2 Wheel Tractors - Buying & Using

[Libertine]

This photo shows the quick attach fittings. The male shaft is attached to the implement (a chipper/shredder in the photo). This slides into the female fitting on the tractor (to the right). The pin (shown just below the red tab spring) then drops into the hole on the female fitting to lock the thing together. You can just see the lugs sticking out of the attachment which engage similar lugs on the tractor’s PTO. Takes seconds to switch implements.

 

[Libertine]

Betcha can’t guess what this is! Just kidding. Yes that’s a standard 1 3/8” PTO shaft to which you can hook any 3 point, PTO driven CUT implement. What use is it? Well, for driving a 6’ finish mower not much. But for driving SIZE APPROPRIATE equipment driven by a standard PTO which is operated in a stationary mode very useful. For example, water or irrigation or trash pumps, generators, hydraulic pumps, grinders, etc. etc. etc. Just add two wheels and a simple fitting to connect to the 2 wheel tractor hitch, snap on any standard PTO shaft and you’re ready to go. The BCS tractor will tow it anywhere it needs to be used and power it when you’re there.

The fitting below the tractor (on the ground) is the standard quick attach fitting usually on the tractor. I removed it to attach the standard PTO fitting adaptor for the photo. Removing & replacing took 5 minutes. Also, this photo shows the wheel spacers bolted to the brake housing. Up to three sets of these spacers can be attached.

 

[Libertine]

This photo shows the wheel weight system. A post is bolted to the wheel lugs and standard, inexpensive bar bell weights slid on. When using ground engaging equipment (such as a single shank chisel plow, root diggers, plows, etc.) where you need max traction, you can increase the weight of the tractor from 300 pounds to near 500 pounds. When not needed, pull the click pin on the end of the post and slide the weights off. The post stays on. Of course, the spacers (show above) can also be used to add dual wheels (or even triples). I had duals on my Gravelies and they gave great traction. Haven’t felt the need for duals on this though (yet).

 

[Libertine]

This type of equipment can use any small engine you might wish. An adaptor plate (just to the right of the blue transaxle housing in the attached picture) is bolted to the transaxle. The engine is bolted to the adaptor plate. There are two types of bolt patterns, European and American style. Both bolt patterns can be used (just switch the adaptor plate). The engine on this is a 12hp Kohler (made by Yamaha I believe). However, you can use Lombardini industrial diesels, Yanmar diesels, and a myriad of gasoline engines.

 

[Libertine]

The towing attachment on the tractor uses a bracket to pin on a tow bar which is then attached to whatever you want to tow. In the attached photo, you see a standard tow behind dump cart (with a seat attached). A 1 ¼” iron pipe is clamped to the tongue (with muffler clamps), a cross piece (angle iron) is clamped to the iron pipe and a hole drilled for a quick pin. The tractor tow adaptor is slid into the pipe and pinned in place. You only need one adaptor since it can be used with whatever implement you are towing. This system works fine as I have used the cart for hauling mulch & chips so far. I will be getting a lawn roller also. Any small tow implement that is used with so-called garden tractors can be used with the 2 wheel tractor with slight modification.

 

[Libertine]

I purchased a number of implements with the tractor & will be getting more. I wanted at the minimum to replace the implements I had for the Gravelies – which, except for a sickle bar mower I have done. So, I will post only a couple of pics on the implements. Many, many are available including hay balers, tedder/rakes, sprayers, planters, etc. etc. etc. etc.

This photo shows the chipper/shredder disassembled. I have owned or used a number of chippers (including a 4” Troybuilt Tomahawk, a 5” 3pt PTO Goosen and a 6” Vermeer). This chipper is only rated at 3” and so the output (measured in bushels per hour) is less - probably 70% of the Goosen, and 90% of the Troybuilt. This machine produces the best quality output of any though. Also, there are screens available down to ¼” in size which will produce a very fine output when shredding and (I have been told) works great cracking corn (for feed). It also has a set of rollers to allow the shredding wet material. The feed rate on the chipper is about 40-50 feet per minute. It makes a real nice 3/16” size chip.

 

[Libertine]

This is a rotary plow which augers the ground and produces a very good bed. You can see the quick attach in the photo. It will “plow” about 10” deep and works better than the old Gravely rotary plow I had before. I don’t believe these are available (yet) on 4 wheel CUTs.

 

[Libertine]

Comparison of the BCS 850 model and the Gravely L. The general impression is that the Gravely L was heavier, more solid build and materials. However, the BCS is clearly more flexible and better designed. Same for the implements. The BCS implements WORK better than the Gravely implements, even if they’re not quite as heavily made. The 38” BCS finish mower makes a better cut than the Gravely (40”). The BCS tiller tills better and the rotary plow is easier to use than the Gravely was as well as producing a better cut.

 

[Henro]

Nice series of photos JEH and a nice thread as well.

