3038e electric help

[boomer1025]

If you have no current to the starter solenoid, then there should be only 4 things wrong, ignition switch, I know you just replaced it, bad relay, bad safety switch somewhere or the controller for the safety switches. Does your operators manual have a wiring diagram in it ??

 

[Fossil Farm]

If you have not done so, move the high-low lever back and forth a few times and be sure it is in neutral when starting. Same for the electric PTO. Push on the forward-reverse pedals a few times. If you have current and the panel lights work, may be a safety switch like the tranny or PTO. Just a thought. Good luck.

 

[Boostrd]

Ok I have tried everything yall said still nothing. The safety controller? Would that be in the gauge cluster? I pulled the cluster today and checked the connections everything is good I get 13 volts from the connectors. But the gauge cluster is not working still

 

[Gator6x4]

Have you tried to jump start the tractor with the key in the on position and jumping at the starter. Be very careful if you do this. Make sure the tractor is in neutral and no one is on the tractor to knock it into gear.

 

[Boostrd]

Yes I have and it will crank and turns the motor but no start

 

[whis]

when you turn the key switch do you have 12 volts on starter soleniod, should be the little wire, if you have power there it should turn over. It could be bad starter. It could also be instrument cluster. Your last post says it cranks but does not start. has it been cranking and not starting, if that's the case check fuel soleniod

 

[Coyote machine]

No I did some work to her last season and bought the switch because the orig was worn and the key would fall out while it was running. I never got around to changing the ignition last season. When I went to start her with the old ignition and it didn't start. I figured hey good thing I have that new ignition may be that's the issue. After the new ignition still doing the same thing.

We've got to get a better picture of what the exact symptoms are before we can help solve this no start condition.
What work were you doing to the tractor last season, and why? What was the result after the work was completed?
So now you turn the key in the new ig switch and exactly what happens?
When you try to jump start her the starter engages and the motor cranks like normal? Yes or no?
If the above is the case, then she still does not start?
What about fuel delivery, is that happening when she does crank over?

Do you have a VOM to measure voltage, etc.? If so, what voltage do you read when you get her to crank while jumping?
Try this: use the negative cable only to attach to your negative battery post, NOT to the negative battery cable.Attach the other end of your negative jumper cable to a good ground on the chassis. Check voltage at the battery while using the ignition key to try to start her. I'm looking to see if the ground cable is bad.
Report back results, and please answer all my above questions, so we can try to pin this down. Thanks.
Chin up.:thumbsup:

 

[Boostrd]

when you turn the key switch do you have 12 volts on starter soleniod, should be the little wire, if you have
power there it should turn over. It could be bad starter. It could also be instrument cluster. Your last post says it cranks but does not start. has it been cranking and not starting, if that's the case check fuel soleniod

I have 12 volts at the large post of the starter but not 12 volts at the soleniod wire at all. The starter is good had it checked. Also will crank the motor when I jump the starter with a 12volt source at the soleniod

 

[Boostrd]

We've got to get a better picture of what the exact symptoms are before we can help solve this no start condition.
What work were you doing to the tractor last season, and why? What was the result after the work was completed?
So now you turn the key in the new ig switch and exactly what happens?
When you try to jump start her the starter engages and the motor cranks like normal? Yes or no?
If the above is the case, then she still does not start?
What about fuel delivery, is that happening when she does crank over?

Do you have a VOM to measure voltage, etc.? If so, what voltage do you read when you get her to crank while jumping?
Try this: use the negative cable only to attach to your negative battery post, NOT to the negative battery cable.Attach the other end of your negative jumper cable to a good ground on the chassis. Check voltage at the battery while using the ignition key to try to start her. I'm looking to see if the ground cable is bad.
Report back results, and please answer all my above questions, so we can try to pin this down. Thanks.
Chin up.:thumbsup:

It was basic maintenance, oil, and hydro filters, oil and hydro fluids, feul filter, air filter and that was just because it needed it and hourly maintenance. Everything worked fine after that, till the beginning of this season. i bush hogged a few weeks ago and everything was ok, started having these issues a few days ago.
When I turn the key to the on position I can hear the fuel pump run, when I turn it to the start position I hear a click from the starter soleniod and nothing happens. The voltage drops from 13.1 volts to 12.7 volts
Yes jumping the starter the motor cranks just fine but not start
The ful pump runs, I have not taken off a fuel line to see if it's pumping fuel but I can see the fuel moving in the water separater which I have drained of water and the float is at the bottom.
I am checking the ground of all the Vom readings from the chassis and I have discounted all of the ground wires I can find cleaned and replaced. All ground wire looks to be in good condition. Also the neg battery
Wire is directly connected to the chassis for a good ground. Check voltage there as well showing 13.1 volts.
Also the instrument cluster is not working at all, no hour netter nothing. But all lights and accessories working fine.

 

[Boostrd]

Does the cluster have some sort of control or does it relay power to the starter?