Air Compressors

[Scooby074]

My advice. GO BIG..... I dont think you could ever have too large of a air compressor.

You only have a couple tools listed today, but i can guarantee in the future youll have more. And youll likely try to sandblast!!! This will eat up air.

Your sander will likely eat up 10CFM CONTINUOUS. Thats the key. Its not intermittent use like a impact. If your going to sandblast, better count on at least 18CFM Continuous. So size accordingly.

Good idea avoiding the oil-less. Theyre too noisy (Ive had one).

Look for the SLOWEST RPM compressor you can find. It will be the quietest. Something like 600RPM is ideal.

And good trying to avoid the ChiCom. However, whats your budget? It may not be possible to get a made in US compressor. You have to watch these things, some will put a ChiCom compressor, on a cihcom tank, but assemble it in the states, and get to call it Made in USA.

220V is better.

As to brands, IR used to be good, Im not sure about the quality and where the new ones are made, but id imagine theyre still OK,

Quincy makes a high quality made in the US compressor.

Another great brand, and likely my next compressor, is Delvibis. I like their HDi line. Made and cast in canada, 600RPM, True 5 HP, 2 stage, 20CFM delivered. Price is around $2500CDN. If you have or can find a tank and motor, the head costs about $1000CDN. This is likely too much compressor for you but if your thinking about blasting or are serious about it, it might be worth a look.
Piston Compressors

Theres lots of opinions on compressors out there. So take everythng with a grain of salt. Another great site for garage related stuff, and compressors are a major topic of discussion is The Garage Journal Board - Powered by vBulletin

 

[Diamondpilot]

I am wonder why not a oil-less also? I have a 33 gallon Husky from Home Depot. Got it about 12 years ago and just this year the motor took a dump. Only paid $199 on sale. Got out the manual and called the phone number for parts and guess what? Its a CH.

Its a 110 volt unit that runs all the time, probably 5 hours a week on average and other than the $75 motor has given me zero issues. I leave it on all the time and have it plumbed though out my shop and house with 6 work stations. 3 in the pole barn then 2 in the house and 1 in the garage all via buried lines.

No complaints on the motor going out. I work in my shop about 20 hours a week and would guess the compressor runs 1/4 of the time.

Chris

 

[BHD]

If I read correctly I would buy a air compressor that was portable about a 12 gallon tank and can run a 15 amp breaker, (I prefer the oiled units over oiless, but beside noise, and both are noisy), there is not much reason to or advantage of the oiled over oiless IMO unless your getting into stationary, compressors,

there on a stationary unit I would go to a 230 volt a true 5hp motor and a two stage oiled compressor head,

but your talking two different animals if you have stationary you all most need/want a portable, for that tire that out of reach of the air hose, for up in the other building, or what ever,

there is no one perfect compressor, (I bought my small portable many years ago it was oil less, a Coleman name on it,
(nearly any small compressor is a throw away unit, as I doubt if I had problems with mine now I could get parts),

the small portable units will work for many things, my son and son in-law have used them until they nearly fall apart and some of them are the cheap Chinese junk units,
SIL works in construction and used his a lot, (small pancake oiless units),

I would probably buy a name brand unit, at lest if you would have any problems you may be able to get help or replacement parts to correct the problems,

in the shop for years until I got the stationary unit I would use an axillary tank for more reserver air, (I use a air powered tire changer, impact wrench's, and other air tools)

off the portable units, I used to small impacts, air drills, nailer's and staplers, dry wall texture guns, and the tire machine and other things (yes the volume of air was some times minimal for the job, but there is a line between portable and air, unless you step up to his type of portable air compressor, that is tractor powered,

 

[Scooby074]

I am wonder why not a oil-less also? I have a 33 gallon Husky from Home Depot. Got it about 12 years ago and just this year the motor took a dump. Only paid $199 on sale. Got out the manual and called the phone number for parts and guess what? Its a CH.

Its a 110 volt unit that runs all the time, probably 5 hours a week on average and other than the $75 motor has given me zero issues. I leave it on all the time and have it plumbed though out my shop and house with 6 work stations. 3 in the pole barn then 2 in the house and 1 in the garage all via buried lines.

No complaints on the motor going out. I work in my shop about 20 hours a week and would guess the compressor runs 1/4 of the time.

Chris

THe problems with Oiless ore : Noise, durability , air volume, and noise. Did i mention the noise?

I think the life you got out of yours was the exception to the rule.

My "5hp" oiless Campbell hausfield had all the above problems. It lasted me probably 2 years. Most of my use is autobody, which uses lots of air. The compressor had to run constantly to keep up with my sander. I ran low on air many times.

People really undersize their compressors, either from lack of knowledge or just being cheap.I learned i was both with my Campbell Hausfield.

My 7 year old oil filled does the exact same job with less noise and runs like a top. The only place it falls short is in blasting. Its a 18CFM which should be enough according to my nozzle chart, but im using all that and then some. Thats not the compressors fault, but it shows its durability as it runs continously.

