OP
F350Lawman
Gold Member
No reason, I just had the chain so i was going to use it. Using the toplink is probbaly better so i will.
55 gallon drum weight?
- Thread starter F350Lawman
- Start date
- Views: 61643
ns_in_tex
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2002
- Messages
- 914
- Location
- East Texas
- Tractor
- Kubota L4610 HSTC, International 2400, Hesston 1280,
I really like the pvc pipe idea for storage. Wish I had thought of that. I really like the barrel for counterbalance if you do not need another implement back there. You can pretty much forget about hitting something like you might with a swinging mower or other big implement.
Attached is picture of mine. Few things I did & wished I did.
Forgot till afterwards I needed a hitch, so I installed one with 6 hilti masonary anchors, fully expecting to have to run a band around the barrel to hold it on, when I jerked it off. So far it is still on & have been jerking a 7000 lb roller around with it.
I made my knotch for the top link a little too small & bent the top link when I raised the barrel all way up.
I took a 1" round rod, cut the ends down to 7/8" & drilled the holes for lynch pins & ran it through the center of the barrel. Then welded flat bar to it, running up top for the top link connection. Welded a little junk iron to hold it in place while pouring.
Works really well. I store it on a Harbor Freight car dolly. If I remember correctly, I did spread the casters out a little. Use a hay hook to drag it and other implements around to store or install.
Attached is picture of mine. Few things I did & wished I did.
Forgot till afterwards I needed a hitch, so I installed one with 6 hilti masonary anchors, fully expecting to have to run a band around the barrel to hold it on, when I jerked it off. So far it is still on & have been jerking a 7000 lb roller around with it.
I made my knotch for the top link a little too small & bent the top link when I raised the barrel all way up.
I took a 1" round rod, cut the ends down to 7/8" & drilled the holes for lynch pins & ran it through the center of the barrel. Then welded flat bar to it, running up top for the top link connection. Welded a little junk iron to hold it in place while pouring.
Works really well. I store it on a Harbor Freight car dolly. If I remember correctly, I did spread the casters out a little. Use a hay hook to drag it and other implements around to store or install.
Attachments
ns_in_tex
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2002
- Messages
- 914
- Location
- East Texas
- Tractor
- Kubota L4610 HSTC, International 2400, Hesston 1280,
Henro
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2003
- Messages
- 4,967
- Location
- Few miles north of Pgh, PA
- Tractor
- Kubota B2910, BX2200, KX41-2V mini EX
F350Lawman,
Can't remember if it was mentioned or not, but I would drill a hole in the bottom of the barrel below the pvc pipe to let water drain out, just in case you leave it outside in the rain sometime... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Can't remember if it was mentioned or not, but I would drill a hole in the bottom of the barrel below the pvc pipe to let water drain out, just in case you leave it outside in the rain sometime... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
OP
F350Lawman
Gold Member
Thanks for the ideas guys. Henro, I will put the rain hole, iIrpobably would have forgotten.
ns,
Nice barrel, thanks for the photos.
ns,
Nice barrel, thanks for the photos.
rambler
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2003
- Messages
- 1,994
- Location
- MN
- Tractor
- Ford 960, 7700, TW20, 1720; IHC H, 300; Ollie S77
You will want a hitch on it. This is a darned if you do, darned if you don't thing. Have a hitch sticking out, & you will back into everything & leave an ugly mark. Don't put the hitch on, and you will miss it almost every day. If you can engineer a quich-tach or low profile hitch onto it.... now's the time.
I would not want the floppy chains, I'd want a solid top link. You can custom make a short one from the front of the barrel, but realize how that drastically changes the 3pt angles and get it right.
However, you can put 2 limiter chains from near the bottom of the barrel, up to the top link, in addition to the solid top link. Then the chains will carry the weight of the barrel, not your hydraulics. Many mowers have this type of limiter chain to keep the front of the mower from dropping too far. Know what I mean, check it out.
My uncle built one long ago for his IH 404, he intentionally put the lower pins in too low so the barrel would not scrape on the ground if the 3-point was lowered. He parked the barrel on a block of wood. Me, I would prefer the limiter chains....
Now, a person kinda gets up to rammimg speed once in a while with a loader, & you might be using this thing for a decade or more. With a 1/2 a ton back there. I'd reather have a solid shaft through the barrel, rather than a couple flimsy rebars welded onto some short ears. Consider a decade or 2 of stress.... But you might be building this part more robust than I am picturing in my head.
