Chains 4WD and chains

[Freds]

In light of the recent storm passing through the northeast, the snow drifting from a different direction and having to move one foot of snow that covered my drive from side to side for the first time (usually the wind keeps my drive semi-clear), I would like to get some chains for next year's winter for my little 7500, which still performed admirably /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
My question: Do those of you with 4WD tractors usually put chains on the front and rear, or just the rear? I just thought of another question: Do chains help traction on water logged fields and mud?

Thanks for any replies.

Fred

 

[Ledgemere Farm]

If you drive into the mud with chains on, they will dig you in deeper. For snow, just put them on the back.

 

[tc35dforme]

I may regret saying this....but.....I run chains only on the front of mt TC35D. I found I needed only a little better grab on the front to aid in steering on my icy gravel driveway. My bud also runs front only on his JD 4510. I have St. Pierre Roller Grips. Hold up and have good traction.

As for muddin'...you'll need some special chains ( skidder style ) to get the traction you need. Regular chains will usually dig a trench.

 

[Henro]

<font color="blue"> If you drive into the mud with chains on, they will dig you in deeper. For snow, just put them on the back.
</font>

I suppose this could be true in some cases. BUT I have found that chains help me in mud, as compared to not having them.

Now I have R4s and not ag tires, so that could be a difference. But with R4s and no chains, my lugs will fill up with the wet clay we have, and I end up with slicks that take me nowhere.

Now if the mud is soup, then chains or no chains makes no difference, in my limited experience... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif Glad I had the loader and backhoe on that time!

Chains on the back of my tractor keep it from breaking into slides on wet grassy slopes. They are a HUGE difference in this case. Experience talking again... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

My rear chains go on in late fall before the first snow, and come off in late spring, after the April showers are done.

Works for me... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Have not tried front chains, but the other day I wished I had some...again in the mud, and again with the front tires filled turned into brown slicks. I could not steer and was in ruts and could not get out because the front wheels would not grab and just slid along the bottoms of the ruts while turned sideways [yes, 4x4 was engaged].

The only reason I got out of there was because I had chains on the rear R4s. It may depend on your soil conditions, but around here chains do make a difference in mud.

Doesn't seem like chains would have helped this guy though...see attachment...sorry, I don't remember who this was...

 

[slowrev]

Based on my experience, I agree with Henro.

 

[Old_Hickory]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( <font color="blue"> I suppose this could be true in some cases. BUT I have found that chains help me in mud, as compared to not having them. </font> )</font>

I agree with you 100%,I have been running a homemade set of tire chains on the front of my JD 4400 since early January.The chains have helped me tremendously on ice/snow and during the thaws and rain in the mud. I have been log skidding and the woods are a mess.I been in the mud so deep I have pushed mud with the axle,with out the tire chains I would never have made it through,but chains have there limits as well( I know /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif)

 

[garbageman]

I have never needed chains on my 7500 while removing snow. I have R4's, 4WD and off I go! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[WCarlson]

I use chains fore and aft with my JD 4200 with R-4's. Rear chains alone wouldn't hack my steep driveway with ice or wet snow. We have had over 180 inches of snow so far this season so I get to practice a lot. I haven't been using the chains except in winter, however, there have been times in mud that the extra bite would have been most welcome.
Bill

 

[frank_f15]

in some cases chains are fine(not sure if i would run them on the front) also with mud, depends on the type of mud, just remembe chains are not the answer to all traction problems, some time common sense is best, if its that muddy staay out.

 

[Boondox]

You don't mention the type of tires you run or the conditions on your land (slope, ice, etc) but my conditions are about as bad as they get. 25% slope, major snowfall, and a spring on top of the hill that turns the upper road into a sheet of ice. I run loaded aggies on my L3010, and use chains only on the rear. Granted they are Valby ice chains with gnarly spikes sticking out in every direction, but the front rarely slips given a bit of cautious driving.

