Any woodworkers?

[Kenneth in Texas]

Been wanting a small wood working shop for 40 years so finally put one in. Currently just make small items while I learn the in/outs of all the machines.

What I need an experience woodworker to tell me is about Polyurathane OR a finish coat that provides a similar protection and the finish of poly. Right now I stain a piece of wood, let it dry then do a couple coats of poly. Is there a simpler way to achieve color and protection in one coat and not multiple ones? What exactly is varnish? Could it be a one coat process? Does it come in colors? How about poly, does it come in colors or tints? Sorry to be dumb on the finish coat subject but thats what im tackling this month :dance1:

 

[spitter]

nothing protects well in 1 coat . You didn't say in door or out doors . Everything has to be lightly sanded between coats except laquer it can be built up only need 1 hour drying time between coats.Your best bet is to read up on prouducts and teckniques in wood workers forum .Its a endless subject lots of varibales.:drink:

 

[dragoneggs]

You are getting into a difficult subject to advise. Lots depend on the wood you are finishing, the look you are after and more. Beautiful finishes don't come with one coat. Stains are one thing, poly coats, sanding, multiple coats, sanding, and more sanding finer, bla, bla, bla. Really depends on the 'quality' of finish you are after but don't expect it to be a quick one coat application if you are looking for a furniture quality finish. Maybe you can describe the wood material and 'finish' you looking for? Sorry but there isn't a quick answer to your question.

 

[Kenneth in Texas]

Sorry not to be more specific. Yes I sand between coats of the poly, usually with something in the neighborhood of 600 grit paper. Im not looking for a furniture quality finish, just a decent reasonable smooth finish. Just didnt know if there was something that you could brush on one coat and be done. All my items are indoor only.

 

[Gunny]

I've never been able to get a real smooth coat when brushing poly, too thick leaves brush marks, too thin leaves run and thin spots. For anything approaching "furniture" quality, once I get the thing sanded down real good and stained, I spray the finish on, always at least two coats, most of the time I do three coats.

Most of the time I use one of the cheap HF HVLP sprayers

And you'll need a super clean place to spray it, I use a home made spray booth. If there's only one speck of dust within 200 feet of a project, it will land right in the middle of what you're coating.

 

[Shaneard]

I think one word sums up wood work & wood finishing.....patience....you have to have patience to wood work. I don't do a lot of wood work cause I don't have a lot of patience, lol.

 

[2LaneCruzer]

I use poly, but I like to put it on with a rag, so I thin it down and put on several coats. It's quick and easy for small items. I have made some things, like wall mounted key holders that I just want to get finished fast, where I just used clear Shellac. I also like Tung oil finish. Easy to work with, but takes a little longer to dry. Some things I want to look really nice, I actually use a gun stock finish. Pretty labor intensive, because it requires several repeated steps: wet sanding and drying, rub down with 0000 steel wool, and repeat about 4 times with a final thin coat of poly.

Check these folks out:

Workshop Addict - Woodworking, Metal Fabrication, DIY & Home Remodelling Forum

Great forum, lots of friendly and helpful members.

 

[Gem99ultra]

Been wanting a small wood working shop for 40 years so finally put one in. Currently just make small items while I learn the in/outs of all the machines.

What I need an experience woodworker to tell me is about Polyurathane OR a finish coat that provides a similar protection and the finish of poly. Right now I stain a piece of wood, let it dry then do a couple coats of poly. Is there a simpler way to achieve color and protection in one coat and not multiple ones? What exactly is varnish? Could it be a one coat process? Does it come in colors? How about poly, does it come in colors or tints? Sorry to be dumb on the finish coat subject but thats what im tackling this month :dance1:

Kenneth, like me, you've entered into a never-ending world of learning. It is totally addictive. I consider myself as a newbie, also with about 40 years involvement, but still enjoy learning new tips and tricks, in almost as vast area as learning about tractors. But back to your question, from what I've learned...

Poly urethane needs at least 3 coats. What I've started doing is applying the first two coats with hand rubbed cloth, and the final coat gently with a good quality hair bristle brush. I don't have the patience for a fourth coat. The first two thin coats will fill the voids, and like you I lightly sand with 600 grit paper... just enough to knock the shine off. I have however, gone as far a 10 coats for my pickup truck bed flooring. In short, more is better.

Poly urethane does not hold up well in outside environment. Spar urethane is needed for that. I've also tried tung oil and boiled linseed oil, also with not so good results. Both of those need to be applied liberally and allowed to soak in. Multiple coats are also needed as well as periodical re-applying.

I've always preferred the natural colors of wood. However, you certainly can try adding a small amount of tinted poly urethane to your supply of clear to achieve the shade that you're after. In fact, I've mixed boiled linseed oil, spar urethane and mineral spirits for a home concoction for a fast drying finish on a small piece. They're all very similar and get along well together. No problems after a year with that mix.

One trick that I've learned about the dust, and there's ALWAYS dust lingering in a wood shop even after a few hours of inactivity, is to cover my project with a food tent. Those are available just about everywhere for next to nothing cost. I buy mine from Amazon and consider them thow-aways. But they'll catch 95% of the dust. If you need 100%, simply toss a sheet of newspaper over the tent. oh... and the food tents also close out gnats and other bugs that are drawn to your work piece like a needle to a magnet.

