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It does.

It will, I found that for myself. No seat switch. There's a red lever that disables all the pilot controls, but it will still start even if that's enabled. I'll have a quick test but I bet it will start with a control lever pulled (will need to be careful). If they'd wanted to interlock with...

I haven't yet because the fault hasnt shown itself since i reverted to the old starter. I have test lead made up ready. I don't know if there are any safety switches though. It's an all-hydraulic excavator so no clutch or neutral.

Thanks. There's a really good auto electrical outfit in Aberdeen, but it would need a special journey, and another trip to pick it up. One option would be to get the old starter into them to see if they could find the intermittant fault because clearly im not able to find it. I'm going to send...

Thanks. On this type of starter the solenoid is integral in the main body with the actual motor piggy-backed on top and driving through reduction gears. The other way round from most pre-engaged starters where the solenoid is the bit piggy-backed on top. I've had the starter in bits a few...

I posted earlier about starter problems, but I thought I was all sorted fitting a European (WAI) starter rather than the Chinese most offer. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/d1105-starter-issues.463295/ However unbelievably that starter is now dying in the same way that the EBay one...

Not that easy to get pictures as its all quite crowded. The mouse hose connects o a spigot at the bottom left of the radiator .. The other connects to the engine block low between oil filter and alternator. The two hoses the route down under the radiator to the drain block (080)

That's my concern. As far as I can see they are there to allow radiator and block to be drained from a single point, but I cant tell whether they serve any purpose while the engine is running. That would be an argument in favour of linking the two points with a single hose, that keeps the water...

Hi, This is a KX41 1.5 ton excavator, probably mid'90s with D1105 engine. Mice have eaten some of the cooling hoses, which are seriously inaccessible. One is the hose part 060 which seems to be identified as "HOSE DRAIN" in the KH parts list. This hose connects to a block 080 and another...

Cheers. I suspect you're correct either loose at the time, or weakened from being loose in the past.

That's correct, Cat 1 lower pins are bigger at 22mm (or maybe strictly 7/8"). I think my bolts will be strong enough, but it's only the snowblower that will really test it. The advantage is they're off the shelf parts so can be replaced quickly and easily. Make them stronger and maybe something...

The welded repair held up for the January snow, but broke on my first session in March. It actually wasn't the welded repair itself that broke, the pin broke the other side of the bar. I guess a weakness in the reduction from 19 to 16mm. I decided to go with a 16mm bolt and sleeve rather...

Thanks everyone. I can see that this wasn't a good question to ask of a US based group. I actually thought Kerosene was an American term, which is why I used that instead of "heating oil" which is unambiguous over here.

In the UK we almost exclusively use 28 sec Kerosene BS2869 C2, a lighter oil than Diesel. A very few systems use what is known as Gas Oil, or 35 second oil or BS2869 A2, effectively Diesel but not necessarily with the road fuel additives. 28 or 35 seconds refers to viscosity.

Really? I've got loads of fuel a lot older than that. I'm pretty sure the boat hasn't been refueled for at least five years. The question about old Diesel regularly comes up on the sailing discussion boards. If this particular fuel is Kerosene as I suspect, it's been in that can for 11 years as...

Hi, one of my jerrycans that I haven't used for years had about 3 litres of fuel sitting in it. The thing is I'm not sure if it's Diesel, or it may be heating oil 28 sec Kerosene. So my question is, would that do any harm added to Diesel fuel say no more than 5% at a time. The engines in...

Cheers, I would think any noise before the crank position is probably irrelevant. Our machine make regular clicks as soon as it's On, from the fuel pump. Referring to earlier comment turning I've tested onto Heat only and there's no sound either when heat come on or off. So maybe trying the...

Here's mine for comparison, just opening and closing throttle. A bit "boomy" at idle because the engine cover is up. Rev counter doesn't work but hopefully the engine noise is enough to make the point.

Sorry I missed this. I would say in general it makes no noise at all when the key is turned to "start", I just see the instrument lights dim a little which shows it's drawing current. However sometimes there's a click when I release the key. I am not sure if that could be the heater plug...

That's correct, just a single wire and although it has a special latching connector, a standard 1/4" spade is a good fit for test purposes. For a quick test that could just be jumped to the 8mm stud where the main battery cable connects to the starter. I was thinking more about the teeth and...

What strikes me is how slow that engine revs up. Something like 40 seconds or so from when he let go of the throttle until the revs stopped rising? We have the same machine, KX41 with D1105BH engine. I'm sure it doesn't take more than a second or so, maybe even less to rev up when I adjust...

Thanks, keep them coming please. On these starters I don't think the solenoid is a replaceable part, they're sort of round the other way from most starters with the motor piggy backed onto the solenoid. See photo, the solenoid is the lower module with the terminal stud, the motor is mounted...

Thanks, that's interesting. The only pre-engaged starter I looked at in detail before this, actually energised the motor a little to avoid exactly that. On that starter the solenoid was in series with the motor so it got a little bit of power enough to gently turn the shaft to help in engage...

