2165; operational characteristics

geneP · Jun 3, 2006

Per my eariler post, I bought a used (580 hrs) 2165 this week. I'm checking it over, making adjustments. lubing, etc. My question is about what is normal for the hydrostatic pedals returning to neutral. This one will most times back down to a slow speed when the foot is removed from the pedals, but will still creep forward (or reverse) for a short distance (3-4 feet) before coming to a complete stop. I've lubed the pivot points on the linkage with no change. Of course, a light tap on the pedal for the oposite direction will immediately stop the tractor. It seems like the linkage is binding slightly, but I don't find any place. I'm looking for comments as to it being characteristic of the machine, or ways to correct it so it will center the control more quickly. My wife might be using the mower and quickly reaching for the opposite direction pedal might not occur to her before she runs over something. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif As always, comments and advice is appreciated. Gene

geneP · Jun 3, 2006

Per my eariler post, I bought a used (580 hrs) 2165 this week. I'm checking it over, making adjustments. lubing, etc. My question is about what is normal for the hydrostatic pedals returning to neutral. This one will most times back down to a slow speed when the foot is removed from the pedals, but will still creep forward (or reverse) for a short distance (3-4 feet) before coming to a complete stop. I've lubed the pivot points on the linkage with no change. Of course, a light tap on the pedal for the oposite direction will immediately stop the tractor. It seems like the linkage is binding slightly, but I don't find any place. I'm looking for comments as to it being characteristic of the machine, or ways to correct it so it will center the control more quickly. My wife might be using the mower and quickly reaching for the opposite direction pedal might not occur to her before she runs over something. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif As always, comments and advice is appreciated. Gene

JTKub · Jun 4, 2006

The machine should transition to a quick, but not neck-snapping stop. That's what the little gas strut is for on the linkage. If the pedals snapped to their rest positions when you released your foot, it would be the same as slamming on the brakes. Maybe the gas strut is binding up on yours? I'd pull it and bench test it to check range/consistancy of motion.

G/luck
Joel

JTKub · Jun 4, 2006

The machine should transition to a quick, but not neck-snapping stop. That's what the little gas strut is for on the linkage. If the pedals snapped to their rest positions when you released your foot, it would be the same as slamming on the brakes. Maybe the gas strut is binding up on yours? I'd pull it and bench test it to check range/consistancy of motion.

G/luck
Joel

geneP · Jun 4, 2006

Maybe that's what I missed... I didn't see a gas strut. I didn't drop the deck to lube the linkage, so I guess I could have missed it. Tomorrow I'll drop the deck and check it again. Thanks for mentioning that item.
Gene

geneP · Jun 4, 2006

Maybe that's what I missed... I didn't see a gas strut. I didn't drop the deck to lube the linkage, so I guess I could have missed it. Tomorrow I'll drop the deck and check it again. Thanks for mentioning that item.
Gene

geneP · Jun 5, 2006

I took off the hydrostatic damper cylinder today and tried the tractor without it. It still acts the same way. The cylinder rod pushes in (the way it would go if the forward pedal was pushed) with little resistance. It takes more effort to pull the rod back to the extended position, but I think it must be worn because the tractor decelerates rapidly (neck snapping) when I release the forward pedal with the cylinder insatalled.

Is anyone here a tech on these machines? I'm wondering if there is anything more I can check or adjust? Thanks again,
Gene

geneP · Jun 5, 2006

I took off the hydrostatic damper cylinder today and tried the tractor without it. It still acts the same way. The cylinder rod pushes in (the way it would go if the forward pedal was pushed) with little resistance. It takes more effort to pull the rod back to the extended position, but I think it must be worn because the tractor decelerates rapidly (neck snapping) when I release the forward pedal with the cylinder insatalled.

Is anyone here a tech on these machines? I'm wondering if there is anything more I can check or adjust? Thanks again,
Gene