frank_f15
Super Member, Rest in Peace
AGREE with u again bird. just use 4wd when necessary, for just mowing or doing odd jobs 2wd, no need to tear up any more ground than necessary.
4x4 power
- Thread starter Anonymous Poster
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bgott
Veteran Member
I end up using FWD on pavement more than I should. On a lot of the jobs I do I have the fill dropped in the street and use the loader to move it where I want. It's easier to leave it in FWD than to shift it in and out. Time will tell if this is a bad idea or not. It lets me know if I forget to kick it out, the gears really howl when you get up to road speed.
ewoss3
Gold Member
You mean there is a 2wd setting for my tractor? it can't be too hard on the tractors since jeeps and lots of service vehicles have been 4x4 only since 1946. I admit to trying the 2wd mode out once but I just ended up stuck and had to shift right back to 4x4
DVerbarg
Platinum Member
<font color=blue>It's easier to leave it in FWD than to shift it in and out.</font color=blue>
Not intending to stir anything up but just wanted to point out that this is one area that the Boomers have a slight advantage: the Sensi-trak feature. 4wd kicks in when wheel slippage starts, hence reducing unnecessary wear on tires and gears. Boomers have three settings: 2wd, sensi-trak, and full time 4wd. I usually end up leaving it in sensi-trak around 98% of the time.
Not intending to stir anything up but just wanted to point out that this is one area that the Boomers have a slight advantage: the Sensi-trak feature. 4wd kicks in when wheel slippage starts, hence reducing unnecessary wear on tires and gears. Boomers have three settings: 2wd, sensi-trak, and full time 4wd. I usually end up leaving it in sensi-trak around 98% of the time.
Jeff396
Veteran Member
Heck, I'm still having trouble adjusting to 4x4 trucks where you don't have to get out and manually lock the hubs!/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
Jeff
Jeff
RoyJackson
Rest in Peace
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2001
- Messages
- 24,646
- Location
- Bethel, Vermont
- Tractor
- John Deere 4052R Cab,, Deere 855D UTV, Z920A Zero Turn Mower and assorted implements
Heck, I'm still having trouble adjusting to 4x4 trucks where you don't have to get out and manually lock the hubs
I know what ya mean...got one with auto-locking hubs, and a pick up with manual hubs...no wonder I can't get anywhere!
I know what ya mean...got one with auto-locking hubs, and a pick up with manual hubs...no wonder I can't get anywhere!
Well, my Kubota manual lists 2WD and 4WD at the same horsepower - no surprise there. So, it's traction. How much difference - 20-25% previously mentioned, maybe. I run in 2WD most of the time to minimize wear/tear. Heck, when the much smaller front tires are "light" (e.g. heavy brush cutter or box blade), the 4WD advantage is minimal. Also note that the front differential on most tractors does not lock, so in slippery conditions only the front tire with the greater traction is helping pull the load. 4WD drive is more helpful in compact tractors than it is for the larger, very heavy agricultural types (no FEL, just pulling tasks) - when one has a tractor that weighs over 4500 lbs, with rear duallies and a locking rear differential, the relative advantage of traction on 1 of the small front wheels is minimal.
Yes, it sure is nice not to have to switch to 4WD at the hubs, especially during snow/sleet. Do most of you folks who normally use 2WD, when faced with a temporarily challenging traction problem, stomp on the rear differential lock-up lever (yes, after the lower traction tire stops spinning), or reach down for a yank on the 4WD knob?
Listen, I love having 4WD drive whenever I need it, as it has saved my bacon on numerous occasions, & when the rear tires are "light" (e.g., FEL load), it is sure makes driving less dicey.
Yes, it sure is nice not to have to switch to 4WD at the hubs, especially during snow/sleet. Do most of you folks who normally use 2WD, when faced with a temporarily challenging traction problem, stomp on the rear differential lock-up lever (yes, after the lower traction tire stops spinning), or reach down for a yank on the 4WD knob?
Listen, I love having 4WD drive whenever I need it, as it has saved my bacon on numerous occasions, & when the rear tires are "light" (e.g., FEL load), it is sure makes driving less dicey.
frank_f15
Super Member, Rest in Peace
you hit the nail right on the head!!! one of the things i had to get used to was the fel being able to lift front end up, when u do that your front drive wheels do nothing. was not used to a tractor that woud do that, but i learned! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif on the whole w4d is great.
