97 425 garden tractor no start

[weeder]

Well I have been messing with this 425 and have come to the conclusion that the cam is bad. Had plenty of fuel, and plenty of spark but wouldn't even try to fire. I pulled off one of the valve cover gaskets and the vales and push rods were not moving. Is this a hard job to fix? My neighbor gave this to me so I don't have anything invested in it. It has a lot of useful attachments that would come in handy for me. I know I will have to pull the engine and a friend on here gave me a tech manual and I have copied it to use so that will help a lot. But there is nothing like experience when it comes to something like this. Any advice will be good advice.

Thanks Weeder

 

[Gittyup]

I did it and I had no experience working on engines. Definitely worth fixing if the rest of the tractor is in good order. I pulled the motor. Rotated to top dead center and took the cover off. It is best to replace water pumper, oil pump, governor gear, a bunch of O-rings and gaskets, push rods, and tippets while in there replacing the cam. Front PTO seal is the tricky one to keep from leaking. JD dealer should be able to tell you what parts you should replace. I think the total cost was like $600 or so. Also good to adjust valves and maybe replace valve springs and seals too. But valves can be done later after the engine is back in the tractor. Just remove the valve covers.

 

[weeder]

Thanks Gittyup, I think I will give it a try, like I said I have nothing in this tractor but I also don't want to lose $600 or so trying so I have all winter and probably start soon. The only concern I have is when you line up the timing marks is it right on tdc or do I have to watch the valves open and close to see if it is on the intake or exhaust stroke? Well I hope there is nothing else wrong with this thing and if anybody else has some input feel free I am open to just about any kind of advice.

Thanks Weeder

 

[Coyote machine]

Try mytractorforum.com for your specific model and needed fixes, etc. They are the lawnmower/tractor guys for sure.

 

[Gittyup]

Thanks Gittyup, I think I will give it a try, like I said I have nothing in this tractor but I also don't want to lose $600 or so trying so I have all winter and probably start soon. The only concern I have is when you line up the timing marks is it right on tdc or do I have to watch the valves open and close to see if it is on the intake or exhaust stroke? Well I hope there is nothing else wrong with this thing and if anybody else has some input feel free I am open to just about any kind of advice.

Thanks Weeder

There is a mark on the fly wheel indicating TDC. It's also discussed and illustrated in the maintenance manual. Seemed pretty obvious to me when I did it. If you get stuck you can always take the parts to the dealer and pay them to install. Worth trying, I think, as those tractors are awesome. It's more work and time to remove the motor. Gotta pull a lot of stuff off, like muffler and main drive shaft, motor mounts, wiring, carb controls and such. Some have said they can do it without removing motor. But, I wouldn't want to try that way.

 

[Gittyup]

Try mytractorforum.com for your specific model and needed fixes, etc. They are the lawnmower/tractor guys for sure.

Yeah, I think there is a sticky somewhere with illustrations.

 

[bruceatlam]

Here's a thread that can help you:

http://www.mytractorforum.com/44-sm...aft-replacement-kawasaki-fd620d-part-2-a.html

 

[Richard001]

You may want to take some photos as you take it apart so you will be able to put it back together again.

 

[Gator6x4]

I found this on another site the people were complaining about the plastic cam gear being the problem, not the camshaft. It may help you in budget planning and provide a listing of the parts needed.


PARTS FOUND IN THE KIT AS RECEIVED from ebay seller partsforyourmachine seller ($380).
1. Crank Oil Seal 92049-2112 (also in the bag was an oval o-ring and a nylon T)
2. Intake gasket 11060-2088 - qty 1
3. Intake gasket 11060-2087 - qty 1
4. Carb gasket 11061- 2106 - qty 1
5. Exhaust gasket 11060-2079 - qty 2
6. Rocker cover gasket for black composite covers 11061-2182 - qty 2
7. Head gasket 11004-2107 - qty 2
8. Water pump gasket 11060-2450 - qty 1
9. Water pump COVER gasket 11060-2451 - qty 1
10. Governor Gear assembly 49110-2073 - qty 1
11. Push rods 13116-2057 - qty 4
12. Crankcase gasket 11060-2449 - qty 1
13. Pivot arm 39003-2064 - qty 1
14. Valve springs 47078-2082 - qty 4
15. Tappets 12032-2064 - qty 4
16. Oil filter 49065-7010 - qty 1
17. Water pump 49044-2066 - qty 1
Additional parts purchased to finish the engine rebuild:
1. Valve keepers (Repair clinic ) at $.70 each Qty 7 -- $4.90. I lost one so I bought some spares.
2. Exhaust manifold studs (Repair clinic) at $.70 each – qty 4 -- $2.80. The threaded studs came out of the cylinder head on 3 of the 4 studs. New ones were in order.
3. Exhaust manifold nuts (Repair Clinic) at $1.20 each - qty 4 -- $4.80
4. Thermo Switch (Repair clinic) at $24.50 qty 1. The thermo switch reads engine temp and sends a signal to the red light on the dash warning you of an over temp.
5. Coolant Reservoir Tank (Repair clinic) at $14.50 qty 1. The original somehow ended up with a small hole in the side near the top. Silicone RTV plugged the hole for the last 2 years. Time for new one.
6. Kawasaki spark plugs (Repair Clinic) at $2.70 ea. Qty 2 -- $5.40
7. Thermostat Manufacturer #49054-2056 (Repair Clinic) Qty 1 -- $20.80. I wanted everything new in the cooling system.
8. T-Stat gasket (Repair Clinic) qty 1 $1.70

 

[weeder]

Oh wow, THANKS guys this will help a lot I didn't know how I would get the part numbers so this will help a lot and yes I have already started and have taken a few pics to refresh this old memory of mine.

