5085M stuck in park, but was forced to drive it anyway
sd455dan
Elite Member
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2012
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- 4,771
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- North Idaho
- Tractor
- Rhino 554, Ford 550 TLB (JD X500, MTD, Gilson riding mowers) Ford 3000-Sold
Ah... same idea as my Ford backhoe, yep they will roll when not running. Not sure why, but was thinking powershift.
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OP
pclausen
Veteran Member
I called and spoke to the service manager. He said that it drives fine now and goes in and out of park and no grinding noises. Just won't hold on an incline. He made no guarantees that it would not get stuck again (which of course he can't). So I'll pick back up when I get a chance. I guess that as long as I don't ever put it in park again, but always just leave it in first gear, chances that it will happen again are minimal.
So 14 gallons to do the transmission fluid. I did it at 100 hours and again at 600 hours. I forget the exact hours on it now, but I believe somewhere around 1,200 hours. I'll be sure to check to bits of metal when I do it. Agree to not wait another 1,200 hours before changing it again (what the manual calls for).
I'll test to see if it will roll in first gear or not. I know has an automatic clutch (PowrReverser), so maybe without hydraulic pressure there's no holding power?
Tractor has been great over the last 12 years since buying it new. Just to grins, I priced out a new one. They don't make the 5085M, so the 5095M is the closest replacement. Mine has the following options:
Deluxe cab
Air Suspension Seat
Buddy Seat
PowrReverser 16F/16R
Two speed PTO - 540/540E
Electronic Hitch Control
Front Weight Support
3 Rear SCV
3 Mid SCV
Radial Tires
Loader Ready Package Single Point Coupler
Corner post exhaust
70 mm Hitch lift cylinders
Dual front and rear work lights
Rear fender extensions
Comes to $107,025 on a 2024 5095M! Yeah, I'm keeping vs. trading it in! Its crazy it has pretty much doubled in price since I got mine. I want to say I paid about $70k for mine back in 2012 and that was with a H260 MSL loader!
So 14 gallons to do the transmission fluid. I did it at 100 hours and again at 600 hours. I forget the exact hours on it now, but I believe somewhere around 1,200 hours. I'll be sure to check to bits of metal when I do it. Agree to not wait another 1,200 hours before changing it again (what the manual calls for).
I'll test to see if it will roll in first gear or not. I know has an automatic clutch (PowrReverser), so maybe without hydraulic pressure there's no holding power?
Tractor has been great over the last 12 years since buying it new. Just to grins, I priced out a new one. They don't make the 5085M, so the 5095M is the closest replacement. Mine has the following options:
Deluxe cab
Air Suspension Seat
Buddy Seat
PowrReverser 16F/16R
Two speed PTO - 540/540E
Electronic Hitch Control
Front Weight Support
3 Rear SCV
3 Mid SCV
Radial Tires
Loader Ready Package Single Point Coupler
Corner post exhaust
70 mm Hitch lift cylinders
Dual front and rear work lights
Rear fender extensions
Comes to $107,025 on a 2024 5095M! Yeah, I'm keeping vs. trading it in! Its crazy it has pretty much doubled in price since I got mine. I want to say I paid about $70k for mine back in 2012 and that was with a H260 MSL loader!
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Alan46
Veteran Member
Have you thought about getting a magnetic tranny drain plug? It’s amazing what it will pick up!
OP
pclausen
Veteran Member
Finally had a chance to pick the tractor back up today. Parked with the trailer facing downhill a little and then put blocks under the front wheels:
Got it of the trailer fine and parked it on flat ground:
Here's a more detailed printout of the work they did:
Interesting that there was a dtac case on this issue. Hopefully the tech got it adjusted to where it won't happen again. Too bad I had to drive the tractor that 1/4 mile to load it onto the trailer with the park gear grinding away, but I really had no other choice.
Since the total he told me on the phone was $2,000, he knocked that off the total, to make it an even $2k out the door. Not sure what's up with the 5 gallons worth of Cool-Guard. I guess they had to drain that before removing the cab?
I drove it around some and it seems perfectly fine. I then pulled it straight into the shop and drained both the hydraulic and engine oils. Before I left the dealer, I picked up new oil and filters:
Man that stuff is getting expensive!
Hydraulic coming out was surprisingly clean looking. Old vs. new filter:
2018 sounds about right for when I did the 600 hour service.
@Alan46 Good idea about getting a magnetic drain plug. It looks to be metric with a 1.5 pitch and 24mm diameter with integrated O-ring:
I'll look around to see if I can find one. Leaving the tractor draining fluids overnight since the hydraulic fluid was still pretty cold, even after driving around for 15 minutes.
Got it of the trailer fine and parked it on flat ground:
Here's a more detailed printout of the work they did:
Interesting that there was a dtac case on this issue. Hopefully the tech got it adjusted to where it won't happen again. Too bad I had to drive the tractor that 1/4 mile to load it onto the trailer with the park gear grinding away, but I really had no other choice.
Since the total he told me on the phone was $2,000, he knocked that off the total, to make it an even $2k out the door. Not sure what's up with the 5 gallons worth of Cool-Guard. I guess they had to drain that before removing the cab?
I drove it around some and it seems perfectly fine. I then pulled it straight into the shop and drained both the hydraulic and engine oils. Before I left the dealer, I picked up new oil and filters:
Man that stuff is getting expensive!
Hydraulic coming out was surprisingly clean looking. Old vs. new filter:
2018 sounds about right for when I did the 600 hour service.
@Alan46 Good idea about getting a magnetic drain plug. It looks to be metric with a 1.5 pitch and 24mm diameter with integrated O-ring:
I'll look around to see if I can find one. Leaving the tractor draining fluids overnight since the hydraulic fluid was still pretty cold, even after driving around for 15 minutes.