Duty cycles on oil less compressors are way less than oil filled. With most of the better oilfilleds being continuous duty.Theres no way an oil less compressor can dissipate heat like an oilfilled compressor.

 

[Bird]

I am wonder why not a oil-less also? I have a 33 gallon Husky from Home Depot. Got it about 12 years ago and just this year the motor took a dump. Only paid $199 on sale. Got out the manual and called the phone number for parts and guess what? Its a CH.

Its a 110 volt unit that runs all the time, probably 5 hours a week on average and other than the $75 motor has given me zero issues. I leave it on all the time and have it plumbed though out my shop and house with 6 work stations. 3 in the pole barn then 2 in the house and 1 in the garage all via buried lines.

No complaints on the motor going out. I work in my shop about 20 hours a week and would guess the compressor runs 1/4 of the time.

Chris

Yep, if you only use it 5 hours a week, and don't run it continuously for much more than 10 minutes at a time, they're not too bad. Of course, as one air compressor tech told me, you can figure the lifespan of an oilless at one-tenth the lifespan of an oiled compressor. When I was a full time RVer, I carried a little 2 gallon DeVilbiss oilless in the RV. It would do for occasional use to air up a tire or blow the dust out of things. And I had no problems with it. But on the farm, a 30 gallon oilless Craftsman (made by DeVilbiss) wouldn't make 6 months between rebuilds, but I sometimes ran it 3 to 5 hours a day. And if you do that, you're wasting money on oilless compressors.

 

[Egon]

i am curious why the 220 volt recommendations. I have a 110 V and like the fact that I can run it off extension if I need to use it away from my 220 v supply.

On my 2-1/2 HP the 120 volt is right at max amperage for a 15 amp fuse when it starts up.

This summer I was using a needle scaler on my rusty trailer. My Campbell Hausefield was running continuously for up to eight hours in 35C temperatures The 2-1/2 HP did not have enough air capacity to properly run the scaler.

 

[blueriver]

I went 110v portable two tanks, runs my nailer, impact wrench and anything I put on it. I can also load it in my gator by myself, throw the generator in there as well and have air in every hay field I have ... well for that matter air anywhere I take that setup ...

 

[SPYDERLK]

On my 2-1/2 HP the 120 volt is right at max amperage for a 15 amp fuse when it starts up.

This summer I was using a needle scaler on my rusty trailer. My Campbell Hausefield was running continuously for up to eight hours in 35C temperatures The 2-1/2 HP did not have enough air capacity to properly run the scaler.

See... theres what Im talking about. I have a high efficiency 1-1/2 HP 120/240 V motor with a service factor of 1.3. This means the motor will safely produce 1.3 x 1.5 = 1.95 HP continuously. Nameplate current is 17.6/8.8 Amps for producing that power. 15 Amps at 120 is 2.4 HP input power. You can bet your not getting out more than youre putting in. These compressor manufacturers are playing games. If a true 2.5 horse it should draw 25 or so amps at 120V. Gotta watch those Mfg claims.
larry

 

[EddieWalker]

For a home shop compressor for basic tasks and tools, it's not that big of a deal what you buy. The mid range of price compressors are all fine for this and should last you several decades. Don't confuse a home air compressor with a commercial or professional use model. The requirements for those compressors are more specialized and as a result, you pay allot more for those specialites.

An example is that I just bought a new Intersal Rand portable air compressor. For me, as a contractor, I have to have something powerful enough to run a framing nail gun and everything down to a brad nailer. It also has to be portable and able to run off of my clients homes. Allot of those homes are older and a compressor rated at 15 amps will trip breakers on a cold day. I've been through a few brands before finding this one, which pulls 14.5 amps. That half amp is why I paid $100 more for a compressor that I could have found with the same amount of power, but draws 15 amps. For me, that was very important.

While looking at compressors, I tried two different DeWalts that say Emglo on them. Emglo used to be a top name in compressors, but that was when they were painted blue and didn't have the DeWalt name on them. Both of the ones that I bought failed on me in less then a day. I have a Emglo wheel barrow compressor that is twenty years old, and it's a very good compressor. It's too heavy to carry around, but in emergancies, I've loaded it up to get the job done. I also had two Hitachi air compressors. One lasted a day, the replacement lasted a year, but it kept tripping breakers in clients homes. Sometimes it took half an hour just to get it going, it would trip the home breaker or it's own time after time.

I've been using this Ingersal Rand for about a month now, and I'm very impressed with it. Easy to start, quick to build pressure, fairly quiet and no leaks. Sometimes it's worth a little extra to get a good tool.

Eddie

 

[whistlepig]

Size the compressor to run the impact wrench. Then go looking. Cast iron compressor may be preferable. 220 volt is also preferable. Many come with 120/220 motors.

Also consider what other uses could come up like painting, sandblasting, air tools and whether portability will be a factor.

This is the way I did it. Sized the compressor to the impact wrench. If I have a frozen 1" nut now I don't curse, hammer, and chisel on it any more. I nuke the darn thing off with the impact wrench. Stuff flying everywhere. It makes me feel so much better. But then again, I'm easy to please.