1974 MF150 Diesel Won't Start Without Jump Starter

[jonathansfather]

Fellers. I bought a '74 MF150 about this time last year. 1249 hours. Had the fuel injector pump rebuilt mid-summer, and I rebuilt the starter and installed new key switch early fall. Started using it mid-Winter but the only way I can get it to start is by jumping the battery. Turn the key and nothing. Not even a click. I've tried removing cables after running for a while, thinking something might be grounded and pulling power. No change. The battery is a NAPA Legend July 2022. Reckon the battery's gone bad that quick? Any help will be appreciated.

 

[LittleBill21]

gonna need a volt meter for any kind of of accurate help. my feeling is the tires are low on pressure /s

 

[Harry in Ky]

In cases like this details matter. I wonder just how are you jumping this thing that works for you? Simply clamping jumper cables onto the existing battery posts with original cable ends still installed? In effect the power from the jumper source is still traveling through the tractor's battery cables? (which in turn don't carry anything without the jumpers hooked up) It still starts with the key switch when the jumpers are hooked up, or are you making it happen at the starter?

 

[jaxs]

+ one on posts #1 & #2. You need to methodically report what you try and change/results of each.

 

[Dmacleo]

I rebuilt the starter

did it ever start correctly after this? or did you have to start jumping at that point?

 

[jonathansfather]

gonna need a volt meter for any kind of of accurate help. my feeling is the tires are low on pressure /s

Ok. I have volt meters. How does low tire pressure figure in? Thanks.

 

[jonathansfather]

In cases like this details matter. I wonder just how are you jumping this thing that works for you? Simply clamping jumper cables onto the existing battery posts with original cable ends still installed? In effect the power from the jumper source is still traveling through the tractor's battery cables? (which in turn don't carry anything without the jumpers hooked up) It still starts with the key switch when the jumpers are hooked up, or are you making it happen at the starter?

Not bridging over at starter solenoid. Attaching portable battery jumper to hot post and frame. Will start, with key, everytime with jump starter attached. Thanks. Again, nothing at the key switch (without jumper attached), not even a click (which would suggest low charge on battery, dead battery, or bad wiring connections).

 

[Harry in Ky]

That indicates a possible problem with your existing ground cable. By jumping the negative cable to the frame you bypass the ground cable and it starts.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Not bridging over at starter solenoid. Attaching portable battery jumper to hot post and frame. Will start, with key, everytime with jump starter attached. Thanks. Again, nothing at the key switch (without jumper attached), not even a click (which would suggest low charge on battery, dead battery, or bad wiring connections).

Which "hot post"? the battery or the starter? If you jump at the starter then either cable is suspect.

 

[Dman1981]

Maybe when you get it running see if it is charging just a thought

 

[Dmacleo]

I would look at grounds also, including the mount surface of the solenoid itself.

 

[jonathansfather]

did it ever start correctly after this? or did you have to start jumping at that point?

Yes. After I rebuilt the starter last fall, started up first time properly, with key, same battery as now.

That indicates a possible problem with your existing ground cable. By jumping the negative cable to the frame you bypass the ground cable and it starts.

It will start if I jump on the neg battery post as well. I've tried both ways. Jumper neg cable on battery neg post OR on frame. Starts either way.

 

[jonathansfather]

Which "hot post"? the battery or the starter? If you jump at the starter then either cable is suspect.

Hot post on battery.

 

[jonathansfather]

Hot post on battery.

 

[jonathansfather]

I would look at grounds also, including the mount surface of the solenoid itself.

Ok. Will do. So where the solenoid mounts to the starter could be grounded improperly? Not sure I understand, sir.

 

[jonathansfather]

Maybe when you get it running see if it is charging just a thought

No ammeter on the dash. Any other way I could check whether the battery is charging while the engine's running?

 

[Dmacleo]

Ok. Will do. So where the solenoid mounts to the starter could be grounded improperly? Not sure I understand, sir.

yeah its possible, its a magnet, has to get the - charge somehow. although its more likely its cabling (including corrosion inside not visible) thats the issue.

but before going too nuts I just realized there is one thing you did not mention.
did you put battery on a charger for a few days?
you mention starting by jumping but never said you actually charged the battery.

 

[RjCorazza]

Ok. Will do. So where the solenoid mounts to the starter could be grounded improperly? Not sure I understand, sir.

Just popping in...
The solenoid case is grounded to the starter case, and the starter mounting bolts generally ground the starter case itself.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Yes. After I rebuilt the starter last fall, started up first time properly, with key, same battery as now.

It will start if I jump on the neg battery post as well. I've tried both ways. Jumper neg cable on battery neg post OR on frame. Starts either way.

If that's the case, the cables don't make much difference. I think you need to revisit the battery. Do you have another one you can stick in and try it?

 

[jonathansfather]

yeah its possible, its a magnet, has to get the - charge somehow. although its more likely its cabling (including corrosion inside not visible) thats the issue.

but before going too nuts I just realized there is one thing you did not mention.
did you put battery on a charger for a few days?
you mention starting by jumping but never said you actually charged the battery.

I had not done that, but will put it on charge tonight. Thanks. The ground is the strap type, about 10" long. The positive cable is about 2' long and has the old type lead terminal. I keep brass terminals on hand to replace whenever an old lead terminal breaks. Reckon it could be my alternator?