'76 Deere 2040 Restoration

   / '76 Deere 2040 Restoration #31  
Zebrafive
Thank you for your reply. i remember those pto drive gears you & jd110 mentioned NOW.:D
Thanks again,Jim
 
   / '76 Deere 2040 Restoration
  • Thread Starter
#32  
Same shift rail is broken on my JD 2030. First time I split the tractor it was broken. I replaced the shift rail. Next split, broken again. Never gave any problems, so I have not repaired the shift rail since. I also do not have to worry about installing or removing that spring (not easy for me, the spring)

Interesting. Not really surprised to hear that since mine has been running fine like this. So I am just going to leave it then.

Any idea why yours broke?
 
   / '76 Deere 2040 Restoration #33  
Interesting. Not really surprised to hear that since mine has been running fine like this. So I am just going to leave it then.

Any idea why yours broke?

No Idea. First split was to fix Hi-Lo unit and it was broke. Hi-Lo failed and I took it to the dealer. I had never split a tractor and did not know a split was even needed. Dealer did the split and replaced the shift rail (Hi-Lo was also rebuilt, by the dealer) . Next split was to replace a broken independent PTO clutch oil line that broke. It was OK then. I did that split. Next split was for loss of hydraulics, it was broke at that split. I also did that split. Pressure plate has splined drive for PTO and transmission pump that failed. Has I known, I would have only had to do a clutch side split. I was expecting an internal oil had broke as before to the PTO clutch. It Only needed a pressure plate to repair.


Wild guess would be shifting in or out of park??


jd110 might know. It seems pretty common.


I did find both the spring (very mangled) and the part that broke off the shift rail. But I had the tractor split and they were at the front area of the transmission case, at the bottom.


I am not comfortable welding it in the tractor (I would if the shift rail was out), but they are complicated to R&R. You have to remove the rockshaft cover and there are balls and springs to deal with. If you do plan to R&R it, I would buy extra balls incase you drop/lose any.


I have not noticed any problems shifting at all.


I think jd110 posted the purpose of the spring, but I forgot the reason, something to do with park??
 
   / '76 Deere 2040 Restoration
  • Thread Starter
#34  
The spring I fished out look practically new so I guess it made a safe drop down past the gears. Of course there's nothing to attach it to anymore and I wasn't able to retrieve those pieces so into the parts bin it goes.

I'm realizing my setup/process isn't working for me. I have most of the parts off the back 1/3, cleaned up and primed. I'm trying not to make a dusty mess in my shop and want to move the tractor outside to clean it off. Seems like a waste of time to put all the parts back on just to run the tractor to move it out. Is there a simple way to bypass the SCV so I don't have to set that all up? I could just drag the loader with no hydraulics if that is a possibility (I would probably jack up the forks and lay them on a dolly to move more easily. Or, should I just go ahead and remove the loader so I can more easily move the tractor in and out of the garage when I have time to work on paint and rust removal?

My thoughts are to pull the loader and make it easier to move.

A little progress shot (its not a lot, but it is progress)
IMG_0552.JPG
 
   / '76 Deere 2040 Restoration
  • Thread Starter
#35  
Whoops...
When I took the cover off the shifter area I didn't realize the levers would lift out with it. I wasn't too worried thinking it would be fairly obvious how they were oriented to be placed back. Not obvious...at least to me. Can you all tell how I should put these back in? Below is a picture of just before I took it apart (thinking it was in park and first gear?) Would it be better to get the gears in neutral? If so, how and is there a picture for reference of what that would look like?

Thanks!


IMG_0700.JPGIMG_0701.JPGIMG_0505.JPG
 
   / '76 Deere 2040 Restoration #36  
Whoops...
When I took the cover off the shifter area I didn't realize the levers would lift out with it. I wasn't too worried thinking it would be fairly obvious how they were oriented to be placed back. Not obvious...at least to me. Can you all tell how I should put these back in? Below is a picture of just before I took it apart (thinking it was in park and first gear?) Would it be better to get the gears in neutral? If so, how and is there a picture for reference of what that would look like?

Thanks!


View attachment 636497View attachment 636498View attachment 636499

Circled in red is where the shift lever engages the shift rails. I would move the rails to line up the notches. so it will be in neutral.
 

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   / '76 Deere 2040 Restoration #37  
Great to have the knowledge and experience of members like Zebrafive active on this forum. Can be totally lost without them.
 
   / '76 Deere 2040 Restoration
  • Thread Starter
#38  
Great to have the knowledge and experience of members like Zebrafive active on this forum. Can be totally lost without them.

I agree, thank you. Haven't had much time lately to work on the project. Went to start it recently and it wouldn't start. I'm figuring I lost prime in the fuel system. My usual tricks wouldn't work to get it going. I have fuel shooting out of only one bleed screw on the injection pump when turning over the engine. Read somewhere to attache a hose to the other opening with the screw off and force some fuel in. Did that and no different. Only other detail I can give you is that when I stop turning over the engine I can hear fuel draining back into the tank from the return. If fuel is getting all the way up to the return, why wouldn't it start? Can anyone help?
 
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   / '76 Deere 2040 Restoration #39  
Have you checked to be sure fuel shut off lever on IP is in run position? My guess no engine start problem is caused by stuck metering valve in inj pump. Have you loosened inj lines at injectors?
 
   / '76 Deere 2040 Restoration
  • Thread Starter
#40  
Have you checked to be sure fuel shut off lever on IP is in run position? My guess no engine start problem is caused by stuck metering valve in inj pump. Have you loosened inj lines at injectors?

Shut off lever is not stuck and in the run position. I have loosened the lines by the injectors already. The manual suggests having two of the three loosened and I've tried each combination just to see if it made a difference...nothing.
 

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