2002D fuel injection pump experiment

[winston1]

The pump cam that runs the pump on this model is inside the gear cover and separate from rods, etc. #4 on the drawing. Expecting new pump tomorrow so will be tearing into it. I will inspect as much as is possible for missing piece. Maybe try to get a clearer picture of the break on the old pump just to show how scary it looks.

 

[California]

... inside the gear cover and separate from rods, etc. #4 on the drawing.

I wonder how they broke that piece of cast iron.

Maybe Bud (EFC)'s stories weren't a dramatization when he said the VN 'rebuilders' buy their raw material from Japan by standing a container on end and directing the salvage yard to pour tractor fragments in.

 

[careyo63]

IMO. Looks as though someone just plain dropped it!! Most men in VN. aren't very tall but the cast wasn't ment to take that kind of abuse.

 

[clemsonfor]

I would agree in that thing has been broken since put on your tractor.

I think California hit it. I bet that pump was pulled off a motor with a broken rod or something that hit it...or they dropped it on the concrete shop floor (if they even have those over there) and broke it and said well lets see if it still will crank and run. I think it had been running like that a while.

I would probably have bought another too. God is not wrong in his answers he gives us, enen though it may not be what we want to hear.

 

[winston1]

Received the new pump today and installed. Started with a .012" shim, seemed to be a little late on timing, took the pump back off, removed the shim, put a little rtv sealant and reinstalled. Looks as close to 21 degrees as I can tell. I am telling you, it is difficult to move the crank and see the exact degree that fuel starts moving.
Runs fine in the shop, started raining so it will be tomorrow before I can load it up and see what happens. We need the rain, so sure won't complain.

I did examine the gear case as much as is possible through the openings but could not see or pick up any metal with a magnet. Rolled all 3 cam lobes around and just can't see noticeable wear on any of them. Pushed around on them with a screwdriver and everything seemed tight.

Posting one final picture of the old pump that might show a little better just how bad the break is.

 

[Neat 1500]

IMO. Looks as though someone just plain dropped it!! Most men in VN. aren't very tall but the cast wasn't ment to take that kind of abuse.

I was just thinking the same thing, they thought it would be fine. Lucky it ran well all this time and never leaked diesel in the sump! That photo is just plain scary.

 

[clemsonfor]

Received the new pump today and installed. Started with a .012" shim, seemed to be a little late on timing, took the pump back off, removed the shim, put a little rtv sealant and reinstalled. Looks as close to 21 degrees as I can tell. I am telling you, it is difficult to move the crank and see the exact degree that fuel starts moving.
Runs fine in the shop, started raining so it will be tomorrow before I can load it up and see what happens. We need the rain, so sure won't complain.

I did examine the gear case as much as is possible through the openings but could not see or pick up any metal with a magnet. Rolled all 3 cam lobes around and just can't see noticeable wear on any of them. Pushed around on them with a screwdriver and everything seemed tight.

Posting one final picture of the old pump that might show a little better just how bad the break is.

Hope this fixes it and it runs a bit better as well.

 

[normde2001]

Yep, it's a goner, considering those cracks, in addition to the broken piece.

 

[winston1]

Got about 7/10ths rain yesterday. Took it out and loaded it up this afternoon. Temperature gauge went right up to where it has been running always. Really couldn't tell any difference in running. Maybe no improvement in cooling but I sure will have a better piece of mind knowing my pump shouldn't crater on me.

How about some opinions on the timing procedure. I have both a repair manual for a 276 and one for a 220/226. I believe these to be copies of the original Yanmar manuals. Both manuals give the same procedure which is the one I followed. That is to remove the injector line from #1 cylinder, turn until fuel just starts out. Timing mark is to be lined up at that time.

I just got to looking at an I&T repair manual for the 135,155,195,240, and 330. Procedure is same for all these models per manual. Quite different than the other Yanmar repair manuals. Wondering why two different procedures?? I will post the page and would appreciate others opinions on this. I am supposing end results should be the same?? :confused3:

 

[California]

would appreciate others opinions

I looked at my I&T manual and see what you mean. I can't explain that.

Here's a photo of the timing section in my original YM240 Service Manual (page 46). Yanmar's procedure is a lot simpler than what I&T described.