3510 engine repair

[docstoy]

Just purchased a 3510 with the engine down, have not pulled the cylinder head or oil pan yet. Anyone had to remove their front shaft between front axle and transmission, any tips on removing it ? It also has a FEL and it doesn't have a parking stand, could anyone share the length and diameter of pipe so that I could make one . And any tips or suggestions on how to remove the loader with a dead engine. Is dealer still best option for service information/manual or are there cd/dvd's available ? My FEL is a ML112e . thanks for your help, Danny

 

[dfkrug]

Sounds like a fun project. I have never had a Mahindra, but would love one of
their HST models to take apart.

First, you should get all the manuals......I am getting more and more in PDF format
cuz they save tons of money. Money better spent on new OEM parts.

On other machines, I have seen roll pins used to secure the MFWD drive
shaft to its splined couplers. Look for those and pound one of them out.

Removing FELs off of dead tractors is a bear. I use another tractor and
boom or fork to lift them off.

Good luck, and post some pix.

 

[docstoy]

Thank for your reply dfkrug, I bought this tractor because I needed a small tractor that had a FEL and could handle other attachments and it was inexpensive. I am hoping that it can be repaired without replacing the engine, been here several times reading reviews and talking to people locally before I saw it on tractorhouse. I don't have much experience with farm equipment, but it
looks like I'm fixing to get my feet wet because this is my first tractor purchase. I will try and take pictures as I go and post them here. I've been pleasantly surprised that there hasn't been more post or that there aren't many 3510's out there which is a bad thing.I could sure use any advise because I know that a lot of you use your tractors everyday.
I want to thank any of you beforehand with your help and advise.

 

[Gator6x4]

Removing FELs off of dead tractors is a bear. I use another tractor and
boom or fork to lift them off.

Good luck, and post some pix.

If you do not have access to another tractor, I have also seen a automotive engine remover boom or crane used. You can rent one of those at most rental location.

 

[dfkrug]

If you do not have access to another tractor, I have also seen a
automotive engine remover boom or crane used. You can rent one of those at most rental
location.

Before I had any alternatives, I would rent the biggest "cherry-picker" I could find to remove
and install engines in cars. I got the kind that you tow behind your vehicle. If you can find
one that lifts high enough, this could work for an FEL on a tractor. Note that the legs of
a cherry-picker would be under the tractor, which means you would have to lift the FEL
from the front to roll the tractor out from under the loader.

You might also consider a hoist suspended from a hayloft beam if you have a conventional
barn.

 

[skipmarcy]

Assuming that your 3510 is built the same as my 4110, the driveshaft from the trans to the front diff isn't too difficult to remove. To begin with you loosen the clamp that is about midway down the tube, this lets the 2 sections of tube slide together thus shortening it. The rear section slides out of the front of the trans and has an "O" ring for sealing. There should be a little tab of metal on the tube back just in front of the trans, this is for tapping on gently with a hammer to get the tube out and/or back into the trans. The front tube has a small ear on it and a small bolt holds it to the front differential, remove this and you can move the collapsed tubes back & forth along the actual driveshaft inside. At each end of the driveshaft you'll see the splined collar with a snap ring on the shaft on one side of the collar. Using snap ring pliers open this snap ring and slide it down the driveshaft a little ways and this will allow the collar to slide as well, disengaging it from the corresponding shaft it attaches to. It is the same at both ends - once you have both collars slid back the whole driveshaft and tube assy will fall right down in your hands or on your head if you're not careful !! There is no fluid/oil inside this tube assy, just the driveshaft. If there is fluid you have a leak - 90w gear oil from the front diff or hydraulic fluid from the trans. Good luck on your project !!

 

[kneedeep]

My tractor is at the farm, I will measure the FEL stand when I go. I can tell you the stand pipe installed keeps the bucket about 6" off the ground when level. The bucket rolled forward kicks the back of the frame up off the post so the tractor can back away. Some sort of lifting device capable of the handling the loader weight plus or a overhead winch would be required to get the FEL off and moved out of the way. It is pretty heavy and bulky, probably hard to get it balanced to lift and swing. Be careful that the hydraulic lines on the frame are not crushed.

Good luck!!

 

[docstoy]

Had time this morning before church to drain engine oil,it did have coolant mixed in it. After I remove FEL will remove glow plugs and ck compression to have a better idea of
condition rings are in before pulling cylinder head. Do daedong engines have a history of cylinder head or block cracking? Reason for pre/ck's before tear down ? I haven't been able to find an engine overhaul kit and they are very proud of their parts. But I will replace parts if they are needed. Again thanks to all that reply.

