Advice would be appreciated

   / Advice would be appreciated #11  
This has been an interesting discussion. Redlevel mentions the damage the feral hogs do and it sounding "heartless" to kill them. We lived across the road from Navarro Mills Lake and there were enough feral hogs in the area that the Corps of Engineers hired an outfit out of Ft. Worth to thin them out. For 3 days in a row, two guys in a little bitty helicopter flew around at low altitude shooting all the hogs they could find with a 12 gauge shotgun. But first they sent a letter to most folks in the area to invite them to a meeting and asked how many of them would want, or at least not object, to have the helicopter get over their land, as well as the Corps land, and kill hogs there, also. I don't think anyone objected. I heard that they killed 120 and most folks in the area said that wouldn't even make a dent in the population.

A great deal of my hay work was on Corps land around the lake. My rancher buddy leased 1100 acres of it for 4 years. Incidentally, this past week was kind of sad because he died of cancer last Saturday; was 74 years old. But he and I had a lot of fun together for a few years.

Russ, I'll agree with the idea of having more than one tractor, so I'd say keep the old tractor you have now and then buy a new (or just another old, larger) one. My buddy only had a little over 80 acres of his own, but also used 50+ adjoining acres belonging to a former brother-in-law, in addition to the leased land. When I first met him, his wife had talked him into getting rid of his haying equipment a couple of years earlier (square baler) because of some health problems, particularly with his knees. He'd had knee replacement surgery and had been down for nearly a year with a massive infection. But he still had his Farmall Super H (gas) and a Farmall Super M (diesel). They were old, but they ran.

So, when he got the lease on the Corps land, he bought a 30 year old 85 hp Oliver diesel tractor with 5k hours on the clock, and a new Gehl hay mower/conditioner and a new Gehl round baler. We both did hay cutting, but that Gehl baler had the digital controls and he didn't want to spend much time learning about it so he raked with one of the old Farmalls and I baled with that Gehl. (One day the Farmall he was using broke down, so he spent the day raking with my little B7100. I told him that little tractor would beat him to death on that rough ground and I'd rake and let him bale, but he declined, so I kept baling. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif) That Gehl made bales 5' wide and could be set, in 6" increments, to make bales from 3' to 6' diameter. Now I've seen someone recommend buying the biggest bales you can get. Now that's OK if you can handle them. We learned very quickly that 6' bales are heavy so we made 5' x 5' bales. However, we did custom baling for other people so we made some 6' bales if that's what the customer wanted; not many did.

Remember, we didn't have a front end loader; originally moved bales with a "carry-all' on the 3-point that he had made himself from pretty heavy pipe so it was plenty strong. He later bought a Hay King spear to use on the 3-point; much better because you could raise and lower the 3-point and tilt the spear up or down hydraulically. I also moved a lot of bales with that carry-all on the back of another neighbor's 50 hp White tractor; really nice old tractor.

We also had another neighbor who ran a pretty good herd of Angus, but his main business was hay. He had 3 air-conditioned John Deeres, used both a Hay King spear on the back, and a bale spear on the front end loader. And he made nothing but 4' x 5' bales with wrap instead of twine; primarily because he had his own flat bed 18-wheeler to deliver hay (34 bales per load) and didn't want it hanging out over the sides.

Ahh, I'm rambling, so I'll quit. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
   / Advice would be appreciated
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Bird: I like that kind of rambling. Learned a lot, believe it or not. I'm so sorry about your buddy. I'm not sure how big our round bales we have made and/or delivered are but they are pretty big and I know my stepdad hauled them around on a spear on the back of the J.D. 1020. (I think I said I am having that repaired.)

So two tractors--Hmmm. Here's another question for the house. When I updated my profile a little while ago I made a list for myself of what I need to do with machinery:

1. Clear brush down fence lines (way way thick) By the way, I had estimated 7 miles earlier--just "measured" it with aerial photographs to scale and it came out to: 5 1/2 miles perimber fence and 2 miles of cross fence--pretty good guess! 2. Clear mesquite in open fields. 3. Clear other brush and trees to navigate around land. 4. Repair hog holes smooth enough for haying equipment to come in. 5. Disk for grass sprigging and planting grazing oats. 6. Use an auger for fence posts.