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sixdogs
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I always drain fluid overnight and often get a surprising amount extra in. Which means I get a surprising amount of nasty stuff out and that's my goal. I drain hot or warm but you won't get that in this weather.
OP
pclausen
Veteran Member
I keep my shop at 62F during the winter (lowest setting the mini splits will do). So that helps a little. Did get quite a bit more fluid out, but it still looked good down to the last drop. So if the tips of the parking gears got worn off, I'm not sure where the metal went...
Even though the manual calls for 14 gallons of hydraulic fluid, I hit the full mark on the dip stick at around 11 gallons. I know the filter will consume some, but not 3 additional gallons! I'll keep an eye on it.
Figured while I was at it, I might as well do the front axle and hubs. Letting all those drain overnight.
Finally, I decided the check the engine air filters and cab fresh air filters. They were nasty:
And:
I also picked up the recirc air filters while I had my wallet out back at the dealer today. It took a quick look and it would appear that I have to drop the headliner to get at the recirc. filters?
Last time any filters were changed was back in 2018, so I figured it was time.
Even though the manual calls for 14 gallons of hydraulic fluid, I hit the full mark on the dip stick at around 11 gallons. I know the filter will consume some, but not 3 additional gallons! I'll keep an eye on it.
Figured while I was at it, I might as well do the front axle and hubs. Letting all those drain overnight.
Finally, I decided the check the engine air filters and cab fresh air filters. They were nasty:
And:
I also picked up the recirc air filters while I had my wallet out back at the dealer today. It took a quick look and it would appear that I have to drop the headliner to get at the recirc. filters?
Last time any filters were changed was back in 2018, so I figured it was time.
WinterDeere
Super Member
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- Sep 6, 2011
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- John Deere 3033R, 855 MFWD, 757 ZTrak; IH Cub Cadet 123
I suspect crankcase volume is listed at max capacity, so if you're filling to mid-line on dipstick, that might explain part of the 3 gallon discrepancy. Beyond that, there may be a big stuck in all of the lines downstream of any SCV's, which on a tractor with 4-5 SCV channels, could be a good little bit of fluid..
OP
pclausen
Veteran Member
Good point about the SCV's. I got 4 in the rear and 3 in the middle. The 4th in the rear is via 2 long hoses running to the mid SVCs (3rd function). I have a 3 way hydraulic blade and also a hydraulic top link, so I needed a total of 4 and my model was only offered with a max of 3.
I was able to pop the plastic vents in the cab and replace the interior air recirc filters as well. They were nasty:
Having new fresh and recirc air filters (the old ones were the originals from 2012, 1050 hours ago) made a HUGE difference in the amount of air coming from the vents. I probably got about as much volume with a fan setting of 2 now compared to 4 before with the clogged filters. I'll definitely start replacing these more often going forward!
While I was at it, I replaced the front axle fluid as well as the front hubs:
With all that done, I hooked up the FEL and went driving around for about 20 minutes, raising and lowers the FEL and dumped and curled the bucket a bunch. Also raised and lowers the 3pt hitch and worked the top link in and out. After all that, I pulled back into the shop and retracted all cylinders:
Waited 5 minutes and checked the fluid level:
So I'm a bit over. Figured I'll put the front grabble on next and the 3-way hydraulic blade (might need that anyway come Monday morning as they are calling for 5-8 inches Sunday night). This will allow me to work the fresh fluid out into those implements. Afterwards, I'll check the level again and then drain out enough to get back to a few ticks below the full mark with all implements in the retracted position.
I'm finding it very difficult to remember to NOT put the range selector in Park when shutting down. I guess that muscle memory from 12 years of always doing that, lol. But it seems to be fine doing that, so maybe I'll keep doing it. After all, they did adjust it to supposedly not do that again, at least not until something wears/drifts out of alignment again.
I was able to pop the plastic vents in the cab and replace the interior air recirc filters as well. They were nasty:
Having new fresh and recirc air filters (the old ones were the originals from 2012, 1050 hours ago) made a HUGE difference in the amount of air coming from the vents. I probably got about as much volume with a fan setting of 2 now compared to 4 before with the clogged filters. I'll definitely start replacing these more often going forward!
While I was at it, I replaced the front axle fluid as well as the front hubs:
With all that done, I hooked up the FEL and went driving around for about 20 minutes, raising and lowers the FEL and dumped and curled the bucket a bunch. Also raised and lowers the 3pt hitch and worked the top link in and out. After all that, I pulled back into the shop and retracted all cylinders:
Waited 5 minutes and checked the fluid level:
So I'm a bit over. Figured I'll put the front grabble on next and the 3-way hydraulic blade (might need that anyway come Monday morning as they are calling for 5-8 inches Sunday night). This will allow me to work the fresh fluid out into those implements. Afterwards, I'll check the level again and then drain out enough to get back to a few ticks below the full mark with all implements in the retracted position.
I'm finding it very difficult to remember to NOT put the range selector in Park when shutting down. I guess that muscle memory from 12 years of always doing that, lol. But it seems to be fine doing that, so maybe I'll keep doing it. After all, they did adjust it to supposedly not do that again, at least not until something wears/drifts out of alignment again.
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sd455dan
Elite Member
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2012
- Messages
- 4,771
- Location
- North Idaho
- Tractor
- Rhino 554, Ford 550 TLB (JD X500, MTD, Gilson riding mowers) Ford 3000-Sold
Well if it does ever get stuck again on an incline , I would consider just a light push or pull with the front FEL bucket edge to take the load off of the parking pawl before putting any real force on the lever. Obviously with the trailer attached IIRC on a hill there was no way to really do that when it got jammed.
ps. The tractor is Looking Good.
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