3pt weight box

/ 3pt weight box #1  

Dr_Zinj

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2008
Messages
1,570
Location
Barrington, NH
Tractor
Bobcat CT230
You know how some folks fill their rear weight boxes with sand, gravel, or scrap metal. Some fill it with concrete, or lead. Some stick pcv pipe in the concrete to hold tools.

What if you filled a bunch of cut pcv pipes with concrete, set handles in the tops, and used those to fill the weight box? You could easily adjust the weight in the box by pulling and replacing with empty pipes, and the empty pipes could just as easily hold your tools.

****. Now I have to wait until work is out to go make measurements.
 
/ 3pt weight box #2  
You're overthinking this. Or are you also considering a device that weighs what you lift up front, and automatically adds or subtracts the appropriate number of your loaded tubes from the weight box? Waste of time. Fill the box with a material of either preference or convenience - with or without tool tubes - and be done with it.

I have mine filled with sand and steel only. No tubes. I take it off when there's no loader work to be done. Whatever tools I need for the job at hand - get carried along in the front bucket.

//greg//
 
/ 3pt weight box #3  
Yeah it's an interesting idea, but I think not practical.

I filled mine with concrete to about 2 inches from the top, set some pipe in it for tools and never looked back. I resisted filling with concrete cause I also thought I might need to adjust the weight, so I used crushed stone for a year or so. Then I realized I never changed the amount of stone and I needed a little more ballast, so I filled it with concrete.

Since I filled it, I have never regretted it or thought I might need less weight, it's attached with a quick hitch, so if I don't need it, it comes off in 5 seconds.
The pvc pipe makes a great way to carry tools, I used four 1.5" and one 3" and one 4" the bigger pipes are handy, you can drop a chain inside or put a chainsaw in also.
Good luck with whatever you choose,

JB
 

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/ 3pt weight box #4  
I had some extra solid concrete blocks (2X8X12) so I packed them into the box. Should I need to move the box seperately for some reason, I can unpack it -- seems unlikely though.

I suppose if I lived in a hilly area I would go ahead and fill it with cement mix since the roll bar on the tractor would not be as useful if a bunch of concrete blocks were falling out of the weight box on my head in a roll-over.

Cliff
 
/ 3pt weight box #5  
Don't any of you folks have - rocks???? Man, I got s pile of rocks taller than me, must cover 50 x 50 area, actually have 2 other piles of rock. Just use rocks. Simple, easy, free.

I know, not every place has rocks, but most of my youth was spent collecting those rocks to make that pile.... Now wife & I tool around in spring and load up the Polaris Ranger until it squats, and bring load after load back to the pile.

--->Paul
 
/ 3pt weight box #6  
I've been working on the JD weight box for my 790 to make it more useful to me.

To start with I used two pieces of 1/4" x 3" angle to frame the legs & receiver tube, old RR rail for the legs.

With that bolted to the box, I also added a scabbard for the saw & 2 plastic conduit tubes for shovel, rake, etc.

After putting in the scrap iron weight, including 15 old cast window weights, bringing the total weight of the box up to 650 lbs.

Then bolting in a galvanized tray (old granary door) leaving an 8" deep box. Most of what I used, except the angle, tube, bolts & paint were scrap I had on hand. ~~ grnspot
 

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/ 3pt weight box #7  
Ballast is weight. Some get fancy others use what they got. My box has tractor wheel weights, barbell weights, steel plates and RR spikes that fill it 2/3 full. Plenty of room left for tools. Don't know for sure what it weighs (800+ ?) but when the 3pt picks it up it bows the sides in. Some day will have to take it to the elevator scales to weigh it.
 
/ 3pt weight box #8  
Am I splitting hairs...... shouldn't your counter weight(s) be the same but not more than the capacity of your FEL?
 
/ 3pt weight box #9  
Probably. My JD 300 loader on a 790 is only suppose to be able to pick up 740 lbs. But just the other day I drove it up on a flatbed trailer with a set of Horst forks weighing 425 lbs mounted on the loader and picked up a JD MP72 skid steer bucket that weighs 918 lbs. once off the trailer I picked it up to a height of about 6 feet. Wish I would have tried to take it to full height, have to try that sometime. Anyway, the heavier ballast box makes the tractor rock steady.
 
/ 3pt weight box #10  
Am I splitting hairs...... shouldn't your counter weight(s) be the same but not more than the capacity of your FEL?
Well, technically the rear ballast counters the weight of both the load AND the loader. But - since the loader mounting points move the fulcrum to the middle of the tractor - it's not a pound for pound ratio. And this will change between/among tractor-loader combinations. My own tractor and loader manuals deal extensively with ballast. So for what it's worth, I think those with questions about ballast should start with their own manufacturer recommendations.

//greg//
 
/ 3pt weight box #11  
Well, technically the rear ballast counters the weight of both the load AND the loader. But - since the loader mounting points move the fulcrum to the middle of the tractor - it's not a pound for pound ratio. And this will change between/among tractor-loader combinations. My own tractor and loader manuals deal extensively with ballast. So for what it's worth, I think those with questions about ballast should start with their own manufacturer recommendations.

//greg//

My understanding is the goal is to counter the center of gravity(CG) shift. As the weight on the FEL increases, the CG moves toward the front wheels. This increases wear on the front axle and steering effort, while the lack of weight on the rear causes traction loss. Roughly equal weight to the load would help center the CG (if distance is the same to the FEL and to the weight box).

More weight could help steering effort and rear wheel traction, but the manufacturer limits prevent excess stress on other tractor parts (like the frame). Excess weight in the box could reduce steering control.
 
/ 3pt weight box #12  
Over-thinking must be contagious. The point remains; the geometry of tractor/loader combinations varies by make/model. I know specifically about my JD3720 tractor and JD300X loader from studying the respective owner manuals. Thus I can only speak in generalities about your MF and unknown loader. My advice remains to consult your own manuals regarding ballast.

//greg//
 
/ 3pt weight box #13  
Don't any of you folks have - rocks???? Man, I got s pile of rocks taller than me, must cover 50 x 50 area, actually have 2 other piles of rock. Just use rocks. Simple, easy, free.

I know, not every place has rocks, but most of my youth was spent collecting those rocks to make that pile.... Now wife & I tool around in spring and load up the Polaris Ranger until it squats, and bring load after load back to the pile.

--->Paul

You would be surprised how much concrete you can get in a weight-bow even with rocks thrown in. I use rocks for fill but there will be almost double the weight just from concrete filling the voids.
 
/ 3pt weight box #14  
Made my own, welded 3 point frame, formed it in with plywood and used concrete cloth to hold it together. My tractor is smaller but could be done for any size.
 
 

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