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Also, I've noticed that the herbicides have a number letter combination on them a lot of times. The imazapyr seems to be either 2SL or 4SL but maybe they are not the same? Glyphosate doesn't seem to do that that I've seen but others on the isle might. Is there a key or an easier way to know...

Would you skip the glyphosate entirely then? I was assuming in spring I would spray once with a mix of glyphosate and something like Imazapyr. If a pre-emergent is sufficient though, should I just skip the glyphosate entirely? I can use it elsewhere as needed and in lower mix rates ideally.

It looks pretty clear right now other than the wind blown branches. In a few weeks I'll have a lot of green in certain areas. I would rather not mess with it but I fear doing nothing will lead to a lot of time on my knees pulling by hand which is a non-starter!

I tried burning before but the only time it did anything was after the cottonwood was down in clumps. TBF, I was doing it for entertainment so worth the stick lighter i wasted on it. Green stuff takes too much to burn up but they claim damaging the leaves with heat is all thats required. Tell...

I tried salt one year and it didnt do anything. Might not have used enough though. No research done to determine rate. I only worry about the glyphosate because the dogs get walked daily and im sure what's on their feet ends up being licked at some point. It's probably not a huge issue but why...

I'm on a different scale with my property only being 5 acres. The driveway is tiny compared to what has been mentioned here. I don't have ruts to speak of so grading isn't really needed. That said, I have used a lawn thatcher around it trying to loosen up the gravel to make manually pulling...

I probably wouldn't worry about that type of driveway personally. If anything, just throw more gravel on for traction every few years. I didn't mention that the driveway is not huge but it's big for using a backpack. I typically spray the entire thing because the weeds I have are those little...

I've been using Roundup in a 4 gallon backpack sprayer for years and it has done ok at controlling the weeks but I never have truly weed free gravel. Last year I didn't spray as an experiment and it's not all that much different (either now or during the growing season) than it would have been...

I don't know of any issues with it, so I'll leave it alone until/unless that changes.

I do wonder if i should take the time to clean the fuel pump now that I'm working on it. Is that something that typically needs servicing unless it's showing certain signs?

It's one of the 3 screw pumps. I thought it was a fixed idle jet but when i removed the screw i realized it was adjustable. I cleaned all the ports and jets. Bowl looked clean but sprayed some carb cleaner in anyway. The gaskets looked ok so initially reinstalled to test. While it fires up...

After getting the starter sorted out, I ran the mower for around 30 minutes to confirm the charging system was keeping the battery topped off. When finished mowing the section, I throttled down a bit to get the deck washer and noticed that the engine was surging/hunting. For reference, this...

I replaced the solenoid. While at the shop i had them look at the starter. While they couldnt test, he said it looked new and to pull the cap, lube the bearing (brass ring in this case), blow any junk out of the windings if any, and reinstall. He also recommended a really good charge and maybe...

The local shop that can test starters said that plastic gear versions won't work in their load tester. They recommended replacing the starter solenoid and motor which both makes sense to do if it continues to act up and for a place that sells them to recommend. 😉 Since the solenoid got hot and...

When i had the starter on the bench it sounded good and cranked right up. The videos I saw showed that it should have a lot of torque and would try to run away so I clamped it down. I'm curious if it could still be weak despite seeming to run fine? I put it back on to test and all worked great...

I found a few comments about adjusting the valves on this engine and didn't realize it was that involved. Sounds like it isn't exactly adjustable so much as I can remove the valves and grind them to get the proper clearance. If they have the proper clearance, then the issue could be the...

On my last tractor the valve cover could be removed without having to replace the gasket since it was a rubber o-ring style. It looks like on this one if I pull the head, I'll need to source head gaskets since I imagine they will not survive.

I looked for the cover for the valves when I got this tractor but didn't see it. My old 1-cylinder Briggs was really easy to access (6 bolts after pulling off the hood). This one looks like I have to remove several shields just to get started on each side and then wasn't sure how far I'd have...

I don't know why the brake arms are still on but figure with the springs on they are out of the way (the springs hold them open versus brake engaged like normal). I don't think they add to the belt tension but didn't look that close. I can say that there is a lot of force required to move the...

