25 HP vs 35 HP

[searcyfarms]

my last comment on this............due to my age I have spent many times wishing I had something better to fit the job - I have had near miss accidents, not enough hp, not enough traction, wheels off ground, every possibly scenario I can think of - never once in all my years other than not fitting my machine through a gate have I ever said gosh I wish my tractor was smaller and dang I have too much HP I wish I had less power, stupid tractor is just too powerful........

reminds me of that old saying you WON'T see on a tombstone, " I wish I had spent more time at work "

so what did I do.............called the neighbor, friend, local rental shop to get something bigger - in my many years I now have multiple machines due to my needs and my smallest weighs over 3K lbs - down to 2500ish w/out the loader and MMM - I went with the most HP I could get on it as well.

I have had lots of equip and been around all of this stuff for going on 50yrs and smaller has NEVER been better in my experience.

 

[jeff9366]

Few with home lumber mill experience would drag logs. Dirt embedded in the bark dulls mill blades rapidly. Most would carry logs with forks, either SSQA Forks on the FEL or pallet forks on the Three Point Hitch, in order to keep trunks clean.

Many would tow large logs cradled in a Log Arch.
VIDEO: tractor log arch - YouTube

If tractor is not sufficiently heavy a loaded Log Arch can take control on slopes.

 

[buickanddeere]

Bigger is better

 

[jeff9366]

HEAVIER is better.

Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

Not arguing that I didn't mention logs of a certain size. As you can see from my pictures, but a few trees are larger than 18" in diameter. I was able to move those partial logs in the last picture rolling by hand. Hard to imagine a tractor from my list couldn't lift and/or drag two or three of those at a time. I can live without cutting down the biggest trees on my land. Just trying to keep this conversation grounded and not scope creep into an 100 hp logging tractor because I mentioned moving logs. Because the conversation becomes irrelevant to me once the tractor of discussion is out of my budget. My life will not revolve around the tractor, but I do want to make the best selection given my budget.

Nice land. Must be East Texas. I certainly would leave as many of those beautiful trees as possible! I think when you mentioned "logs" folks figured a logging operation.

I warned you so here's a defense of smaller tractors.

A smaller tractor can certainly take care of the smaller trees (Shoot, I cleared out gazillions of saplings with a *garden tractor.*) Almost any size tractor can handle the logs in your pic. If you have a few larger trees, hire someone to take them down. Cheaper than buying a bigger tractor. With a Piranha bar added to your FEL, you can push over saplings and also clear brush. More extensive brush can be cleared with a grapple, and smaller tractors can certainly handle a grapple (Everything Attachments has one specially made for SCUTS and CUTS.)

Your land does not appear to be the "wide open spaces" typical of much of Texas. In fact, I'm seeing a lot of tight spaces. A big tractor isn't much use if it won't go where you need it to go because it won't fit, unless you take down more trees, which creates more work.

It's two different mindsets and neither is "right": A big tractor can do more, quicker, but is also less nimble and more expensive to buy and operate. A small tractor can do a lot more than you think, but in smaller bites. Some brands offer more power in smaller frames, a lot of weight and capability for the $. Some brands offer more features or refinements. Decide which features are important to you (e.g., turning radius can vary by several feet in a similar size tractor!) Then prioritize those features.

 

[searcyfarms]

and that my friends is why I have a SS I don't have dirt on my logs nor do I have any troubles turning around in tight places or lifting heavy things to the appropriate height - id sell one of my tractors before I would sell my SS. they make a heck of a haying machine as well - even in the muddy winters here - I have bar tracks !!!

 

[RayfromTX]

The big problem with skid steers and the reason I went with a tractor at home even though I use a skid steer and other equipment at work is that the SS tears up the ground too much. Turning tight in anything but the hardest ground makes deep ruts and gouges. I sure wish for the power of one sometimes but when I used one on my place it just tore stuff up too much after a weekend of trying to be careful I returned it to my friend and said much obliged but I need a tractor. This is for moving through the trees and around the pasture in central texas.

 

[4570Man]

The big problem with skid steers and the reason I went with a tractor at home even though I use a skid steer and other equipment at work is that the SS tears up the ground too much. Turning tight in anything but the hardest ground makes deep ruts and gouges. I sure wish for the power of one sometimes but when I used one on my place it just tore stuff up too much after a weekend of trying to be careful I returned it to my friend and said much obliged but I need a tractor. This is for moving through the trees and around the pasture in central texas.

Same problem here. The svl-95-2 at work will flat out make a fool out of a tractor, but it rips up everything in its path. Running it on grass you care about is completely out of the question.

 

[Aquamoose]

Used (borrowed) a 25hp Kioti with a 5 ft bucket. Definitely wised me up to focus on getting the heaviest tractor for ballast and lifting capacity of the loader. The Branson 3520h I have not w fits the bill for me but like others have mentioned, dealer support is important so your mileage may vary.

