2310d 4wd problem

[winston1]

Your description sounds very normal to me. I would run it quite a bit without the driveshaft making double sure the front doesn't try to lock up. If not, work your way back. I cannot see how the drive shaft could cause lockup. Not saying it can't.

 

[kfin]

I tilled our front yard last night and it worked just fine. Going to go over it again tonight and if it survives that one I am going to assume that the front end is fine.

I think next I will put the drive shaft back on but take the dog off the 4wd lever in the drop box and see what happens.

 

[winston1]

I tilled our front yard last night and it worked just fine. Going to go over it again tonight and if it survives that one I am going to assume that the front end is fine.

I think next I will put the drive shaft back on but take the dog off the 4wd lever in the drop box and see what happens.

Keep us informed. :thumbsup:

 

[grainger12002]

could be the drop box engaged the 4wd but could not disengage until you manually removed the box to view. with the shaft off it effectively disengages the front axle, however the axle input will turn when you look at it as it should if ll in front end is in working order, I think the dropbox is a good start

 

[kfin]

I'm going to revive this old thread as it was never resoloved......If will read through it everything that has been tested, done, suggested is in there. While I am in the fixing mode having just taken the entire rear end of the tractor apart because it had a broken axle stub, I'm feeling more confident in fixing this. I won't be able to do any testing until I get it back together but wanted to get the drop box off and all checked out while the fluid is already out.

What I had wound up doing in the last "test" phase above was to take off the 4wd drive shaft to see if the front tires would work fine. I tilled our yard with it 2 years ago and it worked like a champ. Have done some shredding with it and tilled about 4 big gardens last year..all with the 4wd shaft off. It ran just fine, no problems whatsoever with the front tires turning freely.

In post 22, my next test was going to be putting the drive shaft back on but take the dog off the 4wd lever in the drop box and see if it worked. Can't remember why at this point but I think I was trying to see if the shaft itself was the problem...anyway, that test never happened. I just left the shaft off and have used it quite a bit with no trouble.

I took the drop box off tonight and worked the lever that puts it into and out of 4wd to see what was happening and refresh my memory. It appears to be working just fine. When you push the lever forward, locking in 4wd, the bottom gear gets pushed backwards and engages with the top gear. If you turn the top gear by hand, the spindle on the front (which hooks up to the 4wd axle when on there) turns just as it should. Now remember, this is with it off the machine. Can't actually hook it up and see if it works while running right now as I have it all broken down and am awaiting parts to put the rear end back together.

Everyone seemed to concur that the problem was in the drop box area 2 years ago. That thing looks so simple when it is off and I'm looking at it I just can't imagine the problem being there .... but is that still the thought?? I'm sure none of the jack it up and spin the wheel test results would have changed since I did the a while back so assume all above info is still correct. You push the lever one direction, and it pushes the 2 gears together and both should turn and force the shaft to turn which forces the axle to turn...correct? When you take the lever the other direction, the 2 gears should move apart and the 4 wd axle should no longer turn....correct?

Thanks for putting up with me reviving this dead thread but it is time to get it fixed.

 

[winston1]

Going back to post #3 unless it is an optical allusion the front shift arm #12 is bent. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/yanmar/368806d1396568550-2310d-4wd-problem-lever-jpg

 

[kfin]

Totally agree on that Winston. And it seems to me like I called Aaron to get that part and he said that I would also need the seals, collar and "stuff" because to take that piece out I had to remove the front shaft. It was not as simple as removing the roll pin and lifting it out. Again, if memory serves me correct....once the pin is out, it has to pull toward the center of the drop box in order to get out of that shaft but when it goes that direction, the shaft is in the way.

Is this correct? I wasn't comfortable doing that as it worked in 2 wd, at this point wth?

 

[winston1]

I believe you are correct. You would have no problem taking apart based on what you have already done.

 

[kfin]

Ok, here is a question on the drop box function and how things are supposed to work. I have it taken off the tractor right now. The bent part looks almost perfectly straight right now, I must have gotten it somehow 2 years ago when I started this mission.

Drop box has a shaft running into it and it sticks out the front an inch or two where the 4wd drive shaft attaches. When the 4wd lever is pushed forward it pushes the gear back and engages the other gear as it should. You can spin either the gears or the shaft stub that sticks out and the other one turns. That is how I think it should work. However; when you put it into 2wd, the lever does disengage the bottom gear by moving it forward as it should. BUT when I grab the stub that sticks out, you cannot turn it at all. In thinking of what Aaron told me way back when.....when the 4wd axle is off, the stub where it attaches at the front of the tractor should still be moving even if in 2wd but the one at the back should not be moving in 2wd if the 4wd axle is off. Everybody seemed to think that made sense.

But if, and I believe it is, the 4wd shaft is a solid rod when it is put back on and you are in 2wd and the front "stub" is turning...would this not make the 4wd axle turn? If this is true and the axle is turning, then the rear stub would have to be turning but it would not be in 4wd as the bottom gear in the drop box is disengaged. So what would make the rear stub coming out of the front of the drop box not turn right now???? I think this may be the problem, of course I'm half nuts and zero mechanic.

