ponytug
Super Member
FWIW: The throttle cable handle has a friction plate with an adjustment in it on mine. (Under the dash)
All the best, Peter
All the best, Peter
Ah! I might have seen that once before but it was long time ago and so many things today cloud my feeble brain…
ponytug
Super Member
Believe me, I know the feeling.Ah! I might have seen that once before but it was long time ago and so many things today cloud my feeble brain…
We have club mugs available on Amazon and other fine retailers.
m5040
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2008
- Messages
- 991
- Location
- CT
- Tractor
- Kubota M6040 L2250, JohnDeere 310D, Ford 841 Elenco, Ford 961, Trapmaster, PT180 w/LM bucket and 45" brush cutter, PT1430 Deutz w/grapple bucket, Antonio Carraro Tigrecar 6500. John Deere 5300. Former owned Steiner 430 max, Goldoni REV Maxter 7
The throttles appear to be on the inexpensive side. I have to do mine also and have put it off cause it still works most of the time. I don't like to run at full throttle, and the throttle holds better at midrange RPM unless I hit with hand as I steer.
I was wondering if you could sneak a wrench through the slot and tighten a nut at the pivot??
I should get serious and at least look at that, but its COLD.
Any chance you have a noncontact thermometer? They used to sell for close to $20 at Harbor Freight. It may help you to check the temps of each wheel motor and compare to each other. Looking for a hot(ter) one that indicates bypassing oil.
I was wondering if you could sneak a wrench through the slot and tighten a nut at the pivot??
I should get serious and at least look at that, but its COLD.
Any chance you have a noncontact thermometer? They used to sell for close to $20 at Harbor Freight. It may help you to check the temps of each wheel motor and compare to each other. Looking for a hot(ter) one that indicates bypassing oil.
“…sneaking a wrench…” now that, I’m not sure of. My first thought is probably not from what I remember last time I had that top tunnel/mount plate off…I’m thinking awfully tight space but could be wrong. I think I’d rather just go ahead and pull it off and have another closer look—the choke handle keeps sticking after a while of sitting so I’m sure it needs attention as well. And yes, it’s COLD…too danged cold LOL. I don’t do bad with it when I finally decide I have to go out in it and shovel snow or the like. Then, I get heated up and have to start peeling clothes.
AND…how about this for luck—I just today received a laser thermometer from UPS!
I’ll give that a try soon. AFTER it gets less COLD. 
ponytug
Super Member
As @m5040 mentions, with a thin wrench I can do it on mine from the top, but I have always done it by reaching up from underneath, and looking through the slot. It may take some fiddling because if you get it too tight, moving the throttle is a wrestling match. Not hard, just fiddly. I like to clean, grease, and then adjust, as the slot is an invitation for dust and debris to settle into the sliding mechanism, and in my experience, it is always filthy.
All the best,
Peter
All the best,
Peter
Dang!…had to fire it up last two days to clear off snow…Brrrrrr COLD! I’m OVER this snow crap So I just had to contend with constantly pushing up the throttle to get done and get back to WARM and thaw out my frozen toes
Maybe we’ll get a warm spell and I can dig into this again.
Again, very sluggish moving but I believe it’s more in reverse along with the noise.
That swivel joint on top of the pump area—it seems to me to be good, in that from its center resting position if slightly pushed one way or the other it starts to have effect…in other words don’t appear to have any slop there. Could it be that over time the whole system from pedals up could be out of alignment? As in right or forward pedal has more travel result than the left reverse pedal? Plus, I’m starting to think the noise (loud, shrill rubbing/grinding, constant and more intense the more the pedal is pushed) when reversing might be coming from the pump area. Doesn’t do it when I had it jacked up all around but when I’m in the seat and moving it, I hear it—just can’t get my ears that far back there when I’m operating
So I just had to contend with constantly pushing up the throttle to get done and get back to WARM and thaw out my frozen toes Maybe we’ll get a warm spell and I can dig into this again. Again, very sluggish moving but I believe it’s more in reverse along with the noise.
That swivel joint on top of the pump area—it seems to me to be good, in that from its center resting position if slightly pushed one way or the other it starts to have effect…in other words don’t appear to have any slop there. Could it be that over time the whole system from pedals up could be out of alignment? As in right or forward pedal has more travel result than the left reverse pedal? Plus, I’m starting to think the noise (loud, shrill rubbing/grinding, constant and more intense the more the pedal is pushed) when reversing might be coming from the pump area. Doesn’t do it when I had it jacked up all around but when I’m in the seat and moving it, I hear it—just can’t get my ears that far back there when I’m operating
m5040
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2008
- Messages
- 991
- Location
- CT
- Tractor
- Kubota M6040 L2250, JohnDeere 310D, Ford 841 Elenco, Ford 961, Trapmaster, PT180 w/LM bucket and 45" brush cutter, PT1430 Deutz w/grapple bucket, Antonio Carraro Tigrecar 6500. John Deere 5300. Former owned Steiner 430 max, Goldoni REV Maxter 7
Just and FYI, if the engine RPMs are too low for the driveline load, they all make a hydraulic wine noise from the pump that gets louder the more you push the treadle pedal down.
Hmmmm…interesting. Best I can recall I don’t think I’ve had many occasions of running it at low rpms—it’s usually cranked up…at least all the times I’ve heard it so far. I’m gonna try in the next few days to get some video of it when it’s happening.
ponytug
Super Member
Depending on the control system you have, they all can go out of alignment.Dang!…had to fire it up last two days to clear off snow…Brrrrrr COLD! I’m OVER this snow crap
Again, very sluggish moving but I believe it’s more in reverse along with the noise.
That swivel joint on top of the pump area—it seems to me to be good, in that from its center resting position if slightly pushed one way or the other it starts to have effect…in other words don’t appear to have any slop there. Could it be that over time the whole system from pedals up could be out of alignment? As in right or forward pedal has more travel result than the left reverse pedal? Plus, I’m starting to think the noise (loud, shrill rubbing/grinding, constant and more intense the more the pedal is pushed) when reversing might be coming from the pump area. Doesn’t do it when I had it jacked up all around but when I’m in the seat and moving it, I hear it—just can’t get my ears that far back there when I’m operating
As @m5040 mentioned a certain amount of whining at low oil temperatures is to be expected to happen due to higher oil viscosity, but try to minimize it by letting the oil warm up. I believe that @MossRoad starts his and lets it run for a while (15 min?) while he does some hand shoveling. If your pump is not in trouble, the whining sound is the oil cavitation as it is being pump and the cavitation is very hard on, and damaging to, surfaces.
All the best,
Peter