I adjusted the valves on my old tractor and it helped a slow start but hadn't considered doing that here because I had assumed that was mostly a replacement battery that was done at the same time. I checked the plugs today and they both had a bit of carbon buildup but nothing I haven't seen on...

It's a 20HP opposed twin Briggs. The tractor started out with a 25HP V-twin Briggs. I don't know the story for the swap, just know how it sits today. The smaller motor seems inline with the other LT1000 of the era having a 42" deck and similar transaxle. Being a smaller engine I assume the...

It has a tensioner spring.

My project tractor sometimes is a bit hard to start. The battery is relatively new and when it's running, the motor runs strong. I don't think the issue is the starter because once it starts spinning it will go for a while if need be. Today I spun it for around 20 seconds hoping it would kick...

The old belt was too worn on the outer surface to have any printing left. I tried to measure it and came up with 94" but since it's shredded and down to 2 strands in that section, it would be hard to determine whether that's closer to ID or OD. The deck is nearly identical to the LT1000 that...

I tried 95.5 and it was too short for whatever reason (couldn't get the deck to mount). I tried a 96.5 and it mounts correctly and feels like it has good tension (the tensioner is neither min or max position). I'll try this one and see how it goes. Should have pulled the belt to measure once...

I was able to find the upper frame buried deep in the bone yard so i picked it up in case it would help. I see what yall mean about the flex when pushing on the frame fork ends. I was planning on reinforcement and shorter shelf which should help. I'll think it over a bit before modifying but...

I have a Craftsman 917.272201 lawn tractor which has had some modifications made to it by the previous owner (I assume). This tractor came with a 46" deck originally but when I got it, it has a 42" deck. I had pulled the deck to repair some damage and noticed that the belt that was on it was...

I was wondering how the weight back there would work out. If on a hill I could see that being a potential issue. I don't plan on using it in my field which has a few small hills but if I do, I'll make sure to pay attention. I also don't really think I need 15 gallons for most things but...

When i started having problems starting it after the first tank that was one thing i looked at. Worth checking again though.

Huh, ok. Ill give it a try. Doesnt hurt to give it a go. Figured if it was stable for several minutes it could be something else. But then, they are pretty simple so not sure what it could be. Thanks.

I've adjusted many carbs on line trimmers including this carb when it was on the last trimmer. I was actually surprised it worked great without touching the adjustments. I don't think this is something that can be adjusted by the high/low/idle screws though.

I had an issue with the carb purge system on my ~10yo line trimmer power unit (check valve must have been partially blocked). I swapped out for a similar Walbro WT carb from my spares box and the motor spun up great and ran without incident for 15 minutes of testing/clearing leaves. I noticed...

I've looked all over for the top portion of the bracket but doesn't seem like they are very robust since they aren't available. Possibly that they are attached to the bagger top so they get tossed when the plastic breaks. Who knows. I'll just weld something together and make due. It'll be...

@tomplum Are the bagger arms strong enough to hold the sprayer or did you have to reinforce them? If so, I can probably find the frame in the bone yard. I have the metal to weld something together, but if I can simply slip the existing part on, that seems a bit better.

Thats the ATV platform i mentioned. And i did consider that but wasnt sure if the pin hole would support a square hitch adapter. I found some lawn tractor hitch adapters on Amazon but they seemed super bulky/heavy and not easily removable from pictures. I usually mulch, but when i need to bag i...

I recently posted about wanting an attachment here. After discussion, that's not the right way to go for me. I decided to get a 15 gallon sparyer with a boom and wand. I could have gotten one with a set of wheels but I don't want to tow it and would prefer it to sit on the back of the tractor...

My 17.5hp Briggs was around 50psi with a blown head gasket and holds closer to 120psi after repair. That seemed low but without published specs from the mfg I can't say other than what I found searching forums. Yes, it was lower than I'd have expected too.

FWIW, I checked the compression and found that the two cylinders were 78 and 82 psi. The best I can find suggests that is within the normal range for opposed twin Briggs motors though the range I found was 60-100psi. So long as they are within 25% the concensus seems to be it's good to go.

