445 X-torque

[stormpetrel]

Hi folks,

My 445 runs cruddy, loses RPMs and power after a few seconds, seems like it's bogging down. The fuel is good, and fresh, I took the air cleaner off (for just a second) and it didn't get better, the spark plug looks fine. The saw is not yet two years old, I have taken down and cut up a few large trees and a bunch of smaller stuff around the property. I like the saw fine, it works great for what I need to do with it. The bogging down issue has me stumped. I have no idea where the fuel filter is, or if it may be a filtration problem. So...any thoughts or ideas? Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[Treemonkey1000]

How sharp is your chain? Fuel filter is usually bobbing around in the gas tank. Is your oiler working. It sounds more like an air leak in the carb to head boots. If you pull off the air cleaner and start it up. Then apply pressure to the carb in different directions to see if the saw changes rpms or how it runs. And a very common thing is the gas may have sat in the diaphragm in the carb and it is gunked up. You might luck out and put a decent portion of Sea Foam in the gas mix and run it. That might clean it out.

 

[stormpetrel]

How sharp is your chain? Fuel filter is usually bobbing around in the gas tank. Is your oiler working. It sounds more like an air leak in the carb to head boots. If you pull off the air cleaner and start it up. Then apply pressure to the carb in different directions to see if the saw changes rpms or how it runs. And a very common thing is the gas may have sat in the diaphragm in the carb and it is gunked up. You might luck out and put a decent portion of Sea Foam in the gas mix and run it. That might clean it out.

Thanks for the reply! I keep the chains sharp, the oiler is working. The saw did sit in the garage last winter with fuel in the tank and engine, but has worked well until very recently. I'll try the sea foam, and change the fuel filter. What concerns me is that the saw reaches good cutting RPM and does not bog down from cutting, but just at random times. Sometimes the engine quits and runs good again upon restarting. Until it bogs down again in the middle of cutting...

 

[Treemonkey1000]

Junk floating around in the carb diaphragm would be the best guess. If you are mechanical at all you can take the carb off and clean it out or get a kit to replace some of those parts. Usually it is more difficult to get the handle and linkage off and back on correctly than the carb itself. Especially if it sat with this nasty stuff they sell to us as gas anymore

 

[xyz123]

Have had several come in with same symptoms. Most just needed carb adjustments. Which will require you to trim the plastic stops off H at least and sometimes L too. Some new fuel line, some carb kits. I would start with carb adjust and just work your way up. Before carb check and make sure your fuel filter is attached and clean.

 

[Bluegill2]

Like xyz said, carb adjust would be my first check, then fuel line and filter.

 

[stormpetrel]

Thanks folks. Did I read that there may be a special tool for carb adjustment? Does the carb adjust by screws? I haven't really looked at the saw, have been away for Thanksgiving and just returned tonight. As always, any help is appreciated. Trim plastic stops? I don't get the reference. Maybe I will when I look at the saw in the morning.
I have been happy with this saw, the only other chainsaw I have ever had was a 35 cc Poulan. Having the 445 for a while, I am ready to step up, and have been looking around for a 346xp or 550xp. I have one part of my property that is heavily treed, I want to thin it out considerably, and thought it would be nice to spend LESS time.....and have more fun.

 

[Bluegill2]

The plastic stops limit the carb adjustment screws, sometimes they need to be cut off to get more adjustment. Not sure if this model needs a special tool to adjust the screws, some do, most take a regular screw driver.

A 346xp, or 550xp would be a Huge upgrade!

 

[stormpetrel]

The plastic stops limit the carb adjustment screws, sometimes they need to be cut off to get more adjustment. Not sure if this model needs a special tool to adjust the screws, some do, most take a regular screw driver.

A 346xp, or 550xp would be a Huge upgrade!

I'm really looking forward to it! I love the idea that the saws weigh just around the same, a friend has a 455 Rancher and it's heavier than I like. My 445 has an 18" bar. Do you think the 346/550 will be good with an 18" as well? I was wondering if I should go with 16" to keep weight and maneuverability good.

