Allmand TLB 25K (not hydraulics)

[River Valley Landscaping]

Thanks for the info! Have you messed with adjusting the pedal at all? I recently loosened the locknut on the long threaded rod that connects down to the pump and gave the rod a few turns. I felt like I wasn’t getting the full throw of the foward reverse pedal even though the pedal itself was bottoming out in both directions on the foot rest. I have a replacement motor on my tractor so the neutral switch wasn’t connected when I bought it. Recently I took out the mechanism completely if you need one it’s yours. When cranking the tractor have you tried depressing the pedal for foward or reverse a little? My tractor won’t really start if the pedal isn’t in neutral anyway because it causes the pump to have to work and it is to much strain for the little starter. It will try but a quick jiggle on the pedal usually does it

 

[n1iwv]

No, I haven't touched any adjustments on the pedal /rod at all. The hydraulic shop took the pump apart to do an inspection and test. I don't know if any of the adjustments changed.My plan is to engage the dump valve bypass on the pump. That allows the tractor to be towed so no fluid to drive motor. Then use the auxiliary pump to raise the tractor off its rear wheels. Then disengage the bypass with rear end in the air. Then, I can figure out what's going on. Thanks for the offer, but I'm good with the neutral switch.

 

[River Valley Landscaping]

When trying to engage the pedal I noticed the cam follower was loose on mine. So I tightened #32 I believe it was. It’s the lone nut that holds the whole assembly to the shaft coming out of the pump. I also might take a dremel to the follower plate #37 because mine was worn to the point it made an extra grove and wasn’t rolling smooth.

 

[River Valley Landscaping]

When trying to engage the pedal I noticed the cam follower was loose on mine. So I tightened #32 I believe it was. It’s the lone nut that holds the whole assembly to the shaft coming out of the pump. I also might take a dremel to the follower plate because mine was worn to the point it wasn’t rolling smooth

No, I haven't touched any adjustments on the pedal /rod at all. The hydraulic shop took the pump apart to do an inspection and test. I don't know if any of the adjustments changed.My plan is to engage the dump valve bypass on the pump. That allows the tractor to be towed so no fluid to drive motor. Then use the auxiliary pump to raise the tractor off its rear wheels. Then disengage the bypass with rear end in the air. Then, I can figure out what's going on. Thanks for the offer, but I'm good with the neutral switch.

#24 in the diagram is what I originally adjusted because reverse was barely engaging. Then worked my way towards the pump end of #24 and tightened a few things. I had a service bulletin in the paper copy of the manual that came with the tractor stating how these parts loosen up over time

 

[n1iwv]

Thanks for the info. I've looked at that info in the manual. I have a working theory. The Forward / Back pedal is not how it was when the tractor went down in Sept 2021. There's way more forward travel on the pedal than Reverse. It was pretty symmetrical before. Forward Pedal Travel = Reverse Pedal Travel. Now it's Forward = 4 X Reverse
I am thinking when I pulled the Eaton hydraulic pumps off the engine, I may have pulled the engine back an inch or so on the frame. I had to yank on that assemble to get the spines to free up.
A small shift like that explain the misalignment of the pedal linkage rod.
I've had problems with the 4 (3/8) inch bolts that hold the engine to the frame loosing up. I will look under the frame and see if it slid back.
The tractor is about 500 ft from my garage. I took today to get my Deer x300 out of winter hibernation with trailer and use it to transport tools, parts and beer to the crash site.
Next 60 degree day, I'll get back on it.

 

[River Valley Landscaping]

Moving the engine would definetly do it. The cam follower on mine was kicking out sideways at one point and it was doing the same thing as yours with forward/reverse speeds. Reverse it felt like it would get a bump of flow from the pump then kinda crawl and then another bump. I got my hydraulic motor off today and the splines on the shaft of it look fine…. That coupler though not so much. Maybe an 1/8th inch of grooves left on the end. I can not for the life of me get the 4 bolts 3/8” that hold the coupler/brake drum/differential loose. I’m about to get some heat on it and see what happens. For now I’m going to go ahead and order the piece you provided the info for so atleast it will be on its way.

