shovelrider
Silver Member
My buddies dad used it this yr. to do their garden. It needs 6 tines and some work, thinks it's either a Yanmar ys/rs 1200. Anyone know for sure? I can get it for $100, is it worth it ? thanx Jim
4' Tiller
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careyo63
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Should work! Looks like it either doesn't have the rear wheels or is not an option for that model. 100.00 bucks the Dr. Shaft worth half that.
California
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$100? When anything else you will see is $500 and up, why not?
I wouldn't use that to earn a living but for typical homeowner use I would just change the 90 wt gear oil (There's always water in there) and put it in service. See if it really needs those missing tines, or does sufficient work without them, before spending more money on it.
These things are near bulletproof. There is one part you need to check, and replace if needed: at the dumb end of the tine shaft, there's a ball bearing that will chew up the housing if it has rusted in place. It's simple to check, and cheap to replace with a standard sealed bearing.
You will likely conclude it is worth buying a set of tines and restoring it. Aside from that bearing and worn tines it should run for years with little attention.
You only need wheels if your tractor is underpowered, say under 15 hp, relative to the tiller. I needed them to use my tiller intended for 20 hp on my 15 hp (pto) tractor because it would dig too deep and bog down, didn't need the wheels for the 20 hp tractor.
That was about the last model that had wheels, they aren't needed when the tiller is matched to the tractor's hp.
I wouldn't use that to earn a living but for typical homeowner use I would just change the 90 wt gear oil (There's always water in there) and put it in service. See if it really needs those missing tines, or does sufficient work without them, before spending more money on it.
These things are near bulletproof. There is one part you need to check, and replace if needed: at the dumb end of the tine shaft, there's a ball bearing that will chew up the housing if it has rusted in place. It's simple to check, and cheap to replace with a standard sealed bearing.
You will likely conclude it is worth buying a set of tines and restoring it. Aside from that bearing and worn tines it should run for years with little attention.
You only need wheels if your tractor is underpowered, say under 15 hp, relative to the tiller. I needed them to use my tiller intended for 20 hp on my 15 hp (pto) tractor because it would dig too deep and bog down, didn't need the wheels for the 20 hp tractor.
That was about the last model that had wheels, they aren't needed when the tiller is matched to the tractor's hp.
OP
shovelrider
Silver Member
was thinking about using it behind my ym1700. In the garden, or to use in making a few passes for a deer plot. If tractor is too small, i have tha shibaura P21F 25hp 4x4. I would just leave it on tractor, and when needed it'll be hooked up ready to go. Rodger that, on checking bearings and change fluid 90wt. and found tines for around $7-$9 each. Thanx for advice going to pick it up tomorrow afternoon. Jim
careyo63
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clemsonfor
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I'd pay $100 for it easy esp if it remotely works?
boggen
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start spraying some BP blaster on stuff, over next couple days. to loosen it all up. for when you do wrap something up. or something happens. your not out there upside down with a cutting torch or grinder trying to get the nuts/bolts out.
might drop it into the ground and run a few minutes just to shin everything up and loose stuff up as well.
might drop it into the ground and run a few minutes just to shin everything up and loose stuff up as well.
boggen
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start spraying some BP blaster on stuff, over next couple days. to loosen it all up. for when you do wrap something up. or something happens. your not out there upside down with a cutting torch or grinder trying to get the nuts/bolts out.
might drop it into the ground and run a few minutes just to shin everything up and loose stuff up as well.
you might find it a pain to keep at a given depth, without any sort of sleds or gauge wheels for it. and be at the 3pt hitch lever constantly raising/lowering trying to maintain a certain depth and correct speed/MPH.
double check the "tines" rotate in correct direction (counter clockwise vs clockwise) it might be something. and result tiller not working like it should.
the PTO shaft is as old as the unit it looks like, and quick look there is no "shear bolt" let alone a slip clutch. you may need to get a new PTO shaft for tiller. if there is a belt on the side that can serve as a saftey device. if it is chain then look at PTO shaft with a shear bolt.
double check you do not need a new PTO shaft. different tractors can result in longer and/or shorter PTO shaft. a couple inches is a couple inches when dropped down into dirt and PTO shaft coming apart on you in a dangerous way.
might drop it into the ground and run a few minutes just to shin everything up and loose stuff up as well.
you might find it a pain to keep at a given depth, without any sort of sleds or gauge wheels for it. and be at the 3pt hitch lever constantly raising/lowering trying to maintain a certain depth and correct speed/MPH.
double check the "tines" rotate in correct direction (counter clockwise vs clockwise) it might be something. and result tiller not working like it should.
the PTO shaft is as old as the unit it looks like, and quick look there is no "shear bolt" let alone a slip clutch. you may need to get a new PTO shaft for tiller. if there is a belt on the side that can serve as a saftey device. if it is chain then look at PTO shaft with a shear bolt.
double check you do not need a new PTO shaft. different tractors can result in longer and/or shorter PTO shaft. a couple inches is a couple inches when dropped down into dirt and PTO shaft coming apart on you in a dangerous way.
California
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But check that offside bearing first! In case it has been sitting there and rusted itself solid.
Also it would be simpler to drain the water off the bottom of the gearcase if it hasn't been agitiated, blended, by running the thing. I still don't have all the water out of mine after at least two fluid changes. I wonder if it recurs due to condensation.
For some reason the original design on these doesn't have any sort of clutch or shear anywhere. Hang it and it just stalls the tractor without hurting anything. It's all beefy gears in that side case, no belt or chain.
