A simple oil change.....Negative

[Soundguy]

a plastic valve cover I can live with.. the oil pan scares me.

I go off road..

 

[MotorSeven]

you kinda have to be an equine person to get that.

kinda like gee and haw..

I have a matched set of harnesses for these guys, but have not had the time to learn(gee & haw) and train them to pull. Heck, with the house build we have not even had a saddle on them in over 6 months:

Jimmy, it was definitely not cross threaded, it came out straight. I would like to point a finger at the mfg, but when aluminium threads come off usually it was over-tightened. As I said before I am always very careful with any oil pan bolt and in my 54 years this is the first one that has stripped on me. I was using a 1/2" drive ratchet, so from now on I will go back to a 3/8's drive less leverage and less tendency to over torque.

 

[Soundguy]

i have some class A minis that are trained to pull a cart. have a lil 2 person cart for me and the wife, plus the harni and tack.

havn't pulled in a couple years though.. not enough time!

 

[tnmike]

How about plastic intake manifolds. They are all the rage. Subaru i know for sure is using them.

 

[Soundguy]

plenty use them...

not a fan of that.. but still oil pan is on the very bottom of my list..

 

[ironnut]

I had everything ready, so I figured on about 30min. Warmed it up, slid a drain pan under then removed the drivers side drain plug. When I removed the off plug, it had a lot of resistance to it:scratchchin:. No metal came off on the threads so I pulled the old filter, spun on a new one then replaced the plugs. Yep, the off one was stripped:jaded:. Now I know what y'all are thinking, that I went Gorilla on them, but i know better and only "snug 'em".

So I had to run into town and get a self tapping over sized-plug. It was impossible to start by hand, so I used the air ratchet to get it going, then finished by hand. The new plug has a smaller removable piggyback bolt inside of it so I don't ever have to take the self tapping part out of the pan(good). But, the second bolt hangs down a lot further than a stock one..about an inch(bad)....so I really need to think about making that belly up pan this winter.

I'm really wonder why a aluminium oil pan is used by Kioti(and others). Steel would probably be cheaper and a lot tougher. At the very least the aluminium one should have a steel insert for the drain plug...jmho.

What about a helicoil repair? My wife got a bit exuberant with the drain plug on her motorcycle and ended up with the dreaded little curly cues of aluminum. I used a helicoil repair kit to fix the stripped aluminum threads. Flushed some kerosene through the crankcase to get all the shavings out of the system. Reused the original plug plus the repair was stronger than the original set-up.

gordon

 

[MotorSeven]

I was originally thinking heliciol, but my neighbor stopped by and said to try the new(er) self tapping oil drain plugs(I'd never heard of them). It was easier than drilling, tapping threads and installing the coil.

 

[Coyote machine]

If it were my tractor I'd take it up with Kioti. The tech from my dealer told me the first time I changed my oil/filter that the plugs are NOTORIOUS for stripping out, especially if one tightens them too much, or just enough to make the plug torque the pan threads on the way out. I had noted to him that I was surprised how LOOSE both bolts were when I went to remove them for the first change. After he told me that I went back and purposely loosened them slightly, just in case. That was on my DK-35.
I would ask your dealer for another pan. Kioti has to know this is a problem.

Next they'll be trying plastic exhaust manifolds! Good luck with that...

 

[JoeBuyer]

That's the plug on the other side of you. I guess I get that from horse teams...near horse and off horse, or if your mounting it's near side and off side.:horse:

There are drain plugs on horses? Sounds like that time someone told me cows had 7 stomachs. I looked from the left side of one of my cows and only saw one stomach, from the right side and only saw one. I think he was pulling my leg.

 

[Coyote machine]

Yeah, the main drain is just under the tail! Lift up and see what you get. And sometimes there's a nozzle under and between the legs too :0
Warning: wear goggles! Or is that googles?

 

[LTEnterprises]

My 03 dk 50c did the same thing...got a 1/2 x 20 tap and used a chevy / ford drain plug...they both use 1/2 x 20 threads....oversized plugs WILL give you issues in a few changes...least thats what i have experienced in the last 33 years of repairs...JMHO

 

[MotorSeven]

My 03 dk 50c did the same thing...got a 1/2 x 20 tap and used a chevy / ford drain plug...they both use 1/2 x 20 threads....oversized plugs WILL give you issues in a few changes...least thats what i have experienced in the last 33 years of repairs...JMHO

Thanks for the heads up...I'll keep an eye on it.

 

[boomer613]

Don't know much about tapping/thread kits but I think this kit would work for kioti's aluminum oil pans: TIME-SERT 0122A Oil Drain Plug Repair - Aluminum Pan 1/2" x 20 | Thread Repair Tools / Inserts

 

[Cpjlube]

The OP put in a "piggy-back plug". You thread in the oversize plug which has a smaller plug tapped down the middle. You never need to remove the oversize part. A steel insert from the OEM would have been best but if Honda won't do it making millions of cars, I'm sure Kioti won't do it. Good thing is, the drain plug has only two jobs. Hold the oil in and allow you to drain it occasionally. Not rocket science. I just wish OEMs would consider that and design accordingly. A good helicoil, installed properly, will be stronger than the original aluminum design.

Chuck

 

[JoeBuyer]

Or just make the plug a softer material than the pan threads.

 

[Soundguy]

in an aluminum pan.. hmm.. that'd be zinc or lead then..

 

[JoeBuyer]

I am no metallurgist but I believe they could have a different metal inserted in the pan that would yield stronger threads but still keep the aluminum pan itself for heat transfer. Or use a plastic plug. LOL

 

[patcopaul]

FWIW...
It seems to me that a simple answer would be to make the drain plug out of a softer material than the pan, then the plug would strip not the pan.
Another solution may be to make the plug like a wall anchor and let compression make the seal, then there would be no threads to strip.

 

[murphy1244]

How about using those expanding plugs like we used for freeze plugs?

 

[Soundguy]

i've seen that on a welch plug hole and it led to a seized engine.

I think a composite plug with an oring would be ok for an al-zn pan though..