3 PT Carryall box ?

[Workstead]

Hi Bob,

...
Clem, those videos have a couple of good ideas. I would use something besides caps on the end of the PVC pipe or it will just get broken out from dropping a shovel in the pipe. The gardeners out here have a similar setup on their landscape trailers for the shovels and rakes, but they use 2 pieces of PVC inline so they can put a bungee on the handle in the middle. They also use a piece of wood along the bottom as the stop for the handle.

...

Bruce

Bruce,

In the past I have used PVC pipe and have put a dowel through the PVC, at the bottom, to stop the handle and let water and dirt fall through.

Clem

 

[cowboy357]

Just thought I,d update this. I got the 3 point carryall frame from TSC for 99 bucks & was trying to figure out how to build a carryall for it .

Then I found this used dumpbucket on craigslist yesterday & got the guy to deliver it for 300 bucks . I figured if its to heavy for the little yanmar. 300 lbs , it would still be handy for My forklift . There 800 bucks plus shipping new .

Heres a link to Grainger that sells them Hopper,Self Dumping - Heavy Duty Hoppers - Carts and Trucks - Material Handling : Grainger Industrial Supply

Also a few pics of the one I got . Any thoughts on wether it will be to heavy for the yanmar 1300 D ? She wouldn,t be hauling much weight in it . . Thanks , Bob

 

[Ron D.]

I would check with the guys on the Yanmar page, but I don't think you'll have any problem with the weight of the implement. I have a Yanmar F13D that lifts a four foot finishing mower just fine. I have to use some suitcase weights on the front for balance, but it has no problem lifting the implement.

Nice looking little carryall. The dump function is nice. I bought the frame for my carryall at TSC a few months ago (it was $119). I used treated lumber to build a four foot wide floor and back. I use it on my Kubota to balance the weight of the front end loader. I put 25 lb. concrete landscape blocks on it, the number of which depends upon what I'm doing with the FEL.

I typically pull a little utility trailer with the Yanmar. I bought a trailer frame from Northern Tool and built the floor and removeable sides out of treated lumber. I've been doing landscape projects this year and trailer will hold about one-plus cubic yards of compost/mulch. I've moved about 28 cu yds of material since I finished it, and presently have a portable TSC sprayer on it and going after the crabgrass.

 

[cowboy357]

Thanks Ron , I,ll give it a try & see how it handles it . I,m hoping I dont have to modify the forks on the 3 point attachment , But I havent even measured it yet .

How much weight do you have on the front to counter the mower deck if You dont mind Me asking ? . Thanks again. Bob

Edit to add pics & more dumb Questions .

Ok , The arms on the 3pt attachment would have to be Modifyed to use the fork lift slots. So I just slid it on top to see if it would lift it . It did But only 4 inches or so .

I added some weight to the front just in case , But not Enough to Make it safe while moving .

So Now I,m wondering as since the rear lift arms are a little bit to long IMO. Would it be better to just forget the 3 point attachment. Add Pins & a hook up for the dump bucket itself . Or shorten the lower arms to take the stress off of the back of the tractor .

It May end up being to much for this little tractor & in that case , I,ll use it for My forklift & build a suitable carry box . I,m just looking for ideas . Because I,m not very good at desighning things . Thanks for any input anyone May have. Thanks. Bob

 

[Ron D.]

Wow! The new pics give a much better perspective and make it look a lot larger than the original pics, and it does look like it might be a little large for the Yanmar. My front weights appear to be in the 100 lbs range. The weight setup I have is kind of homemade, so the actual weight is a guess, but I think 100 lbs is close. (It's 105 degrees in north Texas today, and everything probably feels heavier than it is, but it certainly felt at least 100 lbs when I went out and checked a few minutes ago.)

If I understand what are thinking, you are considering modifying the lower lift arms, or getting shorter ones on your 3 point lift? If this is your thought, I would not do that. Your lower arms look about the same length as mine, and it helps keep implements from being too close to the back of your tractor. I read a post here somewhere where some owners of subcompacts were experiencing problems with some implements because the lower arms weren't long enough. I just don't remember the exact issue, but I'm almost positive that shorter lift arms were causing some problems. Maybe someone can shed some light on this.

That's still a cool implement and you need to figure out some way to use it. Like you said, maybe on your fork lift. But with respect to your carryall frame, the treated wood and accompanying bolts, nuts and washers cost me very lillte and wood, at least for me, is much easier to work with than steel.

Hey, A/C guy is here and I have to go.

 

[Ron D.]

Sorry Bob, had to run a few minutes ago. I think that was the quickest A/C fix ever. Just had to shoot a little freon in it and it's working a lot better. About 10 degree colder air coming out the vents, and at 105 outside, you need all you can get.

