25HP HST tractors and low range speed.

[timswi]

I think you will find you want to take the backhoe and FEL off for mowing. This also lowers the center of gravity.

And makes cutting much easier

 

[WM75Guy]

Nice looking place. If they know you are a serious buyer a good dealer will bring you a tractor to test on your property. Before spending that amount of money I would definitely do a trial run mowing before I bought any tractor to see if you like the look of the finished product. Most TLBs come with R4 tires. If you are not moving and turn the front wheels it will tear up the grass, especially with the weight of the FEL and BH attached. That means you will probably remove and store the FEL and BH since mowing will be the most frequent job so that takes up as much space as another tractor. Even with them off when moving you will get some torn up ground, especially if it is slick and wet mowing on that slope.

If you want that manicured lawn look you will need turf tires on the tractor. You won't like turf tires back in the woods or on wet ground. It will get stuck or develop flat tires.

For that manicured lawn look I would stick with what works or try a ZTR, especially the newer models with a steering wheel. They work better on slopes as the front wheels are not on castors. I tried the finish mower behind the tractor route to mow 2 acres. Mine is flat with some trees. Ended up getting a ZTR for the speed and the appearance.

 

[Rock Crawler]

Personally I like the 3 point mowers.
I can remove/install the rear mount mower in minutes and have a far less debris blowing on me on dry days compared to a belly mower.

I can remove or install the backhoe on my Kioti in 5 minutes. (the subframe coming off with the backhoe does take up more room for storage)

The storage is one of the things that I was considering. My garage bay is 3 3 bays, the bays are 26 feet deep and 12 feet wide with no partitioning walls, the left and right most bays have long term storage vehicles in them, I have a 1971 Chevelle SS under a cover against the one far wall, and the other end bay has a 1979 F-250 sled pulling truck that retired a decade ago... but sits because of the emotional attachment. The center bay is the "working bay" with 2kayaks along the back wall, a Yamaha Rhino and Warn 72" snow plow, a Craftsman garden tractor and 2 Craftsman push mowers. Being that the Chevelle is pushed to the far wall, part of that bay is used for stacks of sled pulling wheels/tires for different track conditions as well as large Christmas decorations. Trust me... I have 10 lbs of crap in a 5 lb bag! But we do keep saying that one day we need to pull the sled pulling truck out and move it up to the upper level garages (we have 4 bays above, 2 bays are 13'x36' where I have the shop area) and start pulling it apart to part out the truck as it is worth a great deal more in pieces than it is as a whole. Sled pulling has moved far beyond our 2005-ish build, so the truck is sort of lost in time at this point. Anyone looking for a king pin D60 front axle or a narrowed D80 rear... or an Art Carr full roller C6 with reverse valve body... or an MSD 7AL ingnition system that attaches to a laptop for individual cylinder management? How about a fuel system to support 2,000 HP or a complete hydraulic ram steering system? It's all worth money laying on the floor, but I couldn't get $3500 for the truck complete (minus engine) 2 years ago.

I think you will find you want to take the backhoe and FEL off for mowing. This also lowers the center of gravity.

I don't plan to mow with FEL/BH. They would be on wheeled skids and pushed over by the Chevelle as tight as possible. I would mount them for the times I wanted to use them.

And makes cutting much easier

Nice looking place. If they know you are a serious buyer a good dealer will bring you a tractor to test on your property. Before spending that amount of money I would definitely do a trial run mowing before I bought any tractor to see if you like the look of the finished product. Most TLBs come with R4 tires. If you are not moving and turn the front wheels it will tear up the grass, especially with the weight of the FEL and BH attached. That means you will probably remove and store the FEL and BH since mowing will be the most frequent job so that takes up as much space as another tractor. Even with them off when moving you will get some torn up ground, especially if it is slick and wet mowing on that slope.

If you want that manicured lawn look you will need turf tires on the tractor. You won't like turf tires back in the woods or on wet ground. It will get stuck or develop flat tires.

For that manicured lawn look I would stick with what works or try a ZTR, especially the newer models with a steering wheel. They work better on slopes as the front wheels are not on castors. I tried the finish mower behind the tractor route to mow 2 acres. Mine is flat with some trees. Ended up getting a ZTR for the speed and the appearance.

Dealers tell me that a 3 blade Woods mower would provide a BETTER finish than my Craftsman deck does because the Woods would have 18000 feet per minute tip speeds, considerably higher than my consumer stamped deck and that the woods would have much better air flow to pull grass upwards for a flatter cut.

I would love a dealer to bring a unit over to test, but I'm not getting the feeling that this is a normal practice in this area. The Mahindra dealer 8 miles away said no, not happening. I can't imagine the guys in Butler that are 40 minutes away having the time or care to load up a tractor and haul it to me. Maybe they would when I showed up with money hand to get serious on making the buy.

 

[timswi]

Would have thought T&C would be at least a little accomodating...Lots of inventory (relative) and don't see much activity...Oh well I guess.

