20 inch chainsaw recommendation

   / 20 inch chainsaw recommendation #121  
Whatever you buy, do it soon. I see prices rising.
My 500i is $200 more than I paid a year and a half ago.
 
   / 20 inch chainsaw recommendation #122  
My 620p has a decomp valve.
Since I have a titanium rod in my right arm I use the decomp to start it.
Makes it a lot less stressful on my shoulder.
 
   / 20 inch chainsaw recommendation #123  
I have't read through all 13 pages, but since there ARE 13 pages, I'll throw in my 2 cents.

First, chainsaws are not measured by their bar length. They are normally measured by their engine size in CC, but a better way to talk about them is by the HP they generate because a new 59cc pro saw will normally generate more HP than an older 62cc chainsaw. This is why so many people are recommending the Stihl 261. It generates appreciably more power than the previous 026 or MS260.

Second, what model of Husqvarna saw do you currently have? If you are happy with the way it cuts, and are only wanting to go up to 20 to have a little more reach, I'd just put a longer bar on what you have. The limiting factor on how long of a bar you can use on a saw is how much bar oil the saw can pump out. If your saw can oil an 18" bar, then most likely it can also oil a 20" bar.

Third, if you're looking for another saw because your saw just doesn't have enough power to cut the bigger stuff you're dealing with, then I wouldn't limit myself to something that normally runs a 20" bar. If you're running an 18" bar now, you most likely have a saw that's in the 45cc to 50cc range. IMHO, if you're cutting hardwood, those saws are best suited to cutting wood that's 10" and under. They can cut bigger stuff, but they are a lot slower when doing so. The 261 is a 50cc saw, but it puts out 4hp which is more in line with what you'd expect to get out of a 55cc machine. If you normally don't cut much that's over 12" across, it doesn't make sense to carry around the extra weight of a 60cc or 70cc saw. Most people in that situation opt for something in the 45-50cc range, and the 261 is definitely king of the hill in that category. If you cut a lot of stuff that's 18-24", you're better off with a 60cc machine. I still prefer a 18" bar on my 60cc saws because it keeps my bars and chains the same as what I use on my 50cc machines. People will say that it takes longer with a shorter bar because they end up having to make a cut from both sides of the tree/log. If I'm felling, I like the convenience of a longer bar, if I'm bucking, it doesn't make a difference. With an 18" bar on a 60cc machine, I can drop my depth gauges down to .030" or .035" to take advantage of the extra torque which allows me to cut noticeably faster than what I can with a 20" or 24" bar. If you know what you're doing, you can cut through a 24" diameter log with an 18" bar without cutting from both sides.

Lastly, if you're cutting very much that's over 20" across, I'd strongly recommend getting a machine that's 70cc or bigger. I own several saws, and I jump straight from 60cc with an 18" bar to 90cc with a 28" bar. 90cc machines are HEAVY. They aren't much fun to run, but if I'm spending much time in wood that's over 20", my 90cc saws will cut a LOT faster. A 70cc saw would do the same, but I sometimes need to run a long bar (36" or more on wood that's 4' - 6' across), and the 90cc machines run those better than a 70cc machine will. If I knew I would never need to run a bar longer than 32", I'd get a saw in the 70cc-76cc range and get a 24" and 32" bar for it and call it done. That setup combined with a good 50cc machine is a good 2 saw plan.

FWIW, I run Stihl saws and am brand loyal primarily because I have bars, chains, and spare parts for them. Adding a Husky or Echo would end up costing me a lot more than just the sticker price.
 
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   / 20 inch chainsaw recommendation #124  
I got an Echo CS590 from sawsupplers.com last year. The 620 is basically the same saw with all plastic being replaced by metal. BTW, if you get one be absolutely sure you flip that kill switch off before your first pull to start or you’ll flood it every time. Very happy with the saw and their service. BTW they have 16% off Echo saws through end of April with code EasterEcho.
 
   / 20 inch chainsaw recommendation #125  
If you're on a budget, but you need a bigger saw to run from time to time, and you're mechanically inclined, the Chinese clones (Farmertech) aren't a bad option. Plan on spending $50 to $100 on replacing some of the parts (clutch, starter pawl and rope, oil pump, screws) with OEM (Stihl or Husquvarna) hardware. I am currently running a G660 (93cc) and it's running just as good as my 90cc Stihl saws. I don't expect it to hold up to the daily abuse that a logger could dish out to a MS660, but for my limited needs there's a good chance it will last me the rest of my life. I bought mine straight from Farmertec, but Amazon appears to be the best way to buy them at the moment. The G444 (71cc) is currently $369 with a 25" bar and chain ($325 for the power head only), the G466 (76cc) is currently $314 (power head only, nothing with a B&C is currently available from Amazon), and the G660 (92cc) is currently $370 with a 25" bar and chain ($305 for power head only). The G466 appears to have a 2 to 4 week lead time. Everything else is available with free 2 day shipping.

If you're not mechanically inclined, and you're willing to wait a few weeks, you can contact Smelter City Saws, and they will build you one of their "Bullet Proof" saws that starts with a clone, get's the crappy parts replaced, and then gets some port work. From memory, the cost of the saw ends up being about 50% more than the cost of the original clone, BUT you get a strong running saw that has been completely gone through, and that's still 40% to 50% less than the cost of an OEM saw. As an added bonus, a good chunk of that money stays in the hands of the American craftsman that built it which is probably more than can be said for the OEM saws.
 
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   / 20 inch chainsaw recommendation #126  
All the major manufacturers already sent out notices of the price increases happening due to the parts they build saws from the saws are getting hit with the tariffs.

Believe it or not your saws aint built from parts in Germany or Sweden for many years now.

Most are assembled in their countries.

Even so called USA made ones they like to call them are just assembled in US using foreign and domestic parts.
 
   / 20 inch chainsaw recommendation #127  
I got an Echo CS590 from sawsupplers.com last year. The 620 is basically the same saw with all plastic being replaced by metal. BTW, if you get one be absolutely sure you flip that kill switch off before your first pull to start or you’ll flood it every time. Very happy with the saw and their service. BTW they have 16% off Echo saws through end of April with code EasterEcho.

They're not the same saw, there are more differences than what you are seeing. I know they have different carbs, I know they also have different # of rings (2 vs 1) on the piston. IIRC, they also have different port timing. A 620 jug will fit on a 590 though. Th 620 is higher revving than a 590 as well.
 
   / 20 inch chainsaw recommendation #128  
Echo will be having their annual sale SOON.
 
   / 20 inch chainsaw recommendation #129  
Buy the pro saw. My 038 mag ll quit and I got a 500 I, the o21,023 got tired so got a 261c. and I got an antique Husky compact 023. As soon as I wear out the 0.325 bar on the 261 I'll change to a shorter bar 3/8 pitch/ sprocket. The pro saws not only last longer their weight to power ratios are better. both have decompression. I like to cut so the saw falls through the log. If you buy; like they say cry once vs wishing you bought something better
 

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