6 volt coil question

[Chanceywd]

I changed my 1950 8N to 12 volt. I had problem with points on that until I figured out it was a worn bushing in the distributor. I replaced that and at the same time I changed to the solid state points replacement. That hasn't failed in close to 20 years now, always starts when cold as it is my snow plowing tractor.

Bill

 

[wolc123]

I changed my 1950 8N to 12 volt. I had problem with points on that until I figured out it was a worn bushing in the distributor. I replaced that and at the same time I changed to the solid state points replacement. That hasn't failed in close to 20 years now, always starts when cold as it is my snow plowing tractor.

Bill

My still 6 volt Ford 8n has been down and out since last summer, also with an undiagnosed “no spark” issue. I’m going to push that into a corner of my barn, maybe for 5 or so years, when I retire from my day job.

No real need for it now, and it’s plenty hard for me to keep one of those off-brand gas tractors running, with the limited free time I have now.

I wouldn’t dream of converting a 6 volt tractor to 12 volts or buying one again, that’s had that done to it. Too often, folks do that to make up for weak compression

When the Ford 8n and Farnall Cub, that I have now did run, they both ran real good. Someday, I hope they do again. I’m confident that the farnall will, because my buddy is real good with them. Not so sure about Ford though. That may end up a hedge row ornament.

 

[SymplePete]

My still 6 volt Ford 8n has been down and out since last summer, also with an undiagnosed “no spark” issue. I’m going to push that into a corner of my barn, maybe for 5 or so years, when I retire from my day job.

No real need for it now, and it’s plenty hard for me to keep one of those off-brand gas tractors running, with the limited free time I have now.

I wouldn’t dream of converting a 6 volt tractor to 12 volts or buying one again, that’s had that done to it. Too often, folks do that to make up for weak compression

When the Ford 8n and Farnall Cub, that I have now did run, they both ran real good. Someday, I hope they do again. I’m confident that the farnall will, because my buddy is real good with them. Not so sure about Ford though. That may end up a hedge row ornament.

Hey, curious what the final diagnosis was on the Cub? My 240 Utility (also 6v pos gnd) did exactly the same thing. Was running well, shut off like the switch turned off. Had a loose wire cause the problem before. Traced the ignition through the coil to the plugs, all good. Still no start. Thinking i may either have a points issue or a weak coil.

 

[ultrarunner]

Points can result in no spark…

 

[DJ54]

Hey, curious what the final diagnosis was on the Cub? My 240 Utility (also 6v pos gnd) did exactly the same thing. Was running well, shut off like the switch turned off. Had a loose wire cause the problem before. Traced the ignition through the coil to the plugs, all good. Still no start. Thinking i may either have a points issue or a weak coil.

If I read those last few sentences right, you have spark at the plugs although it may be weak. First thing I'd check is to look inside the distributor cap. They can get a build up on them like a carbon type deposit from ionization on the lugs, aluminum one's seems to be worse at it. This can be scraped off with your knife and get you by for a while. I actually got by with it on my one Super C for nearly 20 years, just to see how long I could get by with it. Cap finally cracked causing a backfire jumping across to the wrong lug inside causing a backfire. Replaced the cap and everything was fine.

I'd definitely check the points. Sometimes they can get burned or get a little teat on them. You may get a weak spark, but not enough to run. And again, check the rub block they can wear or roll under seemingly from if the grease was put on the rub block can soften them and cause them to wear off, or roll under. You can lightly dress the points with a small file, then re-gap them to the proper .020. They probably won't last long if burned because the tungsten coating has burned through.

 

[ultrarunner]

Sometimes polishing with a clean business card between the closed points was all that was needed to get going after a long layup…

I’ve never gone with one of the kits to replace points but friends really like these and no more points to wear out/replace.

 

[jwmorris]

I wouldn’t dream of converting a 6 volt tractor to 12 volts or buying one again, that’s had that done to it. Too often, folks do that to make up for weak compression

Both of our 8N's are converted, excellent use for old batteries that no longer start engines with 12 volt starters but are not completely dead.

One of them has a 12 volt battery removed from vehicle service 5 years ago in March.

Beats just getting a $10 core fee for a battery that can still be useful for years. Especially when 6 volt batteries cost more than 12 volt ones these days.

 

[jwmorris]

Sometimes polishing with a clean business card between the closed points was all that was needed to get going after a long layup…

And when we got the '48, I learned how much of a pain it was to get to the front mount distributor.

This is a trick my Father showed me to get them running without actually having to get inside the distributor.

That trick has saved lots of hours over the years. AC power cleans the contacts, DC does not.

 

[ultrarunner]

Interesting… first time I’ve seen this.

 

[jwmorris]

If you do not understand the dangers of AC power the method should be avoided. The bulb is the load for the 60 Hz AC power to blow the oxide off the contacts.

My Fathers drawing below shows using wall power but we don't have power in that barn so I used the generator that day.

Must use the neutral to the chassis, if you have not confirmed this, to the end of the line (if you add an extension cord check at the end of it) you put yourself at risk of electrical shock. Because you will have the tractor at 120v ac.

A plug tester can confirm this, I didn't have one that day, so I never touched the tractor "plugged in", except with the wood handle to crank it over.

A 12v dc/120v ac inverter plugged into the lighter outlet is what I use these days. Stays in the storage of that mule.