Add this to the list of reasons I’m going to sell my Kioti

[Alan46]

We have a 2005 CK25HST with 1,200 plus hrs. Only problem was with the IP twice sec
Second time replaced the gears in the pump, so far so good! It’s a work horse

 

[CalG]

"The Kioti manual tells you NO fuel additives". What about anti gel in the winter?

Around here, we get "winter blended fuel" seasonally , right out of the pump.

Anti-gel is the claim. I wonder how this winter pump fuel would test.

 

[Grumpycat]

I paid for the fender. The Attachment shouldn’t collide or interfere with the tractor. It was sold by the Kioti dealer. I didn’t buy it aftermarket.

The tractor is supposed to know what you have attached and limit the lift accordingly?

What if another accessory could make good use of the added lift, so Kioti provided it? Without, you would complain using that accessory of not being able to lift high enough.

Would be nice if an adjustable lift limiter was available that when one attaches something it could be lifted to the max and the limiter set accordingly. Ideally in-cab.

 

[NoTrespassing]

I'm thinking my old 1999 Kubota has limiters you can set on the 3 point hitch control, both up and down. I've never used them though.

 

[DieselBound]

There are set-screws/knobs that one can install to limit 3pt lever travel. I bought an extra one just to make sure that IF I bought a CAT2 quick hitch that I could use it to set a safe stop point. In the Kioti Operating forum there's user Eric and he documented this issue many years ago.

My 2016 NX5510 is still working fine, now with 900 hrs. Had some early issues that were resolved by the dealer and Kioti: leaky cab and later rear diff. No engine or drive issues at all. Just experienced my second broken travel pedal return spring; not fun to replace but I'll take this over something more expensive.

OP get it fixed and run it or sell it (and take a loss) and get something else (and cross your fingers that that next tractor won't also present problems, though I can't see having as many issues as you've had with your Kioti). Seems to be a lemon. How to make lemonade...

 

[Alan46]

Mine has a limiter on the down side, but it doesn’t look like it would be that difficult to rig something !!

 

[DieselBound]

Mine has a limiter on the down side, but it doesn’t look like it would be that difficult to rig something !!

You can buy the same thing: I did. Not sure how easy to install as I just never got around to do it.

 

[Dunno]

Shag,
Sell your tractor and don’t look back. Way too many hassles already and lack of confidence. A lift arm that you can raise high enough to break your fender is BS engineering. No excuses for that though some try to make them. No wonder you are having so many problems, pigdin engineering. Then go buy yourself a good old Ford from the ‘60s or ‘70s and will it to your grandkids. The newer tractors all have confounded electronic this and that which probably will be a source of headaches down the road, especially when the mice figure out the wiring is wrapped in yummy soy insulation. Good ole American steel, and only points, rotor cap, and condenser to worry about for electrics. Something wears out, pull it apart with your SAE wrenches and fix it yourself.

 

[LouNY]

Shag,
Sell your tractor and don’t look back. Way too many hassles already and lack of confidence. A lift arm that you can raise high enough to break your fender is BS engineering. No excuses for that though some try to make them. No wonder you are having so many problems, pigdin engineering. Then go buy yourself a good old Ford from the ‘60s or ‘70s and will it to your grandkids. The newer tractors all have confounded electronic this and that which probably will be a source of headaches down the road, especially when the mice figure out the wiring is wrapped in yummy soy insulation. Good ole American steel, and only points, rotor cap, and condenser to worry about for electrics. Something wears out, pull it apart with your SAE wrenches and fix it yourself.

Installing a quick hitch with a shortened top link can mangle fenders and more on many tractors

 

[lacritz]

My Kioti CK25HT OK, could not get it to start. The dealer says, Oh the one you have has a problem with the seat safety switch, so he says to bypass the switch. Later the engine does not start again or just stops running. Well the 5 AMP fuse comes loose on the engine panel. Have to take the hood off to find the dam thing. Doesn't go back in the hindge joint right. The front of the hood won't close because the engine guard is too close. I had to extend
the guarrd with spacers. I did not know owning a new tractor required repair of bad engineering from the sstart.

 

[DieselBound]

Shag,
Sell your tractor and don’t look back. Way too many hassles already and lack of confidence. A lift arm that you can raise high enough to break your fender is BS engineering. No excuses for that though some try to make them. No wonder you are having so many problems, pigdin engineering. Then go buy yourself a good old Ford from the ‘60s or ‘70s and will it to your grandkids. The newer tractors all have confounded electronic this and that which probably will be a source of headaches down the road, especially when the mice figure out the wiring is wrapped in yummy soy insulation. Good ole American steel, and only points, rotor cap, and condenser to worry about for electrics. Something wears out, pull it apart with your SAE wrenches and fix it yourself.

Points and rotors

 

[Shenandoah MF1760]

I start to pull the lens cover off and it’s filled halfway with water. Ok, that’s why the light went out, but there’s no damage to the cover to cause it to crack. I check the other lens cover and it also has a crack, but no water. Also it’s not showing any damage.

I had a Mercury Sable Wagon that did this. The headlights would periodically fill with water and at night once the headlamps heated up any bump would cause the water to hit the bulb and crack it.