 

[bruceatlam]

There isn't any cam/gear in the list above ------- you'll need to add that. And you don't need to pull the heads. You may want to pull the heads for some other reason but you don't need to to replace the cam. If you don't pull the heads, you won't need head gaskets ----

 

[weeder]

Well if I don't pull the heads how do you get the lifters out I am figuring that that the push rods are bent and there should be lifters riding on the cam lobes? Just curious since I have never done a small engine before. I hope these are the correct part numbers for this John Deere 425? I don't have a parts book so I really have no way of knowing what number I need pertaining to the part. I wish I had an exploded view of the engine and this might help me in figuring out how things work inside? But I really THANK YOU for all of this help and feed back and keep it coming because I will need all the help I can get.

Thanks Oldie

 

[bruceatlam]

If I were in your shoes, I would spend some time on John Deere's parts website. It's here: John Deere - Parts Catalog

Once you are on the site just search for your 425 tractor and you'll easily find all the parts diagrams and parts numbers that you'll need ---- you can verify the parts numbers from above. Same goes for Tulsa Engine Warehouse (www.tewarehouse.com), you'll find similar parts diagrams but you can get the corresponding Kawasaki part numbers from that site.

As far as removing the lifters is concerned, you do that once the bottom is off the engine and you're inside the engine. You can get the cam and cam gear out by just removing the rocker arms from the outside to get rid of the spring tension. Then you just push the lifters out of the way to remove the cam and the gear. Once that's done, the lifters come out from the inside. Go ahead and remove the heads if you want to ---- it's just more work and will cost more since then you need to buy head gaskets.

I posted a link for you above. It'll help you a lot to study that link. There are a lot of excellent pics and great step by step descriptions of the process --- lots of detail that will help you. Beware though ---- the engine in that link is not necessarily your engine and, therefore, the part numbers may or may not be good for you to use.

 

[weeder]

Ok thanks brucetlam, I figured the #'s you gave me were good but since I just got the engine out of the tractor and ready to disassemble I wanted to double check I will try those sites and hopefully get all the parts I need but first I have a lot of cleaning to do this engine had a little over 800 hrs and it looks like somebody has done some work to it. There was one wire I didn't see do to all the grime and I pulled into but there are 2 sets of disconnected wires in a harness along the frame rail I will have to do some investigating on that and probably need some help in the future. Thanks again hope to hear from you again.
weeder

 

[beenthere]

weeder
You really should invest in a service tech manual, either hard copy or the CD. Will be well worth it while you work through this overhaul.. includes the wiring diagrams.

 

[weeder]

Oh, I'm sorry I kinda do have one a person sent me but I had to print off the copies due to I could only have it for so long before it expired on my page. It has helped a me a lot but the information from you guys who have been there and have experience is even better. I am not enthused where they want that lifting device on the exhaust port of the engine it does not lift it very straight. I got the engine out but was wondering if I could makeshift something about center right below the intake there are 2 holes. I know that will be a ways off but just an idea. I have the chassis all cleaned up now I am getting ready to start taking the engine apart slowly with pics and bag & tag.

Thanks weeder

 

[weeder]

Oh, I'm sorry I kinda do have one a person sent me but I had to print off the copies due to I could only have it for so long before it expired on my page. It has helped a me a lot but the information from you guys who have been there and have experience is even better. I am not enthused where they want that lifting device on the exhaust port of the engine it does not lift it very straight. I got the engine out but was wondering if I could makeshift something about center right below the intake there are 2 holes. I know that will be a ways off but just an idea. I have the chassis all cleaned up now I am getting ready to start taking the engine apart slowly with pics and bag & tag.

Thanks weeder

 

[Gittyup]

You don't have to remove the rocker arms to replace the push rods. You can replace by just removing the tension on the rocker arms, as I recall, and install them from the top. But, if you are replacing the valve seals and springs, rocker arms must come off. I wouldn't mess with the head unless you are having other issues, like cooling or compression loss.

Don't know what you mean by lifting device. I just picked the motor up and set it in place with my arms. I put it in a wheel barrow to move it from tractor to shop table. Not that heavy. I'd guess 100 lbs or so.

As far as parts, I would definitely go to a full service JD dealer to get them in person. Tell them what you are doing and they'll make sure you get all the right parts. I would not buy parts any other way.

 

[weeder]

Well got the cam out and for sure a bunch of teeth missing also the water pump gear was broke too. I couldn't pull the cam out until I loosened up the top of the valves and then the cam came out but when it did 3 tappets fell out and I have no idea where they went. I pulled the rods out from the top like you said. Well the manual talks about a lifting device which I found on the left side of the exhaust port and that is where they say to lift it. But it doesn't work very well to much to one side. I am not as capable as you to pick this motor up and place it on a workbench so I had to use a engine lift. What about the oil pump and filter should I get a new one? Also I didn't see any bent push rods but should they be new as well as the tappets? Yes I will probably go to the nearest JD dealer and talk to them about all the parts and gaskets I will need. Thanks Gittyup for all of the good info just keep-er coming I have a long way to go.

 

[weeder]

Well as I was cleaning up the inside of the case I found parts of the cam and on the front cover where the oil pump and screen is I found inside the screen more pieces. But, also down there was at first I thought a needle bearing but when I checked how the oil pump is put in there they have those two to hold it together, but there wasn't any missing there. Hmmmmm I wonder if someone else along the line had problems and didn't clean the screen or check it? Unless I am overlooking something, maybe someone on here can give me some input if I forgot to look someplace else?

Thanks weeder