I have been using Roundup Power Max which is 48.7% glyphosate in potassium salt form. I have been mixing at 2oz/gallon which is the high end listed for annual elimination in handheld/backpack sprayers. If I go forward with the tank sprayer, they list different amounts so I'd have to see what...

I don't know off the top of my head which variant of Roundup I have but I can say it's a 2.5 gallon concentrate that recommends 20z/gallon for maximum effectiveness. It sounds like the best recommendation is glyphosate and a pre-emergent mix to kill both what's growing and the seeds. I have a...

I checked the areas i raked a couple weeks back and some types of weeds were dead but others looked quite healthy. It looks like that approach worked great for grass and clump type roots. The viney type roots just snapped off at the base of the weed and when i turned my back they sent up healthy...

I dont expect to spray any more than i was (though its possible a 12v pump may do that). I expect that i was using 12 gallons on the driveway which basically wetted everything and on a warm day was mostly dry before i finished. So im anticipating i can load up to 15 gallons and do the driveway...

The tractor is a 2000 model year. I didn't think there was a motor made with points since the 1980's. This model has an ignition coil which is what i thought all modern engines used.

It has a key so i assume that would be considered an electronic ignition? If it was a pin hole in the diaphragm wouldn't that mean it wouldn't hold pressure on the vacuum side? Seems like i would have felt that when i tested.

Tha/ was my thought. I looked and doesn't look like anyone sold a carry all for the LT1000 series lawn tractors. I put some body weight on my bagger frame to see what 100lb would do and it seemed fine. I may see if there is a bagger frame at the bone yard and add a plywood platform to it...

I'd consider a 3pt sprayer but my 30hp tractor is a little big for the driveway really. The LT is perfect so I'd prefer that. I stopped at all of the local farm type stores today and found a Fimco ATV 15 gallon sprayer with both wand and rear spray for $120 on clearance. Normally it's $300...

I replaced the section of fuel hose between the filter and the fuel pump as well as the line between the case and the fuel pump. Neither seemed to be a problem, but they are old so why not. The fuel pump vacuum line was really short and was rubbing on a bracket as well as the output line from...

I tried burning when the cottonwood came down. That's really just for fun though. I don't think its particularly effective. I used crossbow one year on advice how well it kills weeds (not knowing what it was). It did a fine job on those but half of the growth is grass so had to spray again with...

That's what the guy at one of the tractor stores said today. He then followed by saying "yeah it looks pretty redneck, but who cares..." I don't think the WAF would be very high if I turned the reasonably well maintained gravel driveway into a grass/weeded over one.

I wasn't sure about the spec on the pumps but yeah if it can't provide enough pressure and flow to add a rear broadcast it wouldn't work that well for my needs. I liked the idea of a ~15 gallon tank mounted to the rear of the lawn tractor because I could easily maneuver around without having to...

I just saw that some of these units have 2 tanks so the water is clean and the concentrate is mixed on the fly. Is that something common or I have to look for? Not sure it matters that much but seems like a really nice way to not waste too much chemical!

I'll check other sources too. It looks like my local Lowes may have a similar 15 gallon unit for $75 so that may be a better option. Neither have a boom off the back, but I'm thinking a bit of hose, a couple sprinkler heads, and a splitter would get me pretty much the same thing once mounted...

Like this maybe...

Harbor Freight has a 15 gallon sprayer (no trailer) for $100. I wonder how hard it would be to make a mount to go on my lawn tractor's grass catcher mount. Hmmm....

Northern Star seems to have upped the price to $250 for the cheapest tow behind (on sale for $199 currently). Reviews are not all that impressive unfortunately. For a very cheap frame "trailer", plastic tank, 12v pump, and a bit of hose they sure seem like they got their markup for profit!

I just used Google Earth's measurement tool and I'd guess my driveway is between 0.3 and 0.5 acres. Like I said, not that big but more than I really want to do with a backpack and wand. I called the local tractor store and they suggested a smaller tow behind sprayer in the 20 gallon range. I...

Yes, exactly like those! Can a box blade be configured so it doesn't dig too deep? Like I said, I only want to go 1-2" deep so as to just get under the weeds roots. I don't want to get into the heavier stone.

I've considered tow behind before because walking back and forth to spray ~3 tanks takes forever. I'm a little concerned about wind getting the stuff on the lawn or plants right next to the driveway which has been the main reason I haven't gone any further with it. I've been here for almost 13...