So: I got to thinking that if I do keep the John Deere (more on that later) since I have so much brush clearing on the approximately 240 acres that isn't cleared and even on the fields that are-- maybe it would be better for the second tractor to be a Bobcat. My thinking is this: I have watched a buddy with a tree shear and grapple and boy, does that thing clear brush. It has a FEL (I know--not as big as one on 50-90 HP Kubota) but it could serve a lot of the FEL functions. Also, I would still have the JD to disk and pull the box blade.

Now I realize that on an Ag tractor board that may be heresy, and if so, I apologize to everybody and I admit I have not done a search for info on skid steers on these boards yet, but I would definitely like to hear why that would or would not be the way to go. How is this for an answer to myself: The Bobcat would only be 46 or 56 HP and would cost the same as say, a 90 HP 4WD Kubota. ???

Next question: I may have mentioned that everybody keeps telling me how worthless it is having and putting money into a 35 year old gas tractor with only 40 HP. I am hearing from multiple sources it is not worth having because today's gas will gum up the carbs, especially when stored in cold weather. A Kubota dealer (who is a friend) even made the statement: "50 HP in a gas tractor is not as much power as 50 HP in a diesel." Now that sounds just plain wrong. I can understand the thinking behind a 4WD having more effective "power" than a 2WD at the same HP rating. The JD has (I think) 13.5X28 rear tires, so I feel like I ought to be able disk or shred 20 acre field fairly quickly.

My main quesion is: Should I buy into the tractor's being worthless, or would it be worth putting say, a couple of grand into if necessary to make it tight and right, start it once a month and use gas preservative???
Thanks to all,

Russ
 
   / Advice would be appreciated #13  
Should you ever decide for sure that your 1020 Deere is "worthless", let me know. I'll sure be willing to take it off your hands! They sell for a nice chunk of change. That sure doesn't sound "worthless" to me.

They're good little tractors. It will handle a 5 or 6 foot bush hog just fine. They aren't as modern as some tractors, but they will do just about anything that any other 40 HP 2WD will do.

Should you decide to get a newer/bigger tractor, the 1020 would be a perfect "2nd tractor". (I'd say it's still a bit small to serve as a primary tractor on the amount of ground you have)

As far as the bobcat goes, I'm not getting into that dogfight. I've rented one on several occasions. There's things they'll do that a tractor won't. There's things a tractor'll do that a BOBCAT won't. I feel that a tractor is more versitile over-all. (JMHO)

But one thing for sure, I'd keep that 1020 Deere. I've got a gas tractor that's about the same age. No problems with gas gumming up the carb. I'm also a strong believer in OLD gas tractors being easier to deal with than OLD diesels when they start getting worn out. ----EASIER TO START----- And if you can't get one started, it doesn't matter how good (or bad) it runs.

Again, JMHO.
 
   / Advice would be appreciated #14  
Things to consider using a Bobcat, aka Skid Steer.

*slower travel speeds moving around on 360 acres may require a truck-trailer to move it. Most skid steers travel about 7 MPH. AG tractors will be double, or even triple, that speed.

* implements-attachments on average cost more than tractor implements. I priced a GP bucket with toothbar last week for a NH LS-180 skid steer, it was over a $1,000. A 72 inch GP bucket for a tractor loader will be half that price.

* A 40 to 50 HP machine is considered medium to small sized. You will only be able to use a 60 inch wide bucket. Again with 360 acres it may take forever to get work done.

* Loader lift capacity for a 46 HP Bobcat S-150 is only 1,500 lbs. Where a 65 to 75 HP AG tractor will be up around 2,500 to 3,000 lbs.

Not trying to "steer" you away from a "Skid Steer" (No pun intended) I operate one 2 to 3 days a week. They are great machines for working in close quarters, but with your wide open spaces you may want to re-consider.