 

[n1iwv]

Moving the engine would definetly do it. The cam follower on mine was kicking out sideways at one point and it was doing the same thing as yours with forward/reverse speeds. Reverse it felt like it would get a bump of flow from the pump then kinda crawl and then another bump. I got my hydraulic motor off today and the splines on the shaft of it look fine…. That coupler though not so much. Maybe an 1/8th inch of grooves left on the end. I can not for the life of me get the 4 bolts 3/8” that hold the coupler/brake drum/differential loose. I’m about to get some heat on it and see what happens. For now I’m going to go ahead and order the piece you provided the info for so atleast it will be on its way.

I used an cordless impact gun. I took the mounting plate for the hydro motor off. That give you a better shot at them. The brake band assembly can stay in place. I also found it easier to disconnect the the brake cable (down by the brake band)so I can get to the bolts that hold the motor mounting plate on. W hen I put it back together I used anti seize.
Got almost everything back together. The reverse creep was corrected by following the guide in the manual. Installed the battery tray and belly pan. I moved it closer to the garage today so I can finish it off. I have a temp gas tank ( 1 gallon) strapped to the rear fender. I plan on getting the rear axle seals replace. I had them done about 14 years ago and there leaking on the rear wheels. I use a shop in Manchester. The job requires a press. When that's done, I'll install the main gas tank. The thing with the 1 gallon tank, you really can see what a gas pig these Kohler Twin engines are.
Look like a 14 T spline count on that coupling. Same exact failure. I though about moving the hydro motor forward about 3/4 inch to catch the remaining splines in the coupler, but that's cheating.

 

[River Valley Landscaping]

I used an cordless impact gun. I took the mounting plate for the hydro motor off. That give you a better shot at them. The brake band assembly can stay in place. I also found it easier to disconnect the the brake cable (down by the brake band)so I can get to the bolts that hold the motor mounting plate on. W hen I put it back together I used anti seize.
Got almost everything back together. The reverse creep was corrected by following the guide in the manual. Installed the battery tray and belly pan. I moved it closer to the garage today so I can finish it off. I have a temp gas tank ( 1 gallon) strapped to the rear fender. I plan on getting the rear axle seals replace. I had them done about 14 years ago and there leaking on the rear wheels. I use a shop in Manchester. The job requires a press. When that's done, I'll install the main gas tank. The thing with the 1 gallon tank, you really can see what a gas pig these Kohler Twin engines are.
Look like a 14 T spline count on that coupling. Same exact failure. I though about moving the hydro motor forward about 3/4 inch to catch the remaining splines in the coupler, but that's cheating.

Nice! I did end up getting it off doing the same exact process. Kinda nice to have it all apart to clean it up a bit. Until the shaft coupler wore out the drive motor and differential were the only parts I haven’t done some sort of messing around with yet because they seemed good. I guess a little further inspection will be needed because I’ve never even had the rear wheels off the tractor or even checked the torque of the lug nuts. I did tighten the parking brake with the handle adjustment at one point. I have a replacement predator 22hp engine which is basically a Koehler clone. My gas tank is in front up between the engine and oil cooler/ nose piece. Usually 5 gallons will get me a full day of running the tractor which isn’t too bad considering the amount of dirt it moves in that time. Because my tank is up front I have an empty cavity in the tractor from the battery back to the backhoe. At some point I’d like to fab up a toolbox for chains and the backhoe thumb piece so everything stays with the tractor. I’m glad you got yours moving for now. It’s a struggle moving these tractors when the drive is out haha. I had a flatbed tow mine home for me. Do you happen to know the size in cubic inch of the drive motor? I’m looking around for a replacement just in case I put everything back together and the shaft got tweaked.

 

[n1iwv]

I wrote down the exact motor part number, but I can't find it now and I am unable to see it on the tractor.
The motor is a Ross ME-18 series. I believe that it is a 21 cu inch displacement.
You could always get the shaft replaced if the spines on the motor are messed up.
I've used TST Hydraulics in Merrimack, NH. The're good.
I've looked around for a replacement motor and really could not find an exact match. The problem is the 1.25 inch splined shaft. The motors that are a close match have a keyed shaft.

 

[n1iwv]

It's all back together. HJydro pedal is real touchy. The new coupler must be a lot tighter than my old one. This is going to take a little practice. Everything seem back to normal.