Adding loader hydraulics to my YM1110D

[gjbirky]

I am trying to add loader hydraulics to my YM1110D - actually for a hydraulic lift and angle front blade (JD 54"). It seems I have a choice of two valves, and was wondering if anyone had any experience with either.

Cross SS series OC 7 gpm $169.99
or
Brand Hydraulics LV22 series $189.99

Has anybody used either of these valves? The Cross valve has power beyond, but I don't think I want to try to hook it up with a separate return. I was just planning to break into the 10mm pressure line from the pump, go through the valve, and then back to the pressure line - which goes on to the 3pt.

Obviously, the Cross valve is $20 less, so I'd prefer to use it. Can I just plug the power beyond port, and plumb the out port back to the pressure line to the 3pt?

 

[kennyd]

Welcome to TBN

Either valve you linked to will work great for what you want...and the Surplus Center sells the Brand valve also (but for $10 more)

 

[KubotaSam]

If you are going to cut into the pressure line from the pump to the 3 PH then you need the valve with the power beyond. Other than that you need to split the line with a priority valve. You can not just hook hydraulic systems from one to another in series.

 

[kennyd]

You can not just hook hydraulic systems from one to another in series

Well...you can do it that way, but it is not the "preferred" method.

 

[KubotaSam]

Many years ago I connected a valve for a home-made hydraulic winch on my Terratrac (case 310) bulldozer. I connected it in series. When I would move the lever to run the winch the blade valve would move on its own and the blade would raise without touching the valve. The valve on the blade was not a power beyond valve and the pressure on the output side of the valve (when I tried to run the hydraulic) winch would cause the valve for the blade to move on its own.

 

[Yandaddy1110]

I have considered adding rear hydraulics to my 1110d recently. After looking in the Surplus Center and Northern catalogs I realized theirs hydraulic controls are 10-25gpm valves, my little 1110 hydraulic pump only produces maybe 4 gpm, those valve s are a bit overkill but would work. I have found that hydraulic valves from older garden tractors may be a better fit, either the one or two spool, depending on the use.I know many of these have no handles on them , but they most likely could be adapted to them. Salvage yards and ebay seem to offer a wide variety, and a whole lot cheaper.

 

[gjbirky]

If you are going to cut into the pressure line from the pump to the 3 PH then you need the valve with the power beyond. Other than that you need to split the line with a priority valve. You can not just hook hydraulic systems from one to another in series.

Was that an open center system? My understanding is that you can hook open center systems in series like this. I know the power beyond returning to the next system, and the out to the reservior, is the perferred configuration. However, that creates problems for me since there is no easy way to get the out returned to the reservoir.

I suppose I can use the valve with power beyond plugged and see how it works. The only other hydralics is the 3pt. If I have problems, then I'll have to change to the 3 line installation.

Has anyone done this on a Yanmar with the same type of hydraulic system? For example, the YM2210 and YM1510 both have the same hydraulic configuration. Certainly someone has installed a loader with a power beyond valve plumbed the way I suggested on a 1510 or 2210 and can let me know if the 3pt hydraulics worked properly.

 

[gjbirky]

I have considered adding rear hydraulics to my 1110d recently.

Wow, another YM110D owner. It is not one of the more popular models since it is so small. But man is it a tractor with heart! It is amazing what I can do with it. I'm glad to make your acquaintance morris.

 

[gjbirky]

Welcome to TBN

Thanks for the welcome - though I'm not really new. I just haven't been on the board for quite a while, and I couldn't remember the password to my old username (gbirky). And since my e-mail address changed, I couldn't get it from the system.

And thanks for the tip on the Brand valve at Surplus Center.

 

[cootbruce]

I too have an 1100D. Great tractor. I have a blade on the front that operates using the bypass under the seat and the three point control lever. No down pressure, just up for the blade.

I was considering making a loader for it, but I am afraid the front axles won't support the weight. And I understand the weak link in the 1100 was the front axle assemble.

 

[Yandaddy1110]

Wow, another YM110D owner. It is not one of the more popular models since it is so small. But man is it a tractor with heart! It is amazing what I can do with it. I'm glad to make your acquaintance morris.

Likewise Gjbirky, Your photos kinda inspired me to want a 1110, I wanted a "real" tractor that was smaller than my BX2200, the 1110d fit the bill. Came across it just on dumb luck, didnt hesitate to buy it. Say , Cord on this site has one, as does the guy I purchased mine from in Wi.

 

[MJPetersen]

Cord, who Morris mentioned, has a 1110D, but he has turbo charged it, added a Kwikway loader, and who knows what else. He has not been too active recently, but did post in January. He has a very nice looking tractor too. Look in his posts and see if you can find where he put his loader on. He was not so great about starting threads about his mods, but he usually attached himself to some others dealing with the same topic.

Mike

 

[Roonabeck]

Has anyone done this on a Yanmar with the same type of hydraulic system? For example, the YM2210 and YM1510 both have the same hydraulic configuration. Certainly someone has installed a loader with a power beyond valve plumbed the way I suggested on a 1510 or 2210 and can let me know if the 3pt hydraulics worked properly.

When I got my 1510, it had a koyker loader configured with power beyond with the return hose going into the tranny fill cap. I made the changes to the loader valve that koyker said would configure it as open center instead of power beyond (removing a mystery piece and adding a plug, IIRC). My loader and 3pt are now in series, and it works just fine. And I don't have that 3rd hose going in the filler cap anymore.

 

[kennyd]

I have considered adding rear hydraulics to my 1110d recently. After looking in the Surplus Center and Northern catalogs I realized theirs hydraulic controls are 10-25gpm valves, my little 1110 hydraulic pump only produces maybe 4 gpm, those valve s are a bit overkill but would work. I have found that hydraulic valves from older garden tractors may be a better fit, either the one or two spool, depending on the use.I know many of these have no handles on them , but they most likely could be adapted to them. Salvage yards and ebay seem to offer a wide variety, and a whole lot cheaper.

Look at the Eaton/Cessna valves from the Surplus Center, they are compact and rated for 5GPM

2-Spool linked...

 

[gjbirky]

Welcome to TBN

Either valve you linked to will work great for what you want...and the Surplus Center sells the Brand valve also (but for $10 more)

Well, I can't find the Brand valve at Surplus Center, at least not on their on-line catalog.

Nevertheless, it seems either valve will work (thanks for the input Roonabeck). As for the other possibilities, I really want the "4th position float" for plowing snow, and possibly a loader later. So the loader valves are the way to go.

Thanks for all the input guys.

 

[kennyd]

Well, I can't find the Brand valve at Surplus Center, at least not on their on-line catalog.

Nevertheless, it seems either valve will work (thanks for the input Roonabeck). As for the other possibilities, I really want the "4th position float" for plowing snow, and possibly a loader later. So the loader valves are the way to go.

Thanks for all the input guys.

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