25HP HST tractors and low range speed.

/ 25HP HST tractors and low range speed.
  • Thread Starter
#61  
When looking at a MF 1726E compared to the 173? Beside it, both same ci engines, same frame, same triple rate hydro, same tires... Does the 30 something HP have more driving or in high range, or does the increased HP only translate to increased PTO performance? The 1726 (by the way) tops out at 6 mph in mid range at rated RPM and full pedal using GPS. Acceptable, but 7 or 8 would be better. I'm wondering if the 30 something HP version would have the ability to pull a higher speed in mid range, and would it have more ability to maintain speed on slopes or would there be no change to the drivetrain performance?
 
/ 25HP HST tractors and low range speed.
  • Thread Starter
#62  
And the GC1705 at rated RPM in low range gets 4 mph maximum on level ground. To slow.
 
/ 25HP HST tractors and low range speed. #63  
Not to beat the drum too loudly, but the mf dealer has a couple steep slopes you can try out if he has one of the tractors you are interested.

My JD mower has turf tires, and the mf has r4. The mf goes where the JD slides sideways.
 
/ 25HP HST tractors and low range speed. #64  
I was talking about the dealer in Evans city.
 
/ 25HP HST tractors and low range speed. #65  
With your slopes and the majority of your needs being mowing I would consider a Ventrac. Your local dealer will bring a machine to your property for a demo. I just did this.

The ventrac machine is unbelievable. With the dual wheel kit it removes all concerns about mowing on a side slope at high speed. Mow up, down, side to side, diagonal, it doesn't care.

But you will need more than your $30 day allowance to pay for it. :laughing:
 
/ 25HP HST tractors and low range speed. #66  
I think if the OP is managing with a standard lawn tractor, the Ventrac would be overkill.

A zero turn would be perfect though and would cut his mowing time in half.
 
/ 25HP HST tractors and low range speed.
  • Thread Starter
#67  
Not to beat the drum too loudly, but the mf dealer has a couple steep slopes you can try out if he has one of the tractors you are interested.

My JD mower has turf tires, and the mf has r4. The mf goes where the JD slides sideways.

I took the GC1705 over to that 15 degree bank that goes up to the sign out by the street and first went up in 4x4, no problem.

Then backed down and moved over to fresh grass and used 2 wheel drive while on the diff lock and as long as you kept it moving steady it kept going.

Then I tried stopping with diff lock and starting back up, no go. I also backed down and tried 2 wheel drive non diff lock and when the rear tires got onto the slope at the very bottom it was over.

Repeated the same thing with the MF 1726E.. 4x4 was fine. 2 WD lock was fine, and can stop/re-start. 2WD non lock was FINE! But could not stop and re-start. Amazing what that huge rear tire and added 1,000+ lbs does for traction!

Next, I took and pulled them both sideways at the very bottom of that 15 degree slope going up to the sign. I got off of the GC1705 with the bucket about 4" off of the ground.... I could lean on the ROPS and flip the tractor over with VERY little force. I repeated with the larger 1726E and got off, I feel that I could have flipped it by hand on the ROPS, but it would have taken me getting serious and hulk smashing it.

Adding fluid to the tires of the 1726E would likely make it pretty dang steady at that angle, even more so if they have a 2" wheel spacer kit for it. The comparison for side slopes between the GC and the 1726 shows that the larger/higher 1726E is actually a good deal more stable in the same place/position/angle as the GC1705. That is contrary to what many folks have suggested. Now, maybe repeating with the FEL off of the GC1705 and the MMM under it and filled tires and the stability would (potentially) be rock solid.

In grass cutting mode, no matter GC or 1726E I would be running no FEL/BH and just the mower. The FEL/BH would be put on for the times that I wanted to go dig something, and all winter.

I think if the OP is managing with a standard lawn tractor, the Ventrac would be overkill.

A zero turn would be perfect though and would cut his mowing time in half.

I know that what you speak it truth. But honestly, if I were going to buy a zero turn I would want a low end commercial (Say... about $6,000 to $$8,000) with a set of HD hydrostatic units that would at least last the 4-6 years a higher end GT hydro transaxle can last.

From researching zero turns, the cheap home user $3000-$4000 units come with very small/weak hydro units meant for flat-ish properties...

