4110 Final Drive

[David Berglund]

So basically almost all removable parts has been removed from the rear end and the 3p hitch housing was painted first. Afterwards I masked a few bits and continued with the aluminum tranny cases using the same paint as previously uses on the final drive housings.

Next up is to try to work whith the torch to get the ball joints on the list arms loose since they have rusted stuck badly. I will try to do this on site since I otherwise need to fabricate some puller tool to get the arms of their spline where it is, surprise, also stuck.

I will also try to prioritize all parts for electrolyte surface treatment before Thursday to make their weekly pickup.

Soon the most boring part is behind and I can start reassembly.

 

[David Berglund]

The pins and sleeves for the 3pt according to my question a few days ago were rusted beyond saving. One was also so badly rusted to the lift arm ball joint I had to drill it hollow to be able to pound it out.

So fabricated some new ones this afternoon re-using the hooks from the old.

 

[David Berglund]

Question of today...

What is the lowest hole in the FEL mounting bracket for? I would have guessed a rod could preferably be installed between left and right side as it would greatly improve strength on the mount but it seems a strait rod would hit the front wheel drive axle.

Am I missing a piece that should be here, and if so, anyone have any pictures to share?

 

[kennyd]

As you suspected, your missing the cross-brace David:



MOUNTING FRAMES
Cart key PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. 410 REMARKS
1 AW29073 Frame 1 X LH
2 19M7835 Screw 10 X M10 X 35
3 AW29072 Frame 1 X RH
4 14M7300 Flange Nut 4 X M20
5 W44445 Rod 1 X (SUB W50795)
W50795 Rod 1 X
6 19M7403 Cap Screw 6 X M12 X 35
7 14M7275 Nut 6 X M12

 

[David Berglund]

Received some parts from surface treatment today. Some of them could have benefited from better preparations, but most seems really good. Lacks my batch of powder coat black's to be able to begin final re-assembly, but I will likely paint those parts in the beginning of next week. Feels good to be on the right way again though quite a few parts still needs to be blasted before painting.

 

[David Berglund]

A bit more progress made. Hoping to be able to finish the project by the end of next week but it might be a bit optimistic.

 

[David Berglund]

When i'm browsing this page on my computer (using Firefox) I can never see any of the pictures and when I click them i get an error message.

However through my Iphone there is no problem.

Anyone else experiencing this. I've tried to purge my cash but still the same.

 

[David Berglund]

Some more progress. Getting close now...

The green parts has been painted with RAL 6029 which is not the right color but that's what the powder coater carried. And since I will be wet painting all the green parts nonetheless in order to get matching color on the plastic and sheet metal parts I might as well have some green unserneath, rather than black or similar, so that future scratches won't show as much.

The wheels however is the right color and they came out really nice!

 

[kennyd]

Wow David, you coulda paid for a new machine by now and had your weekends free :laughing:

 

[David Berglund]

Perhaps I could Kenny. Though it is as it is with hobbies. Not everything is aboute money.

I have to confess though that this restoration has gone a bit out of proportion but it will be very nice once finished and I'm closing up on that goal.

All parts are now painted and repainted and I've begun final assembly.

 

[FreshRouteFarm]

What a project! It is looking great after all your work. I did a similar job on a 4110 but no where near as in depth or detailed as yours. Will be better than new when your done.

 

[David Berglund]

So more or less I'm finished with the restoration now. Only speedbump was the hazard light switch that was corroded beyond repair. Found it out when troubleshooting the turn lights that wasn't working and it seems the flasher relay was powered through that switch. Jumped it for now but I'm awaiting a new switch and everything will be in function.

It worked out great and I am beyond happy with my new tractor. Already received a lot of compliments on it from neighbors.

Here's some pics of it and also undertaking some first tasks for it.

 

[David Berglund]

After a couple of years of wonderful use of the tractor, it was time for a new axle related brakedown. I've put a few hundred hours on it, and only done regular maintenance and one welding of a broken parallell shaft for the steering, so the initial restoration really paid off.

Today however it was a bit less easy to do a quick-fix. Guess I'ts on me for using the FEL a bit to hard without proper rear ballast, so need to learn from that mistake. Half of the broken cross section area shows heavy rust, so it has probably had initial cracks prior to this.

I figure its the part LVU800249 I need to get. It looks somewhat different on the exploded view than the actual part, but can't be any other than that. So only need to find a US-supplier that ships overseas. It's insanely more expensive here.

 

[David Berglund]

OK, so allready I found some trouble.

It seems the part I thought would fit is actually not the same.

From the HAKO catalog (remember this was initially a Hakotrac (Yanmar) and not a JD (Yanmar) there is two different main versions to chose from. If i chose the first one, catalog is just like on John Deere. But if I chose the second one, I find exactly what my parts looks like. My power-steering cylinder is in front of the axle, not on the back at seems to be the case on JD.

Is there in fact two different versions on the JD version of this tractor as well?

Here how it looks on my tractor. Part #8 is what i need. Have any of you guys seen this version before?

 

[David Berglund]

Ok. Trouble again.

I bought locally the part mentioned above. Equivalent to $550 instead of $166 but what could I do. That problem solved and the tractor is running again.

However yesterday I ran with a cart full of boulders, approx 3500lbs in the hitch, and since I was running hard dirt road for a few km, I ran on high gear even if it was quite a load. I think this busted my hydro.

As of today, in high gear, it is very slow to gain rpm/speed and the pedal feels very hard to press down, and resists my pressing it rather than gradually following down.

Also even when I'm running flat hard road without load, I notice I can't get it to run maximum speed. If I push the pedal the final bit to the floor, it rather slows a bit and the engine looses rpm even with full throttle, so I assume it is building pressure in the hydro without managing to distribute it to the wheels/hydraulic motors properly.

My first quick-fix would be an oil change, but what is your opinion/thoughts on this?

Reading this thread from the beginning you will remember that this was a restore of a busted rear tranny to begin with, and there might have been already damage to the hydro which I've now worsened.

Have anyone restores the hydro on one of the these tractors with the Tuff-Torque tranny?