4630 5o hr service this weekend. Tips?

[hsvhobbit]

Well, I've finally hit the 50 hr mark on my 4630HST and it's time to do the first service. Am planning on heading by the 'bota dealer this afternoon to pick up the 15 gal of SUDT for the HST and front axel. Would like to use a synthetic motor oil, does anyone have recommendations for an easy to find one, I need 10w-30 or 10W-40. OOPS almost forgot I'll have to pick up the hydraulic filters there also. Book says just clean/flush the fuel filter.

Got a couple of grease cartridges for my gun so I figure I'm in good shape there.

Was planning on using a washtub when I drain the hydro fluid due to the huge quantity of it. What does everyone else use?

Any general hints as to how to make this quicker/easier/less messy (other than let the dealer do it)? Any 'gotcha's' or tips to follow that ya'll have learned?

Sure will appreciate any help ya'll can give.

 

[silverking]

Book says just clean/flush the fuel filter.

Was planning on using a washtub when I drain the hydro fluid due to the huge quantity of it.

Sure will appreciate any help ya'll can give.

For what its worth I have 4630 gst and the "book" says nothing about fuel filter anything at 50 hours and only says to change the hydraulic filter, not the fluid.

Good luck.

 

[john_bud]

Hobbit,

The 50 hr service is a snap. That is if you have 3-4 extra empty 5 gal buckets! If not, you can get some from your dealer or some resturants will have them. You do need a place to put the old fluid! Take off the filters first and let the system drain some out. Then the plug to drain the case. Don't forget to check/clean the screen.

On the engine oil, I would use 15w40 diesel grade oil. Syn will be in the 5w40 grade. DON'T buy gas engine oil for your diesel engine. They are different.

 

[N80]

DON'T buy gas engine oil for your diesel engine. They are different.

Holy cow! I had no idea. My L4400 is running on regular old motor oil right now.

Hobbit, my L4400 will not clear the top of a 5 gallon bucket so I did use a washtub. Once filled the wash tub is too heavy to pick up and move. I used a coffee can to dip it out, putting the used fluid into the empty 5 gallon buckets. On my tractor, the hydraulic fluid fill hole is a bit hard to get to. I used a funnel with a long flexible neck and it worked fine. A piece of hose on the end of the funnel works fine too.

If you've never handled hydraulic fluid in 5 gallon buckets, pour with the spout in the up position, not down. In the down position it glops out all over the place.

For the front axle you will need to jack it up (or carefully use loader) and remove the wheels. If you don't do this, the oil spills out against the tire and runs all over the place. Tilt the axle back and forth while emptying.

 

[hsvhobbit]

Thanks for the tip on the 5 gal can's. No, I've never had to use one before and I'd have certainly done it the wrong way.

I'll have to jack up the front axel? Humm, I didn't realize that. Am not really set up for that so I'll have to look at that some. Thanks for the hint though. I'd have guessed that it was just a matter of pulling the drain and fill plugs and letting it run out.

 

[Marcussen]

I would recomend Rottela T Synthetic diesel oil in a 5W-40. Thats a good 40 weight oil that flows good cold, and it is a diesel oil (CI4+) and a gas oil (SL) so you can use it in all your vehicles. Locally it's $16-20 a gallon.

 

[N80]

Thanks for the tip on the 5 gal can's. No, I've never had to use one before and I'd have certainly done it the wrong way.

I'll have to jack up the front axel? Humm, I didn't realize that. Am not really set up for that so I'll have to look at that some. Thanks for the hint though. I'd have guessed that it was just a matter of pulling the drain and fill plugs and letting it run out.

Well, fortunately someone told me about how to pour from them too. I even tested it, they were right.

You don't have to jack up the fronmt end, but if you don't, it will be almost impossible to collect the fluid in anything. You also need to be able to tilt the axle side to side to get as much fluid out as possible. You can jack it up with the loader but you should support it somewhere with some cribbing or jack stands in case the loader leaks down or fails. (I did not support mine but was very careful not to let myself or anyone else get into a position where they could get hurt if the loader failed....not recommending it though.)

I do not have my manual at hand but I don't recall anything about using 'diesel' motor oil. Can anyone clarify?

 

[hsvhobbit]

Is Mobil 1 a good oil to use in the 'bota? I looked on the bottle and it's got the diesel rating of CF and claims to be suitable for diesels. According to my manual all it calls for is oil thats got a rating of CD, CE or CF so in THEORY it should be ok...or am I misreading things. Wouldn't be the first time.

Went by the dealer this afternoon and picked up the filters and SUDT so if I get straight on the oil I outta be in good shape. FWIW Bill for 15 gal of SUDT, fuel, oil, hyd and HST filters came to $384 out the door

Didn't get 5 Gal cans, the hydro fluid came in 5 gal buckets, no worries about 'glugging' but boy is it gonna be easy to spill a LOT of money on the ground if one slips. LOL

 

[Marcussen]

I would only use a diesel rated oil in a diesel engine.
My manual calls for CF, CD, or CE with Low suplhur diesel use CF-4 or CG-4 oil. The CF, CD, and CE are old specification and are designed for high sulphur diesel. Most synthetic diesel oils will meet all those requirements. Just make sure the API symbol letters start with a C since that for diesel if it start with an S it's for a gas engine. (C for compression, S for spark) CI 4 plus is the newest specification.