The same is true for cheaper garden tractors, many of them (and I have been fooled into buying one before) have very small and weak hydro units that I kill in 2-3 summers. I have to spend $3,500 or so and research carefully to get the GT with a hydro unit that gets me double the life of the cheaper units. But they all still die.

That was what got me to looking at JD X700 series units at $12,000 with diesel 4x4... and that got me thinking about the GC1705 with diesel, 4x4 and FEL... and that got me to thinking the GC1720 to add the FEL and BH so I can use the tool to do a whole lot more.... and that got me to thinking CUT because it can do that "more" better. It's a snowball effect. If I am going to spend $5, why not spend $10 and get better. But $15 gets me more and $20 gets me even more yet!

A zero turn takes all of the "more" back out of the equation, and Mrs. Rock Crawler is not going to stand by and let me buy a $7,000 zero turn and a $20,000 tractor when the tractor is not a NEED. But if I get the tractor as a grass cutting device that I need, and it just so happens to have a FEL/BH... I win.

So while you are absolutely correct, the flaw in your hypothesis is that you do not know that the unknown in the equation is Mrs. Rock Crawler. And trust me, she is THE BOSS.

As it stands right now, I have a hard on for the MF 1726E with a 3-point finish mower and the beastly Woods/MF BH75. I believe you are the one that just recently suggested that I could likely back the finish mower up the 32 degree hill. So based on that I opened up my research width to encompass CUT units.

The B series Kubota units are sold out currently up in Butler PA, but they expect a shipment in in the next couple weeks. I want to go check them out, as they are the only CUT I have discovered that can have FEL/BH brackets installed while having the MMM brackets on. They essentially are capable of the "transformer" trick that the SCUT units can pull off.

I really would like to consider the KIOTI FEL/BH/3-Point Mower CUT units, but that BH subframe that you drive over to install looks like a major pain in the butt to install/remove compared to the other brands more conventional BH install/removal method.

The attached chart is my spreadsheet for helping to see the desired traits of different brands that I am considering. I do have other brands included in the chart, but they are hidden as they are not a part of my search... such as TYM, Yanmar and Branson. If you want the Excel version, PM me your email address so that you can add to the information I have already gathered for your personal use.

Along the main body you see green and yellow items in each category, green is the top performer, yellow is the close second. I view the greens and yellows as nearly equally weighted.

Along the very bottom I score them on total counts of greens and yellows to determine the best overall performing units within the group. You'll red as the top performers and orange as the next level down.

There are many intangibles that are not on the chart. Ergonomics. Fit and finish. Personal bias. Dealership distances. Visual appeal. These things could be integrated into the chart, but many of them are personal opinion/choice and do not fit well into the concept of using facts to remain color blind while sorting the products that best fit my concept of value. I see value not as lowest cost, but lowest cost factored into best performing.

The chart is broken down the center with SCUT options on the left and CUT options on the right.

The MF 1526 can not take a BH, so it is greyed out. John Deere priced itself out, so it is greyed out. The Mahindra Max 26 is to slow in low range and does not have a mid range, so it is greyed out. All other CUT units are in the running and I will eventually go hands-on on each one to eventually get the list narrowed down. As it stands, that MF1726E and in the SCUT territory the MF GC1720 are rock solid contenders. MF has some really well sorted out products in this market place.
 

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/ 25HP HST tractors and low range speed. #68  
If you're looking at Kubota B's..Check Phils Sales and Service in Columbiana..I found them to be much more reasonable price wise than anyone local to us..They are very responsive as well. Family owned and run..Similar to Turners for the MF's that you have already visited.

Just a suggestion.
 
/ 25HP HST tractors and low range speed.
  • Thread Starter
#69  
If you're looking at Kubota B's..Check Phils Sales and Service in Columbiana..I found them to be much more reasonable price wise than anyone local to us..They are very responsive as well. Family owned and run..Similar to Turners for the MF's that you have already visited.

Just a suggestion.

If it starts coming down to a Kubota, I absolutely will head to Ohio and check them out. That is not a big amount further than driving from Economy to Butler, so it's worth it. In the SCUT territory the BX series does not look good on paper. On the CUT side of the chart, they come up orange (2nd place picks) but have the unique ability of doing the MMM. That is one those intangible items that could be allowed to swing the pendulum strongly in their favor.

I really think if I am going SCUT that the MF1720 is hands down the best choice, best machine, only option that makes since and would be what crawls onto my trailer.