Off topic--What year Chevelle?

 

[Rock Crawler]

Would have thought T&C would be at least a little accomodating...Lots of inventory (relative) and don't see much activity...Oh well I guess.

Off topic--What year Chevelle?

Tom at Town and Country is accommodating to me while I am there asking questions and prices over and over as I move around the inventory... I stopped yesterday and looked again at the 1526 TLB that he has, set up with TLB they are around $24,000. I wish like heck that he would offer to bring it and the mower to my place and demo it... I really hate the concept of paying $25,000 to $30,000 to demo for myself. What if it's truly a no-go? Then I am really screwed!

No matter what I do get, I think fluid filled tires and wheel spacers will be a must for safety.

The Chevelle is a black/white stripes 1971 SS, I got it for my 16th birthday. The car is the same year as I am, and my daughter is named Chevelle. I'll die with the car... and hopefully a tractor. It is a 350 SS/Auto/Air/Cowl Induction car. The original wheels were gone when I got it, I put 8" wide Corvette Rally wheels on it to replace the Crager SS chrome wheels the previous owner had on it. I also damaged the engine back in the late 80's and did a mild 383ci build that has been in it ever since. My 22 year old boy sat on the fender the last time that car saw sunlight... he was around 5 years old. It sets in the garage under a cover waiting for me to decide it is time to resurrect it. Some day it may be a "barn find" after I die.... who knows.

 

[Ridge Walker]

I just bought a 3 range HST Kubota B2601with FEL, MMM and land pride front blade QA. I was looking at Aa Kioti 2510 and the lack of 3 ranges a a slow low range stopped me from purchasing the Kioti although I did like the Kyoto other than only having 2 range HST.
Dealer would let me demo mower on Kioti so I don't know quality of cut.
The Kubota mows supprisingly well for me anyway.

 

[Rock Crawler]

I just bought a 3 range HST Kubota B2601with FEL, MMM and land pride front blade QA. I was looking at Aa Kioti 2510 and the lack of 3 ranges a a slow low range stopped me from purchasing the Kioti although I did like the Kyoto other than only having 2 range HST.
Dealer would let me demo mower on Kioti so I don't know quality of cut.
The Kubota mows supprisingly well for me anyway.

For the same reason as you mention, the 2510 is less than desired. It is a shame that these various companies shy away from the 3 range in the small CUT class. Kubota is fairly unique with that.

I plan to go test drive a Kioti 2610 HST, but for now Armstrong does not have the HST in stock, only the manual. I may have to wait a bit...

 

[Ridge Walker]

For the same reason as you mention, the 2510 is less than desired. It is a shame that these various companies shy away from the 3 range in the small CUT class. Kubota is fairly unique with that.

I plan to go test drive a Kioti 2610 HST, but for now Armstrong does not have the HST in stock, only the manual. I may have to wait a bit...

I found the Kubota to be more refined and smoother running especially the engine.

I also live on hilly terrain and the B2610 will mow it in Mid range. I would guestimate 30 degree incline.

 

[kirkawilson]

Don't know if you have a dealer close, but I just learned about these Rural King tractors. Might be worth checking out. RK Tractors : Rural King

 

[timswi]

Tom at Town and Country is accommodating to me while I am there asking questions and prices over and over as I move around the inventory... I stopped yesterday and looked again at the 1526 TLB that he has, set up with TLB they are around $24,000. I wish like heck that he would offer to bring it and the mower to my place and demo it... I really hate the concept of paying $25,000 to $30,000 to demo for myself. What if it's truly a no-go? Then I am really screwed!

No matter what I do get, I think fluid filled tires and wheel spacers will be a must for safety.

The Chevelle is a black/white stripes 1971 SS, I got it for my 16th birthday. The car is the same year as I am, and my daughter is named Chevelle. I'll die with the car... and hopefully a tractor. It is a 350 SS/Auto/Air/Cowl Induction car. The original wheels were gone when I got it, I put 8" wide Corvette Rally wheels on it to replace the Crager SS chrome wheels the previous owner had on it. I also damaged the engine back in the late 80's and did a mild 383ci build that has been in it ever since. My 22 year old boy sat on the fender the last time that car saw sunlight... he was around 5 years old. It sets in the garage under a cover waiting for me to decide it is time to resurrect it. Some day it may be a "barn find" after I die.... who knows.

Glad to hear T&C is working with you...Drive by there every day coming home from work. The 1526 is a pretty good size machine, could do a lot with that I'd think. People I know with Mahindra's seem to be pretty happy with them, so that's a good thing.

I have a '70 Chevelle SS396 I bought when I was 18. Nevada car. Sadly been sitting under cover in the back of the garage for too long..I feel your pain on that. Gotta get the wife's Nova back on the road first, that won't be too bad (I hope)...Then the Chevelle. I'm going to town on it when I do dig it out, so I gotta get myself committed to it.

