3-point question

[TGF]

I just got my first 3 point rotary cutter, the only thing I had before was a snow blower and a post hole digger. I am a bit confused on the rotary cutter, maybe I have done something wrong. With both the blower and digger the 3 point can lift it up and down. With the rotary cutter it just seems to tilt the deck. I also have an issue when I turn to tight with it the bottom three point arms rub the back tires, and backing up with it is a PITA.

Any tips, this is obviously the biggest heavies 3-pint implement I have.

I have a 3038E
The rotary cutter is a RC2060.

 

[TripleR]

It sounds as though you don't have your top link adjusted properly or the width of your lift arms.

 

[PM1]

This is purely guesswork, but it sounds like your toplink might be adjusted too long. Try shortening your toplink to see if that makes a difference when you lift the mower.

If the tire rubbing on the 3-pt arms only happens when you turn tight, your sway chains may be adjusted too long. They should be adjusted to prevent your attachments from moving too far to either side during transport or operation.

Hope that helps.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Sounds like 2 issues...

1) Your top link is too long. The rotary cutter is supposed to have some play in the top link attachment so that it follows the contour of the ground when mowing, but you should be able to lift it off the ground when you raise your 3 pt. far enough.

2) Your side links on your 3 pt. are not tight. This causes the side to side play. I'm guessing that your other two implements are very close to the same hitch width, and the new rotary cutter is a little wider. There should be a turnbuckle going from somewhere about midway out each lift arm to somewhere near where the lift arm attaches to the tractor. Make sure that these are snug enough to keep the implement from swinging far enough to hit anything on the wheels.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

This is purely guesswork, but it sounds like your toplink might be adjusted too long. Try shortening your toplink to see if that makes a difference when you lift the mower.

If the tire rubbing on the 3-pt arms only happens when you turn tight, your sway chains may be adjusted too long. They should be adjusted to prevent your attachments from moving too far to either side during transport or operation.

Hope that helps.

Great minds think alike.

So do yours and mine.

 

[TGF]

you guys were dead on, the sway chains are loose, tightened those up and fixed the side to side and reverse problems. I will address the top link here in a bit, thanks much guys.

 

[Chilly807]

From what I can see online, there is no "flex link" on the Frontier cutters. On the Land Pride models, there is a pivoting U shaped bracket for the top link to attach to. It provides a positive lift, yet allows the cutter to follow the terrain better. You adjust it so that there is some slack in the linkage when the mower is level. If there's too much slack, the deck won't lift enough to travel well.

Land Pride RCR18 Series Rotary Cutters

I've also seen a short piece of chain used in place of a top link.

Sean

 

[djradz]

The tire rubbing when the deck is lifted can also be a result of the location of the pins on the deck. Several others here on TBN have noted similar problems and usually end up moving the two (2) lower link pin locations down to a lower hole, or in rare cases, drill two new holes lower. Here on TBN this has been more common when a smaller tractor is using a larger rotary cutter. Good luck, I'm sure you get a solution(s).

 

[TGF]

I was able to resolve the tire rub by tightning the sway chains. I still haven't figured out exactly why it won't lift. In going through the instructions it says it says the bottom pins can be moved to the inside so its not so wide, but I don't think i need to do that. It also says the hitching mechanism can be reversed so it leans forward instead of backward. I am not sure if reversing the hitch will fix the lift issue. I am still trying to figure out why it won't lift i have tried making the top link longer and shorter. The mow deck weighs less than max lift by quite a bit.

Is this one of those cases where a hydrualic top link would be handy?

 

[jayste]

TGF, all these guys are dead on with what could be the problem. I think at this point some pics might really clear some things up. If you have the time and the camera I'd take some pics and post them. A hydraulic top link is nice but not needed for your brush cutter. Like mentioned also is a chain can be used as well but special attention is needed when you use a chain. If you can show us some pics and we can better evaluate your situation.:thumbsup:

 

[rd_macgregor]

My mower has a hinged 3PH frame in the front and a chain running from this to the rear part of the mower deck. When I want to mow, I loosen the top link a lot, so the chain goes slack, which lets the mower ride (float) on the rear wheel. Then I adjust the lift arms so the deck is more or less level and won't dig in on bumps and corners.
When I want to lift the deck for transport, I tighten the top link until the mower deck chain is really taut, then just lift and drive away. And, yes, for this rigamarole, a hydraulic top link would make my mowing time a lot easier!
BOB

 

[Chilly807]

A hydraulic top link is great, but I don't have one either. If your mower won't lift the tailwheel off the ground, you're either over the weight limit of the 3ph or the top link is too short, or possibly the lower lift arms are set too short. Any one of the three will cause the same problem.

