2 bottom plow question

[Laminarman]

I'm shopping for a two bottom plow. I see Tractor Supply has the KK for $414, only $75 more than some old beat up two bottoms around here. I will never plow more than 15 acres, perhaps never more than any five acres in a year due to rotating crops. I have (will have in 72 hours) a NHTC40D with hydro and 4WD. I see some plows have two little wheel thingy's attached. Is this a coulter plow? I'm confused as to the difference, as I know the Tractor Supply plow does not have that part attached. Any feedback on whether this plow will serve me well for a few years or more?

 

[Egon]

<font color="red"> </font> two little wheel thingy's attached. Is this a coulter plow? <font color="black"> </font>

The coulter cuts the soil ahead of the plough share so there is a clean break. This is important when working with sod as otherwise the furrow has a tendency to tear. Some beaking plows used a solid blade in place of the round coulter.

Egon

 

[sweettractors]

<font color="blue">I see Tractor Supply has the KK for $414, only $75 more than some old beat up two bottoms around here. </font>

There is a lesson waiting to be learned here--The TSC plow will probably do the job for you??--However--You will not get the 50 years of service from that TSC plow that you could get from a refurbished 2 bottom Dearborn or Ferguson 2 bottom Plow. These new plows are not even in the same league. We have been selling plows for 27 years and have seen more than our share of bent, sprung and twisted shortline plows, as sold at TSC type stores--Then the Customers want to trade them in to a Good set of Real Plows and wants to know if we will allow anything at all on the trade in. After they are sprung, we cant use them at any price--Keep in mind that a New "Real" 2 bottom plow should cost approx $1500 with coulters--Ken Sweet
Sweet Farm Equipment LLC *New First Choice Roto Tillers 36 to 90 inches Stocked*

 

[LoganWildman]

Around here, you can pick up a 2 bottom fergusson, ford or deere for around $200-$250. In fact, I was just talking to my NH dealer and he said he has 3 comming in on consignment soon.

 

[sweettractors]

If they have been refurbished? You will be better satisified in the long with one of those than the Lighter TSC type--Just make sure they are not sprung and all the wear metal is good!--Ken Sweet
Sweet Farm Equipment LLC *New Disc Mowers and Hay Tedders in Stock*

 

[JerryG]

I agree with Ken. If the used one is not bent or completely worn out it would be 10 time the plow that he TSC plow is.

 

[Soundguy]

I agree.. I think the old ones are way beefier than the new ones.

I picked up an old dearborn model 10-1 2-14 plow minus the coulters for 195 at a used tractor dealer.

A long time sanding, grinding and wire wheeling later.. not to mention a handfull of plow bolts ( well.. all new nuts and bolts). and some prime / paint, and a new rear disc blade.. it is a great plow.

Soundguy

 

[Rimmer]

Soundguy --

I always enjoy your posts, and have learned a lot from them. I just have one silly question: When you refer to "a new rear disc blade," is that the same thing that is called a "rolling landslide" on a Ferguson plow, or is it something different entirely?

I find plows to be fascinating implements, probably because they seem to be hard as heck to use correctly! I'm always inerested in learning more about them.

Thanks,

 

[PineRidge]

Rimmer the rear wheel is indeed called a landside. See my attachment for one from a Dearborn plow.

 

[Laminarman]

Sound dood. The question remains: can this reasonably priced plow serve me well at 5 acres/year for the near future (5 years)? I know about fixing up the "oldies and the goodies" and how reliable they are (don't ask about my 1982 911SC Porsche...the cost of repairs could go a long way towards a more reliable newer model). But this is a tool to be used and abused. My dealer, and another local implement dealer, state they're not bad for the money and will work fine for what I'm doing. I was really confused about the "wheel thingy" more than anything else. Thanks for the input!

 

[PineRidge]

If anyone is interested I can furnish plow set up instructions that came from Ford for use with Dearborn plows. I believe this info dates from around the 40s or so. Some of this set up info I am sure can be carried over to the new plows as well. If there is any interest send me a PM .

 

[sweettractors]

<font color="blue"> the cost of repairs could go a long way towards a more reliable newer model </font>

The thing is, That the new plows sold today at $275 to $475 can never hold a candle to the older plows. There is no reason that a older plow with replacable points,shins,moldboards and landslides could not last for a hundred years (or longer) if properly maintained. --Ken Sweet
Sweet Farm Equipment LLC *Over 1000 New and Refurbished Implements in Stock*

 

[JerryG]

I know I have said this before but Ken is right again. More than likely the old plow, even if it is worn out will out plow the new one. The new ones are just made to look like plows. They can't be adjusted right, nor are they made to be.

 

[Egon]

Rimmer:

If you work real hard at it you can turn ploughing into a very difficult job.

Egon

 

[KiotiJohn]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Around here, you can pick up a 2 bottom fergusson, ford or deere for around $200-$250. )</font> Where IS around here Logan? thanks, John

 

[beenthere]

Hopefully all will listen to Ken Sweet and you, as you are right on with the plows. New ones that I have looked at have no way to be adjusted, unless maybe a cutting torch and welder are considered. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Plowing with a well adjusted plow is very satisfying but if just slightly out of adjustment (or with a rusty moldboard that wont scour clean, or plow tips that are worn off), it is a torturing event. I would second the opinions that the older plows tuned up and adjusted are the way to go, and will (can) give satisfying results.

Adjusting a plow can be learned by trial and error, and some mechanical skills thrown in. Some good drawings and instructions can be helpful too.

A plow that is rusty needs to be used in sandy soil to get the rust off and then hope the shine comes back without too much pitting. The ol black clay dirt in Iowa was not very forgiving to a plow that was not perfectly shined and polished. Grease them every night or make a lot of jumps off the tractor to scrape them clean, and try again.

 

[MMILLER]

I was wandering if anybody could give me any input on an old trailer plow with rollover. Are thes as good as 3 point for limited use. I can pick up a set 4 about $10 and it has new cutters plus spares. This is a 2 bottom unit that I would use behind my TC40 .

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( rolling lanslide )</font>

Yes, it is indeed.. And mine is a dearborn plow.

Soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

Yep.. having had mine apart in pieces.. there was no structural damage to it.. just replaceable items were worn.. like landslide.. plowbolts.. moldboards.. etc..

Another big difference on plowing.. those old tractor.. like my ford 2n, 8n, and NAA had draft hydraulics on the 3pt.. that made for an awesome plow setup.. especially if you encountered underground stoppages.. like rocks and stumps.. as the draft sensing hyds lifted the plow over the stoppage..

A newer non draft machine might pretzle a new sheet-metal plow.. if your not carefull.

Soundguy

 

[djradz]

I have a Fergeson-Sherman, made in Dearborn, MI and have a question. When looking at the plow from the tractor-end looking back and perfectly in line with it, is there some distance, like an inch or two, of space/gap from where one plowshare/moldboard ends and the second one starts. If I was plowing only an inch or so deep, I think I leave a stripe, but when down 8-12 inches, that little thin piece just comes right along with the second row flip. Does yours seem to have this little gap, or does the second one begin where the first one ends, or is there even some overlap?