 

[EddieWalker]

Like the others have said, it takes a couple coats. Two or three depending on the type of wood. The first coat acts like primer and soaks into the wood. Since the grain of the wood varies, the amount that soaks in varies, so it's always going to be different.

I think 600 grit is too fine for in between sanding. I use 220 and lightly sand by hand, then clean with a tack cloth.

I prefer using a 2 inch foam brush for clear coats. No brush marks with foam.

 

[wawajake]

My apologies to the original poster , but since we are on the topic, I make various cedar furniture for my family and ourselves, cedar swings, chairs tables etc. and also use cedar v joint siding on parts of my house (screened in porch) I learned to stay away from varnishes and the typical varathane products because after a few years they peel and then project requires labour intensive sanding down to bare wood to refinish it all. But thru the years I found a Varathane product called "Natural Oil Finish #66" that does not peel , instead it just fades away and you can recoat. I think I have used 4 gallons over past six years. Unfortunately with todays enviro laws the Varathane company (parent company is Rustoleum) had to discontinue the product, the only suggestion they had for me was to use exterior teak oil, has anyone else found a product for exterior clear finish that works well on cedar ?

 

[SJay]

After I put the stain on my project, I will put 1 coat of thinned shellac. I can then use a water base poly or an oil based poly. I usually apply 3-4 coats of oiled based with the last coat being thinned. Good luck - as someone else said - patience. Take your time, the items you make are going to be around for a long time, don't rush the finishing (been there and got the hat and t-shirt:laughing

 

[bigtiller]

I'm not to picky and a little impatient so I am satisfied with 3 coats of Watco Danish Oil and a good coat of Minwax wood paste wax. Everything gets rubbed on, no brushes needed. Also, here is a great magazine for woodworkers;

Three great finishes (that aren't polyurethane)

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

I'm a watco danish oil and or tung oil person.

 

[EddieWalker]

I prefer oil for outdoors projects. Just rub it on and your done.

 

[dragoneggs]

I'm not to picky and a little impatient so I am satisfied with 3 coats of Watco Danish Oil and a good coat of Minwax wood paste wax. Everything gets rubbed on, no brushes needed. Also, here is a great magazine for woodworkers;

Three great finishes (that aren't polyurethane)

Indeed a good magazine. I subscribe.

 

[teejk01]

I use MinWax stain/sealers for color. Then decision time...if the surface will not be subject to abuse then Johnson's paste wax. If it will be subject to abuse then MinWax water-based poly. The problem with poly is that white residue it leaves when knocked down...not a problem with paste wax. And when water based poly is required, I cheat! I give the stain the requisite time but I apply the poly in several coats allowing no more than 1 hour drying time between coats...AND I use steel wool ("bless me MinWax for I have sinned" according to your directions).

 

[PILOON]

Me too. a Minwax stain and Danish oil guy.

My favorite finish is Danish oil and I actually apply it with a sponge and don't even bother to remove sawdust as I simply wring the sponge.
I have Oil finished many small items with great results, usually 3 coats.
Have done entire room walls that were pine using the sponge technique where the main goal was to seal the wood.
Brushes always seem to leave streaks while oil and sponge does not.
I have done floors, walls and small items with Danish oil and simply said, swear by it.
(bonus= no brushes to clean or guns to clean, just toss the sponge)

Might add that Minwax danish oil can be ordered tinted (like walnut, oak,pine etc)

 

[Deere Dude]

I built a ton of cabinets for two houses because I am kind of cheap. What works for me is to stain with a Minwax stain, wait a day then use Polycrylic which is a water based covering.

I get in a hurry and am impatient but with a water-based sealer I can be done with the thing 4-5 hours after the stain is dry enough to varnish.

 

[Sonny580]

I have used poly. for indoor items, and it takes 3-6 coats with waiting/sanding between coats. The end look is,---well----10 feet deep!! LOL!!!---really like looking into super clear/deep water!

I make my own lumber, (all sizes and length's), from trees mostly small to med., (don't get many big logs), but I am equipped to handle any size or length!! Thanks; sonny580

 

[Budweiser John]

Impatient. The curse of every project.

I've been building and wood working my entire life and over time have learned a project is only half done when the tools are put away and it's time to apply a finish to your masterpiece. Granted, the scope of the work dictates the quality of finish required but I have seen countless examples of great carpentry/cabinet work that looked like c--p and some examples of pretty poor wood working skills that looked pretty darn good due to the hand of a skilled painter or wood finisher.

My finish choices. Sorry west coast guys but nitrocellulose lacquer is my choice for furniture and high end architural built ins. Easy to apply and fairly easy to touch up if necessary. Next in line is tongue oil and a great finish it is. Simply rag it on, sand it in, repete two or more times and you'll end up with a beautiful smooth finish a fly would need FAA clearance to land on. A great finish natural (unstained) wood
As far as I'm concerned, polyurethane is best left on the shelf at Home Desperate.


B John