As for muddy conditions, absolutely they help...provided there is something under the mud for them to grip! If your mud is bottomless greasy stuff, avoid it. But during mud season I've dragged logs home in goop up to nearly the axles. One other caveat, however. Chains will absolutely destroy your lawn or meadow if you drive across it in muddy conditions!

Pete

 

[narcnh]

I bought chains for my 7800 this year and they made a huge difference on my snowy, steep, hardpack drive. Also bought them for the front, but couldn't get them to stay on and the clearance to the ball joints was minimal, so, rather than screw around with them in the middle of winter, I just left them off. Would have been nice to have them on occasion when plowing, as the front tires tend to slide, when the bucket fills up. But, overall the tractor handled fine without them.

My recommendation is to start with a rear set first, and see how it goes. If the result isn't satisfactory, then consider the front chains.

 

[Freds]

Thanks for all the replies, guys. Sorry about not mentioning the tires are R4's, I thought it was in my profile, but I see it isn't. I'll have to get that updated.
The drive is flat, but when the snow builds up on the blade or FEL, I want to get a little futher without slipping, not to mention the ice a lot of us experienced this past winter. It did a great job, I just want to make things a little easier and I figured less slipping would be better. I did get it stuck once too (not quite like that attachment!) by pushing the snow a little too far into the yard to make room for more. A little more bite and I might not have had to clean off the Durango.

The mud isn't really mud until you sink into it. It's an old cow pasture that I could hardly drive through last year it was so wet. A lot of standing water. After reading some of your experiences I think the chains might have made me feel more secure. It felt like I floated my way through it and I could hardly steer. I left some 6-8" ruts and a little more bite might have worked better here, too as long as I kept an easy throttle.

Thanks again. I think I'll go for a set all around to help with the steering.

Fred

 

[rambler]

My experience is with ag tires. Chains will only make a bigger mess in mud, don't waste your time. With industrial tread, perhaps they help, but if they are making a difference, you probably shouldn't be there to begin with. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif If you have turfs, you are trying to float over the top; chains will dig in & sink you, and then you are stuck because you don't have enough grip to push the mud aside & work your way down to solid ground.

For snow & ice, it is most common to see them on the rear wheels, but if you have problems steering putting them on front might be better. I would consult with a dealer before putting them on all 4, as that could overstress the powertrain. Some brands frown on this. A different solution to 4 chains is to properly weight the axle that has chains on it. Getting traction in snow & ice is about getting weight on small points of friction, not adding more & more points. I think manufaturers would prefer you moving in that direction.


Ag tires are designed the way they are because you can't get traction on soft mud. The bars move the soft muck out to the side, as your wheels hunt down deeper for solid dirt - often the sub-soil layer. If the ground is unsolid muck real deep, you will dig down until the frame is sitting in the mud. (Get out of a combine like that & scratch your head wondering what to do.... Been there, done that.) You will notice an ag tire in mud barely moves in reverse, because the lugs pull the soft mud up underneith. Zero traction.

Industrial tires are a compromise of toughness & low profile lugs. If you have these tires, you've stated you do not want to operate in deep mud. You made that choice. Chains might help wipe mud away from the tire, but they are not really adding traction. The chains are more of a bandaid than a solution to mud.

If you have turf tires, you went for floatation. The only way to get over mud with these is to add more rubber surface area - wider tires, or duals. Chains will probably sink you faster in mud than without. You have a floating tire, not a gripping tire. once you cut a rut, you are in trouble. You need to float over the top.

Each tire type serves a purpose, and if you really want to operate in mud frequently, the best bet is to get the right tire. I would not rely upon chains to help me in mud. They do not supply the tread pattern you need to help operate in mud.

Now on ice & snow, you need the hard point penetration to catch on the slippery surface, and chains will help a _lot_ on turfs & industrial tires, and the propper chains that stay on top of the bar lugs will help a lot on ag tires.

It's the best tool for the job thing - using chains in mud means something was wrong from the start. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Look at what you are starting with, and try to help that tool do it's job. Don't try to make the tool behave in a way it was not built to behave. It's a real tuff battle that way. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

--->Paul