1998 John Deere 5310 Fuel/Electrical issue?

[Spades 5310]

This will be a long one, Apologies!!!
Afternoon, as the title states I am having issues with my 5310. It started around a month ago. Ran fine then would turnover but not start 2 weeks later. Trouble shot the whole fuel system and fuses etc. After doing some more research, I found the Temp Sensor for cold start trouble shooting and I thought that was the issue. Replaced it with JD OEM, ran great for 5 or 6 hrs on Nov 26th. Tried to start it the next day and it would turn over but not fire. I started back at square one with the fuel system etc. After draining off the fuel bowl for the um-teenth time, replacing fuel line (prior owner had it cobb-jobbed with rubber fuel hose because it was broken) from filter to injection pump it fired and I was able to move it from the field to my shop. No start the next day.... Once again, I drained the fuel and cleaned the bottom of the tank with a brush on a yard stick as there was a lot of nastiness in the bottom. Removed the fuel filter bowl and cleaned it thoroughly along with putting on a new filter. Removed main fuel line from tank to filter, blew that out and it was clear. I then refilled the tank (fresh fuel:15gal), bled all the lines and had it running for about a minute before it died out. Replaced the hand primer when my father in-law who was here this past weekend was helping me troubleshoot everything I already did again! We were able to get it running. It ran fine, shut off and fired right back up like there were no issues at all. Went out the next morning to finish my field and no start once again... We have no idea why it started/ran fine and now it wont.

I have been racking my head with everything. Checking connections ALL fuses, replaced fuel shutoff relay, replaced fuel line rubber gromets. Checked electrical connections for continuity. Injection pump has power and solenoid clicks, I can feel all the relays behind dash click. Right now I think I have it narrowed down the the actual injection pump. I have fuel to it and no air coming out. If I remove the return line on top and pump the hand primer fuel comes out. However, I do not have fuel coming out of the fuel injector lines themselves. I even removed plug to the injection port gear and it is spinning when it turns over.

Thoughts on any of this? Is there a way to remove the injection pump and put some sort of cleaner in it to make sure its not clogged?

 

[dodge man]

My thoughts are something got clogged. It sounds like you had a bunch of crap in the tank that may have or still clogging something up. Just to be sure there aren’t two fuel filters are there?

 

[Spades 5310]

That was my thought as far as the injection pump being clogged. Is there a way to flush it? Yeah there is only the single filter. I am going to put an inline in after I get it running.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Apparently you have your share of supply problems, and (maybe) have most of them licked. Having been through this sort of thing many many times, at this point I would bypass the tank. Remove the line to the filter base, add a section of hose, a temporary fuel supply (for me that's an empty, CLEAN, 2 1/2 gallon oil jug of good, clean fuel) An (again temporary) electric fuel pump in line with that to charge and supply fuel through the filter to the injection pump. Verify power to and operation of the pump solenoid. Prime and bleed it out and see if I could get it running that way. If it won't run (and stay running) with that, then I'd consider a pump problem is involved. Some trouble shooting along that line would come next.

That said, no matter what people here (or on you tube videos) tell you, those pumps are NOT "homeowner" serviceable. If you have pump problems now, you will most likely have even more after you "fix" it. If you can prove the pump to be the problem, remove it, and send it out. There is a procedure for removing and installing the pump. If you need to go that route, I'm sure someone can hook you up with it.

 

[Spades 5310]

Apparently you have your share of supply problems, and (maybe) have most of them licked. Having been through this sort of thing many many times, at this point I would bypass the tank. Remove the line to the filter base, add a section of hose, a temporary fuel supply (for me that's an empty, CLEAN, 2 1/2 gallon oil jug of good, clean fuel) An (again temporary) electric fuel pump in line with that to charge and supply fuel through the filter to the injection pump. Verify power to and operation of the pump solenoid. Prime and bleed it out and see if I could get it running that way. If it won't run (and stay running) with that, then I'd consider a pump problem is involved. Some trouble shooting along that line would come next.

That said, no matter what people here (or on you tube videos) tell you, those pumps are NOT "homeowner" serviceable. If you have pump problems now, you will most likely have even more after you "fix" it. If you can prove the pump to be the problem, remove it, and send it out. There is a procedure for removing and installing the pump. If you need to go that route, I'm sure someone can hook you up with it.

Harry, I have fuel at the injection pump supply line. This flow is substantial and does not seem restricted in any manner. Its not flowing to the injector lines. That's where I am at right now. I am highly suspecting the pump to be clogged at this point. I was thinking of replacing the fuel shut off solenoid and this was when I found out that its not able to be done... I was hoping there would be some way to clean it before I commit to spending the ridiculous amount of money on a remand one.

Guess I should have done the basic maintenance when I purchased the tractor. :/

 

[Harry in Ky]

I would need to confirm there is massive internal damage before I would consider a reman exchange type of thing. I ran into something similar on a 5303 a couple years back and the replacement pump was like $2500 exchange. We had little choice, but you don't know if you're in that predicament yet. In MOST cases, that pump can be repaired for under $1000, but who am I set prices?

If you're convinced the pump is indeed the problem, then shop around for repair estimates and see what you find. As for the solenoid, if you can hear/feel it clicking on and off when power is applied and removed, there's no point in the fight required in getting the cover off and on to replace it.