I just measured my Kubota carryall, and I have a five foot bottom and back, rather than the four foot I thought I had. I think a four footer would be about perfect for my Yanmar, which is about the same size as your tractor. I got 10foot treated lumber, four 2x8's, and one 2x10, and cut them in half, and of course for a four foot box you would use 8 foot lumber and cut in half. It took me about two hours to construct. After cutting the lumber, I marked the holes from the carryall to the lumber and drilled holes for the bolts. I used flat washers to keep things from pressing into the wood. It was really quite simple. I used the 2x10 at the top of the back and at the end on the bottom (furthest from the tractor), and 2x8's everywhere else. By doing it this way, the bottom lumber just extends past the carryall frame (so you don't catch your leg on the metal frame and just below the frame at the top.

I'm sure this is not as well explained as it could be, but you'll figure it out just by taking measurements if you decide to build one from lumber.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[cowboy357]

Sorry Bob, had to run a few minutes ago. I think that was the quickest A/C fix ever. Just had to shoot a little freon in it and it's working a lot better. About 10 degree colder air coming out the vents, and at 105 outside, you need all you can get.

I just measured my Kubota carryall, and I have a five foot bottom and back, rather than the four foot I thought I had. I think a four footer would be about perfect for my Yanmar, which is about the same size as your tractor. I got 10foot treated lumber, four 2x8's, and one 2x10, and cut them in half, and of course for a four foot box you would use 8 foot lumber and cut in half. It took me about two hours to construct. After cutting the lumber, I marked the holes from the carryall to the lumber and drilled holes for the bolts. I used flat washers to keep things from pressing into the wood. It was really quite simple. I used the 2x10 at the top of the back and at the end on the bottom (furthest from the tractor), and 2x8's everywhere else. By doing it this way, the bottom lumber just extends past the carryall frame (so you don't catch your leg on the metal frame and just below the frame at the top.

I'm sure this is not as well explained as it could be, but you'll figure it out just by taking measurements if you decide to build one from lumber.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Thanks again Ron , sounds like great advice . I,m steering in the same direction. Without some fairlly major changes to the 3 point links , I see no way for it to work safelly & I had a little over 200 lbs on the front to counter balance it .

Also since its the wifes garden tractor/Birthday present . Thats My main concern . I also just a few days ago bought a bundle of brand new 2x10,s treated 16 footers off of Craigslist . 23 boards total for 230 bucks delivered .

I didn,t really have a need for it at the time but couldn,t pass it up for that price . The Guy had recentlly bought it for a trailer project & the trailer got stolen so wanted it out of the way. Thats 5 really good buys in a month including the little yanmar .

I,ll post pics of What I cobble up . Thanks again Ron & if You have any pics of Yours I wouldn,t mind seeing them . Bob

Oh Yea We hit a record of 107 degrees yesterday . So I know what you mean.

 

[RalphVa]

Can't imagine a tractor without a FEL. I use the FEL as a diesel wheelbarrow, but I also have a carryall for really heavy duty hauling. I carry tools mounted on the FEL tower with a tool belt. Attached are some pictures. I've the tool belt essentially full of stuff now (not shown in the old picture).

Ralph

 

[cowboy357]

Can't imagine a tractor without a FEL. I use the FEL as a diesel wheelbarrow, but I also have a carryall for really heavy duty hauling. I carry tools mounted on the FEL tower with a tool belt. Attached are some pictures. I've the tool belt essentially full of stuff now (not shown in the old picture).

Ralph

Nice looking rig there Ralph , Thanks for the pics . I have 2 bigger tractors that have fels on Them . I just bought this one for the wife for gardening purposes , no need for a loader . Since I traded Her other big one for a forklift .

If she needs the loader she just jumps on one of the other tractors

The only thing I have against this little one , is the aggresive tire tread , Makes it for a rough ride on concrete or real hard ground .

Since the tires have quite a few weather cracks in Them I,m thinking about putting new tires on it , But I,m not sure whats available in tread , Any Ideas ? Thanks Bob

 

[Ron D.]

Great buy on the lumber. I can never seem to find anything useful that is used and at a good price. I've been looking for a good tiller for about six months and the used ones just aren't that much cheaper than a new one from TSC.

My F13D came with ag tires and was rough on the yard and kind of bouncey on pavement also. I think my rear wheels are 16 inch, and I got a set of used pickup truck tires and mounted them on the 16 inch rims. I still have the ag tires on the front, but think I might change them to a turf type tire because the ride is still bouncey on hard ground. The rear tires are great though, and it's a cheap fix as opposed to buying tractor turf tires. Used tires were about $20 each, including mounting. I don't do a lot of tough things with the Yanmar, but the tires have stayed on the rims just fine and I've it this way for about three years.

The one thing you need to make sure of, is that the perimeter of the tires you get are the same as what you replace. This is important in 4 wheel drive in that the perimeters of the front tires and rear are relatively matched, through front/rear axle ratio to work together.