1540/boxblade woes...

[ratter]

Finally got to try out my boxblade with the new tractor and am getting very frustrated, very quickly. I'm trying to tear up and smooth out a small plot next to the barn that is very rutty/hilly.

The two biggest problems:

1. Even with the toplink as short as possible, I get VERY little forward tilt (10 degrees maybe?)to the box. Do I just need a shorter top link? I don't know what else I can do with my stock toplink beyond shortening it all the way like I have...

2. Going forward trying to rip things up with the scarifiers, the box just rides the contours of the bumps (probably at least partially due to problem #1, as well. Does the 3PT on the 1540 have a float mode? If it does, I can't "find" it, nor mention of it in the manual...

Any thoughts are appreciated, as always,
-Mike

 

[JerryG]

Except for Belarus (from Russia) all modern tractors have a three point that floats. It just does it, there is no lever or anything to look for. The hydraulics only lift and there is nothing to keep it from going on up.
If the box is just ridding over the ground, you need weight on it. I have a five foot box with 250 pounds on it and it cuts most areas. If the ground is really dry and hard, I usually wait until we have some rain.

 

[ratter]

Thanks Jerry. It's a six foot box at ~600 lbs. And I don't know for sure, but it "feels" light.

Any thoughts on the toplink? Should I be getting more tilt out of it than that? I just don't want to overlook the possibility that I'm setting something up wrong...

 

[wrenchturner]

I have a 5 foot box blade and I too felt it was light. I filled concrete block cavities with concrete and short chains to use as handles. Then I made a frame out of angle iron on top of the scrape to hold the blocks. This made a big difference. I only have one problem, the blocks bounce out sometimes. So, I need make something to hold the blocks secure; perhaps a nylon strap.
I think each block weighed about 80 pounds. Hope this helps.

 

[donais]

if the 1540 has the three or four holes where the top link attaches to the tractor try putting it on the lowest one. i think that might get you an in or so...or i could be totally wrong! jon

 

[ratter]

Thanks jon, I don't remember offhand which hole it's in, but I'll check. I might pick up a shorter toplink too...

 

[JCS_in_KY]

Ratter, I have the same problem when using a 6' Tennessee River box blade with my 1533. I think I need to try to find a shorter top link for my tractor and give that a try. It seems that the top link that came with my tractor is just a little too long for the box blade and my tiller.

John

 

[JerryG]

Thanks Jerry. It's a six foot box at ~600 lbs. And I don't know for sure, but it "feels" light.

Any thoughts on the toplink? Should I be getting more tilt out of it than that? I just don't want to overlook the possibility that I'm setting something up wrong...

Like was said you can use the bottom hole on the tractor end of the third arm. I think that you will find that it is just to dry and the box is to light. I know that a lot of the members talk about how much they tilt their boxes, but I don't tilt mine anywhere near as much as they seem to and mine cuts just fine unless it's to dry.

 

[JCS_in_KY]

Wouldn't using the bottom hole on the mount for the top link actually give you less forward tilt then it would when using the top hole? I might be wrong but it seems to me that using the bottom hole puts the top link closer to the tractor thus tilting the blade further back then it would when using the top hole? John

 

[ratter]

Went to TSC - the only shorter top links they had were significantly lighter duty, with smaller pinholes. So I didn't bother. I'll keep experimenting with the current setup. Top link is currently in the bottom hole, but I'll try the top as well. It very well might be a dryness issue too like Jerry said, so I might head down to a lower/wetter area and see if I fare better.

 

[JerryG]

Wouldn't using the bottom hole on the mount for the top link actually give you less forward tilt then it would when using the top hole? I might be wrong but it seems to me that using the bottom hole puts the top link closer to the tractor thus tilting the blade further back then it would when using the top hole? John

With a plow you would be right but a box is different. The box has to be tilted forward to make the rippers go down more or expose them more. If the arm is in the top, then the box would tilt backward and the rippers would be less exposed.

 

[ratter]

I've just been out working that area for a while. I've made progress. By ripping forward and then pushing backwards. Over and over and over again. I still think I'm being hampered by the tilt though. At maximum "tiltage" and with the rippers as low as they'll go, they only hit the dirt maybe an inch more than the blade. I seem to remember others here getting 3-4" or more...so I think that even with more weight, that wouldn't solve the scarifier penetration problem. I still wouldn't be able to rip up the turf without the back blade making deep contact too...

 

[JerryG]

This may seem like a dumb question, but are the rippers down as far as they will go on the box? Most BB have two different positions for the rippers with the most shallow position being an inch or two below the box. The deep position is usually four or five inches. Some BB have a pin that goes through the ripper and others have slots in the ripper and a pin that jams it against the beam.

 

[ratter]

This may seem like a dumb question, but are the rippers down as far as they will go on the box? Most BB have two different positions for the rippers with the most shallow position being an inch or two below the box. The deep position is usually four or five inches. Some BB have a pin that goes through the ripper and others have slots in the ripper and a pin that jams it against the beam.

No such thing as a dumb question when it comes to me and tractors! But yes, they're as far down as they will go. They're the slotted/notched type, with two positions. Getting longer ones might be an easier option than getting a different toplink.

First pic shows the max. tilt I can get and the rippers at their max depth.

Second pic is a "before" and the third is "after". So it did kinda sorta work, but not very efficiently at all. I probably spent two hours or more on this spot that's about 400 sq ft...

 

[JerryG]

Measure the top link at its shortest length and let us know the length.

 

[jeepcj7]

Saw your picture. Your box blade angle is fine. You need to add weight to the box blade.

 

[ratter]

Okey doke. I'll see what I can work out. I might also go get a cheap middlebuster to bust things up before using the rippers. This little area is all real thick matted weeds that I couldn't mow very well because of all humps, rocks, and holes...

 

[philbuilt]

Have you considered useing a tiller prior to dragging the box? Your tilt looks the same as mine and I don't have any problems. The ground does how ever seem to be very dry and grassy. The other option besides weight is to wet the ground or wait for rain as previously stated. Try a gravel driveway and I think you will find your angle might be to tilted.
Just my 5 cents.

 

[browns40]

Hi ratter,

That grass is awful hard for the blade on the back of the box to get under & stay under... once your under it, keeping an eye on staying under it (backing up slightly, then the blade digs a bit deeper as you go forward), or more & more passes will do it... The angle on the blade doesn't look bad...

Can the MF lower arms be screwed out any? I gain a bit more depth & angle on the JD by screwing them out flush with the end of the threaded rod...

Other thing is extra weight will help a lot... my boxblade is a whole different animal with extra weight put on it. My solution was the old free weights (attached).

A little lower arms, and a lot more weight will get you into that grass faster