Hi, The engine is a D1105-BH fitted to a KX41 digger rather than to a tractor, in case that makes a difference. The starter intermittantly doesn't work, the solenoid draws power but doesn't move or doesn't energise the motor for some reason. First time it did this was after a lunch break, so...

Thanks again. Interesting about your bolts. The pins on ours are 19mm diameter, narrowing to 16mm for the threaded part, and with a collar on the 19mm side. One of ours broke, as a first fix I have welded it but was thinking of replacing with bolts as you have done. Or maybe with 16mm bolts...

That was the sort of thing I was thinking of. I could probably make something up from off the shelf parts, maybe from a marine supplies place.

Cheers. I discovered this when I had a three point mounted trailer hitch coupled up. When reversing a trailer you definitely don't want the hitch slopping from side to side, so I set the stabiliser real snug. Set like that the hitch wouldn't lower. Trying to work it out, and starting from the...

Thanks for the comments. On that last point the tractor end of the stabiliser is higher and further aft than the lift arm pivots.

Hi, I am not sure what the correct term is, I'm referring to the parts that you adjust to stop the lift bars and therefore the implement from swinging from side to side. I do not find these very effective, in fact they are a right pain in that for some implements there is no setting that is...

Cheers. The real test will be a cold start after the tractor's been sitting a couple of days. Fingers crossed. What it was doing before was a sort of groan as if it wasn't going to run, followed by turning sluggishly then a bit faster. Trying to convince myself I have fixed it I was thinking...

Hi, The tractor is a Siromer 304 which I think is virtually identical to the Jinma 254. More to the point, the engine is the Y385T. Has anyone carried out an overhaul of the starter motor for this or similar engines. The problem that I was having was really sluggish turn over, almost as if the...

Everyone's assuming agricultural land. Could it be playing fields, parkland, airport or something where the grass needs to be kept short?

Thanks everyone. I think I'll look into getting the wheel kit, or making something myself. The topper itself has chain from the A frame holding the top link, to the back of the deck. That allows the rear to rise up, and I tractor's top link so the chain has a bit of slack when the topper's on...

Hi, We have a 4 foot topper as they're called in the UK, I think that's a "rotary cutter" or "bush hog" in the US. This is the beast .. https://www.fleming-agri.com/product-catalogue/compact-grass-toppers/ We've been using it for a couple of years just running on the skids, but I have been...

It is on the Siromer tractors, which are pretty much just another brand for Jinma.

Not to worry. As a quick sanity check, measure the battery voltage before starting up, then measure it with the engine running. That will tell you whether it's charging or not. My own tractor for example did not have a charge warning light, the light on the dash is simply a power on light...

Exactly what I did. Water pump from Siromer in the UK would have been £250.00 + £12.50 postage and all plus 20% VAT. Not sure how the VAT would work now, it depends on how it's treated in France. Ali Express came to $88.00 for water pump, set of hoses and delivery. As the icing on the cake...

That third outlet wasn't threaded on the pump I received, just a plain pipe spigot. I blanked it off with a short bit of hose with a bolt plugging the end, obviously with hose clamps. A bit of a bodge. However there's a guy at work who's into rallying, and apparently in competition vehicles...

I looked back at my records, these were the items that I got from Ali Express https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32703639784.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.41a54c4duPzFBN https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32733815573.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.41a54c4duPzFBN That was two years ago. The only issue aside...

I bought a replacement pump from Ali Express. It's a bit ridiculous that shipment cost as much as the product itself but it came to $88 all in, for water pump, hoses and carriage. It would have cost £315 for the pump alone from the UK agent.

Thanks, it's interesting that you find the same. Typically we don't get down to those temperatures. Although we had -17.5 one night, the coldest that I operated the tractor in was -8 dropping to -12 while I was working. The engine starts OK in these temperatures, just needs maybe 15 or 20...

Hi, My subject isn't quite a full explanation, it's not that the lift is slow all the time, rather after starting the tractor the lift doesn't work at all for up to a few minutes in cold weather. For example in -8 C it would only lift the snowblower after the engine had been running for maybe...

Re-checking I was miles out with the pulley size. The crankshaft pulley is actually only around 130mm diameter, so even with 60mm on the alternator it's bit slower than ideal. However I think it'll have enough output for what I need. It still needs a blip of throttle to get the alternator to...

I find it hard to believe there are tractors that never need any parts, but maybe Chinese bits wear out quicker. My tractor has needed a water pump, glow plugs and now an alternator and it's not yet 20 years old. However both my Massey Fergusons needed water pumps, they both needed a starter...

Did a trial fit today, there are a few things to sort out but we're nearly there. Things I found I had to deal with included .. (1) The bracket that bolts onto the engine block isn't quite true, so the alternator doesn't sit completely parallel with the engine axis, putting the front of the...

Something like ACF50 spray would protect without being too sticky. Or lateral thinking, could you disconnect the eyes so that the cylinders could all be retracted?