 

[_RaT_]

Well, I've finally hit the 50 hr mark on my 4630HST and it's time to do the first service. Am planning on heading by the 'bota dealer this afternoon to pick up the 15 gal of SUDT for the HST and front axel. Would like to use a synthetic motor oil, does anyone have recommendations for an easy to find one, I need 10w-30 or 10W-40. OOPS almost forgot I'll have to pick up the hydraulic filters there also. Book says just clean/flush the fuel filter.

Got a couple of grease cartridges for my gun so I figure I'm in good shape there.

Was planning on using a washtub when I drain the hydro fluid due to the huge quantity of it. What does everyone else use?

Any general hints as to how to make this quicker/easier/less messy (other than let the dealer do it)? Any 'gotcha's' or tips to follow that ya'll have learned?

Sure will appreciate any help ya'll can give.

The loader will easily pick up the front axle. Get the tractor warmed up well first and everything will flow easily. As mentioned, do the filters first. I simply have a 5 gallon bucket(s) around and use those to catch the fluid. After the filters, drain the highest drain plugs, in all, I think there are four for the tranny and rear end. Don't worry about not having enough room in a 5 gallon bucket. When you see the oil getting near the top of the bucket it is very simple to reinsert the drain plug. You get a small amount of oil on you but it is so clean that it wipes off easily. I have a roll of paper towels nearby. I personally would stick with regular 15W40 diesel oil on the engine until the next oil change. After that, its what you want. The folks at Redline Oil told me to work the engine in with what the manual requirements were for the first 100 hundred hours or so (that was a couple of months for me). After 50 hours, the fuel filter should be very clean and frankly, your more likely to get the injectors clogged by poor cleaning techniques then a dirty filter. Best of all, find a place to take all that practically new hydraulic fluid.

 

[john_bud]

Holy cow! I had no idea. My L4400 is running on regular old motor oil right now.
{snip}

For the front axle you will need to jack it up (or carefully use loader) and remove the wheels. If you don't do this, the oil spills out against the tire and runs all over the place. Tilt the axle back and forth while emptying.

You don't NEED to take off the wheels or tilt. It will drain just slower. Use a wide mouth short funnel to catch the oil.

Yes use 15w40 summers and 5w40 winters. Shell and Moble both have excellent products. Diesel oil will keep sludge from forming in the engine by suspending the soot (why the oil turns black). Gas oil won't suspend it as well. There are other additives to resist breakdown, acid and other stuff in diesel oil that are too costly to put in a gas oil where the engine dosn't work hard enough to benefit.

jb

 

[N80]

You don't NEED to take off the wheels or tilt. It will drain just slower.

Well, I disagree, at least about the tilt. I did not jack it up or tilt it at first. I opened it up and let it drain until it quit. Jacked it up, tilted side to side, and got a _lot_ more fluid out. I doubt getting that last bit of fluid out is critical, but if you want to get the most out, you'll have to tilt it a few times.

As far as removing the wheels, you're right, you don't "NEED" to. But on my L4400, if you didn't, you got a mess. Been there, done that.

 

[N80]

Yes use 15w40 summers and 5w40 winters. Shell and Moble both have excellent products. Diesel oil will keep sludge from forming in the engine by suspending the soot (why the oil turns black). Gas oil won't suspend it as well. There are other additives to resist breakdown, acid and other stuff in diesel oil that are too costly to put in a gas oil where the engine dosn't work hard enough to benefit.

I've been running automotive motor oil in mine for about 25 hours now. I'm surprised I missed this in the manual, I'm usual pretty careful about this sort of thing. I doubt I've done any damage and the oil I used might have had the approriate rating but I have no idea what it was at this point. But, oil is cheap and the oil change is simple so I'll put the right stuff in it next weekend. Wonder if I need to put a new filter in it too?

 

[hsvhobbit]

Got it done. Mostly.

What an experience! Started at noon, finished up around 5:00, Spent a LOT of time looking for all the hydro drain plugs. 3 were easy to find, 1 I never did find. Only got 10 gal out of what should've been 11.4, so I figure the extra fluid is where-ever the other plug is.

Motor oil was/is a snap to change, likewise the oil filter.

Hydrostat filter was a booger to change, ended up having to use a 24" pipe wrench to break it loose, that baby was TIGHT.

Took ages to put the hydro fluid in, I had a flexible, long funnel but the hose was a fairly small diameter and I spent forever putting the fluid in...and those 5 gal can's...darn they get heavy.

Greasing the front axel pivot was worrisome. Front fitting went great, rear one didn't have a drain plug so I pumped a LOT of grease in, and hope it's OK.

