7800 Top and Tilt

[furb59]

I am about to purchase my 1st tractor. I have decided on a Kubota B7800HST. I will be using the tractor during the construction of our house. Weed abatement, finish grading, fence installation, and landscaping. After const. it will be used to maintain the property and horses. Do I need to purchase the Top and Tilt hydraulics from the dealer? If so, how much should it cost?

 

[8561]

You can do it through the dealer or you can do it yourself. Rather than everyone speculating, why not just get a quote from the dealer and go from there? By the way, have you considered the fact that you are purchasing a tractor without position control on the three point? If you intend to do enough landscaping where top and tilt is necessary, you really should consider position control as mandatory as well.

 

[art]

I like the clean looks of the factory valves. Many people do grading with the 7800 3pt hitch lift system with no problems, some can't seem to make it work for them. I've used the system on the 7800 the least but have had great results with it and found it to give me better control then with position control. Thats after over forty years with the position control!

 

[furb59]

What exactly is position control?

 

[Charlesaf3]

for finish grading top and tilt and position control sure would be nice. You can do it without them, but won't like the process I'm guessing.

I wish I had bought mine with top and tilt, and will be putting it on.

For mowing type stuff it's obviously much less necessary.

 

[8561]

Position control is a system that allows you to set your implement (like a box blade or back blade) in exactly the same position (height) every time you drop it. It can then be raised or lowered in exactly the increment you ask it to by moving the lever a little or a lot. When the hitch gets to the position you have asked it to, it stops there until you apply another input at the lever. A quarter inch valve (like on the 7800) is either full up or full down, until you stop it by going the other way, with one exception. You can alter the height a quarter inch at a time. I have used both, and like the vast majority, find PC to be a far superior system. With a quarter inch system, there is no way to set the implement at the same height every time. Think about spreading loam to a desired thickness and which would do the job better. I use it with my rear snowblower to blow a portion of my lawn where I park my snowmobile trailer. I set the height, never dig up the lawn. You get the idea.

A three point with position control and top'n'tilt with check valved cylinders is a great tool. I love mine.

 

[furb59]

8561...Thank you. Very good explanation. I understand.

 

[canoetrpr]

If your tractor has not been delivered yet, I'd work the TnT and remotes into the deal. Does not cost your dealer much to get these done while he is setting up the tractor anyway and I think that he'd be happy to work out a deal that is worthwhile for you to get the tractor configured exactly as you want it from day 1.

I would also recommend that you get an extra spool - for something else that WILL pop up in the future. Get three spools - one top, one tilt, one spare.

Honestly for the B series and the standard L series, there is not much difference in how clean the "factory" setup is vs. an after market setup. I've just installed an aftermarket setup on mine. The factory setup does not have hard lines and just bolts on to the ROPS like you would an aftermarket setup. That said - might as well get the dealer to do it for you so you can start playing from the start!

 

[Bird]

Since you didn't tell us how much the dealer wants for it, it's hard for us to say which way to go. But I can tell you that, in 1999, the two dealers I talked to said Kubota did not have a top 'n tilt for the B series (I had a new B2710) so I did not own without really knowing what I was doing, but with a lot of help from Tractorbynet members and I spent a little over $800. One dealer had told me they had one for the L series for $1,400.00. Terribly expensive, but well worth it, in my opinion.

 

[Charlesaf3]

another thing - if you are doing a lot of ground work a heavier L would be a better bet. Certainly weigh the tractor down as much as possible through filled tires, weights etc in any case. Weight = traction generally

 

[seapea]

...A quarter inch valve (like on the 7800) is either full up or full down, until you stop it by going the other way, with one exception. You can alter the height a quarter inch at a time...

This hasn't been my experience on the B2620. How do you get it to move just 1/4 inch? What I find is that the 1/4 inch valve is really just two stop points on the 3PH lever (up and down) that results in the 3PH being raised or lowered very slowly. It makes it easier to do fine adjustments because you can just push the 3PH lever all the way up or down, and have it adjust slowly, but I don't see how it is used to adjust by 1/4".

 

[ChuckinNH]

When adjusted properly, the lever to raise, and lower the 3pt hitch is spriing loaded. It's my guess that if you move it in the direction required from the neutral position to the stop, and release it, the lever will return to the neutral position, limiting the movement at the rockshaft to about a quarter inch. It would depend on how far to the rear of the 3pt arms the implement is how much that would move. The system looks like it would work OK when using the ground level as a reference. One could lower the implement slowly until it touches the ground, and then bring it back up a certain number of "hit, and release" movements to be roughly in the same place each time. I also think it works pretty well if you are making small adjustments as you move along grading, etc. PC, on the other hand is great for returning to the same depth either above ground, or below ground every time with out requiring a reference to the ground level each time by setting the depth stop, or just retuning to the same number on the scale each time. If one is moving along wavy ground, and trying to level it by compensating the depth of the implement to the tractor movements, I expect that either works just as well. I really think that both sides are right in certain situations in this debate. QI= ground level, or eyeball for reference, PC= reference scale.

 

[seapea]

My lever does not spring back, at least not quickly (if I recall correctly, not at all). Therefore I don't use "hit and release", but I do use "hit and return" to get small adjustments. Sounds like something else to have my dealer look at when I bring it it. When he explained how the 1/4 inching valve worked, it was like you described.

 

[seapea]

My lever does not spring back, at least not quickly (if I recall correctly, not at all). Therefore I don't use "hit and release", but I do use "hit and return" to get small adjustments. Sounds like something else to have my dealer look at when I bring it it. When he explained how the 1/4 inching valve worked, it was like you described.

I see now that it does spring back when moving the lever up, but not when moving it down. I see the spring that does this. However, there is no spring for the opposite direction, although I see no reason why one couldn't be added.

Can someone with 1/4 inching valving confirm whether or not your 3PH lever springs back to neutral after using it to lower the 3PH. If so, can you check if you have 2 springs and not just one.

Thanks!