I can lift big logs without any extra ballast but I use them to keep extra weight off the front axles.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

The big problem with skid steers and the reason I went with a tractor at home even though I use a skid steer and other equipment at work is that the SS tears up the ground too much. Turning tight in anything but the hardest ground makes deep ruts and gouges. I sure wish for the power of one sometimes but when I used one on my place it just tore stuff up too much after a weekend of trying to be careful I returned it to my friend and said much obliged but I need a tractor. This is for moving through the trees and around the pasture in central texas.

True. I hired a skid steer to do some work and spent a long time repairing the track marks.

 

[searcyfarms]

amen to the tearing things up..........that is why I have both

 

[4570Man]

amen to the tearing things up..........that is why I have both

Same here. Now if there was a compact tractor that was on par with a 100 hp skid steer. Not even being able to push a rock that the skid steer would stack on top of it’s bigger brother and lift both is kinda disappointing. My buddy has a compact wheel loader that’s on par with the strength of the skid steer but the physical size is bigger and the front end visibility isn’t as good.

 

[Geotech]

Well, I'm definitely not going to buy a skid steer in place of, or in addition to, a tractor. My grampa used to drag out logs with an old 1950's or older Farmall tractor with a gas hand crank engine. I am not worried if the tractor I chose CAN do such a thing, nor am I worried about getting some dirt on a log. I am trying to discern how meaningful the difference is in a 25 HP vs 35 HP tractor in doing these tasks.

If I get a little dirt on a log, I can spray it off, sharpen a blade more often or buy a new saw blade. I'm not getting into commercial logging and milling. I don't need to spend another $10K on a tractor because of a little dirt on a saw blade. Again, I'm not looking for the best bazooka to kill my fly - just trying to get a check on 25 HP vs 35 HP. Weighing the pros and cons of the cost and reliability differential when looking and the lower HP Kubota against the higher HP Kioiti. Probably sounding defensive here, but in reality am just trying to get the conversation back on topic.

 

[4570Man]

I’ve used a CK25 and several other 30-35 hp tractors. The CK25 is critically under powered. Percentage wise you’re talking about a substantial difference.

 

[Aquamoose]

I’ve used a CK25 and several other 30-35 hp tractors. The CK25 is critically under powered. Percentage wise you’re talking about a substantial difference.

I can attest to that. I should have added, most guys but tractors for life and I have no intention of selling it for as long as I’m alive so resale factor isn’t anywhere on my priority list.

 

[Oldoak]

Well, I'm definitely not going to buy a skid steer in place of, or in addition to, a tractor. My grampa used to drag out logs with an old 1950's or older Farmall tractor with a gas hand crank engine. I am not worried if the tractor I chose CAN do such a thing, nor am I worried about getting some dirt on a log. I am trying to discern how meaningful the difference is in a 25 HP vs 35 HP tractor in doing these tasks.

If I get a little dirt on a log, I can spray it off, sharpen a blade more often or buy a new saw blade. I'm not getting into commercial logging and milling. I don't need to spend another $10K on a tractor because of a little dirt on a saw blade. Again, I'm not looking for the best bazooka to kill my fly - just trying to get a check on 25 HP vs 35 HP. Weighing the pros and cons of the cost and reliability differential when looking and the lower HP Kubota against the higher HP Kioiti. Probably sounding defensive here, but in reality am just trying to get the conversation back on topic.

:thumbsup:

Sometimes you just have to be assertive. To often suggestions just get too far off base.

 

[searcyfarms]

well in that case I have an old john deere B with a trip bucket, I believe she is a solid 25hp and built for stout with Armstrong steering on it - I think that would do just dandy for ya and way more inexpensive not to mention I can take the electric starter off for you and put on a hand start flywheel so you can do just like Gpa did!!!! wheres them logs, start draggin!!!!

 

[searcyfarms]

LOL - at least we know there are a lot of options ;-) - personally I went with a CUT - I have owned a SCUT ( not that you are considering that ) and just always running short on umph/weight - not fond of the teeter totter pedal - various reasons - mostly design/placement/position/dexterity/fatigue and ease of use and my wife/daughter like the separate pedals ( they hold 2/3 vote ;-) - I think I already shared my recent observations regarding branson/tym/kioti/ls/cnh/fnh/Mahindra/deere - id say 75% will boil down to dealer support the other 20% of nuances brand specific on what you like and the rest negotiating price. My vote would be heaviest/most HP that your budget will allow which will produce the most lifting cap and tractive effort/power.

 

[prof fate]

my choices were L25 or 33, RK (tym) 37 or kioti CK25 or 35.

More kubota support here, had an L175 (17hp, 1400lb, no loader) and while it could do a lot, we have 25 acre horse farm and brush hogging the field weeds is a main task, along with driveway maintenance, etc.

I figured 25hp would be fine. The guy we've hired when needed has a boomer 45hp. Impressive capabilities, but 40-45hp is out of my budget.

