2210 Plastic Hydrostatic Cooling Fan Replacement

[steveschlutt]

Mine is pretty whiney, especially when running the 62c Mower Deck. Something I noticed, however... I ran for one season minus my ROPS-- and the noise was nearly gone. Leads me to believe that the ROPS is sort of an amplifier for the whine. When you reassemble, run it around for awhile minus your ROPS and see if the whining noise is still prevalent.

 

[rscarawa]

I will give that a shot.

Also, in doing some research, I found that the 2305 using this same part. I will place an order for this new part once I get list of all other parts that I need.

 

[ovrszd]

Hmmm,, never thought about the ROPS doing that, but it's possible. I don't use my ROPS so maybe that contributes to how quiet mine is. I just never hear it, unless it's about to stall and then it's more of a growl than whine.

 

[MacLawn]

Whew, rs, you're the man! My 2210 also whines, with only 84 hours when I got it, now only 134. I've read that this whine is normal and won't hurt the transmission. I'm like you, don't like it, but I'll live with it. Broke my fan last summer! So, I've got to try to figure this job out too, plus grease the u joints on drive shaft!

Now, if Deere just fixed these issues on those new little 1025(?) or whatever they're called, that would be the ticket! Plastic fan and hard to grease drive shaft. Oh well, I'll do mine.

 

[rscarawa]

Well, I appreciate the accolades but you might want to hold them until I get it reassembled.

It would be nice if they sold a two piece fan due to the rigor of replacement.

 

[rscarawa]

Been while since I have posted but I have a couple updates. The counter gears are still cast, even for new parts. So I returned the ones sent to me.

I am now reassembling my machine and have an issue. I might have messed up the front case to the transmission. I could not get the case to seat properly. I looked it over several times but could not see what was causing the binding. I was a bit forcefull with it over the iterations and needless to say, it is slightly distorted near the hydro pump idler gear. Not sure what to do hear. Should I reassemble it with the hopes that the main case and hydro motor force this front case inline? Or should I look for a new front case? I looked up the price on the part is $950 for a simple cast case. The part number is LVA801012. Any one know if there is a used market for parts like this? I do not see cracks in the case and for that price I am half thinking of forcing it together and putting rtv on the metal gasket to protect against leaks. Any thoughts?


I hate how projects like this turn to crp.


Scot

 

[rscarawa]

Ok, it seems I had two problems yesterday. One is the idler gear between the input shaft and Hydro pump was not aligned and one of the indexing pins did not want to find its hole.

SoI test fit the front cover against the main and it seems to seat well with just 3 bolts. I will order a new set of bearings for the idler as I destroyed them. I will try bolting the hydro motor against the front cover and see if that forces that piece into alignment. It is about 1/32" off or less when I put a straight edge along that surface. The cover is aluminum and the hydro motor is thick cast iron. We will see what happens.


If this cover were just a couple hundred dollars, I would replace it and not think twice.

 

[ovrszd]

By your description of the problem I may not be seeing it clearly. What I hear is that when bolted in place the cover is still distorted where the hydro motor mounts???

That's not good..... There is something distorting the cover. Until you find that culprit you are just assembling a pending disaster. Were I doing it, I'd disassemble and start over. Bummer.

 

[rscarawa]

When I lightly bolt the cover onto the main case, it is not distorted. That is using just three bolts.

I still need to test the the other side of the front cover since the hydro motor mounts to it. See, the front cover is sandwhiched between the hydro motor (made of cast iron) and the main case (made of aluminum which seems to seat fine). I ordered new bearings and metal gasket. They should arrive next week. In the mean time, I will see if the other side of the cover will be forced back in place by the iron hydro motor.

 

[ovrszd]

Forcing is not good. There's something wrong if it won't simply lay together without bolts. Bummer.

 

[rscarawa]

It has been while so cooperative.

So I have the transmission back together and back in the frame. I replaced a few bearings and am also using the standard viscocity oil for the hydro. After testing it on the stands for 30 minutes and letting it set a few days, no leaks. That is certainly good news. I am using the same front cover that I hosed up a bit with a new gasket. I was fearful something would leak but no signs of missing oil or drip.

Since there is no leaks, I am going to put it back together minus ROPS for further testing. We will see if I still have noise in the tranny.

 

[rscarawa]

Finally got the floor, fenders and wheels back on the 2210. It seems to drive quieter but as was stated before, the rops and bonnet may magnify noise. At this time, it seems quieter than before but that may now mean much. I might try Bush hogging with it tomorrow is the transmission is still leak free after today's test.

 

[rscarawa]

I will say this after going thru the fan replacement, which was the original reason for the disassembly. You cannot replace the fan in one piece without pulling the transmission. Even if you get the drive shaft out by pulling the bearing cups and rolling pins out, the new fan cannot be forced over the spliced shaft of the transmission. The tranny must move back around three inches to get it on the shaft. Or you can saw it in half as others have done and then you can leave the transmission in place. All these claims of pulling the fan by removing the drive shaft are not enough to do the job on a 2210.