Thanks. That's a good point about cooling air which I need to check out. However we don't have any front mounted implements so no special reason to think more dust comes from the front that from the back. Our digger (backhoe your side of the pond) has an open frame A127 which hasn't suffered...

When I first got our 254 it needed something like 30 seconds of glow plug and a lot of cranking. I found that about half the voltage was being lost in the wiring, the actual voltage at the glow plugs was only just over 6V. I installed a heavier lead and a relay and it's made all the...

Quick measure shows the existing alternator is 28mm (1 1/8") from the mounting to the centre line of the pulley. Delco 10SI is documented as being 1". Did you have to add a spacer to get the belt lined up, or was that sorted by the new pulley?

That's great thanks.

Hi, just in case I manage to source one, is that Delco 10SI a straight bolt-on replacement, other than sorting out the correct pulley size? It's the mechanical aspect of the A127 install that I'm not happy with rather than the electrical aspects. With the A127 I would have to add spacers to...

This reminds me that I still need to fix mine. I've been running total loss electrics at the moment, but would have liked lights in Winter. I need to have another look to see if I can get a one wire alternator in the UK at a reasonable price. If not I was almost there with how to mount a...

I must say I don't get that last bit. If it's greased it won't rust solid. And surely it's better left assembled so you don't get dirt stuck to the greasy inner section, or into the outer. Or do you clean all the grease off so there's nothing for it to get stuck to? Back on topic, I haven't...

Hi, I just had to cut the shaft to length for our topper, and while I was in a PTO mood I checked and cleaned the shaft for the snowblower as well. What struck we was how sticky the inner section is with grease on it. It would be really easy to pick up grit and if that gets into the outer tube...

I bought pallet forks, so the carry-all just needs to sit on them. Made from reclaimed ply in my case.

I ended up replacing both gauge and sender with standard off the shelf parts. I think it's better having industry standard bits where possible, and in actual fact this gauge and sender together cost less than just the sender from the UK importer. The only modifications needed were an adapter...

Hi, Our tractor seems to be charging only very slowly, for example a couple of minutes after engine start the battery voltage is still only 12.5 volts and very slowly creeping up. Before doing anything too drastic I'd like to understand how it's supposed to work. According to the diagram...

Hi, The oil pressure gauge isn't reading, absolutely no movement of the needle. As a quick check I confirmed power to the gauge, and continuity along the wire sensing wire to the sender. Second check I measured the resistance of the sender to ground. Engine off that reads 1400 or so ohms...

It's on the driving side of the chain, between gearbox and drive sprocket. If this picture works, part 42 is a 6mm bolt, and looks like a deliberate weak link. It's only fiddly because it's screened from access except from the underneath. By comparison the augur shaft connects to the driven...

Suitable Shear Bolts So I've just collected our new (used, actually) snow blower and I've been checking it out and greasing it etc. I want to lay on some spare shear bolts, but I'm not sure what grade would be suitable. I would prefer to just use commodity parts rather than have to get...

Hi, Over on the snow forum someone has pointed out that the creeper gears may be intended for planting or other light duty operations, and would be knackered if used for snowblowing. Is this likely to be the case with Jinma 254 transmission? Thanks, Tony S

Hi, Quick question that I haven't been able to answer from the various manuals and web sites I've checked. I'm referring to the dipsticks that these tractors have for transmission, front axle and hydraulic tank. Should these be checked with the dipstick fully screwed in, or just sitting on...

Hi, We have a Siromer 304 with Y385T engine. I understand it to be pretty much the same as a Jinma 254. Could anyone make a estimate of what the PTO horsepower would be? This doesn't seem to be documented, although it's the figure that implements usually need to be matched to. Thanks, Tony S

Hi, We have a Chinese compact tractor, branded Siromer 304 in the UK but as far as I can see the same as Jinma 254 sold elsewhere. So let's say 25HP. Conventional transmission with three gears, and H/L and creeper. Not continuously variable hydrostatic. What do people think about using a...

Hi, Just wondered what oil people use in the transmission, by which I mean the gearbox, transfer box, creeper and rear axle. The part that uses 14 or 15 litres of oil. My tractor's branded Siromer 304 which I think has a lot in common with Jinma 254 and surely must be the same as some other...

Hi, This is a Massey Ferguson 50B digger, around 1976. According to the any reference there should be two bleed screws on the CAV injection pump, one on the intake side that bleeds when you work the lift pump, then another one further downstream but still on the low pressure side, that bleeds...

Here's how I installed a high current feed for the glow plugs on my Siromer 304 (brand sold in the UK, the model is pretty much the same as a Jimna 254 of the same era). I decided to add this as a new post rather than add only my previous thread which started off about decompresser then got a...

Hi, We recent got a Siromer 304, similar I think to Jinma 254, it's a four wheel drive with Y385T three cylinder engine. It's slow to start in cold weather, I've already replaced a faulty glow plug and I'm going to look at a relay and heavier gauge wire as well. However I noticed some...