In the CUT side, that MMM capable Kubota B series would be tough to overlook for the fact of the MMM in and of itself, but other than that the MF 1726E is the shining star. That tractor size, weight, and the insane power of the Woods BH75 makes that thing stand out in the crowd. 2230 lbs dipper force and 3380 lbs bucket force. No one else is close.
 
/ 25HP HST tractors and low range speed. #70  
I guess it depends on what you're planning on doing..I've had a BX23 since 2004 and almost never had a need for anything else. Has done everything I've asked of it and more..Kinda like a swiss army knife, doesn't do everything perfect, but does what I need it to do..Got tired of removing the FEL and BH every week to cut grass, so I bought a ZD724 acouple of years ago---I absolutely love the ZD for cutting. 11MPH is actually too fast for cutting on the ZD unless the yard is a golf course, but it will cut perfectly at that speed. I take it across my sand mound which may not be "quite" as steep as your bank, but it's steep, and it's stable as all get out..

Update FYI: Just did a quick angle check on my sandmound and it's somewhere between 25 and 30 degrees on the upper part. I used to cut that up and down with the BX (in 4wd, never needed the diff lock).
 
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/ 25HP HST tractors and low range speed. #71  
Rock Crawler, I am not sure what all you want to do with the backhoe, but your chart does not have the swing arc on it. I think most of the SCUT units only swing 135 or 140 degrees, while the CUTs can swing 180 degrees. After using a SCUT backhoe some I think that is worth taking note of.

Mowing with a heavier unit when the ground is wet might be a problem depending on how soft that hill gets. A zero turn would not weigh so much. Have you considered a used commercial ZT?

I went though a lot of what you are considering this spring. We have to mow a 20-30 degree slope up by the road with a guardrail at the top. But our sloped area is much smaller than what you have to contend with. Our SCUT can mow it up and down, and my wife runs in low 4wd and has to use the diff lock for some of the 30 degree areas. On the flat areas she runs it in high 2wd and it is not too much trouble around trees (except for the height with the ROPS). We love having the FEL and BH and would not be able to accomplish the work we do without this machine. A 5 foot mowing deck is great for what we contend with and a big difference from a smaller riding mower.
 
/ 25HP HST tractors and low range speed. #72  
There is a mounting kit for adding the backhoe to the MF 1736/1742 and there is an image of it on the MF website.

If you talk to the dealer in Evans City, he may have a way to get this ordered as a TLB. The only advantage is you get the tractor unit plumbed for the backhoe at the factory. You may just wish to order the power beyond portion and get an aftermarket backhoe that sets in the 3 point hitch.

Check carefully about mounting a backhoe on the 3PH on the 17xxe series that will void the warranty, don't know about the 1736 and 1742.
 
/ 25HP HST tractors and low range speed. #73  
When looking at a MF 1726E compared to the 173? Beside it, both same ci engines, same frame, same triple rate hydro, same tires... Does the 30 something HP have more driving or in high range, or does the increased HP only translate to increased PTO performance? The 1726 (by the way) tops out at 6 mph in mid range at rated RPM and full pedal using GPS. Acceptable, but 7 or 8 would be better. I'm wondering if the 30 something HP version would have the ability to pull a higher speed in mid range, and would it have more ability to maintain speed on slopes or would there be no change to the drivetrain performance?

1734e tops out at ~5.5 mph in mid range, 15 mph in high range - but you won't be mowing in high unless it is almost flat. Unless your lawn is really smooth and you don't have many obstacles I doubt you would be able to go much faster. When I mow my pasture I don't go at max speed unless I want to beat the heck out of myself.
Also max recommended side angle is 20 degrees. 10 degrees left with 1/3 full fuel tank can starve the engine as the fuel flows to the left side tank and the fuel line connects to the right tank, ask me how I know:laughing:. The fuel fill location is nice though, just in front of the left floor board, no having to hoist the fuel cans up to a high tank location.
 
/ 25HP HST tractors and low range speed. #74  
I have a little 1531 massey ferguson. While I have a lot of trounce with the tractor, that 3 speed hydrostatic drive has done a good job. I mainly use the high to "road" the tractor down the road like to another field or pasture or something. I generally us mid-range do working the tractor. Don't use the low much but it is nice to have. Tractor pulls hills ok. Do have some power issues when working the tractor hard.
 