Depth - just set the 3-point stop for depth. There never were sled runners on these, and they are often run without the optional wheels.
Somebody modified that to move the 3-point pins farther forward. That distance might be just right to run the original driveshaft but add a slip clutch onto the tractor's pto.
Also it would be simpler to drain the water off the bottom of the gearcase if it hasn't been agitiated, blended, by running the thing. I still don't have all the water out of mine after at least two fluid changes. I wonder if it recurs due to condensation.
For some reason the original design on these doesn't have any sort of clutch or shear anywhere. Hang it and it just stalls the tractor without hurting anything. It's all beefy gears in that side case, no belt or chain.
Depth - just set the 3-point stop for depth. There never were sled runners on these, and they are often run without the optional wheels.
Somebody modified that to move the 3-point pins farther forward. That distance might be just right to run the original driveshaft but add a slip clutch onto the tractor's pto.
careyo63
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I have a shortened Dr. Shaft for it should you need one. I don't have much into it and it hasn't been used for anything for Yrs.. so I'll let it go cheap. Catch the bottom bearing that seems to be a common problem. I was lucky and opened mine up to find this............
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clemsonfor
Super Member
This is correct advice! Boggen does not know anything about the yanmar tillers judging by his comment. You have no belt or chain and many do not have the wheels as pointed out many times.
Although a shear bolt or clutch would not be a bad idea it would probably just bounce off anything that was hard unless your trying to till up huge metal pipe or something totally random and obscure.
careyo63
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Although a shear bolt or clutch would not be a bad idea it would probably just bounce off anything that was hard unless your trying to till up huge metal pipe or something totally random and obscure.[/QUOTE]
When Cal. told me yrs. ago of the bearing problem I wasn't happy with what I found to say the least!! I just bought it. You can see the New tines and the only reason for the shortened drive shaft is I was given the wrong one. And then come to find out they didn't have another so I had to shorten it until they finally sent another to me. I've mentioned it that I have it a few times and nobody ever seems to need it. That's been 9 yrs. now...
When Cal. told me yrs. ago of the bearing problem I wasn't happy with what I found to say the least!! I just bought it. You can see the New tines and the only reason for the shortened drive shaft is I was given the wrong one. And then come to find out they didn't have another so I had to shorten it until they finally sent another to me. I've mentioned it that I have it a few times and nobody ever seems to need it. That's been 9 yrs. now...
OP
shovelrider
Silver Member
On that bearing, does anyone know the part number to be looking for. When i do open it up and check on it, i would rather go ahead and change it out. It prolly hasn't been done in awhile or if at all. Sealed bearing would be better than a race/bearing. Going after a bit to pick it up. Thanx all. Jim
California
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Quoting a dealer who we haven't seen here for a while - Buck (EFC) - He said its a common bearing that any bearing house will simply match by eye. And buy the sealed version.
He also got a little dramatic and said throw that old bearing as far as you can before ever running the tiller. Back in the day, nearly every used Yanmar came over with the tiller that had been on it all its life. He saw some tillers damaged where that bearing rusted and chewed up its housing.
In American use the tiller won't have been run submerged in muddy water so the chance of damage is less, assuming the bearing was inspected/repacked after it arrived here. Apparently checking that bearing is just routine maintenance same as an automotive wheel bearing.
As for stalling - my experience is the tiller bounces up and climbs over the roots I hit in my orchard.
He also got a little dramatic and said throw that old bearing as far as you can before ever running the tiller. Back in the day, nearly every used Yanmar came over with the tiller that had been on it all its life. He saw some tillers damaged where that bearing rusted and chewed up its housing.
In American use the tiller won't have been run submerged in muddy water so the chance of damage is less, assuming the bearing was inspected/repacked after it arrived here. Apparently checking that bearing is just routine maintenance same as an automotive wheel bearing.
As for stalling - my experience is the tiller bounces up and climbs over the roots I hit in my orchard.
If your right about it being a 1200 the bearing will be a 6207 2RS, if a different size then most likely a different bearing. Have you measured it. My 1300 measures 51 inches which is what mm to inches translates. Naturally 1200 translates to 47-1/4"
OP
shovelrider
Silver Member
How is that measured, by end of shaft where the tines are, or from o/s-o/s of tiller its self ? And is that number you gave an AllBalls #, or Timken. Thanx. Jim
Went out to measrue my 1300 and I can't tell you where they get that measurement. I can tell you my 1300 measures 52-5/8" across the sheet metal.
California
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I think (?) it's the width of the cut in the earth you can measure after you make the first pass.
And this assumes the original tines. OEM tines included special outward-facing tines at each end of the shaft. Those special tines are no longer available so the measured cut would be a little less with standard tines on the ends now.
And this assumes the original tines. OEM tines included special outward-facing tines at each end of the shaft. Those special tines are no longer available so the measured cut would be a little less with standard tines on the ends now.
My outer tines are turned in and although I haven't measured what it tills it has got to be a little less than 51" or 1300mm.
There are many threads out there on these Yanmar tillers. This one probably has more on tine arrangemet. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/214445-new-yanmar-tiller.html?highlight=tiller
There are many threads out there on these Yanmar tillers. This one probably has more on tine arrangemet. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/214445-new-yanmar-tiller.html?highlight=tiller
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shovelrider
Silver Member
Went to look at it, and it's locked up. No way dad used it this yr. Plus dad says $300. I says SEE-YA. O well, took the wife out to eat while we where in tha city. Hehehe, now she can't say i never take out to dinner/lunch. I am sure i can find one for $3-400 that's in better shape. If so, will post. Thanks all. Jim