Just my .02 cents worth.

Good luck !
 
   / Advice would be appreciated #15  
I agree with Farmwithjunk; I'd keep and use that old gas powered tractor and while the Bobcat is great for many things, I think the tractor is more versatile and would be of more use. About a year ago, I noticed a guy trying to clear some mesquite from a pasture here nearby with a Bobcat. Of course he only had a front end loader on it, but I was by there two days in a row and was thinking he had a job that would last all summer. Apparently he thought so, too, because the third day I was by there, he (or someone else) was doing the job with a dozer and did it in one day. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
   / Advice would be appreciated #16  
Any tractor that you already own and know the history of is worth keeping. Especially an older JD.

When the money becomes available, put a loader on it and keep the bush hog on the back. You will love having that combination around for small chores.

Ron
 
   / Advice would be appreciated
  • Thread Starter
#17  
To all: Thanks for the encouragement on the old J.D. I was hoping I would hear something like that, especially the possibility of putting a FEL on it. I know the specs say the hydraulics will put out 10 GPM and I know that some have had FEL installed after the fact--maybe I can get an older one.

GATC35: Appreciate the candid thoughts on the Bobcat--I've already had sticker shock looking at attachment prices, and was, of course, aware of the bucket limitations. I just kind of got addicted watching my buddy who manages about 1100 acres for a rich Yankee using that thing with a tree shear to lop off mature cedar (actually juniper) trees and carry them over to a burn pile like a mother holding her baby. (OK: bad analogy.)

RonR (or anyone else feel free to jump in): I looked at the requirements a few days ago on the Bushhog brand heavy duty 6 foot rotary (capable of cutting 4 inches thick) and I think it specified 11 GPM. Don't know much about hydraulics, so would that completely disqualify the J.D. if it has output of 10 GPM, make it marginal, just keep it from maximum performance, or what???

Also (Lord, how I hate to show my ignorance to this degree) does the bushog just run on 3 point hitch and PTO? And if so, does the 3PH and/or PTO detract from the hydraulic output to the FEL? Like I said, I'm a complete novice.

Russ
 
   / Advice would be appreciated #18  
You shou;d keep the JD for mowing corners and spots you can't put a batwing. You can put a loader on it, but it'll be slow without a front or rear (pto) pump. I be;ieve that model was closed center, so you'd need to pay attention to type control valve installed.
I'm not sure about the cutter and why it would need hydraulics at all unless it is semi mount or pull type, in which case it would be just a bit slow. You'd need remote outlets to operate it also.
Servis-Rhino makes the model I have in 3ph that will handle 4" brush and I can vouch for it's capacity.
I have both types and if it is a pull type you're looking at, you'll be dissapointed in always having to run tractor over large brush (thorns) , as they don't back over stuff well.
 
   / Advice would be appreciated #19  
<font color="blue"> "does the bushog just run on 3 point hitch and PTO? And if so, does the 3PH and/or PTO detract from the hydraulic output to the FEL? Like I said, I'm a complete novice."
</font>

Actually that is a good question. I don't know the factual answer, but the practical answer is you don't usually do FEL work with the mower running, so it doesn't matter. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I have a 50 hp Kubota (L5030) for 120 acres and I would recommend something bigger if you plan on doing a lot of mowing and need a batwing. My front end loader with a toothbar is a great tool for removing brush.

I have about 40 acres of mesquite. Mesquite has deep taproots you would be best to either get a dozer in to root plow or get a back hoe and spend about 15 minutes on each medium size mesquite (5").

I'm about 50 miles due east of Austin. Nice to have a neighbor aboard. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
   / Advice would be appreciated #20  
I wouldn't worry a bit on a tractor that is 30-40 years old that is gas and still runs strong. The 135 at our farm is a 67 model and gets used quite a bit to do anythinf from mowing to dragging a box blade to discing a field and seeding clover.
I know of several larger hay/cattle farms that are still running D-series Allis Chalmers and 180 and 190 AC's and 4020 John Deeres on a daily basis during hay harest season.
 

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