 

[AxleHub]

Greetings Rock Crawler,

You probably read my ideas on your first thread prior to this one. I'll make my opinions as short as possible.

It seems you are caught in a twilight zone of analysis detail mixed with "Tim the tool man taylor" thinking.

1st - understand that "slope" and "steep" and "degrees of incline" are often misunderstood. And pictures often minimize the reality to appear like casual angles instead.

2nd - as a result you have to narrow your priorities and recognize TBN is helpful effort but its just opinions with no pain attached to those giving them. They will spend your money and take up your space till you say "stop".

3. Narrowing priorities starts by eliminating information and impressions that ARE NOT useful. An example is your testing of the MF 1726e and GC1700 with the fel on and/or backhoe on some slope angles and no mmm attached. Why would you do that when you acknowledge you won't have hoe or fel on when mowing? It creates false images in your thinking that are not relevant IMO and it causes "colors" on a spreadsheet needlessly.

4. I have sidehills that appear identical in angle to yours and my slopes I cut up and down are all of your angle and more. I also have compound angles I cut sidehill. I just don't have the luxury of one single big space - mine is broken up by a front yard and a backyard plus I also have gardens to cut around (I can cut closer with the GC so I have little weed wacking). It appears you could cut much of your sidehill portion with a downhill angle to it - which increases your low gear speed IMO.

5. I figure you are quite intelligent - so don't let "cell phone holders" impress you. Recognize staying closer to the ground is going to enhance your stability and not be as beneficial in the woods. And if dealers won't offer demo units - consider renting a unit in the size you plan to have (like a GC1715 not a GC1705).

6. A series of garden tractors was your past - not your future imo. My GC1715 turning radius is excellent - but just because it is 2050 to 2250 pounds (unit plus fel mount brackets plus wheel fluid plus mmm plus my custom 3 pt adjustable narrow weight unit) plus add to those numbers whatever your body weight is - doesn't mean its "small" or "tiny" - compared to your 500 pound mower or compared to larger framed cut sizes or a 700 to 900 pound ZT. IMO if you put a net ttl wt. 3200 pound small cut on your lawn and you'll have compaction and sod ripping issues.

7. TBN posters have a strange affection for zero turns - most of the time because they can go fast and mostly flat. But very few have your or my type of lawn shapes. They aren't making things up - they just don't have the steepness. I've had a couple over by my property that talked a big story of their zero turns (big ones). They swallowed deep and said they could go straight down - but they would not try the sidehills or going up the hills because their units would lift on the front or their wheels would "wander" and not be controllable. Zero Turn units are nice - but not for my type of lawn or my neighbor who uses a large expensive ZT at his work. Also - if you are considering a zero turn - consider commercial diesel because diesel engined MF GC1715/1720s use far less fuel than gas engines.

8. Mowing speed in mph. Seems to be a big issue for you. But what are you using for analysis and comparison? 60 inch decks or 54 inch decks? You won't need to stop in the middle for fuel with a MF GC1715/1720 with turf tires - so that's also time saved. You also won't have engine heat issues as your temp gauge will run only to the 1st 1/4 of range markinghe hottest weather.

9. A GC1720 allows you to have your 3pt hitch on while having the backhoe on - so no "on and off" of the 3pt hitch arms.

10. Analysis needs to consider smart accessory choices designed FOR a scut. Mytractortools.com as one example has either a custom ssqa quick attach as well as their patented quick attach options for BX or GC scuts. And then they offer 4 grapple choices and 2 fork choices and several buckets etc. are considerably lighter weight yet can handle the maximum weight capacities of these scuts. So you end up with a higher payload capacity and multiple uses because your equipment is lighter and designed just for the scut sizing.

11. Comfort - an MF GC1705/1710 are dandy scut choices (really nice) but a GC1715 or GC1720 gives you a much better seat with both coil and spring suspension and more hp. - which is pretty important on hills and non-golf course smooth lawns.

12. Dimensionally - a GC1715/1720 is 48 inches wide at the rear wheels with 2 inch spacers. Center of front wheel to center or rear wheel is 58 inches. And one unit fits nicely in 1 bay plus the other implements with room to spare.

13. MF offers several mmm decks - including the only true 6 blade mulching deck of any SCUT I've seen. Myself - I would never have a rear finish mower if steep slope/sidehill issues or backing up or backing down is required to any extent. MMM offers better handling and excellent weight positioning and closer trimming capability IMO.

My thought is everyone makes a spreadsheet - but its just paper. Rent or demo GC1715 with the fel off and see what kind of mower it is for your slopes and sidehills.


P.S. In a pinch - I can quick detach my bucket in less than 60 seconds, if I have my fel on and want to use it soon but need to do some quick grass cutting - that drops 155 pounds and lowers my center of gravity and increases view for quick cutting of an area. Then 60 seconds more and it or my forks are back on. That's not my regular process - but when I'm in a hurry to cut some grass and use the fel right after - it works ok - but I'd never cut with fel/bucket on.