Chillimau
Silver Member
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2001
- Messages
- 210
- Location
- Prairie View, OK
- Tractor
- Yanmar 147, 1987 Model Made for USA (not a grey)
I thought the 5000 series deeres had a limited slip front axle? Do any of the brands have a center differential? If so full time 4wd would be fine, I would think. I don't know any that do tho.
g
g
bgott
Veteran Member
They have it on the TNs, too. You have to order the power shuttle to get it.
TresCrows
Elite Member
If it is a tempoary loss of traction I step on the lock differential pedal. If I am doing loader work or boxblade work etc it is in 4X4, if I am mowing it is in 2WD and if I am hogging it may be in either depending on where I am.
I cannot beleive there is even the question as to the value of 4WD on small tractors, really big stuff maybe not but on a compact utility or even a utility tractor--yes and 20 or so percent increase---maybe 30 percent or more when the loader is on and filling with soil those front wheels have a lot of weight on them and therefore plenty of traction. It makes all the difference in the world. I like the bi-speed too.
Make mine 4X4.
J
I cannot beleive there is even the question as to the value of 4WD on small tractors, really big stuff maybe not but on a compact utility or even a utility tractor--yes and 20 or so percent increase---maybe 30 percent or more when the loader is on and filling with soil those front wheels have a lot of weight on them and therefore plenty of traction. It makes all the difference in the world. I like the bi-speed too.
Make mine 4X4.
J
hwp
Platinum Member
Gee Jeff, I didn 't know manual locking hubs were still around, or do you have 4WD on your '65 TBird? Even my old 92 Ford 150 has automatic hubs. BTW, did you get your top problem on your TBird solved? If so, what was it, circuit breaker or pump?
The sequence I use on my Kubota F2400 is 2WD as much as possible. If I need to, I then sfift to 4WD. If I need even more traction, I use the differntial lock. I follow this even when I am plowing snow. I have turf tires and don't use chains but even so I very seldom have to use 4WD, but it sure is nice to have it when you need it. Where 4WD is really helpful is mowing the steep banks of ditches.
The sequence I use on my Kubota F2400 is 2WD as much as possible. If I need to, I then sfift to 4WD. If I need even more traction, I use the differntial lock. I follow this even when I am plowing snow. I have turf tires and don't use chains but even so I very seldom have to use 4WD, but it sure is nice to have it when you need it. Where 4WD is really helpful is mowing the steep banks of ditches.
Jeff396
Veteran Member
I am fortunate that I have not had to buy a 4x4 since 1991 when I finally escaped the great white North. Up until then I only owned the manual lockout front hubs and wouldn't have had it any other way. Back then I seem to remember that the automatic ones could create more problems than they solved. Don't know what I'd do now if I were in the market...doesn't anyone still make manual locking hubs?/w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif
I got the T-bird top working though I don't have any idea how. I went through the troubleshooting section in the manual and used a few jumpers to check things out and viola...it started working. It's worked fine ever since. Go figure!/w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif
I keep my tractor in 2wd while mowing. We have some pretty small but steep hills that I will shift into 4wd drive to mow but will put it back into 2wd once I am done with them. The only time I need the diff lock is when I'm using the fel. I always use the fel with 4wd and will occasionally run out of traction making using the diff lock necessary. I don't look at it as a headache. I think everything about using this tractor is just plain fun as long as I don't have to use it to make a living./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
Jeff
I got the T-bird top working though I don't have any idea how. I went through the troubleshooting section in the manual and used a few jumpers to check things out and viola...it started working. It's worked fine ever since. Go figure!/w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif
I keep my tractor in 2wd while mowing. We have some pretty small but steep hills that I will shift into 4wd drive to mow but will put it back into 2wd once I am done with them. The only time I need the diff lock is when I'm using the fel. I always use the fel with 4wd and will occasionally run out of traction making using the diff lock necessary. I don't look at it as a headache. I think everything about using this tractor is just plain fun as long as I don't have to use it to make a living./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
Jeff
EdKing
Platinum Member
<font color=blue>doesn't anyone still make manual locking hubs?</font color=blue>
I know Toyota still offered them in '91, as I specificly asked for them on my pickup. I don't know if they still do, but if I have my preference, I will go with manual whem I get my next pickup.
