Driveway weed clearing

[diesel85]

I only need to do my gravel side driveway once a year... I use UltraKill herbicide.

This is my sprayer:

- Garden cart attached to my tractor.
- 55 gallon plastic trash can.
- 800 GPH bilge pump. (Hooked to my tractor battery with alligator clips and momentary button switch)
- 3/4" PVC pipe with very small holes drilled in a line. (Mine is 6' wide)
- 2x 3/4" end PVC end caps.
- 1x 3/4" tee.
- 1x 3/4" barb fitting to 3/4" slip on fitting.
- 1x 10' clear PVC hose.
- Bailers twine.

Assemble as you see fit. If you want the wand collapsible to save space -- don't glue it all together!

Method of operation. Attach garden cart and leads to bilge pump to tractor. Throw 55 gallon garbage can in garden cart. Drive tractor to pond, and use the bilge pump to fill the trash can in the garden cart. Drive up to gravel driveway. Add measured mix to the garbage can filled with pond water. Hook up the tube from bilge pump to tee for the 6' wide wand. Attach 6' wide wand to back of garden cart using bailers twine. Hop on tractor and use the switch to control the feed to the wand. Start spraying and have fun doing it for cheap.

Clean up: I just marked herbicide on trash can -- don't even bother cleaning it. Bring the bilge pump inside and wash it down. Break down the wand and put it all away. Good for another year.

 

[deezler]

^ that seems like a pretty good method.

My gravel driveway areas closer to the house have been turning quite green with grass and weeds. I tend to just mow them as needed, and the gravel is holding up well otherwise. It's a rustic look for sure.

In my main 1000' lane out to the road, I can use my land plane a couple times a year to scape and refresh all the rock. Plus varying where you drive each time you come and go from home tends to suppress vegetative growth well.

Really the only culprit for weed growth near my house and garage is too low of vehicular traffic.

I don't particularly want to spray chemicals on my ground anywhere. Maybe a once-every-other-year kind of deal would be ok. I did buy a propane flamethrower, but no way I'm going to spend hours with it, especially after hearing others accounts of re-growth here.

 

[diesel85]

^ that seems like a pretty good method.

My gravel driveway areas closer to the house have been turning quite green with grass and weeds. I tend to just mow them as needed, and the gravel is holding up well otherwise. It's a rustic look for sure.

In my main 1000' lane out to the road, I can use my land plane a couple times a year to scape and refresh all the rock. Plus varying where you drive each time you come and go from home tends to suppress vegetative growth well.

Really the only culprit for weed growth near my house and garage is too low of vehicular traffic.

I don't particularly want to spray chemicals on my ground anywhere. Maybe a once-every-other-year kind of deal would be ok. I did buy a propane flamethrower, but no way I'm going to spend hours with it, especially after hearing others accounts of re-growth here.

I used to use a propane tank on a hand truck with a wand... that got SOOO old. A week later the grasses would start growing. Not to mention it would usually take 2 to 3 tanks of propane just to do my entire driveway! At about $30 in propane, and results that would only last a week, no way.

Then I started looking at PTO sprayers and electric sprayers from Northern Tool and the prices were a bit much for a single year deal. So that is when I came up with my simple spraying hack.

Been doing it this way for over a decade. I even use the pump for small irrigation tasks. Those little bilge pumps are amazing for the price. I think I paid $20 for my 800 GPH pump from Wallyworld and it hasn't died yet. Has hours on it. And it handles trash well too as mine has a clip on filter.

 

[bkenobi]

I'd consider a 3pt sprayer but my 30hp tractor is a little big for the driveway really. The LT is perfect so I'd prefer that. I stopped at all of the local farm type stores today and found a Fimco ATV 15 gallon sprayer with both wand and rear spray for $120 on clearance. Normally it's $300 apparently, so seemed like worth a peek. If I can come up with a platform for the LT this does seem like it would work great.

 

[Topzide]

You could make a mount similar to a rear bagger to hold tank. You just have to consider the weight of sprayer when filled. May also need some front weight pending size of LT and how far back for sprayer. Good luck with project.

