4200 engine rebuild

[mbis]

I would. Not sure what the pump looks like but if there was an opportunity for internal leaks then the pump just cavitayes and doesn't pump. You need to pull the thermostat to flush the block.

 

[mike48130]

How many hours on the tractor?

 

[mbis]

View attachment 540968

17000

 

[mike48130]

17000 or 1700? Either way I would replace it. You can try to put the plate back on and seal with rtv.

 

[mbis]

17000

Replace the waterpump?

 

[mbis]

Replace the waterpump?

Or put this one back on?

 

[mike48130]

How long have you had the tractor? How many of the 17000 hrs did you put on?

 

[mbis]

Or put this one back on?

Hard to tell I have had it 3 years probably 2500 hours I put on it

 

[mike48130]

Then I would replace it. For $200 it's worth it.

 

[mbis]

Then I would replace it. For $200 it's worth it.

Ok I've done everything else might as well

 

[mike48130]

Do you drive that thing to work? Lots of hours. With that many hrs i would double check for air bubbles and flush it good.

 

[mbis]

Do you drive that thing to work? Lots of hours. With that many hrs i would double check for air bubbles and flush it good.

I am on 225 acres I am always out on it. My road is a mile long

 

[mike48130]

I still say a good flush and replace the pump.

 

[mike48130]

When the belt is slipping get a IR temp gauge and see what pulley is hot. If it is the alternator I would suspect you have some sort of short that is causing the field to be on full at crank. How is that air pump driven? When it won't crank loosen the belt and see if it starts. Then check each pulley to see what is tight. Might be tight only under a load of a bearing is going and binding when a side load is applied but I would think you would feel some roughness. If you think it is the alternator you can pull the connector to the back as well to se if that changes anything.

 

[mike48130]

When the belt is slipping get a IR temp gauge and see what pulley is hot. If it is the alternator I would suspect you have some sort of short that is causing the field to be on full at crank. How is that air pump driven? When it won't crank loosen the belt and see if it starts. Then check each pulley to see what is tight. Might be tight only under a load of a bearing is going and binding when a side load is applied but I would think you would feel some roughness. If you think it is the alternator you can pull the connector to the back as well to se if that changes anything.

Sorry went under wrong post.

 

[beenthere]

Mike
I think you can delete a post that is in error..

 

[steviep]

When I rebuilt my engine I took the radiator off and took it to a local radiator shop . They flushed it , dipped it and cleaned the outside. Repainted and pressure tested it for last than a 100 dollars. Well worth the money. Also easier to work on the water pump with it removed.

 

[larboc]

If you are sure that the temp gauge/sender is working correctly (confirm with IR temp gun on t-stat housing), the water pump is spinning, coolant is moving, and there are no bubbles in the radiator cap, cooling system isn't clogged, and it isn't being overloaded, then it isn't going to overheat. One of those must be the issue.

Pull the t-stat housing and lower hoses and blast it with a garden hose in and out of everywhere, make sure everything is open. 17,000 hours is a lot, possible that the trans or a hydro pump has an issue and is overloading the engine?

 

[texasranger556]

Wow, 17k hours comes out to about 20 hours per week EVERY week since new. That's impressive!

At the rate I'm going it will be another 10 years before mine hits 1,000 hrs.