Is this what would cause the tractor to not function properly when it has the 4wd axle installed and it is in 2wd????

 

[normde2001]

I would have a good look at the front drive shaft connection. Something caused those 3 balls to pop out, that I suspect had to do with your lock-up, depending on whether shaft is driven from front wheels or rear. Possibly worn balls, grooved/worn cup or lack of spring tension. If you hook up the front of the shaft, raise the front end and turn the wheel(S) by the shaft you may find a hitch.

 

[R Barger]

Ok, here is a question on the drop box function and how things are supposed to work. I have it taken off the tractor right now. The bent part looks almost perfectly straight right now, I must have gotten it somehow 2 years ago when I started this mission.

Drop box has a shaft running into it and it sticks out the front an inch or two where the 4wd drive shaft attaches. When the 4wd lever is pushed forward it pushes the gear back and engages the other gear as it should. You can spin either the gears or the shaft stub that sticks out and the other one turns. That is how I think it should work. However; when you put it into 2wd, the lever does disengage the bottom gear by moving it forward as it should. BUT when I grab the stub that sticks out, you cannot turn it at all. In thinking of what Aaron told me way back when.....when the 4wd axle is off, the stub where it attaches at the front of the tractor should still be moving even if in 2wd but the one at the back should not be moving in 2wd if the 4wd axle is off. Everybody seemed to think that made sense.

But if, and I believe it is, the 4wd shaft is a solid rod when it is put back on and you are in 2wd and the front "stub" is turning...would this not make the 4wd axle turn? If this is true and the axle is turning, then the rear stub would have to be turning but it would not be in 4wd as the bottom gear in the drop box is disengaged. So what would make the rear stub coming out of the front of the drop box not turn right now???? I think this may be the problem, of course I'm half nuts and zero mechanic.

Is this what would cause the tractor to not function properly when it has the 4wd axle installed and it is in 2wd????

When the drop box is in 2wd the shaft that the drive shaft connects to should turn freely. Sounds like you have a problem in your drop box.

 

[winston1]

First scan out of the 2210 manual. Note the front shift arm #9 pointed down. Next scan out of the 276 manual. Note the front shift arm #12 pointed up. Is yours like either of these and are you confident your shift arm is pointed in the right direction?

 

[careyo63]

I just had these two threads mixed up again and looked back to the beginning when it started. 3/29/14. I hope it don't take that long to get the Rear 2wd drive working.

 

[kfin]

I just had these two threads mixed up again and looked back to the beginning when it started. 3/29/14. I hope it don't take that long to get the Rear 2wd drive working.

LMAO, well yes......but I have not actually done anything to it in 2 years

When I took the 4wd shaft off 2 years ago, there were no problems when I tilled the yard and the garden. I use my big tractor for 90% of my shredding these days. 15' batwing just goes MUCH faster than my 5' one. So then life got in the way since there was not a "problem" as it worked just fine to till a few gardens each year.......when the wheel stub axle got broken, it is time to get everything fixed up now.

 

[kfin]

First scan out of the 2210 manual. Note the front shift arm #9 pointed down. Next scan out of the 276 manual. Note the front shift arm #12 pointed up. Is yours like either of these and are you confident your shift arm is pointed in the right direction?

I would say mine looks more like the first one as there is not an opening in the back, just the front side where the axle stub goes out and the top.

In that picture I now see what you were referring to in an earlier post about the gear being backwards, as mine has the "groove" toward the front for the sliding pin to go in. And I have never had this thing taken apart as you have to take out and replace the seal and collar in the front when you take either that gear or the lever out..that is why I stopped. When I put mine in 2wd and the gear goes forward, it clearly disengages the back gear and goes all the way to the snap ring "stop".

So I guess there are a whole bunch of things I don't know, but 2 main ones come into mind.

Is the groove side of that lower gear supposed to be to the front or the back of the tractor? Mine is to the front.

Should the lever be up? Or down? Mine is down.

But remember that mine did work for the first 4 years I had this tractor.

 

[kfin]

When the drop box is in 2wd the shaft that the drive shaft connects to should turn freely. Sounds like you have a problem in your drop box.

Agreed Barger....but what? S.....t it is a fairly simple design that even I can at least think I understand. When that lever is back and the lower gear is forward (totally disengaged from the back gear) what could possibly keep it from moving? It obviously is not frozen up or it would not turn when it was in 4 wd, would it?

 

[kfin]

Here is a pic of the whole thing. Not very good, I'll try and get some decent shots of it tonight.

 

[kfin]

I found a couple pics that are decent. Here are 2 while it is in 4wd, both gears engaged. In one of them you can see some small nicks in the groove. Don't know what this is from or how long it has been there. It may have happened when it went kapoot, but I don't know that. The groove is backwards from the picture above that Winston showed.

 

[kfin]

Here are 2 when it is in 2 wd....again, 1 from the side with the lever and one from the other side

 

[winston1]

Your gears don't look exactly like the 276 or 2210. If the shifter works smooth in the sliding gear and all gears turn by hand as they should then I don't see how there can be a problem in that area. Are you satisfied the front shift block (#15 on the 276 drawing) is pretty much centered (up and down) in the sliding gear groove?