I know Toyota still offered them in '91, as I specificly asked for them on my pickup. I don't know if they still do, but if I have my preference, I will go with manual whem I get my next pickup.
hwp
Platinum Member
<font color=blue>...it started working. It's worked fine ever since. Go figure.</font color=blue>
I think the problem is either in the hot wire connection to circuit breaker or the circuit breaker itself. Those old circuit breakers do get tired and stick. They are supposed to reset automatically but sometimes they don't. But when you use a jumper wire to bypass them they do reset. Anyway see how longs it goes until you have another problem. It could be years!
I think the problem is either in the hot wire connection to circuit breaker or the circuit breaker itself. Those old circuit breakers do get tired and stick. They are supposed to reset automatically but sometimes they don't. But when you use a jumper wire to bypass them they do reset. Anyway see how longs it goes until you have another problem. It could be years!
Jeff396
Veteran Member
We had and '84 Toyota 4x4 truck and an 85 Landcruiser. They were both on the crude side by todays standards which honestly I like better. The pickup didn't even have carpet but rather a rubber type floor covering. I really liked hosing it out when it got dirty. But I'll go you one better....not only do I want the manual locking front hubs but I also want the solid front axle for heavy duty playing. Who cares how it rides.....Oh yeah, I forgot it's now just a tall car. Kind of reminds me of that song The Day the Music Died. They need a song for the day they started making Cadillac, Lincoln and Lexus 4x4 extra tall station wagons....Geeeeees!!!/w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif Just can't bring myself to call them a truck.
Jeff
Jeff
Jeff396
Veteran Member
I hope you're right about working for years. Funny thing was it's not that it didn't work at all...it kinda pulsated when trying to raise the top. If it didn't work at all I'm sure I could figure out the culprit. It's kinda like my radio in the T-bird. It works fine for about a half an hour and then it starts to cut out on me. It was suggested to me to spray some cold stuff on two of the componants on the outside of the radio when it's giving me problems. One of these days I'll get around to it. The car really needs some electrical work but it needs some suspension work first. Too many projects and not enough time.
Jeff
Jeff
EdKing
Platinum Member
<font color=blue>Just can't bring myself to call them a truck.</font color=blue>
I here you there. The worst part about them is most people who buy them will never take them off road. They just buy them because they are a status symbol. <font color=red>Hey look at me, I drive a SUV.</font color=red> I also feel some of those comercials a just asking people to get into trouble with the stunts they pull. They cover thier a$$%$ by putting in the fine print at the end <font color=purple> Stunt driver on closed corse, do not try this at home.</font color=purple>
I here you there. The worst part about them is most people who buy them will never take them off road. They just buy them because they are a status symbol. <font color=red>Hey look at me, I drive a SUV.</font color=red> I also feel some of those comercials a just asking people to get into trouble with the stunts they pull. They cover thier a$$%$ by putting in the fine print at the end <font color=purple> Stunt driver on closed corse, do not try this at home.</font color=purple>
<font color=blue>The worst part about them is most people who buy them will never take them off road</font color=blue>
Agreed!!! That drives me nuts!!! Sorry, if someone has a 4wd and has never used it, I loose a lot of respect for them because it is painfully obvious that they are in it simply for the "cool look." If someone's that vain, I probably don't want them as a friend anyway...
Agreed!!! That drives me nuts!!! Sorry, if someone has a 4wd and has never used it, I loose a lot of respect for them because it is painfully obvious that they are in it simply for the "cool look." If someone's that vain, I probably don't want them as a friend anyway...
hwp
Platinum Member
Jeff:
How quick was the pulsating and what was the temperature? My suspicion is that the brushes in your pump motor are almost worn out and shorting under heavy load (i.e. if it was on the cool side the motor would have to work harder to build enough pressure to work the lift mechanism). This could overload the circuit breaker and make it cutout, but it would take a few seconds before it reset. If the pulsating was fairly rapid, then this is not the problem. The pump motor in my '59 really grunts in cold weather. I've forgotten, but doesn't your '65 have a transistor radio? Your symptoms sound like a gassy tube but I don't think your radio has tubes.
How quick was the pulsating and what was the temperature? My suspicion is that the brushes in your pump motor are almost worn out and shorting under heavy load (i.e. if it was on the cool side the motor would have to work harder to build enough pressure to work the lift mechanism). This could overload the circuit breaker and make it cutout, but it would take a few seconds before it reset. If the pulsating was fairly rapid, then this is not the problem. The pump motor in my '59 really grunts in cold weather. I've forgotten, but doesn't your '65 have a transistor radio? Your symptoms sound like a gassy tube but I don't think your radio has tubes.
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