, that thing is stupid heavy.

 

[PMJG207]

We have used the ptfe “flaretite” or “fare seal” stuff at work with good success on 45 degree flare where the copper insert wasn’t soft enough and that was up to 850psi. I can’t remember if the cooler is on the pressure side or return but it maybe a good option if the flare is pitted or wire drawn. You don’t like getting covered in old balls of grease?

 

[Threepoint]

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Sounds like a productive day after a long winter's nap!

Also, thanks for the rare pic of the inside of the Tinkerage. (Where magic has been known to happen!)

 

[MinnesotaEric]

We have used the ptfe “flaretite” or “fare seal” stuff at work with good success on 45 degree flare where the copper insert wasn’t soft enough and that was up to 850psi. I can’t remember if the cooler is on the pressure side or return but it maybe a good option if the flare is pitted or wire drawn. You don’t like getting covered in old balls of grease?

I have not ordered in the copper-flare, mushy thing, and since I've never tried one and don't believe this line is high pressure (else it be spraying oil out instead of dripping), could you link to the product you're using because after eight years of my tightening the flare fitting up over and over has likely chewed the flare's sealing surface up. Thanks!

Edit: Found them. No metric sizes. OD on my tubing is 0.600", so some weird metric size. I figure I'll try a 5/8" copper, mushy flare thingie first then escalate.The funny thing is none of the copper flare thingies make the distinction between 37° hydraulic JIC flares, and 45° refrigerant flares. Even so, I'm blundering forward!

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Sounds like a productive day after a long winter's nap!

Also, thanks for the rare pic of the inside of the Tinkerage. (Where magic has been known to happen!)

Yes, very productive. LOL

After last night's unexpected ride, today's project! Smile.

I did also do yard work since I had favorable winds.

 

[PMJG207]

Yea the copper should form to jic37 just as well as SAE 45. If you are still having leaks maybe some locktite 577 on the face… always been on the fence about using stuff like that can get “into the oil” but have seen it use on JIC fittings when we were waiting on parts and no Issues.