Adding lines for root grapple

/ Adding lines for root grapple #21  
What you see in the photo's is 5 males, and 3 female connectors, and 2 right angle adaptors all 1/2 inch. on 1/2 inch hydraulic hoses. the rear hoses are 72 inch, and the fronts were 108 inches. But I would do things different. I would use 3/8 inch hoses, and probably use adapters for the front and rear connections, and I would not use the 1/2 AG connectors in the middle, I would use some 3/8 quick connects in the center. You have to use the 1/2 AG males in the rear of course. As for the front connectors I would still probably use the 1/2 Ag's but you could use something else like the flat face if you wanted to. The 1/2 inch hose is harder to route, just stiffer to work with, and you really don't need it for the grapple.

As for the length, I suggest you take an old 1/2 inch garden hose and play with the hose routes on the tractor and you can make marks on it to measure your best route around the parts and pieces of the tractor. I ordered the hoses in standard lengths from surplus center. I might have used JIC fittings also instead of NPT because you can get bulkhead connectors for that front connection thru the bracket in JIC. I used home made copper crush washers instead. I hope this helps you.

You can see how my thinking evolved in this thread.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...connects-loader-torque.html?highlight=grapple
 
/ Adding lines for root grapple #22  
I totally agree with James on the hose size. Much easier to work with. And you don't have a high flow requirement to just run a Grapple.
 
/ Adding lines for root grapple #23  
I threaded a piece of heavy rope through to measure necessary hose lengths, otherwise, I did it pretty much like James, except for using 3/8" hose and flat-face couplers on the front end...these allow better mating with skid steer implements and open/close lever operation stays the same each hookup.
 
/ Adding lines for root grapple #24  
For grapples, plows, and 4n1 buckets 1/4" hose works perfectly.
 
/ Adding lines for root grapple #25  
Thanks everyone for the advice! Hope to do this once the weather gets warm.
 
/ Adding lines for root grapple #26  
This info is for TimBuck2. The control valve is a Prince RD412BA5A2B1 with a power beyond cartridge 660280001. I modified the handle as shown. The valve is mounted on the bottom side of the Woods control valve bracket after being modified. The valve and all of the hardware was
spec out by the tractor owner. He did at one time teach hydraulics classes, so he is my go to guy for this type of stuff. Hope this helps.
 
/ Adding lines for root grapple #27  
hobbie918 I have a 4300 and wanted lines to the front for a grabble and to run hydraulic sliding tines on my forks. The parts from deere to be able to use the third spool on the factory loader valve are pricing for what you get. I intstalled 3 new spool valves (6 rear outlets) for slightly higher price. There is a steel line at the rear of your tractor that comes out from the factory loader valve on the right across the top of the PTO housing and back in the left side (some have a filter and some are just the steel tube) to the factory 3 point hitch valve. This line is the power beyond (full hydrulic flow) from the loader valve to the factory 3 point valve. By removing the steel line you can come out of the factory loader valve with a hydraulic hose to after market spool valves (1, 2, 3, ect.) then out with the power beyond on the new valves back into your factory 3 point hitch valve with hydraulic hose. The only extra line you need to add is a line to tank from the new valve stack. I will add some pics. so you can try to make sense out of it. On the first pic you can see my line going to the tank with the 90 degree fitting to the right of the fill plug. Oh I have a cab so you would mount the valve to the ROPS or make a bracket ect.
 

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/ Adding lines for root grapple #28  
hobbie918 I have a 4300 and wanted lines to the front for a grabble and to run hydraulic sliding tines on my forks. The parts from deere to be able to use the third spool on the factory loader valve are pricing for what you get. I intstalled 3 new spool valves (6 rear outlets) for slightly higher price. There is a steel line at the rear of your tractor that comes out from the factory loader valve on the right across the top of the PTO housing and back in the left side (some have a filter and some are just the steel tube) to the factory 3 point hitch valve. This line is the power beyond (full hydrulic flow) from the loader valve to the factory 3 point valve. By removing the steel line you can come out of the factory loader valve with a hydraulic hose to after market spool valves (1, 2, 3, ect.) then out with the power beyond on the new valves back into your factory 3 point hitch valve with hydraulic hose. The only extra line you need to add is a line to tank from the new valve stack. I will add some pics. so you can try to make sense out of it. On the first pic you can see my line going to the tank with the 90 degree fitting to the right of the fill plug. Oh I have a cab so you would mount the valve to the ROPS or make a bracket ect.

You did a really nice job on that.
 
/ Adding lines for root grapple #31  
Everyone will have an opinion on this, but yes, I have one too. And I think the "true third function" is overated. But then again, I don't have/use one. I have a convenient rear remote valve that I use with my fingers while my palm is on the joystick, I again opinion only, but I believe I can operate and set up and grab rocks and brush just as fast as a "true third function" button setup. I also believe a diverter that uses your joystick to control both the lid and curl function would also be just as fast. Others will disagree, but just how many angels CAN dance on the head of a pin?:D

View attachment 406044View attachment 406045View attachment 406046



I am also using rear remotes to power a grapple on a DK45HST . However does this put in added strain on the hydraulic pump if the joystick lever is accidently placed in either of the detent settings
 
/ Adding lines for root grapple #32  
If you are in FEL float, You have no fluid for downstream operation as your pump fluid is routed to tank..

FLOAT SPOOL (POSIT10N): A spool valve design which connects all ports to the tank (return) port, usually in a detented fourth position, allowing a cylinder or motor to "float".

No strain what so ever.

The FEL valve has priority. It can use all or a part of the pump flow.
 
/ Adding lines for root grapple #33  
Using two functions at the same time is possible if the FEL valve is only using part pf the pump flow.

If the FEL is using all the pump flow for operation, there is no fluid left for any other operation except under certain types of FEL valve. Series/parrallel.

If you place a 3rd function valve in front of a FEL valve, you can operate other valves downstream, however, most 3rd function valves have no relief valve.

This is possible because the 3rd function flow goes to the cyl attached , and at the same time, the cyl expended fluid is sent back into the flow path through the 3rd valve OUT port.

The flow does not go to tank as most OUT ports do.
 
/ Adding lines for root grapple #34  
I am also using rear remotes to power a grapple on a DK45HST . However does this put in added strain on the hydraulic pump if the joystick lever is accidently placed in either of the detent settings

I had the detent position removed by the dealer before the tractor was delivered. It is fairly easy to do, several members here have done it themselves. There was a thread on it some time ago. The detent position on these valves seem to cause a lot of trouble, for new folks that don't understand what is going on. I figured if I ever needed detent, that is what they make bungee cords for.:)
 
/ Adding lines for root grapple #35  
Thanks for the answers. I was concerned because of the change in operating sound when the grapple was either completely closed or open with the joystick in the detent position.
 

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