Some good ideas in this thread.
--->Paul
I would not want the floppy chains, I'd want a solid top link. You can custom make a short one from the front of the barrel, but realize how that drastically changes the 3pt angles and get it right.
However, you can put 2 limiter chains from near the bottom of the barrel, up to the top link, in addition to the solid top link. Then the chains will carry the weight of the barrel, not your hydraulics. Many mowers have this type of limiter chain to keep the front of the mower from dropping too far. Know what I mean, check it out.
My uncle built one long ago for his IH 404, he intentionally put the lower pins in too low so the barrel would not scrape on the ground if the 3-point was lowered. He parked the barrel on a block of wood. Me, I would prefer the limiter chains....
Now, a person kinda gets up to rammimg speed once in a while with a loader, & you might be using this thing for a decade or more. With a 1/2 a ton back there. I'd reather have a solid shaft through the barrel, rather than a couple flimsy rebars welded onto some short ears. Consider a decade or 2 of stress.... But you might be building this part more robust than I am picturing in my head.
Some good ideas in this thread.
--->Paul
Henro
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2003
- Messages
- 4,967
- Location
- Few miles north of Pgh, PA
- Tractor
- Kubota B2910, BX2200, KX41-2V mini EX
<font color="blue"> I'd reather have a solid shaft through the barrel, rather than a couple flimsy rebars welded onto some short ears. </font>
I would have to add a "me too" to Rambler's comment here.
You might consider a cross drawbar for that bottom cross piece. TSC sells a Cat 1 cross draw bar with 7/8" pins on the ends for $21.19. It is 26" long...don't know if that is overall lenght or length of the bar between the inside pin ends though...
I would have to add a "me too" to Rambler's comment here.
You might consider a cross drawbar for that bottom cross piece. TSC sells a Cat 1 cross draw bar with 7/8" pins on the ends for $21.19. It is 26" long...don't know if that is overall lenght or length of the bar between the inside pin ends though...
Henro
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2003
- Messages
- 4,967
- Location
- Few miles north of Pgh, PA
- Tractor
- Kubota B2910, BX2200, KX41-2V mini EX
DavidJ,
Are you sure you are not confusing strength ratings of concrete with weight?
Now I don't know a lot about concrete, but I can't imagine normal concrete that they sell around here having that great of a weight difference.
Actually the only time I heard of concrete being made really heavy was in the construction of the Hoover dam, where they used steel in place of stone as the aggregate...
Are you sure you are not confusing strength ratings of concrete with weight?
Now I don't know a lot about concrete, but I can't imagine normal concrete that they sell around here having that great of a weight difference.
Actually the only time I heard of concrete being made really heavy was in the construction of the Hoover dam, where they used steel in place of stone as the aggregate...
GaryM
Veteran Member
And you don't need the 3 Pt. ends either! Just use a piece of 7/8 steel rod stuck through the drum. Drill a cross hole at each end to take the lynch pins.
I poured my weight in a 33 gallon rubermaid storage bin. Then peeled off the bin when the concrete was set up.
Oh, and if you use a top link, be sure the attach point on the weight is far enough forward so the link clears the weight when the 3 point is all the way up. Don't ask how I learned that!
I poured my weight in a 33 gallon rubermaid storage bin. Then peeled off the bin when the concrete was set up.
Oh, and if you use a top link, be sure the attach point on the weight is far enough forward so the link clears the weight when the 3 point is all the way up. Don't ask how I learned that!
DavidJ
Gold Member
Henro,
Thanks for bringing that to my attention. I was looking at some info on the net and misquoted some info. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
According to the cement manufacturing org, concrete mixture should weigh approx 145 lbs/cu ft, so the 148 I quoted should be close. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
The 2000 psi concrete I got from another site and after looking at it again I realized that it was air-entrained and ultra light aggregate. I'm sure that will not be used so just disregard that weight.
Thanks for bringing that to my attention. I was looking at some info on the net and misquoted some info. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
According to the cement manufacturing org, concrete mixture should weigh approx 145 lbs/cu ft, so the 148 I quoted should be close. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
The 2000 psi concrete I got from another site and after looking at it again I realized that it was air-entrained and ultra light aggregate. I'm sure that will not be used so just disregard that weight.