I looked at a box blade when I got the tractor but the driveway was the only thing I would use it on. The scarifier teeth seem to be spread out enough that I'd have to go over it many times to get full coverage to remove the weeds at the roots. The thatcher does basically the same thing with...

So you drive around with the wand in hand and spray as you go? I should mention I also have drug my thatching attachment which loosens the gravel and gives a zen garden look, but does nothing for the weeds.

Good idea. I'm hoping to have time this weekend so I can try these ideas.

I have a gravel driveway that's somewhat loose other than in the main traveled path. In the past, I have used roundup to clear the weeds which does work. I prefer to avoid chemicals though, so have considered other options (salt, vinegar, fire, hand pulling, pulling a chain link drag, etc)...

I can't find a spec for the compression on this engine. I have a parts breakdown for the engine but it's kinda mediocre compared to others that I've seen. If you have a link I can use to search for a better one, I'd certainly appreciate! I looked in that and found one diagram that suggested...

I have a 2000 Craftsman LT1000 DLT lawn tractor that had the engine swapped from a V-twin to an opposed twin at some point. It seems to run ok for the most part with plenty of power. I ran it the other day to mow my grass which is mostly brown at this point so just cutting down the few high...

I picked up a bagger system for my 2001 DLT tractor that is nearly identical to the one I've used on my LT1000 for years. The only difference is in the attachment of the bracket to the back of the tractor. The old one (917.249791) has the bracket welded on with 4 eye hole style points to slide...

I replaced the bearing which was badly grinding and the new one is much better. After reinstallation I noticed the clutch sort of drags as it rotates so it's clearly not quite straight. Having it reassembled already, I decided to install and see whether it would keep the blades spinning or not...

Not that I couldn't replace the bearing, just that I'd read it's not worth it for reasons unspecified. I suspect it's not worth it for a shop because at $150/hr or whatever they charge now, it's not worth the cost of the part to tinker with. My free time is close to free (if I don't hate doing...

I tested the electrical and see 12ish volt from the switch and 11ohm on the clutch so looks like the clutch is bad. I pulled the clutch and it spinns but its gritty. I removed the 3 nuts and separated the different parts and it appears that the issue is a bad bearing on the pulley half. Since...

Yeah, I get what the bypass is for. But I was surprised that the mower would be able to move with the bypass engaged. It does allow the mower to be pushed with it enabled so it's doing all I need. I just thought it would prevent the engine from sending power to the wheels when bypassed...

I got a black light the other day as a last ditch effort and it popped the sticker out like magic! Turns out, the tractor has a swapped engine and a different deck. It's a 917.272201 25HP v-twin 46" hydrostatic transaxle DLT lawn tractor just like the ones at the shop. The motor was swapped...

I got a chance to talk to Hydro Gear customer support (now routed to Gardner Co) wo directed me to a local HG service shop. They said HG transaxles of that era are pretty good and most likely a linkage issue rather than internal based on ddescription. Also confirmed best oil to use is 20w50 full...

Never mind, with weight on wheels the trans doesnt want to spin so an impact driver zipped the nut right off even with some crud.

Is there any guidance on removal and reinstall of the cooling fan? I need to drill out the expansion tank retainer screw and am nervous i could damage the blades. Seems smarter to remove and reinstall rather than break, find replacement, and reinstall.

I bought what the service manual stated but if there's a better option 25 years later, i can easily return and get something different. The manual says 20W-50 Exxon Mobile conventional. Well, i actually don't recall if it says conventional but then synthetic wasn't what everyone was using in...

I strained the transaxle fluid and found no particulate. It was really REALLY thick but I'm not familiar with 20W50 so maybe that's expected. Since the expansion tank was empty and the main body was topped off, is it possible that there is a blockage in the rubber expansion tank hose? When I...

I tried tractordata.com too but came up empty. I had hoped between them and manialslub.com I'd be able to find it within a few minutes. Ha! Thing is, i dont believe they have all the models listed. I know the 2 at the local shop were built in 2000 yet I dont see 917.272201 at all. I filter by...