 

[bkenobi]

Tha/ was my thought. I looked and doesn't look like anyone sold a carry all for the LT1000 series lawn tractors. I put some body weight on my bagger frame to see what 100lb would do and it seemed fine. I may see if there is a bagger frame at the bone yard and add a plywood platform to it. Alternately, i could make something more robust if that won't hold.

15 gallons of water should weigh around 90lb and the box of all parts feels like 5lb.even with some bumps i dont think the platform needs to support more than 150lb which should not be difficult.

 

[nyone]

Glyphosate can be applied in many different strengths so really after you go bigger than a backpack sprayer your spraying very very large areas or just want it for convenience.

 

[bkenobi]

I dont expect to spray any more than i was (though its possible a 12v pump may do that). I expect that i was using 12 gallons on the driveway which basically wetted everything and on a warm day was mostly dry before i finished. So im anticipating i can load up to 15 gallons and do the driveway and the planters with 1 tank in a fraction of the time. Hopefully that will encourage me to stay on top of things a bit better.

 

[nyone]

I dont expect to spray any more than i was (though its possible a 12v pump may do that). I expect that i was using 12 gallons on the driveway which basically wetted everything and on a warm day was mostly dry before i finished. So im anticipating i can load up to 15 gallons and do the driveway and the planters with 1 tank in a fraction of the time. Hopefully that will encourage me to stay on top of things a bit better.

Have you tried mixing stronger and wetting less?

 

[bdhsfz6]

Once or twice a year, I use an 8' York rake on my 300' driveway. I set the scarifier teeth to a 1" depth and use the gauge wheels to keep the rake tines flush with the surface. That way, I don't move too much material around. It takes a couple of passes in both directions but eventually, the loose grass & roots come to the surface. It quickly dries in the sun and the wind does the rest.

 

[bkenobi]

I checked the areas i raked a couple weeks back and some types of weeds were dead but others looked quite healthy. It looks like that approach worked great for grass and clump type roots. The viney type roots just snapped off at the base of the weed and when i turned my back they sent up healthy replacements. So im going to have to stick with chemicals.

I mix my roundup with 8oz per 4 gallons which is the max recommended in the booklet for this type of use. I could nix stronger but not sure how much is needed to be effective. Also, when i spray i use a very quick sweep of the arm as im backing up so it doesn't feel like im spraying that much in each square foot.

 

[nyone]

I checked the areas i raked a couple weeks back and some types of weeds were dead but others looked quite healthy. It looks like that approach worked great for grass and clump type roots. The viney type roots just snapped off at the base of the weed and when i turned my back they sent up healthy replacements. So im going to have to stick with chemicals.

I mix my roundup with 8oz per 4 gallons which is the max recommended in the booklet for this type of use. I could nix stronger but not sure how much is needed to be effective. Also, when i spray i use a very quick sweep of the arm as im backing up so it doesn't feel like im spraying that much in each square foot.

I believe my jug says 3oz per gal.

 

[LD1]

I use Mojave 70 EG herbicide on my arena and driveway. It lasts a full year. I use the Mule and the 25-gallon tow behind sprayer spray bar for the arena and driveway and the wand to spot spray corners and such. Starting this year I will spray fence lines with it. I mix in glyphosate at 4% for a quick kill as the Mojave takes about a month to kill everything. Just don't get it on something you want to stay alive.

I use mojave as well. Best I have found (at an affordable price) that actually makes a difference. I have tried the RM43 stuff as well as pramitol 25e. I think the Mojave is the best bang for buck. Might have to spot spray a few areas later in the year, but for the most part it does keep control for a year. Instead of spraying every month with roundup

I recently switched to Roundup Ultra Max 3. quicker knock down.

Roundup "brand" has several catchy labels but ultimatly there is little difference among them. Just varying the concentration of glyphosate. So you use more or less of the concentrate to get your desired rate. But I havent seen "ultramax" anywhere here in the states. And google seems to indicate its an Australia thing.