All I lack doing is changing out the fuel filter but that can wait a day or two, got things I need to be doing with the tractor.

Hope SUDT is good for the skin, cause I got a healthy covering of it. LOL

Glad it's over...

Lesson's learned...I small electric pump to move hydro fluid would be awefully nice. Get a couple of small pails so I can do several drains at the same time. Bet that next time I can get everything down to maybe an hour or so...But I gotta figure out where that darn 4th hydro drain plug is!

 

[_RaT_]

Got it done. Mostly.

What an experience! Started at noon, finished up around 5:00, Spent a LOT of time looking for all the hydro drain plugs. 3 were easy to find, 1 I never did find. Only got 10 gal out of what should've been 11.4, so I figure the extra fluid is where-ever the other plug is.

Motor oil was/is a snap to change, likewise the oil filter.

Hydrostat filter was a booger to change, ended up having to use a 24" pipe wrench to break it loose, that baby was TIGHT.

Took ages to put the hydro fluid in, I had a flexible, long funnel but the hose was a fairly small diameter and I spent forever putting the fluid in...and those 5 gal can's...darn they get heavy.

Greasing the front axel pivot was worrisome. Front fitting went great, rear one didn't have a drain plug so I pumped a LOT of grease in, and hope it's OK.

All I lack doing is changing out the fuel filter but that can wait a day or two, got things I need to be doing with the tractor.

Hope SUDT is good for the skin, cause I got a healthy covering of it. LOL

Glad it's over...

Lesson's learned...I small electric pump to move hydro fluid would be awefully nice. Get a couple of small pails so I can do several drains at the same time. Bet that next time I can get everything down to maybe an hour or so...But I gotta figure out where that darn 4th hydro drain plug is!

Double check on the fuel filter, I don't think you need to change it out. I personally would leave it. 50 hours is so short of a time that very little fuel has flown through that filter to dirty it up. I used a large funnel that had a long neck and poured the hydro fluid in very quickly. Are there 4 plugs? I was looking the HST tranmission break down and it shows 1.

 

[hsvhobbit]

Double check on the fuel filter, I don't think you need to change it out. I personally would leave it. 50 hours is so short of a time that very little fuel has flown through that filter to dirty it up. I used a large funnel that had a long neck and poured the hydro fluid in very quickly. Are there 4 plugs? I was looking the HST tranmission break down and it shows 1.

The manual says I can just clean the filter but since they only cost around $3, it's much easier to just replace it. The see-thru filter bowl is pretty cruddy so I'll do that fairly soon.

According to my manual I've got 4 drain plugs for the tranny and hydrostat. One at the inboard bottom side of each rear axel housing and then another big obvious one and one other behind that...it was the 'one behind that' that I couldn't find.

Next time this little chore comes around I'll make it a point to get a funnel with the largest ID I can find that'll fit the opening and it'll need to be maybe 2 feet long.

It was surprising when I took off the hydraulic filter to see all the crud on the outside of the 'inner seal' if that's what it is.

 

[_RaT_]

The manual says I can just clean the filter but since they only cost around $3, it's much easier to just replace it. The see-thru filter bowl is pretty cruddy so I'll do that fairly soon.

According to my manual I've got 4 drain plugs for the tranny and hydrostat. One at the inboard bottom side of each rear axel housing and then another big obvious one and one other behind that...it was the 'one behind that' that I couldn't find.

Next time this little chore comes around I'll make it a point to get a funnel with the largest ID I can find that'll fit the opening and it'll need to be maybe 2 feet long.

It was surprising when I took off the hydraulic filter to see all the crud on the outside of the 'inner seal' if that's what it is.

I'll have to go out and look at mine. Its funny because I never remember it being an issue, but I may be confusing myself with my Kubota L48 I had before my L3830.

I did change my fuel filter at 400 hours, it was fairly cruddy. Take extreme care to keep everything clean when swapping it out.

 

[rdsaustintx]

Congratulations!

I lurked here for months prior to 50hr on my little BX. This forum is GREAT for this sort of stuff. Mine took 2 hours total. Just 3 notes:

Lowes sells a cheap, shallow bucket, sort of like a busboy container, that slips under very nicely.

If you have a fuel bowl on your filter, clean it out. But if they are cartridges I seriously doubt you need changing at 50 hours. I changed mine at 300 and they still looked serviceable. I am VERY **** about clean fuel and use conditioner religiously though.

N80, your avatar ROCKS

Russell in Texas

 

[JRobyn]

Hi guys,

My BIL asked me to help with the 50 hr on his new 4630 a few weeks ago. When we had the "how to get all that UDT in the little hard-to-reach fill hole" issue, we tried using the Han-D-Pump that we use for fueling (rinsed it out with some of the old UDT first). 5 Gal bucket on top of the tool box behind the seat. Worked terrific! It takes a lot of pumps, maybe 1-1-1/2 cups of fluid per stroke, but got it right in there with no spills and no need to hold the bucket! Only took a few minutes. I think that the flow was extra quick due to some siphoning action.