That's a nice tractor but much newer than what I have. It looks nearly identical to the 917.272201. The local shop/bone yard has 2 on their lot that I believe are being worked on. The primary difference appears to be that one has the 25HP V-twin Kohler and a 46" deck where mine is the 20HP...

The thing that makes me a bit apprehensive is that the fluid level seems ok but i had issues with lower speeds. Is it possible that thick oil viscosity could cause that?

I removed the fill plug which was no issue. The fluid was basically at the top of the plug and although it's warmer than usual it certainly isn't hot weather (maybe 70F in the shop) and I haven't run the tractor in over a week. I pumped the fluid out and a little less than half a gallon in my...

I've had my 1st AYP for 12 years and despite typical issues (head gasket, grenaded spindles) it keeps plugging along. This new one was intended as a project to replace that one bit if it doesn't work out I'll sell after fixed. My old one has a linkage but it looks near identical to the...

Does the axle need to turn when doing the purge operation? I would assume so or else things wouldn't be moved around. If so, then that means that I either need to have a way to sit on the tractor to drive it forward/back to purge or jack it up and level. I don't have a lift so if the axle...

Reading the fluid change procedure it should be pretty simple. Just change the drain by tipping to drain by pumping cause I don't want to flip the mower over.

Thanks for the manual. I found that one but wasn't sure that it was correct since it shows 310 not 314. I did see 166768 in there so was hoping it was right and you've confirmed that. I sprayed some penetrating oil on the plug last night even though it looked clean so that I would hopefully...

I cleaned up the top of the transaxle. After reading your comment and looking over the transaxle again, i believe the hex screw is the fill port and tye plastic plug is some kind of overfill relief (so dont touch it). I picked up some 1/4" ID fuel hose this afternoon too.

I pulled the body and the tank (no leak so doesnt look like cracking is an issue). There are 2 potential access points to the transaxle (red and blue circle). Blue is a rubber plug I believe. Red is a hex socket bolt. Assuming its blue is it just a recessed grove so hank it out and access? No...

Ok great. I detached the seat wire so it should be ok so long as it doesn't catch on the body when removing. Interesting. All of the manuals list the transaxle by the 314-0510 even though both show up on the sticker. I assumed one was the part number and the other some kind of a year nomenclature.

Is the body removal awkward enough to be a 2 person job? Doesn't look that bad other than the seat may flop around. Appreciate the guidance!

Ok, that sounds pretty easy. The fuel tank sits under the seat so I'm assuming that when I pull the fender/body panel off the tank will either be bolted down to the frame or just balanced there? Just hoping they didn't design it to be attached to the body from the bottom since it seems to be a...

I see the two 9/16" bolts on either side of the rear plate. I'm not seeing any near the foot pad but I'll look again. I jacked up the back end to determine if the shifting issue was some kind of mechanical or internal to trans. With it nose down, the trans shifted way worse so I'm pretty...

I heard back from Hydro Gear and they say the transaxle was manufactured in 2010. It's the same serial number on both the housing and the seat so I suspect they meant 2000 since it's unlikely someone who swapped the transaxle would have bothered replacing the under seat tag too. In any case...

I spent some time looking for the model number by using tractordata's list but I only found 3 close matches and none pan out. From looking at pictures, it appears that the dual headlight pod style similar to mine was basically made from 1998 thru 2001. The serial number on the Briggs motor...

It looks like the fluid is either coming from the bypass port or the brake disc mount port. I'll pull the brake assembly off to see if I can tell which for sure, but I don't think it matters since I'd rather not rebuild the transaxle. If I pull the back plate off the frame where the bagger...

I found the tag on the transaxle and it confirms it is a Hydro Gear 314-0510 166768 as expected. I looked it over and there is some leakage from the brakes. I don't know how much is coming out but it doesn't have a bunch of debris embedded in it, so I'm wondering if that happened when they...

Battery is in front/fuel tank is over transaxle. I looked in the service manual and it appears 20W50 motor oil is recommended.

Oh ok. Just said 80 because that's what i thought @Roadworthy was suggesting. I see many mentions of Hydro Gear oil at around 10w30 so will look into that. Another thread here suggested pumping out/replacing. Is that worth the effort since the manuals all say these never require service? Mine...