Measure the length of your top link, then shorten it by about an inch at a time and see what happens. I'll try to take a picture of mine the next time I have it hooked up, but that may be a while.

My tailwheel lifts maybe 8 inches off the ground when fully raised, I could have it set to lift more but that would affect the terrain following capability of the deck.

My setup went something like this... I leveled the mower from front to back, then set the front slightly lower than the back to reduce blade wear and power consumption, as the manual said. The idea is that the front of the deck should be the only part cutting, the rest is just there for the ride.

Once you have the deck height where you want it, then mark the position control for the 3ph at that point so you can easily go back to it every time. The Kubota I have has a sliding stop that you can lock in place at any spot along the lever travel. All I do is raise the deck when turning, then when ready to mow again, just slide the lever ahead against the adjustable stop to go back to the same height every time. I think your 3038 ( I think that's right?) should be almost the same if not identical.

Ok, now for the top link.. the Land Pride linkage has a flexible section as I mentioned before that allows the mower to follow the terrain better. With the mowing deck in the mowing position as adjusted before, there should be some sag in the linkage between the top link and the mower attachment point. This is where the chain would go if you're not using a solid top link. Mine sags down maybe a couple inches at most. This allows the mower to drop at the tailwheel slightly and keep cutting evenly when you go over a rise with the tractor. More sag = less lift height ability, less sag = higher lift but less terrain following. It's a compromise.

See in the tractor manual which hole set in the tractor end of the top link attachment point it says to use for a rotary cutter. With the Kubota it's the bottom set of holes.

I think the length of the top link or the amount of sag you have is the problem, once you get it set up once correctly it'll make perfect sense the next time.

Sean

 

[TGF]

Thanks again guys, I will hit up the tractor when I get home this evening, I am stuck at work...not nearly as much fun as put hours on the green machine.

 

[kencunningham]

Is the pto shaft bottoming out? I reread your post and at first the problem was not lifting straight, then you said it wont lift.

 

[Small farm guy]

I just got my first 3 point rotary cutter, the only thing I had before was a snow blower and a post hole digger. I am a bit confused on the rotary cutter, maybe I have done something wrong. With both the blower and digger the 3 point can lift it up and down. With the rotary cutter it just seems to tilt the deck. I also have an issue when I turn to tight with it the bottom three point arms rub the back tires, and backing up with it is a PITA.

Any tips, this is obviously the biggest heavies 3-pint implement I have.

I have a 3038E
The rotary cutter is a RC2060.

If your toplink attaching point to the tractor has multiple holes as my l3940 does, move down a hole or two. You will lift the implements much higher.

 

[sweettractors]

If you need a catagory 1 hydraulic toplink to help solve your problem? I have them at $250 + shipping. Ken Sweet

 

[Small farm guy]

See in the tractor manual which hole set in the tractor end of the top link attachment point it says to use for a rotary cutter. With the Kubota it's the bottom set of holes.


Sean

Oops, didn't see this part of Sean's response when I added mine above. So I second Sean, move down a hole or 2 on the tractor end of the toplink!

 

[RPW]

"Most" rotary cutters have a flexible toplink attachment. My frontier has the same U shaped piece that someone said the land pride does. If this is the case adjust your toplink until the U is a a 45deg angle toward the tractor. This will let the cutter float over obsticales and still will lift when raised.

good luck.

 

[deepNdirt]

What size tractor have you? are you having to use a Override clutch? Has it been suggested that the drive shaft may be too long?

 

[TGF]

Getting ready to head home and get some work in on it and pictures of it. Quick question, how tight should the sway chains be? Mine keep it off the tires now, but they still have a little give, should they be rigid?

The PTO is not hooked up yet, i wanted to get it mounted right before messing with the PTO, the shaft according to instructions is the correct size, it will have an over lap of about 9 inches and never gets anywhere close to full overlap.