 

[docstoy]

My work hours were swapped around yesterday so I had some time to piddle with the tractor, had a 3 foot piece of 2" pipe and put a 4X6 under it in the loader to use as a parking leg,removed the 2 nuts/washers where it was attached at the rear of loader, it came off very quickly and disconnected lines to loader. Hooked a chain to tractor and was able to move it so we could push it into the garage. Removed hood and side panels,then removed glow plug wiring and
plugs,#2 glow plug appeared a little rusty so I think that is probably the cylinder that is leaking coolant.Tried to turn engine with a pipe wrench at crankshaft
couldn't budge it so I removed starter in hopes that starter was stuck in flywheel,no luck there. So I guess the next thing I'll do is remove front drive shaft and oil pan to inspect lower end. As always any response or suggestion is welcomed and thanks to all that reply.Will post progress.

 

[docstoy]

Remove front shaft for front end(thanks skipmarcy for the help) removed oil pan and rod caps. Bearings were in excellent condition for connecting rods.last night 9/21 after work, removed intake & exhaust manifolds and valve cover. Today I removed cylinder head and found part of the problem. Exhaust valve seat on #2 cylinder had come loose and destroted itself between the head and piston. Going to take head to machine shop to see if it's cracked and can be repaired but will need another piston. Hoping head can be repaired because they are quite expensive. Still trying to get camera to take pic's.

 

[skipmarcy]

Remove front shaft for front end(thanks skipmarcy for the help) removed oil pan and rod caps. Bearings were in excellent condition for connecting rods.last night 9/21 after work, removed intake & exhaust manifolds and valve cover. Today I removed cylinder head and found part of the problem. Exhaust valve seat on #2 cylinder had come loose and destroted itself between the head and piston. Going to take head to machine shop to see if it's cracked and can be repaired but will need another piston. Hoping head can be repaired because they are quite expensive. Still trying to get camera to take pic's.

Since you had a mechanical interference between the piston & head you need to have that rod checked very carefully for straightness, especially important in a diesel engine. If it were mine I think I would go ahead and replace the piston & rod as an assembly instead of just a piston. Just a slight kink in a rod on a diesel throws the compression off not to mention it being a weak link too. Good luck with the head, maybe it can be repaired without great cost. My engine has been a good one, just clicked over 2255 hours today and doesn't use a single drop of oil between changes. I do have a fuel leak starting around the throttle shaft in the injector pump but so far not serious.

 

[docstoy]

Cylinder head is now a large doorstop, could not be repaired. Called Mahindra about a new cylinder head,
a bare head will be almost $1800. I ck'd online at a cub cadet parts site and theirs was $1200. I wonder why so much difference in pricing, all of the cadet prices were lower.I'm wondering if I need to order their
head gasket and compare it to mine before I order the cylinder head. What difference could there be ?
They both show to be a 3A165 model engine from dae dong.Does anyone know where you may possibly get a used cylinder head for a 3A165 dae dong engine? Not trying to be cheap,just trying to keep cost of repair as inexpensive as possible.

 

[terraformer]

Ouch sorry to here about your head.

I think these tractors are sold as a korean unit as well or perhaps you might find another engine or parts on ebay.

 

[assistir]

Cylinder head is now a large doorstop, could not be repaired. Called Mahindra about a new cylinder head,
a bare head will be almost $1800. I ck'd online at a cub cadet parts site and theirs was $1200. I wonder why so much difference in pricing, all of the cadet prices were lower.I'm wondering if I need to order their
head gasket and compare it to mine before I order the cylinder head. What difference could there be ?
They both show to be a 3A165 model engine from dae dong.Does anyone know where you may possibly get a used cylinder head for a 3A165 dae dong engine? Not trying to be cheap,just trying to keep cost of repair as inexpensive as possible.

 

[assistir]

With a little modification you can get a head from a kubota D1703, to use on the 3A165 Montana and others. The surface side of the head is the same, but they have changed the rocker arm mounting holes to a smaller size. Also you will need to get another valve cover. Some modifications there to install the oil filler hole. But the head gasket is exactly the same with one exception. The guide around the rear head bolt is larger on the older engine. Thus enlarge that one bolt hole and the gasket hole at that point.. The difference in a $3500.00 head and a $400.00 head made the small modifications well worth while. I ordered mine from a head shop in Henderson, Nevada.. look it up if you are interested. I have a list of modifications I have done and how to do them, if anyone is interested in saving some money.. The prices from the dealers are unbelievable. I hope this helps someone... Much research went into this and I am willing to help anyone with the same problem. My problem.. like the first here was the engine swallowed the middle pistons exhaust valve SEAT...This 3A165 engine is used by kioti, mahandra, kubota, bobcat... and others.

 

[dfkrug]

With a little modification you can get a head from a kubota D1703, to use on the 3A165

How did you find out that the heads were similar enough to make the swap?

Have any pix of the mods you made?

As you said, the DaeDong 3A165 engine was used on many models of tractor. Finding one at a tractor recycler in the US should be possible.