I don't see a model under the hood, just the consumables list with wrong deck size. It's made by AYP/Husqvarna like everything else of that era. I read that the fluid should be filled to top less 1-1/4" which sounds like an easy check (assuming i can reach it). Is it just 80 or 90 weight oil...

I fired it up this morning to confirm the tractor mechanics worked and found that the engine runs well and moves forward and backwards. But the hydrostat doesn't like slow forward and clunks into higher speed. I'm imagining this will take some trans work to make right.

I understand that part, but having a manual and knowing the correct part numbers in general is very useful. I imagine the spindles from 42" Craftsman decks are identical for the most part. And I have to pull the old part off anyway since it's now multiple pieces so placing my spare on the deck...

I picked up a mower today "for parts or repair" and it looks pretty fixable. They ran over a concrete chunk and blew one of the spindles out. I have an extra spindle from my work horse Craftsman tractor, buy I'm not sure if it's compatible. The issue is the model/serial number tag is...

I decided to boil some water and give it a go. The part doesn't melt at ~200°F so it's not the same PVC in schedule 40 pipes. It seemed to relax a little and mostly get back to round and after a little persuasion I got it pretty darn close. Threaded back on ok and will work until next time.

After using the rotary cutter the other day, I realized I left the PTO cover/guard on the deck when I headed out. I found that these aren't generic as I'd assumed so can and was planning on picking up a new one from the dealership next time I go past when they are open. However, when I was...

I found a plastic cap on the ground under my NH T1510 probably a year ago. I never figured out where it was supposed to go, so I eventually threw it out (last month if that). This evening I found an identical cap on the ground and looked closer and found that it was covering a hole on the side...

I store my tractor in an unheated shop that has a sink inside some repurposed kitchen cabinets. There is a small hot water tank next to the sink and the cold water supply line also feeds a hose bib right behind the sink on the outside. The shop has insulation in the wall, but I've had the bib...

I was talking to my uncle last night about my grandfather's tractor. I always thought it was something he kluged together but apparently that's just how old Gibsons were made. He mentioned that they ran a tow behind sickle mower driven by an oak shaft from the back wheel. I'm interested in...

I saw that the system is on sale this weekend ($148 instead of $189). I have 2 questions. 1) I have a NH T1510 and am not sure what 3pt type I have and thus what I need to order. 2) I only have 2 implements right now (field mower, 3pt draw bar. I believe this will make the mower much easier...

I installed new lever/brake arms on both sides since the pads have worn through. Upon my first test, I heard bad sounds and saw sparks again. It appears that when the deck is installed, the lever arm closes the gap. I thought perhaps a spacer was missing, so I pulled the deck and removed the...

That sounds about right. I checked the pulleys this evening ad they are solid. When I pick up the deck by the hooks, the arm closes the gap and comes in conact with the pulley. I'll check the weld to see what it looks like. This is with no load on the hooks.

Only one picture seems to have attached.

I pulled the deck off and cleaned all debris from the top and bottom. I didn't seen any issues with the mandrels and all pulleys appear solid and moving freely. I cleaned and lubed with WD40 to at least make sure everything could move freely (rollers, pivots, etc). I manipulated the idler to...

I have an old Craftsman lawn tractor that's seen a lot of hours. I've worked on the tractor a bit, but not a lot with the deck. I hit a rock today that caused an odd sound. I thought the blade might be bent slightly or there was a grass buildup on the deck. I continued for a couple minutes...

I was going to change my filters this evening when I ran into a somewhat expected snag. NH hires gorillas to install their filters! I assume the oil filter wasn't lubricated and is locked in place. I tried my Orielly filter strap wrench (connects to a 1/2" wrench) but only got a few degrees...

I bought my NH a few years ago and use it periodically around the property. It has 70 hours on it and has never been serviced outside of lubing all zecon fittings. I want to get on schedule which basically involves filters. Are there any recommendations for where to source them? It looks like...

I have a second hand Craftsman lawn tractor from the 90's (AFAIK). The tractor has always used a bit of oil but the last season it has started to use significantly more. When I started it yesterday, it ran ok (small amount of smoke) but after a few minutes (around the time I engaged the mower...