My theory was that the evening sun expanded the air in the headlight assembly and the resulting pressure forced the air out past the seals. The cool damp evening air would then be drawn in by the resulting lower pressure inside the assembly and then condense eventually collecting enough to cause a problem. Total BS? Maybe, I said it was a theory.

Anyway, the cure was removing the headlight assembly and drilling weep holes in the bottom of each. Never had the problem again.

 

[Shenandoah MF1760]

I paid for the fender. The Attachment shouldn’t collide or interfere with the tractor. It was sold by the Kioti dealer. I didn’t buy it aftermarket.

I think one of the questions here is whether the attachments were bought along with the tractor, or purchased from the same dealer at a later date.

If it was all done at the same time as a package deal I would expect the dealer to have sized the implements to fit the tractor and warn of any potential hazards while using them.

I have a ROBB that when it's fully lifted the change-over handle comes dangerously close to my rear window. In fact, I have to lower the box blade in order to open the window. This could have been costly if that handle shattered that window and it was something I hadn't considered. But then I bought the ROBB from a Kubota dealer who knew nothing about my model Massey and I didn't expect him to, so it would have been all on me.

 

[Shenandoah MF1760]

My buddies 2 year old durange has led driving light on driver side burn out. Its sold as a complete light assembly. $1,800 plus install labor.

This is when you install aftermarket lights, and when anyone questions why the hideous arrangement (only a possibility) you explain how you saved over $X,XXX.00 that the stealership wanted.

 

[Shenandoah MF1760]

I was told I put bad or adulterated diesel into the tank).

I think this was bunk.....but here is the circular logic....."the diesel in the tank did not smell right" - where do you get your diesel fuel?dditives.

Additives can void your warranty?

This comes from an AGCO (Massey Ferguson) site.

"AGCO DMAX diesel additives help ensure your equipment starts and keeps running all year long."

And, "did not smell right" I think I'd question the training and calibration on that certified service nose. I've never encountered any usable diesel that didn't smell exactly like diesel. I doubt most people could distinguish between OTR, marine distillate and JP5.

I put the same fuel and additives in my tractor that I put in the F-450. I get the fuel at any truckstop that has the best price. With a 110-gallon capacity in the F-450 using the truckstop pump keeps me from being there all day and truckstops usually have a high fuel turnover so it's reasonably fresh.

 

[DeanKC]

I agree that quality control has been sinking. I have owned my Kioti for 22 years and it has never failed to perform like new. 3-year old Korean refrigerator has been nothing but problems. When my son's Korean car motor failed, dealer got approval to replace it since nearly all were bad motors. Trouble was, the wait time for a new motor from Korea was one year. USA manufacturing must return!

 

[tacticalturnip]

You can buy the same thing: I did. Not sure how easy to install as I just never got around to do it.

I like the idea of that, just giving a little more control at your fingertips. I may just look into doing that come spring.

 

[tacticalturnip]

I agree that quality control has been sinking. I have owned my Kioti for 22 years and it has never failed to perform like new. 3-year old Korean refrigerator has been nothing but problems. When my son's Korean car motor failed, dealer got approval to replace it since nearly all were bad motors. Trouble was, the wait time for a new motor from Korea was one year. USA manufacturing must return!

Damn near everything since COVID has seen a decline in quality; it's no different over at the Deere forums, it's really damn frustrating. If you've got a good dealer behind you, be it automotive or agricultural, that helps a lot.

One might think that this was all purposeful, but hey, that would just be silly...

[EDIT]: You should post some action shots of the LB1914 in the Kioti forum, it's fun to see the older tractors.

Also, thinking about it, our Kia is a 2019 and has been nothing but wonderful, same with the F350- but post-COVID seems more of a gamble. The Ford truck forums are a mess...

 

[LouNY]

In post #1 the OP states that the quick hitch is what hit the fender. Many quick hitchs especially if the toplink is set short will contact fenders and cabs. Then on top of that many various implements have the potential of striking a tractor. Heck my old IH 574 has a dent in the fuel tank that was there when I bought it, it was from the actual lift arm getting raised beyond it's design height so it happens.
I got lucky this year year with my Branson rear window had the window open for better visibility and was raising my 3 point forks when the lift carriage caught the window, tweaked both hinges and didn't break the glass.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I had a Mercury Sable Wagon that did this. The headlights would periodically fill with water and at night once the headlamps heated up any bump would cause the water to hit the bulb and crack it.

My theory was that the evening sun expanded the air in the headlight assembly and the resulting pressure forced the air out past the seals. The cool damp evening air would then be drawn in by the resulting lower pressure inside the assembly and then condense eventually collecting enough to cause a problem. Total BS? Maybe, I said it was a theory.

Anyway, the cure was removing the headlight assembly and drilling weep holes in the bottom of each. Never had the problem again.

Just about every car with molded headlights or taillights had this issue to some degree in the late 80s through the nineties. As you said, I got out a small drill bit and drilled two holes on the bottom of the lens to let water drain out and provide a "vent" so that water wouldn't accumulate for my customers.

I haven't seen the water-logged issue for years on newer cars.