But it does read just like Power-max.

Roundup has:
Roundup Pro with 50.2% glyphosate in Isopropylamine salt form
Roundup promax 48.7% Glyphosate in potassium salt form
Roundup powermax3 with 51.2% Glyphosate in potassium salt form
Roundup quickpro with 73.3% Glyphosate in ammonium salt form with a 2.9% Diquat kicker.

The "salt" form that the GLY has is subject to debate. Like potassium salt form has a smaller molecule....that some say it works better. But ultimately it comes down to how much glyphosate "acid" is in the mix. And the potassium salt form has more acid. Which is ultimately what the glyphosate is.

For example.....
RU Pro 50.2% has 5# per gallon active ingredient......and 3.7#/gallon of acid
Promax 48.7% has 5.5# active ingredient per gallon.....and 4.5#/gallon of acid
So even though the roundup pro seems more concentrated at 50.2%.....the Promax is actually the "hotter" chemical being potassium salt form.

And for comparison...
Powermax3 is 5.88#/gal active ingredient and 4.8#/gal of acid
Quickpro is a dry power so things are compared in pounds and not gallons.


They also have surfactants....(which make them work better) that most generics dont have.

The whole "idea" behind roundup was always about it being a slow kill. Because if you burn the vegetation too quickly the roots wont die and weeds come back. Slow kill is a good thing. But people want instant results.

If you want a quick burndown....use something with diquat. Roundup quickpro is what most landscaper type companies use because of fast results. And thats what customers want. But its $150/jug of the stuff. and 1.2oz/gal mix....and that jug will make about 90 gallons of mix.

If you really want to be frugal....you can buy a quart of diquat, and 2.5gal of generic glyphosate and make your own roundup "quickpro" for less than $100 vs the $150 quickpro. And that "less than $100" will make almost double the mix. So its a good 3x cheaper.

That is what I do. Generic roundup spiked with diquat on areas I dont want to use mojave because of runoff concerns....or around the electric fence encircling the garden, etc. But I already buy diquat normally.....in 37% form. (takes 2/3 of a teaspoon or 0.1oz per gallon) for mix. But I already have it on the shelf for treating pond weeds

At the end of the day, there is alot of playing with numbers and science and marketing involved. IF whatever you are using is JUST glyphosate with no other kickers......there isnt one better than the other if they are mixed at the SAME ACID rate. Any differences you may see with generic vs name brand, or promax vs pro vs powermax vs regular, etc etc.....those differences are either in mix rates no being the same or some having surfactant and others not.

 

[5030]

Nice dissertation, I will say that and here in Michigan you cannot purchase the Monsanto Ultra Max without a state applicators license so you won't find it for sale on the open market anyway. I'd list the ingredients on the MSDS label but frankly, don't have the time presently. Kind of like 24D(B) which I also use. Only sold to licensed applicators.

 

[bkenobi]

I don't know off the top of my head which variant of Roundup I have but I can say it's a 2.5 gallon concentrate that recommends 20z/gallon for maximum effectiveness. It sounds like the best recommendation is glyphosate and a pre-emergent mix to kill both what's growing and the seeds. I have a 15 gallon sprayer and just need to figure out a mount for the lawn tractor. I've seen a number of options for hitch mount on lawn tractors. I'm leaning towards this one (or similar):

Amazon.com

I'd have to mount a platform to it somehow. Options are either a couple L-channel and perhaps a bit of plywood or maybe a 2" reciever adapter and a platform of some kind.

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I'm really surprised that there isn't a carry all already available as a bolt-on option for common lawn tractors. I really want to have something that's easy to attach so I can remove and install the bagger as needed. Maybe that's why most people just use a trailer style sprayer.

 

[dodge man]

So I have two driveways, the one to the house which is paved and a second gravel on that goes to a parking area and a one car garage. I box bladed the gravel area a little over a month ago. Weeds did come back but a lot less than before, I’d say about 50% less.

