2210 U-Joint

[cford36]

Has anyone had to the u-joint between the transmission and engine fail on your 2210? I have 488 hours and the mechanic said that this is starting to be a common problem. About $600 fix since they have to tear the machine apart to get to it. Apparently this has been changed on the 2305 where you can service the u-joint. He said there is a fitting to service the 2210 but it is impossible to get to, so basically its unserviceable.

Was thinking of going to John Deere if I can find out if this is a design flaw.

Any ideas?

 

[zzvyb6]

Do you actually mean U-joint, or is it really the flex coupling? This is the same powertrain layout as my F935. I changed out the drive shaft and failed coupling in about 15 minutes. Coupling part from eBay. Yes, it appears to be a common failure. The cause is probably misalignment of the engine crankline and the transmission input shaft. This puts excess stress on the flex coupling.

You'll have to take the mower deck off, jack it up and crawl around on your back, but 1 13mm wrench is all you needed in my case (actually 2: a box and an open end). Separate the coupling and the 2 piece shaft comes out next after loosening the bolts.

BTW Welcome fellow Buffalonian (I was born and raised on the South Side off McKinley Pkwy, but I'm now here in Michigan north of Ann Arbor).

 

[cford36]

Well, the mechanic said u-joint. He said due to the design of the 2210 he said it's a nightmare to get out. Have to tear the tractor apart to get to it. Sounds like the problem replacing the hydro cooling fan on the 2210, I have heard up to $500 to replace a plastic fan blade due to the time to get to it.

Yea, need it back before it starts to snow.........flurries tonight.

 

[Labrat]

I grease mine every 100 hours or so. It takes about 2.5 hours to do but no problems so far. I actually just did them the other day. The front one is fairly easy but the rear one isn't. You can get to the rear one from under the tractor but can't tell if your getting enough grease in it because you need a needle fitting to get on it.

 

[cford36]

I grease mine every 100 hours or so. It takes about 2.5 hours to do but no problems so far. I actually just did them the other day. The front one is fairly easy but the rear one isn't. You can get to the rear one from under the tractor but can't tell if your getting enough grease in it because you need a needle fitting to get on it.

This is on a 2210? I don't have it back yet to see where it is. The mechanic was telling me there is a fitting but you can't get to it because of the frame being in the way.

 

[kennyd]

This thread may be of interest to you: JD 2210 Tractor Vibration - TractorByNet.com

 

[cford36]

This thread may be of interest to you: JD 2210 Tractor Vibration - TractorByNet.com

Thanks for the link. That is it exactly. I guess I am doing all right since my dealer only quoted me $600 (includes another minor repair) when he was quoted $2200.

Going to have to start looking for the grease fittings on this now. Like he said wasn't even aware of them since it's not in the manual. That probably is because Deere has them as unserviceable.

Seems 400 to 500 hours is the limit on the u-joints if your are not greasing them. Like to find out if this is becoming a common problem like my mechanic said. Don't like the thought of doing this every 500 hours!

 

[Labrat]

yes mine is a 2210. i've had it for 7 years now. Actually 7 years on the 23rd. The rear fitting is a bear to get to. i prefer to take the floor pan off so I make sure I get a good shot of grease in the joint.

 

[jim2210]

I remember reading about this a while ago, so I looked but could not find a grease fitting on the U-joint. Is this on all 2210's & if so, where is it?

 

[Willl]

Curious as to what the symptoms were that made you take it into the dealer ?

 

[cford36]

Curious as to what the symptoms were that made you take it into the dealer ?

Noticeable vibration above about 2200 rpm. Enough that you can hear and feel it in the seat. You will know something isn't right. Everything else was fine.

 

[cford36]

yes mine is a 2210. i've had it for 7 years now. Actually 7 years on the 23rd. The rear fitting is a bear to get to. i prefer to take the floor pan off so I make sure I get a good shot of grease in the joint.

Is there one at both ends? Pictures next time you do this if you could.

I will get more info from the mechanic when I get it back. Other posts have said that Deere only sells the whole shaft as 1 unit, you can't just change the u-joint. I will see what they ended up doing and follow up here.

 

[cford36]

I remember reading about this a while ago, so I looked but could not find a grease fitting on the U-joint. Is this on all 2210's & if so, where is it?

Yes, all 2210 as far as I know.

Not sure where, but the mechanic said that they are considered unserviceable. Probably why the manual does not even address them. Great design, guess provides John Deere continued income.

 

[dixstir]

piece of cake remove fenders saw to shatf in to slide it out make a sleeve to join back togeather after they are back in . dumb on jd part .I just greasted the ones on my 2305 simple.(it takes about 15 min to take that one out)

 

[Labrat]

stupid me.. should have shot some pics.. didn't think of it.. will do next time.. Yes both ends of the shaft have zerks.. I'm thinking of making a longer hose for my grease gun and trying to get to them from under the tractor. I will take pics if I get it to work..

 

[jim2210]

cford36 - Thanks. I'll keep looking & find a way to grease them. Better than the alternative!

Labrat - Yes! Pics, pics, pics! That would be much appreciated! :cool2:
I would love to see how to get to these & get them greased. Even if it's a once a year (or every 2 years) it would be nice to give them a shot.

 

[bill in ny]

i got the rear one on my 2305 last night. had to turn the zerk a little. i used one of those needle fittings on my grease gun. i need an extra hand to get the front one.

 

[cford36]

Tractor came back the other day, replaced the u-joints and found the spline on the shaft worn. Wasn't sure if worn because of the u-joints or that it caused the u-joints failure. Thinking the worn u-joints caused it. New shaft is $500, but had a used one that he was able to use instead so kept the cost down. Total was just over $600.

Still out of town so haven't seen it yet but my son was out clearing snow said it runs smooth as silk, big difference.

Going to have to make sure I get to these now and keep them greased.

 

[jim2210]

i got the rear one on my 2305 last night. had to turn the zerk a little. i used one of those needle fittings on my grease gun. i need an extra hand to get the front one.

Bill,
I assume that the U-joints are the same as in my 2210. Not to sound dumb, but where on the joint is the zerk? I had the dust boot on the front shaft off today to clean out the debris and looked where to grease it and couldn't find anything. Didn't even look at the rear one yet, but I'd like to get both greased. Where are the grease points on the u-joint? :confused3: Thanks!

 

[Henri88]

Bill,
I assume that the U-joints are the same as in my 2210. Not to sound dumb, but where on the joint is the zerk? I had the dust boot on the front shaft off today to clean out the debris and looked where to grease it and couldn't find anything. Didn't even look at the rear one yet, but I'd like to get both greased. Where are the grease points on the u-joint? :confused3: Thanks!

Jim, if there is a dust boot, you are probably looking at the wrong shaft. The one with the dust boot is for the front wheel drive. Bill is looking at the drive shaft that goes from the engine to the transmission which is situated just above the one with the dust boot. Hope I got that right. By the way, the drive shaft for the front wheel drive have no zerk, at least not on mine.