I am glad you started it and have enjoyed learning a lot about 2-wheel tractors as the result... /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[MossRoad]

Good pictures and explanations. Thanks. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Libertine]

MossRoad & Henro:

You're welcome. Glad you found the posts of interest. The 2 wheel tractors are, unfortunately, seldom given consideration. Yet, they can do almost (please note, I said almost) what the CUT can do for the smaller property owner, just on a smaller scale. Their weakness is in heavy lifting - there is no practical way do do loader work, for example. Although backhoe attachments are available they are limited. Yesterday I spent about 1 1/2 hrs chipping with the BCS and then used the TC40 loader to dump the chips down a slope at the edge of the property (with the loader).

A financial benefit of the 2 wheel tractor is that you are "using up" a $3,000 asset (the BCS tractor) instead of "using up" a $15k asset (the NH TC40) to drive implements that cost 50% or less of a 3pt implement and yet do 60-70% or more of the work output. The more hours you put on your larger CUT the faster it depreciates, and, of course, the overall per hour operating costs are much higher for the larger tractor. For many jobs, the 2 wheeler is actually easier to use and certainly cheaper to operate.

JEH

 

[ZJ_HR]

Glad you have your BCS. Funny, command levers are similar to ones on mine. I'm not using my 2-wheeler often, but can't imagine life without one.
I saw Goldoni Super Special 140D on fair, and my heart was knocking faster /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

BTW, you're have nice toys, mean attachments /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Dave___in___CT]

Hi...


Anyone know if there's a wood splitter available for a BCS tractor ?


Thanks...


Dave...

 

[Libertine]

ZJ_HR:

<font color="blue">Glad you have your BCS. Funny, command levers are similar to ones on mine. </font>

Me too! I think there are Euro regs for positioning - the new BCS 852 has the brake levers on the post, rather than handle bars. Not as handy for using the brakes to do a 180. Also, the positioning is logical for many of the levers so would naturally be similar across brands. Havn't seen the Goldoni "in the flesh". You seldom see this type of equipment as US fairs.

Dave_in_CT:

<font color="blue">wood splitter . . </font>

Joel Dufour at Earthtools is supposedly working on one, but you have the issue of being a "manufacturer" and the attendant liability. Lawyers keep the American consumer from having many, many things. It should be easy enough to rig something up. A bracket mounted to the transaxle could hold a hydraulic pump driven by the BCS PTO (or, easier yet, by a standard 1 3/8" PTO). The splitter on a frame (with tires for moving). Set up not unlike the chipper with drop down stands when in use. Problem, Dave_in_CT, it would probably cost as much as simply buying a standard 3 pt splitter. It I were going to do it, I would by an inexpensive 3 pt splitter and modify it.

JEH

PS. I am sure they sell splitters in Europe for 2 wheel tractors. You might ask Joel if he can get you one.

 

[milkman]

Me too! I think there are Euro regs for positioning - the new BCS 852 has the brake levers on the post, rather than handle bars. Not as handy for using the brakes to do a 180.


On my 735, I found it difficult to turn left with the mower and sulky attached, the brake levers being on the right handle, in a sharp left turn, the right handle was out of reach. I removed the handle for the left turn and welded it on the left, by the clutch, I've not found a disadvantage with this arrangement.
There used to be a logsplitter for the BCS in their brochure, it was rather expensive, probably why they dropped it. Love that old BCS.

 

[Dave___in___CT]

Thanks...


Dave...

 

[Libertine]

milkman:

<font color="blue">On my 735, I found it difficult to turn left with the mower and sulky attached </font>

I don't have sulky for BCS. Had 2 sulkies with the Gravelies (one steered with a steering wheel, one with handle bars). While it's easier riding than walking, I found the use of a sulky with the Gravely was sometimes more trouble than it was worth, especially on steep slopes or when turning a lot. It you're mowing an acre or two, mostly open, seems fine. Don't know if I will even get a sulky for my BCS.

Nice idea swapping location of brake lever. Shows how much easier it is to use the 2 wheeler. Try modifying the location of the brake on a CUT!

You have the older style tiller. Don't know how it tills, but you have more adjustment range than the newer style. Looks like you can adjust the outer width to at least three widths. My 30" is only adjustable to 2 widths (30" and 26"), although I guess I could drill more holes in it. Looks like yours is more flexible.

JEH

 

[ZJ_HR]

<font color="blue"> I removed the handle for the left turn and welded it on the left, by the clutch </font>

I just did opposite. Older models had brake levers on both sides. New models have brakes on right handlebar. I just move diff lock to new handle, replace cables on handles on right handlebar, and cut out handle on left handlebar, beside clutch. It ic more convinient for tilling in vineyard, as it not collect vines any more. For mowing, I'm usually using brakes to "correct" path on slopes.
For sharp turning is less covinient, as right lever brakes left wheel, and opposite (when handlebars are turned for pushing implements), so I need to think before press brake to avoid surprise /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[bobodu]

Hey To20Chris
I just read your post of many months back about having the 30" Gravely mower bogging down.Mine was doing the very same thing and I thought it was the slip clutch too. Turns out it was the bearing preload on the vertical shaft! Way too tight.You should be able to have that blade spin several revs by hand.Mine now turns for 40 seconds after shutdown.Check both shafts... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[Libertine]

Hi - was at an antique power show over weekend - thought I would post some pics of old 2 wheelers. This is a david bradley very nicely restored.