$100 Hydraulic Top Link

/ $100 Hydraulic Top Link #21  
Brian, to say nothing of (1) your knowledge of particular tractor brand and model issues (2) your personal service before and after the sale, and (3) your willingness to share your expertise with folks who may not even have ordered from you. I'm a case in point. You helped me with the right flow restrictors and couplers even though I'd sourced my top and side links from two different vendors. I'm not surprised that your business has grown so much.

Thanks, I have no problem simply helping out someone. Unfortunately, (or for me fortunately) I simply do not have the time to do so as often as I use to. ;)
 
/ $100 Hydraulic Top Link #22  
Brian, you simply need to do away with everything else that takes time out of your life. Eating, sleeping etc. :)
 
/ $100 Hydraulic Top Link #23  
I first bought a hydraulic top link, from Brian, for a Kubota B2710 about 4+ years ago, to make a box blade work better. I’ve since bought two more TnT sets for LS XR4046HC and LS XR4155HC, and an angle cylinder for my LP 96” rear blade, from Brian and happy as can be with all of them.

Hope the OP will see the “value” in buying an engineered, proven, system over trying to design something that he may not really understand. No offense intended. It takes just a few mis-steps to jack your costs beyond what you can buy as a “complete solution”.

Sermon over.
 
/ $100 Hydraulic Top Link
  • Thread Starter
#24  
Thanks to everyone for the advice. The parts arrived and the install was straight forward. There is a restriction orifice built into the link so adding one is unnecessary. The range is great and movement is slow and steady. I attached the parts list below. $181.29 shipped.

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/ $100 Hydraulic Top Link #25  
I feel like a VICTIM of The old BAIT AND SWITCH, I want the "Advertised" One Hundred Dollar One! lol
 
/ $100 Hydraulic Top Link
  • Thread Starter
#26  
I feel like a VICTIM of The old BAIT AND SWITCH, I want the "Advertised" One Hundred Dollar One! lol

Lol. My apologies. The grand total was $181 but the hydraulic cylinder was only $99. The rest of the cost was for hoses and fittings.
 
/ $100 Hydraulic Top Link #27  
Yes Sir...same Grizzly cylinder and total of $179 so I beat you by a couple bucks. So far it works just fine and for a 10 minute install it's time well spent. I have my box scraper on the back now and it is really nice to sit in the warm cab and adjust angles of attack for the box. I've wanted one of these suckers for 20 years...can't believe I waited so long.
 
/ $100 Hydraulic Top Link #28  
If you have two remotes add a tilt cylinder. It's more valuable than the top cylinder when using a box blade.
 
/ $100 Hydraulic Top Link #29  
Roger that Ovr! I do have an unused lever and empty QD's and that's on my mind for the next addition. I do need to cut a couple ditches when the ground thaws. Forgot to mention but I also got new wiper blades...old ones were just smearing the snain.
 
/ $100 Hydraulic Top Link #30  
/ $100 Hydraulic Top Link #31  
Well, mine broke in the weld between the ram and the ball thingy where it attaches to the top of the box scraper. I don't think I was abusing it at the time since I was grading a sand road with very few <2" rocks. Top link is back on and the cylinder is laying on my welding table. I haven't tried welding it yet but the break is "grainy" metal (kinda like pot metal when it breaks) and doesn't look like quality steel to me. I only have .023 wire for my MIG which won't really allow me to put enough heat to get good penetration. I will grind the edges so I can weld from the inside out all the way around the cylinder ram.
 
/ $100 Hydraulic Top Link #32  
Did you buy the assembled one from agri-supply? or something else?

The "grainy" structure is probably because the ball ends are forged steel most likely.

Any pics of what you have and what the break looks like?
 
/ $100 Hydraulic Top Link #33  
You have nothing to lose. Weld it with it fully extended. Wrap a water soaled towel around the ram at the barrel to keep the seal cool.

Something caused the failure other than the light work you were doing. I see this often. "I wasn't doing anything when it broke" yeah,,,, but what about yesterday? :)
 
/ $100 Hydraulic Top Link #34  
I pushed snow some this winter but mostly used the front blower. No heavy stress on it that I'm aware of anyway. Yes, bought from Agri-Supply.

I can take pictures but may not be smart enough to post it...I'll try. I'll look again but I think it was the weld that failed. Like the dentist says....fillings usually come out eating a muffin not chewing ice.
 
/ $100 Hydraulic Top Link #36  
It's all welded up and I put a "spine" on top of the weld to add a little extra strength. We'll see how she works out.

My neighbor has a similar cylinder on his back blade but his is made in USA. He asked if I would buy an airplane made in China...point made.
 
/ $100 Hydraulic Top Link #37  
That ram didn't just let go, the pivot has come into contact with the bottom of the fixed yoke and bent it until it broke . Probably when the attachment was lowered . I would be checking the clearances that ram has in the full up and full down positions .
 
/ $100 Hydraulic Top Link #38  
TSC has new Cat I for 20 bucks and Cat II for 30.
 
/ $100 Hydraulic Top Link #39  
Eagle,

I sorta did that when I first put it on and it looked OK. Mostly I was checking hose clearance. When I put it back on the tractor I'll check it again. I will also re-check where the lever stop is placed to make sure it can't be raised too far.

I pushed over and dug out stumps on about 40 dead trees yesterday and the box with the stock top link worked just fine to pile up the broken branches laying on the ground. Used the loader bucket to pile up the trees and stumps to burn. I was actually pretty happy with the performance of the loader moving trees up to maybe 8". The hydrostatic transmission sure take away a lot when pushing and lifting at the same time.
 
/ $100 Hydraulic Top Link #40  
Eagle,

You're on to something. There was an indication the ram hit the bottom of the box scraper yoke which would have happened when the box was raised too high. There wasn't any indication on the ram it's self but it is hardened and the metal on the yoke look like it had a very faint rub mark under where the ram could have hit the yoke.

I get the cylinder back on the tractor I'll check to see if that can happen. I had the level limiter set to restrict the upward movement but I wonder if it might have slipped...I do pull on it pretty hard some times.

Thanks for the idea.
 

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