/ 25HP HST tractors and low range speed.
  • Thread Starter
#75  
1734e tops out at ~5.5 mph in mid range, 15 mph in high range - but you won't be mowing in high unless it is almost flat. Unless your lawn is really smooth and you don't have many obstacles I doubt you would be able to go much faster. When I mow my pasture I don't go at max speed unless I want to beat the heck out of myself.
Also max recommended side angle is 20 degrees. 10 degrees left with 1/3 full fuel tank can starve the engine as the fuel flows to the left side tank and the fuel line connects to the right tank, ask me how I know:laughing:. The fuel fill location is nice though, just in front of the left floor board, no having to hoist the fuel cans up to a high tank location.
So it sounds like the added HP doesn't change the operating speed in mid range. No point for me to consider moving up in HP based on that.
 
/ 25HP HST tractors and low range speed. #76  
Have you looked at steiner articulating lawn tractors? You can always rent a back hoe
or invest in a small rental return zero swing track drive back hoe.

You can get more than a handful of attachments including a front mower
for a 4 wheel drive steiner and dual wheels on both axles and all weather cab.

Your asking for a lot of trouble with a high angle of mowing like that and driving up a hill and backing down
rather than backing up and driving down to maintain stability with the center of gravity.

I think you will be happy with the steiner as the largest model has a lot of horsepower to run a front mounted rotary or flail mower.
 
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/ 25HP HST tractors and low range speed. #77  
As it stands right now, I have a hard on for the MF 1726E with a 3-point finish mower and the beastly Woods/MF BH75. I believe you are the one that just recently suggested that I could likely back the finish mower up the 32 degree hill. So based on that I opened up my research width to encompass CUT units.



I really would like to consider the KIOTI FEL/BH/3-Point Mower CUT units, but that BH subframe that you drive over to install looks like a major pain in the butt to install/remove compared to the other brands more conventional BH install/removal method.







.



QUOTE]



I back up and go straight up steep slopes all the time with my 3 point finish mower with no problems at all. If your property is open I wouldn't waste time with the MMM at all. I also get as close and with some things closer than I could with the mid mount and can do it faster than the mid mount.

Now I don't know if Kioti changed their back hoe mount or not but I can take mine off and remove it in less than 5 min with no trouble at all and I don't need to remove the lower 3 point arms. Yes it looked to be troublesome at first glance but once you use it you realize its actually one of the easy set ups to use. I have said it before but my other half has started putting it on for me while I am doing other things and she is almost as fats at it as I am.
Might want to actually try using one before you decide one system as being better than the next providing they haven't changed the system since my tractor is the older DK/SE design
 
/ 25HP HST tractors and low range speed. #78  
I back up and go straight up steep slopes all the time with my 3 point finish mower with no problems at all. If your property is open I wouldn't waste time with the MMM at all. I also get as close and with some things closer than I could with the mid mount and can do it faster than the mid mount.

Now I don't know if Kioti changed their back hoe mount or not but I can take mine off and remove it in less than 5 min with no trouble at all and I don't need to remove the lower 3 point arms. Yes it looked to be troublesome at first glance but once you use it you realize its actually one of the easy set ups to use. I have said it before but my other half has started putting it on for me while I am doing other things and she is almost as fats at it as I am.
Might want to actually try using one before you decide one system as being better than the next providing they haven't changed the system since my tractor is the older DK/SE design

Personally I like the 3 point mowers.
I can remove/install the rear mount mower in minutes and have a far less debris blowing on me on dry days compared to a belly mower.

I can remove or install the backhoe on my Kioti in 5 minutes. (the subframe coming off with the backhoe does take up more room for storage)
 
/ 25HP HST tractors and low range speed. #79  
Seems "paralysis by analysis" is in full bloom. Of course, to be fair, shopping is the fun part. Once you purchase, that phase is over and the work calls ...

Maybe I can add another analysis factor? Depending on what you want a backhoe for, you might consider purchasing a trencher instead? A trencher won't pull stumps but does have other advantages at a lower cost. I have a Ditch Witch walk behind trencher I bought for under $2k. It's my "go to" machine if I need to trench for new pipelines or underground wiring. Much faster than a backhoe. At least faster than me and my GC1710 backhoe. :laughing:
 
/ 25HP HST tractors and low range speed. #80  
I think you will find you want to take the backhoe and FEL off for mowing. This also lowers the center of gravity.
 

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