5075e hard to crank

[coosa]

My 2012 5075e came with a great OEM battery that lasted over 8 years. Finally had to replace it and tried a group 27 marine battery because that was the size that would fit. It worked ok except when really cold, but was done after 3 years. For the last few months, I had to jump it off every morning with a lithium booster, but the battery would crank it ok for the rest of the day.

So I finally got around to buying another battery and got a napa battery with a 950 CCA rating, thinking that should crank it in any weather. It won't; in fact, it won't crank it at all when it's cold. Just like the other battery, I have to jump it when the tractor is cold, and after that it will crank.

My multimeter said the voltage was ok, but I carried it back to napa so they could do a load test and they said it checked out above specs, with nearly 1100 CCA. I bought my own tester and it says the same thing.

According to the specs of the tractor, this battery should crank it with no problem, so now I'm thinking there must be something wrong with the tractor. I can't imagine what would make it work like this, so I thought I would ask here and see if anyone has any ideas.

I have made the battery cables shine and the ground is solid. It cranks instantly when I hook up the booster, and cranks fine the rest of the day. I did a recent oil change using Dello 15w-40, so oil that is too thick shouldn't be an issue. The tractor runs great except for this issue. Thanks for any ideas!

 

[RjCorazza]

Have you cleaned the other high current cables, like to the starter and ground? Also, cables can develop resistance from internal degrading.

 

[beenthere]

coosa

To me, "cranking" just means it will turn the engine over, but starting the tractor engine is another thing. So not sure I understand what is really happening when you state it will "crank the engine ok for the rest of the day" ?

 

[Harry in Ky]

Sounds like it needs cable attention more than another battery.

 

[coosa]

coosa

To me, "cranking" just means it will turn the engine over, but starting the tractor engine is another thing. So not sure I understand what is really happening when you state it will "crank the engine ok for the rest of the day" ?

Sorry, I mean it will turn the engine over and crank it fine the rest of the day. When I try to crank it first thing in the morning, the battery doesn't have enough power to turn it over. It sounds exactly like you would expect from a weak battery. When I connect the booster, it couldn't crank any better. The rest of the day it couldn't crank any better.

A tractor that acts this way has always been a weak battery in all my previous experience, and I'm pretty old. I have checked the ground connection on the negative cable, but I haven't done anything with the starter cable. I will try that next time.

Thanks for the replies.

 

[jd110]

My 2012 5075e came with a great OEM battery that lasted over 8 years. Finally had to replace it and tried a group 27 marine battery because that was the size that would fit. It worked ok except when really cold, but was done after 3 years. For the last few months, I had to jump it off every morning with a lithium booster, but the battery would crank it ok for the rest of the day.

So I finally got around to buying another battery and got a napa battery with a 950 CCA rating, thinking that should crank it in any weather. It won't; in fact, it won't crank it at all when it's cold. Just like the other battery, I have to jump it when the tractor is cold, and after that it will crank.

My multimeter said the voltage was ok, but I carried it back to napa so they could do a load test and they said it checked out above specs, with nearly 1100 CCA. I bought my own tester and it says the same thing.

According to the specs of the tractor, this battery should crank it with no problem, so now I'm thinking there must be something wrong with the tractor. I can't imagine what would make it work like this, so I thought I would ask here and see if anyone has any ideas.

I have made the battery cables shine and the ground is solid. It cranks instantly when I hook up the booster, and cranks fine the rest of the day. I did a recent oil change using Dello 15w-40, so oil that is too thick shouldn't be an issue. The tractor runs great except for this issue. Thanks for any ideas!

Since the new battery is testing ok, I assume the alternator is keeping it charged properly. First, I would be sure all hydraulics are in neutral. No levers sticking. Also try lowering the hitch when cranking to be sure hitch is not in relief. You can try attaching a jumper cable from positive post on battery to the large terminal on starter. If it cranks better, this would indicate a bad positive cable. Then try a jumper cable from the negative battery terminal to a good clean ground. Maybe to the engine block if possible. If it then cranks better, it would indicate a bad negative cable or bad connection from cable to ground. Have seen quite a few 5 series that the negative cable has a bad connection where it bolts down to the frame. Remove that bolt, usually a 15 mm socket. sand down the metal shiny on cable end and frame surface and secure with a new bolt. If none of this helps, a suspect your starter is getting weak.

 

[coosa]

Since the new battery is testing ok, I assume the alternator is keeping it charged properly. First, I would be sure all hydraulics are in neutral. No levers sticking. Also try lowering the hitch when cranking to be sure hitch is not in relief. You can try attaching a jumper cable from positive post on battery to the large terminal on starter. If it cranks better, this would indicate a bad positive cable. Then try a jumper cable from the negative battery terminal to a good clean ground. Maybe to the engine block if possible. If it then cranks better, it would indicate a bad negative cable or bad connection from cable to ground. Have seen quite a few 5 series that the negative cable has a bad connection where it bolts down to the frame. Remove that bolt, usually a 15 mm socket. sand down the metal shiny on cable end and frame surface and secure with a new bolt. If none of this helps, a suspect your starter is getting weak.

Thanks, that sounds like really good advice. I had a problem with the negative cable ground a few years ago and I have cleaned it well. I don't think it's the problem, but could be wrong.

Running the tests with jumper cables is a great idea. I will do that and let everyone know, but it may be over a week before I get back to the farm. We are in a drought and I can't really do any more work until it rains.

 

[coosa]

I had some things going on and just made it back to the farm and my tractor yesterday. I tried to crank the tractor, and it wouldn't. It turned over a couple of times, but not fast enough to crank it. So I did as suggested and ran a jumper cable from battery+ to the starter and it cranked immediately.

I don't think I've ever seen a cable fail like this before. There is no sign of corrosion on either end and no sign of damage. It still carries current, but not enough to crank the tractor when it's cold unless the booster is attached. With the booster on it, the cable carries enough current to crank it instantly, even when cold. I think the booster supplies over 14 volts, while the battery is 12.8 and the extra voltage is enough to crank it.

I am sure John Deere will want a lot for a cable like this. If I try to make one, I suspect it will be constant trouble. Is there a cheaper alternative than a JD cable? I can think of some redneck ways of making it work, but all are probably bad ideas.

Thanks for the help that you guys gave me! I just didn't think the cable would go bad with no visible damage.

 

[Harry in Ky]

It's a battery cable. Doesn't matter what brand it is. You can get one at any parts house. Just don't get a lightweight cable for automotive use. Get one at least 2 gauge, nothing smaller than that.

 

[Tx Jim]

Length of 5075E positive battery cable is 1150MM(45.2'')