1723e RPM issues

[Bcwoods]

Had the engine control relay go out in my tractor. Installed new one and now the tractor wont rev past 2000rpm. No issues with the cable. The throttle linkage has full range of movement. Not sure what would cause this.

 

[cdaigle430]

Sounds like fuel or air starving.

 

[Dmacleo]

Had the engine control relay go out in my tractor. Installed new one and now the tractor wont rev past 2000rpm. No issues with the cable. The throttle linkage has full range of movement. Not sure what would cause this.

you talking about the fuel control solenoid? don't know of anything else that could be called the engine control relay.
if so bet you got air in system.

 

[Bcwoods]

This is the part number to what I replaced. 6253541M91 It started off with my alternator going out. Replaced it. Then the accessory fuse kept blowing and I traced the short down to the engine control relay that I replaced. I’ve drained the fuel tank, changed fuel filter, blew out all fuel lines, bled air out of fuel system and still can only rev to 2000 rpm. I know there is not much to these engines but it’s got me puzzled.

 

[Dmacleo]

oh that, sorry missed that. iirc that only controls signal to the fuel solenoid depending on key position.
with the key on engine off is the pickup pump chattering as it should?

 

[Bcwoods]

Yea the pump chatters as it should

 

[Dmacleo]

as far as I know the solenoid powered by that relay is either open or shut, no in between so can't see that relay short messing with that. fact it comes up to 2K rpm leads me to think thats ok.
assume the tank/line work was done due to this new problem of only hitting 2k correct?
did you crack lines on pump and injectors to bleed ?
just for grins remove fuel cap see if works fine, prob won't matter though. maybe remove air filter also. this checks tank venting and for restricted airflow.

 

[Bcwoods]

as far as I know the solenoid powered by that relay is either open or shut, no in between so can't see that relay short messing with that. fact it comes up to 2K rpm leads me to think thats ok.
assume the tank/line work was done due to this new problem of only hitting 2k correct?
did you crack lines on pump and injectors to bleed ?
just for grins remove fuel cap see if works fine, prob won't matter though. maybe remove air filter also. this checks tank venting and for restricted airflow.

Yea I cracked top of I injectors to make sure no air. Not sure if the factory fuel pump isn’t putting out enough fuel to keep up due to an internal issue in the pump. It’s only rated to put out .01 gpm. Any restriction with that may be part of the issue. I’ll try a few things and see what happens.

 

[Bcwoods]

Still same result. Installed a new fuel pump that puts out .05 gpm. Double checked air bleed. Still tops out at 2k rpms. Ugh!

 

[thclimer]

Are you sure your tachometer is accurate?

 

[Bcwoods]

Are you sure your tachometer is accurate?

That’s what I was getting ready to add to this post. I purchased a digital tach. Throttled up to full power, engaged rear pto and rear pto reads around 680rpm. So at full throttle that’s probably accurate so now I assume the dash tach is messed up at higher rpm. It reads correct idle of 900. So I guess when the alternator fried it messed up the dash cluster as well.

 

[Dmacleo]

If I remember right (jese I was just messing with one 3 days ago you think I can remember????) rpm section of tach is mechanical, only hour meter electric.
did you try with air filter and fuel cap removed yet? costs nothing takes 5 minutes. rule out airflow and tank vent issues.

 

[Bcwoods]

If I remember right (jese I was just messing with one 3 days ago you think I can remember????) rpm section of tach is mechanical, only hour meter electric.
did you try with air filter and fuel cap removed yet? costs nothing takes 5 minutes. rule out airflow and tank vent issues.

I did the air filter and fuel cap check. The dash cluster is all electric. While running I can remove plug from behind dash cluster, tach and hour meter go off.

 

[Dmacleo]

maybe what I thought was mech cable was harness then.

 

[Dmacleo]

That’s what I was getting ready to add to this post. I purchased a digital tach. Throttled up to full power, engaged rear pto and rear pto reads around 680rpm. So at full throttle that’s probably accurate so now I assume the dash tach is messed up at higher rpm. It reads correct idle of 900. So I guess when the alternator fried it messed up the dash cluster as well.

gc2400 mechanical tach the 540 mark is just over 2500rpm, I rev limit at approx 2850 +/- rpm so 680rpm is prob dead on.

ug thats about 590$ for new one.