A small leak

[paccorti]

I just performed this fix. I might add that in additon to removing the oil filter you can also remove the oil dipstick tube with an allen wrench. This gives you a lot more room to swing a wrench. I used teflon thread tape.

Peter

 

[djradz]

Peter, keep us posted if the teflon tape works. I used that on my old 1720 and it only lasted for about 9 months. Did you use the same plug or come up with a different arrangement?
... Duane

 

[Mosey]

Paul,

"Dealer said he would fix it when I bring it in"

Did the dealer say how he was going to fix it? I'm concerned that if I take mine in they will just put teflon tape on it and call it good enough.

 

[IndianaPaul]

Danny:

Dealer said they would replace the fitting with a different type (iron versus aluminum and a sealant). He also echo'd 'djradz' comments early in this thread....this type of leak is one that Ford & NH both have a history of.

Paul

 

[paccorti]

I used the same plug. The leak is so small that I imagine it is not hard to block. Hope I'm right. I'd sure like to get more than 9 months out of my fix. If that fails, I might go the brass plug route.

Peter

 

[djradz]

Talked to the Dealer Service Manager on Friday and he says as part of the cool-running engine fix, they're disconnecting the coolant drain lines and plugging the leaking fitting with something different with a shutoff. Guess they take care of the radiator end with a standard radiator drain. I told him I don't want either done (I'm going in for my 50 hr today). I took care of the cool-running by installing the valve in the line from the radiator and I'll fix the fitting in the block myself. First, I'll try some different sealant, and if that doesn't work, change the fitting to a drilled-plug and elbow. Let us know how your teflon tape works.

 

[paccorti]

So far (knock on Boomer) no leaks. I did wrap the tape several times around the fitting. Also (though it is probably obvious) I wrapped the tape so that tightening the fitting stretches the tape, so if you are looking at the "nut head" side of the fitting I wrapped counter-clock wise.

I'll let everyone know when it (or if) fails, 'cause I'll be looking for a new solution too.

Peter

 

[djradz]

Took my 40D in for the 50hr service and apparently I misunderstood what the fix is, or at least how they were going to install it. Apparently, they now are going to take out the leaking fitting and put in one that not only seals better but also has a shutoff on it, and then reconnect the hose. The rest of the setup remains the same, so you can still drain the block and radiator at the same time. The new fitting looks like a plug with a threaded hole in it and inserted in that appears to be a standard radiator/air tank drain fitting. The old hose would slide onto this drain fitting and complete the circuit, but because this new fitting acts also as a valve, it also fixes the cold running engine thermostat bypass problem. I already had installed a valve in the line coming from the radiator so I really didn't need this second valve, but hey, if it works, maybe I'll eliminate the one I put in sometime down the road.

 

[TxSam]

djradz - Did you get the impression this was a New Holland 'fix'? If so, I was wondering if there is an associated part numer for the new valve fitting. If it was simply a dealer 'fix', I wonder if you could find out where they came up with the new fitting. Either way it seems like a clean fix for both problems. Congrats!

 

[djradz]

It was a NH fix. The Service Manager showed me the part in his book. I'll get the number when I go to pick up the tractor.

 

[paccorti]

Depending on how this new fitting is threaded into the larger fitting maybe it will be possible to get a large socket onto the larger fitting. That would make installation/removal a LOT easier.

Peter

 

[TxSam]

Cool!!! Thanks a bunch!

 

[tpaulson]

Here is a picture of the new fitting the dealer put on my TC45D in to fix the coolant leak and cool running problem.

 

[Fullthrottle]

Please post the part # when you get a chance.
Thanks!

 

[djradz]

Haven't gotten my 40D back from the 5o hr service yet so I don't know if I'll get the same part, but my first impression of the photo is that the part looks like it's made from a similar soft metal, not steel. Also, the design looks like it too will be tough to install and not enable the use of a socket. Glad the dealer is doing it. Will have to see if it holds. Otherwise, I'm on to a brass plug with a threaded hole and an elbow with a barbed fitting to connect to the hose. My valve is still installed near the radiator so the coolant bypass problem is no longer an issue.

 

[tpaulson]

I don't have a part number. My dealer did it as warranty work and I didn't get an invoice that had the part # on it. The work was done almost 3 months ago, so I doubt the mechanic will remember what part was put on. Maybe djradz can get the part# when he gets his back from servicing.

The install must have been a little hard. The mechanic came out to the house to install it. He was there for over 2 hrs. I think taking off the loader would have made the install much easier, but he never did remove it. I guess as long as it is done right and I don't have to pay the service charge, they can take as long as they want.

 

[djradz]

The dealer service manager made me a copy of the service bulletin when I took my tractor in, so I'll post the information as soon as I remember to bring it in. tpaulson, does the plug part look like steel to you or just more of the same aluminum or "white metal". The picture makes the valve part look like brass but not the rest. Wish the whole thing was brass!

 

[djradz]

The new part is SBA198736120, so start by odering and receiveing that. Next, the bulletin (#RQ11709) says you must then remove the winged-nut draincock fitting from it and set it aside. Then remove the old (possibly leaking) tap from the block and install the rest of the new fitting into the block. Then remove the hex-head draincock fitting from the existing common drain (the one the two hoses attach to) and put that fitting in the new part #SBA198736120. Lastly, take the winged-nut draincock fitting that came with the new part that was set aside and put that in the existing common drain fitting from where the hex-head draincock came. Sound simple enough? This works ok on my 40D, but on my dad's, both parts end up with a wing-nut draincock. Not a big deal I guess. Good luck to all!

 

[TxSam]

Thank you sir, great information!

 

[daffyduk]

O.K., What do I do next? I had the "running cool" problem and the dealer "fixed" it with the installation shown in tpaulson's attachment. Problem is, now I have a leak. The leak is coming from around the brass screw in the center. Anybody got any ideas. This is a fairly significant drip. Otherwise, the TC 40D is a really great tractor. Any ideas appreciated. I already called the dealer and they assured me that they will take care of the problem but I was wondering if anyone else had experienced the same outcome with the "fix".

Gene