RK units are fully optioned, nice. Price, nice. Support...scary. RK (rural king) has dropped 2 other brands of tractors in the past decade, no 'dedicated' support at the store.

Kubota's seem stripped down compared to Kioti, and cost more...My kioti was the same price as the RK37...with same/similar features (and I added some to it as well). For example, my kioti included quick attach bucket (a necissity - do not leave the dealer without it), grab handles on both fenders, bucket level indicator - and probably a few other bits that are 'better' on the kioti like cup holder and phone holder (or for pins and clips), fuel tank location for filling (on the hood SUCKS with a loader).

The 35 was $1800 mroe than the same frame size 25 - BUT - in addition to 10hp (and dpf filter) it comes with a heaver duty (more capacity) loader. Resale on a bigger tractor is better I would think.

As for brand resale..if my Kioti was $3500 less than a kubota I would expect it to sell for less some day in the future. If you look at 15 year old tractors w/ loaders there seems to be a 'floor' for the pricing - ANYTHING with a loader is $6500 to 8000 here, no matter brand, age, etc. So the diff there is what, 1500? So say a kubota is 8k and kioti is $6500 - The kub cost $3500 more to buy..so the kioti is still cheaper in the long run.

Neighbor has his dad's 25 year old kioti - NEVER had a repair.

I got a CK3510HST - load tires, floor mat, mirror, cruise, link pedal, horn, loaded tires, arm rest, first service, delivery, free warranty pickup - 22,550 out the door. Have just under 60 hours on it in the first 6 weeks with no issues. None.

Regen'd once at 38 hours, took 10 minutes while I was box blading. Dealer said in 3 plus years of DPF on kioti's they've never had an issue. I hear about kubota issues relating to dpf a lot online.

OK - 10 extra hp...when you need it you need it! But then if you had 100hp you'd still find something that needed 110hp.

With 29 PTO hp I could do hay and may, no way with 25hp tractor, not enough pto power.
Won't work the 35 as hard as a 25..so it should last longer doing the same work, and I have the extra power when I need it.

And when you're going uphill loaded in 4WD you need all the power you can get.

And the extra power allows bigger implements (6' brush hog over 5' for example), should help with snow removal, have only box bladed once so far and WOW, what the extrra power/weight does compared to the old kubota is night and day difference, teaspoon vs shovel difference.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

Well, I'm definitely not going to buy a skid steer in place of, or in addition to, a tractor. My grampa used to drag out logs with an old 1950's or older Farmall tractor with a gas hand crank engine. I am not worried if the tractor I chose CAN do such a thing, nor am I worried about getting some dirt on a log. I am trying to discern how meaningful the difference is in a 25 HP vs 35 HP tractor in doing these tasks.

If I get a little dirt on a log, I can spray it off, sharpen a blade more often or buy a new saw blade. I'm not getting into commercial logging and milling. I don't need to spend another $10K on a tractor because of a little dirt on a saw blade. Again, I'm not looking for the best bazooka to kill my fly - just trying to get a check on 25 HP vs 35 HP. Weighing the pros and cons of the cost and reliability differential when looking and the lower HP Kubota against the higher HP Kioiti. Probably sounding defensive here, but in reality am just trying to get the conversation back on topic.

A 25 HP can do everything on your list. A 35 HP will do it quicker as long as it's not too big to maneuver through the obstacles on your property.

For a farmer or commercial user, or just someone who wants to get every job done as quickly and efficiently as possible, more HP (and often, multiple machines) is pretty much a no-brainer. They probably can't conceive how anyone could be happy puttering around on a 25 HP tractor. I like working in a relaxed, leisurely fashion. For me it is a pleasure to be savored, not a "job" to be finished ASAP. OTOH, if I had 20 flat, boring acres to mow I'd probably want to get 'er done as fast as possible. Different POVs.

Makes a big difference the type of property you have, as well as the types of tasks. If I had a large acreage that was all wide-open that I needed to mow, this tractor would probably feel tiny and underpowered. On my heavily wooded, steep land, it still feels like a bulky, powerful beast (cue derisive laughter ). I can't imagine what I'd do with more size/HP here, except be even less able to fit through my woods. As it is, I'm going to have to remake some of my trails just so this tractor will fit. So for me, bigger was not necessarily better. I bought UP a size based on TBN advice; time will tell if I made the right call.

If you scan the threads here, every brand of tractor has its issues. Folks tend to be very brand-loyal once they buy. You'll have to decide if the Kubota name is worth it to you, or if you crave more HP for your $$$. Mahindra was more power in a smaller HP tractor for a smaller price, plus a good dealer not too far away, plus no Regen or DPF (one less mechanical thing to figure out), so it suited my priorities.

When you have a wide variety of different tasks to do (as opposed to a huge tract to mow) a good selection of quality implements may save you more time than more HP.