 

[Treemonkey1000]

Those saws will run the 18" bars no problem. Depending on how often you run into 18" diameter or better would help you figure out whether to use the 16" bar. That would be a lot of engine for a 16" bar. The saw I use the most all day is my top handle Husky with a 16" bar. That is because it is lighter and doesn't wear me out dragging it around. Another thing to consider is if you are leaning over cutting up a lot of stuff. The longer bar will give you a little more reach without having to lean over and make your cuts.. Clear as mud? :confused2:

 

[stormpetrel]

Those saws will run the 18" bars no problem. Depending on how often you run into 18" diameter or better would help you figure out whether to use the 16" bar. That would be a lot of engine for a 16" bar. The saw I use the most all day is my top handle Husky with a 16" bar. That is because it is lighter and doesn't wear me out dragging it around. Another thing to consider is if you are leaning over cutting up a lot of stuff. The longer bar will give you a little more reach without having to lean over and make your cuts.. Clear as mud? :confused2:

Being an old guy with a bad back........18" (or even 20") it is!

 

[Treemonkey1000]

Being an old guy with a bad back........18" (or even 20") it is!

I am getting up there myself so I think about that stuff. The flip side of that is a longer bar gives you more chance for kickback. Wear chaps or saw pants. Getting tired lugging around a longer bar happens. Take breaks, drink water.

 

[stormpetrel]

The saw is running as good as it ever has! All it took was a good dose of Sea Foam (which to be honest, I had never even heard of) and within ten minutes there was no bogging down. Now I will use it a bit, put a new bar on it, and sell it!!! 346xp/550xp here we come!!!

The 445 has an 18" bar, so I'd feel good sticking with that, or going to 20".

As always...this site has saved my bacon, and let me do it the simplest and least expensive way. I am very glad to be able to get the benefit of everyone's experience. Thanks!!!!

 

[milkman]

Good idea on the upgrade, 346XP is the best, most fun to run saw I've ever had hold of. A couple of years ago, I ordered mine and when it arrived at the dealer, it came with a 20" bar. I wanted the longer bar for the extra reach, because I'm an old cuss also. The balance of the saw with 20" was a no go for me, too nose heavy, so I had them switch to an 18". I still wanted the 20", but something lighter than what come on the saw, so I ordered a Narrow Kerf version from Baileys and that works good. It's so much fun that I sold 10 ricks of my wood just so I'd have room to cut some more.

 

[Bluegill2]

I'm really looking forward to it! I love the idea that the saws weigh just around the same, a friend has a 455 Rancher and it's heavier than I like. My 445 has an 18" bar. Do you think the 346/550 will be good with an 18" as well? I was wondering if I should go with 16" to keep weight and maneuverability good.

I have 16" on one 346 and 18" on the other. I like the weight/balance better with 16" but like the reach of the 18".

 

[arrow]

I'll play devils advocate here. If you like your 445, I do not see a reason for getting rid of it especialy if its running well. To be honest, there are many "chainsaw nuts" lurking here and I admit to being one. Just look at some of the saws are owned by one guy. I will also make another suggestion. If you are bent on getting a new saw, the 346 is a "peaky" saw excellent for building quick rpm's for limbing. The 550 is a step above the 346 but is not governed in its running properties as the older saws are. These newer Huskies have a "brain" that learns the saw usage. If I were not a "specialty user" and interested in just one ,nice all around home owner saw that sees the amount of use as you described, I'd get a 353 which is a detuned 346 but with a wider torque band which in my mind is better suited to the occasional user. One of these with an 18" bar will be all the saw you'll ever need and about a hundred bucks cheaper than the 346. and what? $250 cheaper than the 550. ( I don't know what the 550's cost. My saw guy has one with a $650 price tag on it but he could be slamming it for all I know)

 

[Bluegill2]

550xp generally run around $550-$580.

 

[stormpetrel]

550xp generally run around $550-$580.

I just ordered a 550XP for $534.99 delivered(from eBay). It has a 20" bar; a little longer than I would have liked, but there is the old-guy bad back thing to think about! Should have it by the end of next week. And I put the 445 on Craigslist...someone's coming to pick it up tomorrow, with a "back-up" buyer waiting in the wings.

I only want one saw, so it has to be both (a) light, and (b) powerful. I did a lot of reading up on Husky saws, and thought that the 550's autotune feature has been around just long enough to prove itself. I am looking forward to using the new saw on a stand of trees I need gone. I will post up the results once I run a few tanks of fuel through the saw and get a feel for how it does.

 

[milkman]

Well done!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Bluegill2]

Yes, very well done!!!