When spraying roundup I use a back pack sprayer, I think 4 gallons. I’d say the gravel area I spray would be equivalent to a 10foot driveway 800 feet long. That 4 gallons is more than enough. Roundup has no pre emergence affect so spraying the entire thing is a waste of material, I just spray the weeds I see. Then I go back a few weeks later and spray the ones I miss.

 

[bkenobi]

I have been using Roundup Power Max which is 48.7% glyphosate in potassium salt form. I have been mixing at 2oz/gallon which is the high end listed for annual elimination in handheld/backpack sprayers. If I go forward with the tank sprayer, they list different amounts so I'd have to see what they suggest. I'm surprised that others are able to use a 4 gallon backpack unit to spray an entire 100-800 foot gravel driveway. I typically end up spraying every square inch because I have small weeds that become the standard ones by the end of the season. If I only sprayed the large clumps of grass or bigger weeds I'd be out again within a week because the others would be the same size. We also get several types that come in at different times of the year. I don't know the names, but grass is all year round, the popping type ones are usually in March/April, the ones that put off cotton type with the purple flowers are late July, then we get the vine type ground cover ones in August.

My ideal solution was to turn them with the top layer of gravel but from my test recently and other's comments, that really won't work. I usually spray in May/June because I want to have a dry period that will force the chemicals to be absorbed and it usually rains a few times a week until July. I then usually have to spray again in July/August to get the next type of weed. And it seems like even when I hit it 2x I still have stuff coming back before winter.

Yes, it's definitely true that I have less in the areas that we typically drive but I do see some smaller stuff there anyway. I don't know if I ignore that whether that will spread or not. I have never tried the pre-emergent type of chemicals so I could add those if it's something that sounds like it would help. I really would like to reduce the amount I'm spraying (both for my time as well as what's not great for the environment) but I haven't figured out what the best way to do that is. Right now I'm hoping I can come up with a way to mount the tank to the LT so I can at least spray quicker but who knows if that will help.

 

[Yander]

I guess I use about 1.5 oz. per gallon of the stuff you can buy at Rural King in the 2.5 gallon jug. I use a 35 gallon tank sprayer on a cart behind the Kubota G6200 GT. Works out good, kills it pretty well. The one thing that doesn't die from that mix is the mares tale. Have to use something else (Enlist) on them.



jug.

 

[cathy liebchen]

I have a gravel driveway that's somewhat loose other than in the main traveled path. In the past, I have used roundup to clear the weeds which does work. I prefer to avoid chemicals though, so have considered other options (salt, vinegar, fire, hand pulling, pulling a chain link drag, etc). All of these can work with limited success but I haven't found a solution that really works without a large down side. Chemicals take a long time since I have to spray with my 4 gallon backpack and i do tend to spill a bit on my back (really not ideal!) when putting it on.

This week I tried using my scuffle hoe (aka hula hoe, action hoe, etc) and it really did a good job. But it took forever since it's only 6" wide. I only want to go down 1-2" at most and in the compacted ares that's more difficult. I did a little searching and the closest to a tow behind version is the wheeled version many places sell. I'm sure that helps because the wheel would give some leverage rather than having to put so much force on the wooden handle. But, I guess I was hoping there might be a tool like a box blade with undercutting scarifier teeth (envisioning something like a T-shape used for turning soil). If these exist, I'm not sure what they'd be called so I haven't found anything yet.

Alternately, if there is a different tool that can be drug behind a lawn or compact tractor I'd love to hear about it! No reason to reinvent things if they exist and work for the job. Just to be clear, I don't have a box blade and my driveway is flat and doesn't get ruts so I really don't need one for regrading anything. I was just saying that because it seems like it's close to the need but not really there.

Sounds like the backpack sprayer needs seals kit- it’s a 5 minute repair

We use RM43 and it kills everything for a year

 

[DGZRT]

You can build a spray bar with parts from Tractor Supply. Total was about $55 . I mounted the bars to a 2” receiver hitch by welding a bolt to the ball and using a fender washer . I already had the tank with a pump . Just hooked up the hose and spray . It covers about a 60” wide path .